Nah...I'm not sayin they're "defective"...not exactly.I'm suggesting that MAYBE the guy I bought my "new" M/C from....MAYBE he got a hold of a batch of factory units that he sold as separate deals not realizing they were "factory seconds" or something.IDK.I can't see Kawasaki allowing faulty parts to enter the customer base...but who knows....perhaps he got these from...CHINA or something,stamped and looking exactly like a factory part.IDK.It certainly didn't cost the same as a factory unit...that's for sure.Wouldn't be the first time counterfeits were out there.ANYONE could get a Kawasaki shipping box I'm pretty sure.With that first one...we(my mechanic and I)determined that the return hole was not okay somehow.It wasn't allowing the fluid to return sufficiently back into the M/C.All the bleeding in the world wasn't gonna help THIS situation.And the manual DOES mention about "getting pieces of rubber" (or whatever) lodged in that return hole.It does.So this may have been what was wrong.I didn't actually rip it apart to fully look at it.

I installed this unit after my crash...the original perch and M/C had been virtually torn off the bike...well,the lines anyway.The M/C ended up being gouged into the dirt.Along with the broken lines.It could have EASILY gotten dirt in that line(which didn't need replacing).When i installed the "new" M/C(came as a full unit,perch and reservoir and all),I installed,and bled the lines.I didn't see anything wrong...no dirt or anything.But it IS possible,since I didn't do a full fluid replacement(the slave was fine)...that it migrated back into the M/C somehow....restricting that return line in the process.There may have actually been nothing wrong with that M/C at all.IDK.Works GREAT now ever since!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 6/8/2011 @ 4:08 PM *

Thanks for the help. Out the door so just time for a quick thought.
Tie-strapping the lever over-night to the grip to remove trapped air. Heard of that?
Is there a fine spring in the 14's M/C piston assembly?? I'll gladly try the tie back method BUT just don't want to sag a spring.
I can't find a detailed illustration of it. Have any of you torn one down to see if there's a spring in there like my old GS has in it's brake M/C? If so, do you think squeezing it down over-night would damage it? Thanks.

ethin, not sure what you're getting at. With the sidestand down, the bike won't even start. Right?

blue, you ever taken the M/C's piston assembly out? Is there a fine spring in there?

Well, I guess I give up trying to find where the air is in my clutch. I made a few side threads related to this thread but I thought I'd report my latest attempt here.
Just to give some background on how I reached this point, I had some fluctuating lever play. I'd have almost no play and then the play could reach a good 1 1/2" or so, then it would soon "pump up" again and be back to normal. I was advised by another member here that said his identical issue was fixed by replacing the clutch springs with some aftermarket springs (which I will now do).
I decided first to replace the fluid since it needed doing anyway. I used a Mityvac and did the M/C just fine. Then went to the slave bleeder and about 1/2 way through I screwed up and let the reservoir go too low. I ASSUME I sucked in some air because my lever went from almost zero "play" to about 3/4" or so. Kind of hard to believe the fluid actually went so low that the reservoir hose went dry too but... I tried all kinds of methods to remove the air and have had no luck. I've never had so much trouble bleeding ANY bike or car I've owned. Because I still have what I believe is too much play I kept trying.
This time I had my younger son help hold things and tried a couple of things. It was mentioned that leaning the bike to the right has helped others so I tried something easier. I took the lever/M/C assembly off the bar. I tried the conventional bleed method while my son held the M/C at various angles that should promote any trapped air to go out the bleed valve. There's a small "protrusion" that is at 2:00 from the bleed valve. I assume it's hollow and is my best suspect to be trapping air. We angled the M/C so that the bleed was obviously the high spot and I tried several times to bleed it. No air at all came out. Can't believe it. We tapped the M/C and that didn't help.
Then I tried opening both valves and forced fluid UP through the slave to the M/C with a ball pump. Again angling the M/C so that air trapped anywhere should dislodge and come up through the valve. Nothing.
So I give up. I had a spill that made things just that much more fun. It was about 100 degrees in the garage. Damn.
I still have about 1/2" of play before you feel real resistance. Pull the lever in that 1/2" and release it and it immediately returns out so I know it isn't a piston issue. The play is very similar in "feel" to the brake actually, at least the first 1/2 to 1" range.
The extra play in combination with the fluctuating lever is too much to live with. I'll get the springs and hope that at least fixes the fluctuating. If so, the initial play I have doesn't seem to change performance in any way.
Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to add this and also to thank you guys for the help.

