OK, I'm thinking this through and walking the logic here on this needle locker. Couple of problems I can't quite get past on the theory yet. Why does zip-tyeing the clutch lever, cracking that perch airgap cause no binding of that needle? I have to make the theory match the facts here and still I have questions. In cool down mode, straight linear contraction of that needle cage, why does it bind (lack of clearance between needles and shaft) if cold there is plenty of clearance? Is the needle imprint in that new lever shaft the cause of that bind or a symptom of the bind? Chicken or the egg abstract?

I just want to avoid spending time and big bucks on a new cover, fresh oil, gasket etc. and surprise....pop!

kruz clutch fix

Let's extract the old bearings first.

Mr. Caruso: when the bearings come out would you please send them and the OEM shaft to me for micro-hardness and metallographic examination? I will email you a technical report with my findings.

the guy that lost 600 billion dollars is in charge again

I hook a water hose to the oil passage to flush and look for clogs .. you'll be amazed at whats been left in or got into your oil passages that's blocking ports ...

Lettuce not forget about 2BAD 1Up's U, 1bad. You forgot old style that was addressed with early tri/bsa/might as well add inline-4 cranks with the same centrifugal fling. You had to drill the punch marks in the crank plugs so as to remove the plug to bottle brush as you 'decoke' the heads. PITA it was.

So these days, I take straight vinegar and will dump that crank in it so I soften that shit inside the walls. Spray carb cleaner in it like a lot; bottle brush; wash with the hose and/or high speed sprayer and etch the goo away. That's one dip: if it's not clean, repeat wash.

How clean is my crank? Only my vinny gear knows for sure asshithat'sparkling clean.

old style that was addressed with early tri/bsa/

anybody that own that british junk deserved what they got...

Friend and I went to a kawi dealer chasing parts for his bike today. I step over to the 10r and wowee that's a sweet color combo. I feel the lever; pull the rod; found the rod solidly hooked to the table head; and zip for movement at the cage; smooth all the way. So can you move the shaft N-S-E-West kind of X? = Zero movement. If you wiggle a hair?

OK, I'm thinking this through and walking the logic here on this needle locker. Couple of problems I can't quite get past on the theory yet.

Apply Theory:

1. Find paper drinking cup.
2. Find a small aspirin bottle [you'll need later]
3. Find a magic marker.

A. Write 0 + 360 at the seam of the cup, the plus being the line thru the center of the cup.
B. Write 90 at that degree at the cup.
C. Write 0 at the top of the aspirin bottle so both 0's of the cup and cap face you.

I. Drag around in a circl both cup and cap so they touch as they roll on each other.
II. Stop at the 90 degree point or say, find the arch the rod makes, and if it's less than 90, stop there.
III. Theory says this is going to WEAR LESS THAN MR. 360 SAID IT WOULD TURN. No way hose say is this theory good enough you hear some lame 360 goes the spin of the needles?

Why does zip-tyeing the clutch lever, cracking that perch airgap cause no binding of that needle? I have to make the theory match the facts here and still I have questions.

Show me the rod in the cage move, I'll show you junk against new.

In cool down mode, straight linear contraction of that needle cage, why does it bind (lack of clearance between needles and shaft) if cold there is plenty of clearance? Is the needle imprint in that new lever shaft the cause of that bind or a symptom of the bind? Chicken or the egg abstract?

Chicken or the egg theory? You got it.

No shit, this will work.

The egg: Blow your cheeks up. That is the egg. Place your hands against the blown cheeks. That's your distance in the cage. Tight against the cage and rolls like an egg.

The chicken: Let the air out of your cheeks. Do no move the hands where they lay (pun). See how your gap in the cage has your flat cheeks rolling up to one side of the cage? The air moved down to your jowls and sorta look like a "chicken lick'inn is lick'inn chit can!" < Trivia line... From what movie?

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/29/2013 @ 6:52 PM *

"With this kit the zx10 convertable clutch system can be used in slider mode and use the clutch lever at the same time. No longer will you be 'prone to puller shaft breakage and problems associated with
the clutch cover mounted mechanism' from the factory".

anybody that own that british junk deserved what they got...

Ain't nothing to do with brand. It's what it is. A bottle brush is like hello? You seen my oil and carbon blowdown?

1bad, you're still making me laugh. I sold that old brit pile for 9k is how I got me first 14. Thank you very much is I guess I deserved it?

The point above that Bad mentioned...the Hydraulic clutch...notice what they say about the factory mechanism(s).Telling in that they say the factory stuff is problematic...read the website about this clutch deal...interesting.Remeber...that one guy on Youtube said his pushrod shaft was bent....and the 'pop' was clearly audible and visible when he removed the cable and turned the shaft.

So Kruz, this is bearing and U check:

X = I move my shaft up and down = Zero
Y = I move my shaft side to side = Zero
Z = Moves at all = Rebuild

Yep Grn, read that on the hydraulic clutch, I been saying since day one that is a bad actuator design from
the Teapot and they just confirmed it.

Thanks 1bad, you new "Master Tech"!

