just got back from the shop 25$ the caliper is back on, just don't know if or how it disconnected, will keep an eye on it
very strange indeed

does anyone have any idea what would make this happen? i plan on getting the bike looked at as to WTF made this happen
very strange indeed

I read all the comments after the above. Damn, i have to wonder the same thing? It's harder than hell to get the brake caliper mount in there at all. It barely fits so it either goes in correctly or not at all.

I would check to see that the slot on the bracket and the spline inside the swingarm are both in good cpndition. Almosr seems like one or both of those would have to be stripped in order for the mount to let go. Or, it was installed totally fucked up.= and just hanging there w/o the spline /slot engaged.

You can change your name to LUCKYchucky!! Glad yo are ok and the brake seems to be undamaged. I would keep a close eye on it.

How the hell could this have been installed wrong and not have done this immediately?

Well...it didn't 'just do this' by itself.Whoever reinstalled that at one point didn't get it connected right.It COULDN'T do that if it was correctly installed.No way.The ONLY way that could happen 'on it's own'...would be the swingarm 'block' sheared off.IDK IF that could happen.If the axle nut was snugged up good...it could temporarily 'hold' the caliper in place..until it finally let go and turned with a brake application...theoretically.Maybe.IDK.

Something else that looks odd...that's a 'stock' setup on there?Look at the axle adjuster bolt...and the place where the axle's lined up...the hash mark.Doesn't that look like it's way too far forward for a stock configuration?Mine was never that far forward.

Can you post a pic of what it looks like NOW?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/4/2012 @ 12:11 PM *

will post one tommorow i am at work right now

If you or a previous owner had it worked on by a shop, there's a good chance they didn't put it together properly. My nephew had a tire put on his Triumph Thunderbird and the pimply-faced little moron who they let put the wheel back on turned the rectangular axle blocks 90 degrees which caused the chain to be so loose, it almost came off the sprocket. He brought it to me to have the wheels aligned and was wondering why his chain was suddenly so loose.

Something else that looks odd...that's a 'stock' setup on there?Look at the axle adjuster bolt...and the place where the axle's lined up...the hash mark.Doesn't that look like it's way too far forward for a stock configuration?Mine was never that far forward.

Looks like the axle block mark is on about the second swingarm mark and perhaps a bit farther back. That is about normal, I believe and it would indicate plenty of stretch to go before it reaches duty life.

You’re lucky very lucky but that rear tire isn’t even scrubbed in yet so the last person to mess with the back tire is at fault because there is no way that caliper is budging if reinstalled correctly wholly shit WOW!!!!

I know Chuck said he got it reinstalled...but just for 'future' reference...........

Rook...any of you guys...look at the pic of the caliper and the axle hash mark line up.I didn't see it at first...but....see that cotter pin?Tell me it doesn't look like that axle is NOT seated on that other side(slightly turned)...check it out...that cotter pin/hole is NOT running true vertical.Which means...that other side is NOT in the adjuster block 'slot'.The flange must be riding on the block itself...not flush in that block...see it?It's not all the way pushed across.It can't be,angled like that.Look at my axle nut(just for reference...any rear wheel shot will do)...the cotter pin...perfectly perpendicular to the horizontal plane.See that guys?Chuck's wasn't.Too bad you didn't have a pic of the other side there Chuck....Man...IDK HOW someone would fail to get that axle into that other side all the way...but.....you're lucky is right.

Just noticed something else as well...look at the adjuster block...it's SUPPOSED to have a hash mark on the upper part where it lines up with the swingarm hash mark....WTF?I'm not seein one...anyone else not seein this thing?Without a mark on there...HOW was someone lining up that axle accurately?Using a ruler on both sides?IDK.It still looks too far forward to me.That axle has turned.See that?It wasn't in that other side all the way.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/5/2012 @ 2:27 AM *

See that?It wasn't in that other side all the way.

guys how tight should the chain be to the rear sprocket?

.that cotter pin/hole is NOT running true vertical.Which means...that other side is NOT in the adjuster block 'slot'.The flange must be riding on the block itself...not flush in that block...see it?

Yes.

look at the adjuster block...it's SUPPOSED to have a hash mark on the upper part where it lines up with the swingarm hash mark....WTF?I'm not seein one...anyone else not seein this thing?Without a mark on there...HOW was someone lining up that axle accurately?