* Last updated by: KAK on 7/4/2011 @ 10:34 AM *

wow, what a huge PITA. Sounds like you gave it your all. If all info resources are exhausted, I guess I would be ready to bring it to a shop. At least if it is not fixed, you will know, having worked with it so much yourself. Please keep us posted on the outcome.

Thanks Rook. Kinda bummed over the whole thing. Was getting over it but got insult added to injury so to speak.
This morning I rode in. Clutch worked OK. Pull up and just before I shut off I look and see a couple small "spots" on my LCD cover. Right over the display. Yup, a couple tiny drops of fluid must have splashed and got on the cover and marred the cover. I covered stuff but obviously not enough.
Funny, I remember seeing a couple drops shoot up and looked but couldn't see where they went. I even told my son to look but we saw nothing. I swear I looked at the LCD cover but the garage lighting wasn't real good. I checked at Bikebandit and a new cover is about $80. Doesn't look all that bad but it does when it's YOURS right?
So it just gets worse. Learn from this fool, COVER THE HELL out of stuff even if you think something can't splash that far because you're going to be sooooo careful. Crap.
By the way, I'm assuming it's not that much work to replace that LCD cover? They sell those aftermarker gauge kits so it must not be THAT much trouble to work on. Anyone done this work? Thanks.

I don't know what the LCD cover is. Is it the hard, plastic case the LCD is in? Is it some kind of vinyl case that velcros on like the case that cell phones used to come in?

I'm trying to figure out which part contains the plastic cover over the LCD.
The factory manual and Bikebandit show the same drawing. It's either the upper meter cover or the middle meter cover. I can't tell by looking at the bike.
I THINK I need the upper meter cover. By the drawing, it obviously holds the two clear plastic covers for the gauges so it figures to also hold the plastic cover that is directly over the LCD display. Being all one piece would keep dust/water out.
If the clear plastic was part of the middle cover then it would be likely to leak.
I can ask the dealer or Bikebandit too before ordering.
Looking at the factory manual it doesn't look too hard to change. Just remove the windshield and it's right there. You need to remove something called an "immobilizer" too (if equipped). Don't know what that is but I don't think I see one. I'd like to just order the part and change it when I'm ready instead of tearing it apart now, that's why the request for help about the part to buy. Thanks.

Looking at the factory manual it doesn't look too hard to change.

OOOOOHHhh- you meant the LCD of the multifunction meter. I thought you meant an aftermarket Dynojet LCD that cables into a Power Commander..

25023A---that's your cover part.Saves your LCD from damage.So it was well worth it Your American Model has no Immobilizer.(yours IS an American model,yes?

You may need to remove the complete meter unit to get that faceplate off there.I think there are like four black screws behind the meter that need to come off first(after removing the unit from the bike).Then the sandwiched parts come off once those little screws are removed.LEAVE the UNIT SITTING WITH THE FACE UPWARDS.Use care when unplugging and replugging the meter harness back in.DO NOT TOUCH THE DIALS OR THE "UNCOVERED" METER FACE.
Make sure when you reinstall the replacement cover that you GET ALL DUST OR ANYTHING OUT OF THE METER FACE.AND...the new cover...make sure she's clean totally from the inside there.

I'm not entirely sure IF you need to actually remove he meter from the bracket....it's been a while since I worked with mine.There are TWO bolts holding the meter bracket to the frame...right there at the steering head on the frame.You "may" just need to unbolt that part,and the rest will lift out as one piece....just unplug the meter harness.I'm not sure however.You'll see it when ya get in there.It looks to me like there MAY be four screws holding the faceplate on(from the website parts diagram)....I've got an aftermarket cover on mine so I don't remember IF it was removeable from the front or not.I know at one point I did remove those black screws on the back of the meter...and the unit came apart that way as well(after it was off the bike).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/6/2011 @ 3:54 PM *

blue, as always, thanks for the reply.
Wow, I would've guessed that it was P/N 25023 which is the outermost cover. So the clear plastic right over the LCD is built into that "visor" shaped part or "middle" meter cover? Seems like the whole assembled package would be more water/dust tight if the outer cover that holds the clear plastic over each gauge would also hold the display cover. I kept staring at the whole set up and just couldn't figure out which part held the clear plastic directly over the LCD screen. So thanks and yes, I've already read the factory manual about how the meter must be kept upright and you can bet I'll watch for some dirt or something sitting in there due to static or whatever. I hope disconnecting doesn't cause issues other than re-setting the clock, etc. Still can't believe I allowed the fluid to get on there. Never done that before but then again it seems I'm doing a lot of stuff like that anymore. Couldn't be part of the aging process I hope. Whole thing has been a real PITA.

