Yeah...he mentioned 'free play'''AFTER I asked about it....can't you read?He also said...THANKS GRN and HUB for your inputs".....gotthat?Do you?The only one here trying shut out everyone elses inputs is....YOU...self serving prick You didn't answer the question....HAS this happened with any of YOUR 14's?.Yet I'm supposedly lying when I talked about MINE...and MY fixes for it.Go ahead...'fix' his bike....don't waste his time hammering me here....YOU fix it.And don't say it's MY fault for your fishing.Just address the OP with his problem....can you do that?

BTW....HE's the one who suggested an air leak....not you.[/quote] Yes or no, it made the most sense. Where were you to correct me with the euro 02 compliant? I had to catch myself before you? Like you had a clue to put another 2 and 2 together. Those are a lot of NOLTT Y and N's all up in your face, no?

You're just monopolizing on his idea.

You see the difference? He had a clue, you are still flushing a clogged toilet and it keeps overflowing you don't know were the clog is, yes or LOL

No way are you gonna give ANYONE props for ANYTHING here.

Have you giving a good suggestion or caught me working your ass over and over is use is the entertainment is you go there is you are the scumbag I know. Know credit is you until you clear your throat of me cun'inn down your abstract or get it right so I don't have to yank it out and dickslap the shit out of guys like you generic runner uppers.

Oh clown suit? Can we wait for the OP's broken throttle body or singed bike? I guess you don't work on too many bikes do you mr grn?

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See, page 2 I wish you'd shut up and wait for the OP's move.

Yeah...he mentioned 'free play'''AFTER I asked about it....can't you read?

You would make a shitty detective. You'd ask if the dead person got shot and the shell is next to him. You didn't see it is all. It was sort of obvious but you had to ask? Meanwhile the contact cleaner is evaporating the scene is you might as well ask if the engine is running?

Nice suit.

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Ahhh... still warm!

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Hey, your questions are valid, but not at this time. You read as much as I have. We can only go by what the OP mentions. For me, he mention way too much for you to come back and ask all the cleared away questions. That is the difference, honey love.

Without your embarrassment waiting in the wings is just admit the abstract walked all over yours is not at this time are yours for this situation. I will answer it for you. I want you to be right, but for now, your suggestions are dead ends.

The OP is the one who knows the bike better than we is use his variable being he is closer to that answer. So I have to go with the air leak is the O2 compensating using more gas to keep it running is a leak in closed loop, do you agree or not?

If we both clocked in and diagnosed the problem, I think you'd clock up way past what warranty would pay they came in with this type of symptom. As far as running high we have fuel being sent in is an 02 variable to a stuck open throttle.

If the OP just turned the key on with a cold engine, this would trigger the choke map. We turn the key off, the actuator would send everything home. Then, go to the sub shaft and twist it home or is it home? This way, no need to unhook a sensor electrically if it's mechanical.

Why did I come up with that and you are still picking your nose? Think shit out asshole or stop posting wanting some credit trying to help the OP.... "IDK" and "Sheeesh" look at you as I pullshit out me ass you hole!

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Guess Hub'll put up the money to buy the OP's new wiring harness and all...that'd be cool...now about that 'structure'.....that's gonna be a tad more spendy methinks.
"If the OP just turned the key on with a cold engine, this would trigger the choke map"...and you KNOW there's a 'choke map"?.How do you know this...since yer trying to tie this into a fueling issue?..I mean...where are you getting this 'info' from...a 'choke map'?All it's doing is increasing the rpms mechanically...for a set time until the engine temp hits a certain spot...then it drops back down to idle.It's no different than holding the throttle slightly open till the motor warms.There's no 'special fueling' going on.The mapping(which I've seen)is ZERO's all the way to about 5k in that lower TP.If it wasn't an electrical choke...it'd be just like a conventional cable choke.Raise the rpms till it warms...then drops down.No fueling change...only what would normally be there for an increased throttle application.You tell me if I'm wrong here....I'll listen.