Hag, I'll let you know as soon as I go in to operate. I want to come up with some type of simple test to confirm our suspicions. Did you see the eBay ZX-10R cover/shaft? Looks jacked up like mine. Why do you sell your clutch cover unless it is broke? He replaced his with a new one and trying to get his money back.

RE: Calling Hubster!
06/29/13 6:55 PM
"With this kit the zx10 convertable clutch system can be used in slider mode and use the clutch lever at the same time. No longer will you be 'prone to puller shaft breakage and problems associated with
the clutch cover mounted mechanism' from the factory".

1bad is right on this, you gotta come up with your own fix, KHI cut corners on this one.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 6/29/2013 @ 8:22 PM *

Hub, you been demoted to master floor sweeper, new sheriff in town is 1bad and his side kick Deputy Grn.

J/K Hub , we still love ya!

1bad, you're still making me laugh. I sold that old brit pile for 9k is how I got me first 14. Thank you very much is I guess I deserved it?

them Dumbass'es NOWADAYS buy them old AMF Harley's too for big money.. don't mean they worth a shit cause you paid or got big money for them ..

Did that guy know what in hell he was doing? Or did he wear clown shoes?

We've already established you (David Caruso of CSI: Miami fame) have the prerequisites concerning scientific method and scooter maintenance/tech. Referencing an unknown and unproven individual with the same complaint is unwarranted and to be avoided.

Instead, we shall concentrate on the facts... of YOUR scooter... in a supremely methodical fashion.

In this way, the unknowns will be converted into measurable quantities and the most efficient course of action will be derived.

" Referencing an unknown and unproven individual with the same complaint is unwarranted and to be avoided"...perhaps...but did you read the comments after he posted?What some of the other guys there were saying?About THEIR clutches and such(zx10R's with slippers).If you continuously avoid info...whether 'unproven in an individual"...or an 'unknown' person...You just might miss your answer...or maybe not...but it certainly doesn't hurt to be open to what's going on...whether by us or someone else.JMO.Remember..it's not just ONE 'unknown' or 'unproven' party here...it's a bunch of guys with this same issue.And I don't mean on this forum.

Kruz is getting the info he needs to make a good judgement...yeah...he can do what he wants to apply what he suspects is wrong...when it's all said and done...does he keep a malfunctioning part(s) because someone else...an 'unknown' ...hasn't rewritten the service manual?When his fix might be right here all the time?He wants to ride...not reengineer his bike when it won't help anything.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/29/2013 @ 9:12 PM *

OK.

I thought, based on your previous posts, that you were an outspoken proponent of the KHI engineers. Now you advocate diverging from the KHI derived ZX-10 clutch engagement design?

My method strives to determine which parts of the factory design failed. I do this because I believe KHI, through years of race inspired research, have derived the simplest and most effective mechanisms essential for their motorcycles and I tend to foster that philosophy.

But that's me.

* Last updated by: hagrid on 6/29/2013 @ 9:32 PM *

You know what I mean...I'm not saying he can't or shouldn't figure it out himself...it's his life...anyone 'aspiring'(or not)to become better...or more insightful or whatever has to listen at some point to input...They can be sincere...and sincerely wrong.Kruz is a smart guy...certainly nothing against Kruz if he reaches out to others.Maybe I misinterpreted what you were saying...IDK....sorry if I did.

And I shouldn't be speaking on behalf or Kruz either....when I have NO idea how he feels about figuring this out or anything else.My bad.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/29/2013 @ 9:28 PM *

them Dumbass'es NOWADAYS buy them old AMF Harley's too for big money.. don't mean they worth a shit cause you paid or got big money for them ..

LOL... Got the big bucks for this too... Yesir, you need to be in it to cashis out.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/wazfst1tyme/Soldshovel_zps5c47f45b.jpg

I am a proponent of the factory designs and such...but this issue has been affecting those 10R's for...ever.That year anyway.The new ones may be totally resolved.IDK...but if it continues unresolved(for his model yesr)...it only would make sense(to me anyway)to find out more about this Hydraulic setup...and maybe install that...rather than have an ongoing unresolveable issue...having to change out needle bearings and such at periodic(for his riding) intervals...that could get old real quick.This isn't something 'new'...and yet NO ONE has figured this thing out?That's hard to believe...but maybe those guys who make that Hydraulic deal...maybe they HAVE figured it out.IDK.IF it were me...I would be looking into that sites products.It's pretty clear...all those parts guys are showing and talking about have the same wear marks...all that.Virtually the same symptoms.Grinding and such hasn't solved it.It's something in that design that isn't important enough to Kawasaki to issue a fix for it...they want to sell NEW 10R's....that's my take.

Hey! That's the Shovelicious!

I agree, hag. I watched that 6'er shootout. Saw the ape's clutch setup is the same. Pissants want to add more weight to their bike with a wet clutch lever, all yours. They came back from that 10r and said it was linear, electronics did an excellent job, rode better than the rr (cough) and oh buy the way, this was an 'electronics shoootout?' Tilt the scale to the rr for the auto plush my fork dive button?

Buy ASS RaGOzine!

Menu please. Oh look at that dashis bored.