Also, mine is a Califonia model so it has no immobilizer as you say. What does the immobilizer do? What does you aftermarket cover look like? Any pics?

* Last updated by: KAK on 7/7/2011 @ 6:56 PM *

Yer doing fine KAK.Just learnin about yer spaceship.Hub can tell ya...I've done a few things that "weren't actually necessary" while tryin to be my own mechanic!Ah well...you learn as ya go along...or pay someone else to do it...which aint all bad either!!In my case,I just gotta know when to say..."okay,I aint gettin this"...and be done with it.So far...aint had to actually say that yet (though maybe I should have)

That immobilizer disables the ignition.Kinda okay...I guess.Guess they don't really care if the USA models get stolen!!!! Here's a pic of my aftermarket cover.WAY simpler than I thought to install(thank God). ..OOOPS...wrong pic ...here ya go.....actually,see that red ring on the ignition..THAT'S the immobilizer model ignition cover(the pic is off the web)...but my cover looks like that,,,same thing.

The shop manual is just that. Clearances and torque spec. Wire harness leads and sensor values. The rest is procedure. They give you plenty in there but you first need to know your own procedures or the physics to all that crap. Then you take that crap on the rack and experiment.

How many times did I get KAK'd I can count on my fingers. But it was trial and error goofing with that air bubble. I have to give credit to 1bad schooling me. I have to witness my own procedure to copy what 1bad already figured out probably swapping motors all the time, throwing the cover on and hey, my brake pedal just came back if I purged the puck back in >> Period. Nothing else.

If you ever changed the oil on the lower half where the gears are for the prop, you purge the oil up to the upper level line, was to remove the cap so it would displace and drain kind of push the air bubbles up to the top or no bubbles at all but just displace the air with the oil. Works for a boat, but not for bike, IMO.

Basically, if you are running clean down at the caliper, I would assume you have the air out of the line and caliper. Only thing left is a purge at the lever with the smaller nipple. Or, 1bad the piston by removing the piston clutch slave, push that piston home with the smaller nipple open. Keep the cap with it filled so that air has resistance on the other side of the nipple hole. If you keep the cap off, it might run past the nipple who knows? I'm doing double duty so the oil does not fly out of the rez and pepper the paint.

As far as I am concerned, does it make sense you are done at the bottom no bubbles? Do we have a master as our problem? And with the cap on, a hose on the nipple, your idea to aim that lowest point up; whatever you came up with is yes, do that too. Close the nipple before the piston homes in the housing... Try it one more time.

Thanks for the help. I think I'm leaving it as is for now. I'm going to order the stiffer Brock's clutch sporings though. Have a great weekend!
But just out of curiosity, how much play you guys have at the clutch lever? I've got about 1/2" or a tad more before it obviously builds pressure. Pull it in that 1/2" and it returns immmediately. Very similar to the brake lever actually except the brake becomes hard at about 1" or so.

You have to look at the video where you see both pulls. One was a long stroke before the master was nipple'd. It sat an inch or more close to the grip; before it hit the pressure plate. The short stroke was after the master bleed. That was like a half inch or more as soon as you pulled the lever from static. Then, you had this long stroke to the grip where all that time to send the plates home.

See, you'll really snap that first gear in and it may creep forward so watch out! Inch or so from static = Safe. Inch or more from the grip before it makes contact = Danger!

Still can't believe I allowed the fluid to get on there. Never done that before but then again it seems I'm doing a lot of stuff like that anymore. Couldn't be part of the aging process I hope. Whole thing has been a real PITA.

I'm a little bit pissed now that I see I have a couple spots etched from brake fluid that apparently flew off my front brake reservoir which the cap was coming loose on. Irony of all f%$cking irony, I was thinking of this thread and the hassle you were going through when I checked my brake fluid level. I carefully placed a towel under the fluid reservoir when I took the cap off. I guess I did not tighten up the little retainer enough. Its gone and the cap was a bit loose. Felt a drip of fluid around the bottom of the cap.

Have a couple cloudy spots on my meters. I was able to buff the worst one out of the multifunction meter with a handy detailing product I use. I'm sure it will work for my tach face cover too. A coat of wax and all will be like new but what a huge friggin PITA this stuff is going to drive me nuts. I sure hope I can buy a new screw and retainer or that is going to be another PITA I will have to go through.

I guess I know why they have those little socks to put over the brake fluid reservoir now. It's for people who lost there retainer. This bike is going to drive me crazy.

You're not alone, KAK.