Yes, could be that the mark on the block was burned out in the photo (too long of an exposure). Or the block is inverted in which case it is installed improperly. If they somehow measured, I doubt it would matter whether or not they block was installed correctly--works same either way.

If it wasn't, you couldn't stick a cotter pin in the hole, right? Is that what you are saying?

Hub is right. If the axle flange on the other side was cocked, it would be shifted about 1/8" to the left. That might be enough that the cotter pin holes would not come out of the hub on the right.

I think what we are seeing, Grn is that the holes are not perfectly aligned to the castle nut slots but is close enough that the pin will fit through a bit off kilter.

Yes, I see the machine marks on the face of the axle block and so that thing is inverted and wrong side out. Not going to affect performance but that would be all it would take for me to question the expertise of whoever put that thing on.....and whether or not the axle was aligned properly.

Check it over. The signs are there.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/5/2012 @ 7:59 AM *

guys how tight should the chain be to the rear sprocket?

"Adjust looser, not tighter. A chain that is too loose will be obvious upon inspection before it ever becomes loose enough to fall off the sprockets or cause severe damage. A chain that is too tight could snap. For this reason, I always give preference to adjusting the drive chain looser rather than tighter. If the chain comes off, it will either wrap around the engine sprocket and gouge the bottom of the motor out or wrap around the swing arm causing a rear wheel lockup. A chain that has come off does not usually fly out harmlessly. Proper chain slack is important but it is also simple enough to be one of the maintenance procedures that the manufacturer expects owners to be able to do themselves.

Do not run the engine when measuring or adjusting chain slack or performing any other drive chain procedures. Amputations. Need I say more?? It has happened more times than I can count on both hands!

Measure chain slack on the top and bottom chain runs, then add those two for a final figure. This procedure is described in detail below. It is not how the manufacturer recommends measuring chain slack. They recommend measuring the chain slack on one run but if you have not already discovered, that is impossible because of the swingarm is in the way. You can only measure part of the chain slack on both runs.

Make small adjustments. As amazing as it may seem, turning the adjuster screws one sixth of a turn is often enough to tighten the chain properly. There are adjustment reference marks on the swing arm. You will never need to adjust the blocks one entire mark tighter in a single adjustment or even half a mark tighter. That would be much too tight."

CHAIN SLACK ADJUSTMENT <<CLICKY

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/5/2012 @ 8:03 AM *

heres the pics
how tight should the chain be to the sprocket, it seems like i have 3/4 play on it, do you think its too loose?

guys how tight should the chain be to the rear sprocket?

1. Stand on the chain side. Look at the sprocket as a clock face. At 3 o'clock, this tells you a lot about the chain. First try is to pull back on the link that is in plane with the axle. So, this is pretty much where you pull back the link. If a lot is showing, meaning, daylight thru a link and tooth, we are talking exaggeration, but this is more the link has to hug around the teeth in a tighter, closer pull. The less you can move it out, the less hours on the chain. The more you move it, the less lube was applied.

2. Since the rear wheel is on the ground, and in neutral for this, try; Moving the rear chain up and down on the teeth. You may have to maybe set the bike in gear? This is more a subtle move up, so try not to rock the bike off the side stand kind of watching the chain move some.

3. The way to tell if the chain is worn is to measure a certain amount of link pins. This is found in the shop manual. If pulling the chain back a lot, the moving up the teeth, if not look directly at the teeth and match those wear patterns in them manual, this would be where to find those answers. You'd be money ahead if you change all sprockets and chain at the same time. You can't really salvage an old sprocket.

Something like that.

I know what you meant. I'm making you check that chain a little bit the other way. ROOK can set you up on the chain adjustment you are looking for.

3/4 play on it, do you think its too loose?

way too F####ing TIGHT.

read the tutorial. 1.3" - 1.5 "

I did all that and havent noticed any light maybe my chain is tight enough, i wish i could take a pic but my wife has the camera i am using my phone

just got back he said i said a 1 1/2 play which is fine, all good again

"If it wasn't, you couldn't stick a cotter pin in the hole, right? Is that what you are saying?...No..that's not what I'm saying.The locknut AND cotter pin ARE aligned...with the hole in the axle.Look at the axle nut...it's off as well...along with the angle of the pin.The top part of the pin is at the second hash mark.Now...look at the bottom of the pin...it's at approximately the third hash mark if you came straight down with an imaginary line.The nut is also not geometrically lined up.Surely you see that?Look at the pic of the nut/cotter pin on my pics.Now look at the nut on Chuck's pic.The nut has nowhere to go once the pin is in place at the top...it has to be lined up once that pin is turned and pushed down into the axle 'slot/hole'.Otherwise,you can't get it(the cotter pin) to sit in the hole.Unless you seriously force it in there.

