Uploaded on Jan 23, 2012
the lever does not return to the original posiition. something is getting stuck and i can't figure out what. this shows the push rod being taken out.

showmethedammovie 8 months ago
yeah take off the clutch cover. and the clutch basket has the clutch rod coming right? out of it. mine was bent. don't know how it happend. but it was weird. changed it and was all 'G' bikebandit part 46102. mine is a 08 zx10r.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/17/2013 @ 6:32 PM *

Grn , where did you get that from? I should have changed out that pushrod and the lever while she was opened up but hindsight is always 20-20 right? I've got the new lever on order, will put it in and see if anything changes. At some point you just have to start changing out the parts.

Plate pusher looks good, if it's bent it's not obvious.

Roll it like a sea-saw. I doubt the thicker end is bent. It does not look bent at the neck either. So cock it and spin it around on both touch points at both ends. I see the shinny part that obviously spins on the arm contact, but stops once you pull on it and the needle bearing keeps the pressure plate spinning with the baskets.

I don't know? This looks like a job for Slipperman. I say, I say lay it back on mother teapot's camp. Outback in drawing boardsville.

Contact Mother Teapot even though it's well out of warranty? So you agree this is a design or assembly problem straight from the Mother Ship? I.E. ...you think it's in the slipper?

I don't know, I don't think that pushrod is bent, symptoms don't fit what I'm seeing. I really don't think replacing the release lever is going to fix anything either. When I finally find it, it's going to be something so simple, almost always is.

Rode last night, clutch is now awesome, pull is right on the money, feel at the lever is great, smooth release and grabs hard, once warmed up, the airgap is stable able. Pulled the lever airgap hot, ziptyed it and this morning no cold pop!

Hubster whattheheckizitanyway? You are the guru, mastertech walker, the Yoda of motorcycle repair.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yXXP58qPoIQ

Notice this guys comments are almost identical to mine, sharp edges on the lever, high wear where it contacts the pushrod and deep needle bearing grooves in the lever shaft, same stuff I have.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/18/2013 @ 11:57 AM *

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6570

Different symptoms but same prognosis as the guy in the video, pushrod/lever interface problem, replace both the lever and the pushrod.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/18/2013 @ 8:14 PM *

Google Kawasaki clutch problems and a lot of threads pop up on this release lever/pushrod setup. Look at the sharp edges on this humdinger off a ZX-12R.

Too bad you couldn't get a stronger spring return on the arm. That looks like the catch to me? It hangs there in the static due to the cable. Then, you see how far back it could go. This is so the pin can grow out, this way it looks like it binds on the arm's U cutout, and when you pull the lever, that arm is going to be pushed at/upon/tension to that rod. So, pulling the cable, the rod moves out of [and/or] off of that jammed up push its in, you come alone with the notch relieved and now you have that 6mm gap all over the place.

If you adjusted at the arm send home [spring wise] you'd have the proper gap and all that bind being away from the jam up. See that in a way for a guess at it?

Man, this guy sounds like me almost word for word Hub:

Communicating with the Service folks over the next couple of days, found no smoking gun and the clutch package (removed for inspection) was reported to be in fine shape with minimal/no wear or broken bits. The technician was waiting for a new Clutch Cover Gasket (IPC-11061, Grid C-10) to reassemble the bike and continue troubleshooting.

Saturday 01/09 I made a visit to the shop and was shown the components. After explaining the trouble, symptoms, and work I had done to the technician, we looked at the clutch release lever/shaft assembly (IPC-13102, Grid B-12) under a magnifier and saw sharp edged burrs on the shaft’s notched area where it contacts the clutch’s internal push rod (IPC-13116, Grid B-12) stem that moves the clutch plates back and forth to disengage/engage the clutch.