Just got back from vacation. Thanks for the replies.
Rook, hope you were able to buff out the fluid spots. It's a pain in the butt when you try to do a good job and stuff just happens. I even had my 15 year old son check for spills and he missed the little drops on the gauge cover too. They're very small but I'm too picky about the bike. I'm going to try applying some wax or maybe a little clear coat scratch remover on mine. What have I got to lose? If I can't remove the spots without smudging it all up I'll just order the new cover for $80. Hope I can at least remove the shield/instruments without issue.(sarcastic)
Then I still have to hope the new Brock's clutch springs fix the original problem of the lever play fluctuating. Getting ready to order them now. Man, I wish I was still on vacation.

It's a pain in the butt when you try to do a good job and stuff just happens.

But, I am only a normal perfectionist. Always like to say, better to ba a perfectionist than a half-assist.

I still have one spot to rub out. Those things are not even visible in good, bright sunlight. I see them in the garage under the door opener light LOL!

4 years and I still want the bike to look new. I am getting used to the thing having a couple ticks in the paint but nothing anyone would see without looking really hard.

WHEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!"ticks in the paint".....wohoo!!!I bout went NUTSO trying to keep my bike "pristene".Lookin at most of you guy's bike pics...shi& man....I'm ALMOST ashamed of myself!

Listen,she was doin really good I thought UNTIL......that friggin pebble or whatever it was nailed the front cowl fairing right up by the mirror.When I saw that "teensy tiny" ding...my days of "perfection" were done baby!I ride my bike fast and aggressive.IMPOSSIBLE to keep every nook and cranny spotless.I tried.I've got a few ticks and spots where I've friggin dropped a wrench or somethin...you now...nothin serious mind ya,but still....I quit sweatin it and just ordered up a set of Colorrite pens for my Plasma Blue Baby.Looks okay.NO ONE sees it but me!Wouldn't even know there's a nick or whatever there...I just buff em out with some Mequiar's,that works really well.

For 46,000+ miles....she's actually in remarkable shape if I do say so.Course,I do take care of her carefully.Sweet bike....VERY cool.EASY to take care of and keep lookin good IMO.And I NEVER use water..only a damp rag and buff cloth.Wipe down everything I see...works great!

Good thing about this Plasma Blue paint...it's BLACK underneath...so any tiny deals actually are virtually impossible to see unless you KNOW somethin is there.SWEET!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/21/2011 @ 10:03 PM *

The old bluebird looks as shiny and new as any of them. I think we all suffer from our own knowledge of what is really there upon close inspection. Sounds like you have gotten over it pretty much. There are some aspects of te bike I am starting to like for there roughness of appearance. The exhaust is chipped and the metal which you can now see is gold. The rear wheel is extremely dirty right now, too. When I see that sort of thing, and I see the bike running good, I start to get a vision of some of the tattered vehicles in Mad Max.....and that of course is really cool. I could see a ZX-14 rat bike some day (with NOS).

Well, I lucked out big time! The fluid left two spots over the LCD display, each big enough to cast a shadow below it. But only about the size of a pin head.
I thought I'd try some Turtle wax though I didn't think it would help. I just didn't want to leave scratches.
I put just a light dab of wax on and barely wiped it on. Wiped it off and couldn't believe they were gone! I barely rubbed it and that's all it needed. Nice to get a break for a change.
I'm surprised but happy. I tried rubbing fairly hard with a wet towel a few times before and the spots didn't change so I know it was clutch fluid. Some kinda magic in that wax.
Just thought I'd post in case anyone else has this happen.

* Last updated by: KAK on 7/24/2011 @ 1:36 PM *

So KAK...did you get yer clutch deal going okay?

I'll say one thing....that Plexus visor cleaner stuff...it works REALLY GOOD on bodywork.You do have to buff it out though,at least one extra time.But it works great for givin her a nice clear sheen.

"Tattered vehicles"...ya...know what ya mean Rookster.I don't want mine to ever look like those(bit TOO extreme for me)...but...I've got a few dings like in the mufflers(underneath)where I guess some pebbles or somethin nailed it.No biggie.Gotta say though Rook...yer bike ALWAYS looks very good.Clean.Taken care of.Awesome man...just awesome.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/24/2011 @ 2:21 PM *

blue, just ordered the heavy duty clutch springs from Brock's. Romans(?) I think, said his problem was the same as mine and these springs fixed it. Hope they come in time to install them next weekend.
Sure hope they fix it. Next to the motor my favorite thing about the bike is how the clutch works. Would be nice to have it working again like it should.