I don't know about you guys...but the ONLY way that axle could get 'off vertical' like that...is either the left side isn't in the adjuster block...OR,the adjuster block/axle flange is somehow damaged...maybe when the brakes were applied and the caliper rotated as it did.IDK.'A loud thunk"....?????I still would like to see a close-up of that left side...even if it's NOW right.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/5/2012 @ 1:11 PM *

I did all that and havent noticed any light maybe my chain is tight enough

just got back he said i said a 1 1/2 play which is fine, all good again

Please will you read my tutorial, Chuck? Please?

Look at the pin hole on my axle...at the facing 90 degree hole..See that axle nut slot....look how many threads(mm's)are still available.That's just about the amount of 'extra' that the axle would have IF it was NOT sitting in the opposite block.His axle wasn't all the way in....So it turned when he hit the brake.That's what I see anyway...it couldn't really go anywhere..not with those blocks in there...but...still...it wasn't all the way in either.If you look at the NEXT hole for that cotter pin in his pic(s)there...you can see it's not lined up with the adjuster bolt in the swingarm.It should be.If it was seated on the other side.

IDK...MAYBE...maybe it's fine and all.The tolerance in the adjuster block/axle flange on the left side there...it fits right in...no play once that axle is slid into it and all the way across...so IDK how it got 'turned'...but it looks to me like it is.That block is kinda thick...so....it probably WOULD be very hard to get a pin into that right side hole if it wasn't seated on the left side.??????I never tried it myself!!!!

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/5/2012 @ 1:23 PM *

Are you saying that the flange on the left side of the axle was not seated in the left block AND

that will still allow enough thread to pass through the right swingarm slot to allow for the axle nut to be tightened AND still have holes line up with castle slots?

I can almost see that, my threads protrude quite a bit beyond the axle nut.

Here's Chucks. This looks norm to me except his axle block is wrong side out as observed earlier.

I don't see where you are getting your info from Grn. Anyways, it is simple enought o just tell chuck to look at his sprocket side and check if the axle flange ius seated in the left side axle block.

Here, Chuckleberry Finn. Here is what the flange on the axle looks like when the axle gets pulled along with the block the flange fits in.

Here is what the flange looks like when you reinstall the rear axle and block.

and just so there is no confusion,

If your axle looks like that, it is installed properly. No way to know if it is torqued or aligned properly without measuring.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/5/2012 @ 1:30 PM *

Yes...you got some good shots there...okay..se the one where you're showing that close-up of the installed axle in the block?...okay...see the amount of MM's that would be taken up IF the flange wasn't sitting in there right?Look at the space of MM's on the nut side now....the depth of the castle nut cutouts.That's just about the same amount.I think you could force a cotter pin through that hole...tight,yes,but look at the pic of his castle nut from his new pics.Does that look like it was torqued down without some serious 'turning' to get it to allow a pin to be forced in there?That nut is damaged...like it was cranked REALLY hard and the wrench slipped or something.Trying to get 'just enough' tightness to allow that hole to accept a pin?Looks like it to me.

You can't really see how far out that right side threaded end is sticking out with that pin in there in the shot(s) he took of the castle nut straight on.How many threads do you see on the 'okay' pics of our axles?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 6/5/2012 @ 1:40 PM *

Greenie, I don't know what you just said about cleaning up that first diagnosis. The Rooksteer even called you on it. I'm showing you a design and how that hole moves back. The guy who assembled it had the slot on the other side lined up. Here is what I think happened. Everything was in place but the slotting of the brake hanger. That means, all parts are in place, spaced accordingly, no cotter pin out of phase with the axle end being outside the adjuster is what you are saying. I don't know how it can be any other way? If parts are parts, that pretty much calls the absolute walk for me in my pages of thinking.

It says, the person slid the top of the hanger under the swing arm stay. As the first hit of the rear brake happened, it flipped over as you see it. The caliper stopped things from moving any further.

The new owner did a pretty good job of salvaging that hose hoop.

YOU need to STFU...he's got ZERO threads showing on the right side straight on shot.Look at it.The tip is FLUSH with the outermost edge of the nut....PERIOD.IT aint in the opposite block all the way.Argue all ya want...it aint!!!!!!