Right down to the P/N I ordered from Mother Teapot:

Order Receipt
Home » Order Receipt
Secure Checkout:1. Billing & Shipping Info2. Review3. Receipt
Print

ProCaliber.com
1020 Industrial Way
Longview, WA 98632
United States
http://www.procaliber.com/

Date Shipping Method Order Number
6/15/2013 FedEx - Ground 3241852

Items In Your Order Quantity
RELEASE-COMP-CLUTCH
13102-0041
RELEASE-COMP-CLUTCH 1 at
$31.10
$31.10
Print

Sub Total:
$31.10
Shipping: $9.99
Tax: $.00
Total:
$41.09

He's talking about the razor sharp notch in the crotch on that lever. If that touches the pushrod like his was doing, digging in to the shaft so to say, who can tell what happens next. It's a good place to start but should Zi take a Dremel tool to that notch on the new part and field dress it?

It is likely that the sharp edges of the lever/shaft assembly contact to the push rod (at Area A on the lever/shaft assembly as shown) was causing the clutch to stick in the disengaged position.

Both the clutch release lever/shaft assembly and the clutch push rod were put on order to be replaced.

Joel
Champion Rider

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Join Date: Apr 2011
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So I took mine out there other day and Kruz has been bang on. Definite improvement, I had a bit of slack and it popped. Just tightened it up a bit more and hadn't done it at all. I set it at about .5 mm of play hot and it goes to about 2.5mm when cold.

Hub, just tightening up on the freeplay took the pop out on this guys 10R. Didn't work on mine, possibly too much damage done. I think this is the right track though, pushrod and lever=replace and keep lever tight...problem solved?

No. Move perch gap to its idio. For example, I could put together the same bike out of the crate, ride it around the block and it had its own personality, its own snowflake feel to it. I'm chasing a heat exchange gap for gap. Robust riding is a certain 'put me here' gap.

If say the arm and throwout pin and/or say the arm looks more worn, it's replaced and all is well. Then, it is not the idio, it was the arm galling hanging up the bulletproofing.

"Move perch gap to its idio"??? Hub, you'll have to translate that into English for me...sorry!

New shaft is installed, going to go ride it here in a few minutes. Any bets on this solving anything?

I'll have to say no, I have old one laying here and still see no smoking gun but might as well try it out.

Idio = idiosyncrasy or the synonym: peculiarity, quirk. In other words, it will want to have a certain gap at the perch so it does not, goes past, or stays away from the snap you are experiencing.

Well I rode it, snowflake feel, now different feel from the old lever but all bets are off whether the pop is gone, it's still too hot to tell yet, will take at least four hours too cool down where I can check it for the pop.

Get this, pulled up in the drive and shut it down in first. It's a bit of an incline, let it roll backward against that gear and all freeplay was gone at the perch. Put it in neutral, freeplay restored, what the heck?

Another thing I noticed, cold the lever moves like it's liquid buttah, hot I can feel more resistance in that lever likes it binding up a bit. I'm talking in the freeplay down at the lever on the clutch cover. Noticeable change from hot to cold.

Been two hours since shutdown and my engine is barely warm, clutch cover though is still almost too hot to place my hand on it. What is going on, why so much heat in this clutch?

It feels like the freeplay is not there so far, not coming back to equilibrium cold play. I don't think the lever has changed anything.

Will know for sure in a few more hours, not holding my breath.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/22/2013 @ 6:23 PM *

It looks like no matter the design, you are going to get that pop? Scroll up to the old design. See how both still have that same U catch on the arm to the O at the pull pin? I mean, how more simple a design is that and why are a few only doing it?

Are we back to setting the cable with excessive perch gap? Hot it feels like normal gap? And you have a possibility that adding that spring on the arm might stop it?

Hot maybe 2mm, it's starting to cool down now but freeplay is not returning to cold 6~7 mm so I'm sure it's going to pop. Looks like the lever was a waste of money but had to try.

"Looks like the lever was a waste of money but had to try."

Bullet is the proof but NOLTT

Yep, not the lever, no pop cause I got impatient, pulled in the clutch still warm and she opened up smoothly but instantly to the 6~7 mm cold preset.

Something is allowing the thermal growth to close that airgap but won't allow it to travel back along that same path to the preset as she cools.

I give up, just gonna ride it this way.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/22/2013 @ 8:45 PM *

Just came in from giving the 10R a nice flogging, clutch seems to be working fine, I'll go to the zip-tye preset mode after each ride, no pop, problem solved. HubMeister, I think I'll name this bike Snowflake.