"This way, no need to unhook a sensor electrically if it's mechanical"..well...IS it mechanical,or electrical?.What's doing what?You see?You gloss right over what I meant...and turn it completely around.It wasn't to 'check' the mechanical side of the thing...it was to make sure the connectors in the plugs were sound.THAT'S ALL....I've seen the inside of some of these connectors.They CAN corrode and stop performing optimally.Yet they may still function enough to be usable.But wtf do I know....only suggestions...that's all.Not cold facts.Unless I actually HAVE the facts.Then I'll say so.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/24/2013 @ 12:13 AM *

I think the guy got the drift this is some dangerous shit to diagnose in so many ways is the loophole a cold engine hello? WATT costs more is that throttle body you go busting snaps off and who knows how brittle that plastic is now? And I mean, the bike starts, no codes, why are you messing with a codeless sensor?

Because you have no clue. Bust the guys parts and let him chase a NOLTT. Not my bike, not my call he jumps off a bridge and he sees no dash yelling the bridge is out!! The bridge is out!

[Jerkoff icon]

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....I've seen the inside of some of these connectors.

Sure you have. Name the bike, the year, the model, the condition of the bike, the this the boots... Were are my boots? It's beginning to get high here.

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Model...zx14....year...2007....miles...approx 6K....sensor...cam position...condition...badly corroded)(not visible from outside).......operation...STILL FUNCTIONAL...wiring...corroded....operation....still reading correct ohms.Footnote....outside sensor cover looked perfect.Had to break the cover open to reveal the REAL condition inside.Look on the ECU removal and install instructions...it says..."look for missing or damaged pins" in more than one place......what's THAT tell ya.Shit happens...that's what.To ANY of these connectors it can.You confirm fine condition BY LOOKING.That's why they have 'snaps' on em.....

Okay....there you have it.Don't take my word for it....the book says they go bad sometimes....they do..and you can't always see the electrical condition by looking.But then of course...you know this...so why question me about it.

Cause.....moisture entering seam or wiring entrance....hot engine....condensation.WASHING with a spray wand.Moisture entering from rain soaked pavemant while riding.Who knows...it gets in there...and not just THAT one either.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/24/2013 @ 12:28 AM *

Raise the rpms till it warms...then drops down.No fueling change...only what would normally be there for an increased throttle application.You tell me if I'm wrong here....I'll listen.

Where is your AFR meter to state that? Water temp, air temp, altitude calls the fuel no matter what base map you are reading. Do the numbers change as you rev the engine on your aftermarket map? Then how did you come up with just the throttle opening is the fuel trim? Did you listen to that?

"This way, no need to unhook a sensor electrically if it's mechanical"..well...IS it mechanical,or electrical?.What's doing what?You see?You gloss right over what I meant...and turn it completely around.

So far it's mechanical. There are no codes to cause it to run electrical is the fault you are guessing at. You are glossing over what I am trying to show you not the OP is how you are not understanding the shop manual is owning one shows me you are about as useless having it around you don't read what is so in the absolute walk of it.

Did you have 5 codes on the fly and see how they followed book to its conclusion? No. Did your bike ever look like mine with all the wires heading all over those sensors? No. Did you plug and play some code maker and you are all jumping up and down about your bike being in a limp mode it pee forums so well? LOL Yep. Did you explain in your own thread you now feel a buzz in the bike and who clued you in to zone in on it? I think you turn a lot of shit around and around. I have to follow the absolute so I am not confused like yourself is didn't the pond boys clue you in about your lack of mechanical savvy? They sort of wanted you to sit down as if you bleed it out your pores do you, mr jones, da ta da-da.

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Where you live grn, all the cars should be on the side of the road with the corrosion. 'STILL FUNCTIONS' means book. Book says 'within spec will I not send a code.' Are you trying to turn this around with the advancer bolt being loose?

Diddlen't I tell you not to buy the crank sensor? You had the book. Absolute says I work being I start the bike every time. But you didn't see it. It was right there in between the lines that said it in so many words LOL diss is so funny!

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/24/2013 @ 12:41 AM *

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No Hub....that wasn't the context...we both know that.

"So far it's mechanical"...and that just 'occurs' without any input?.

"Did you have 5 codes on the fly and see how they followed book to its conclusion? No. Did your bike ever look like mine with all the wires heading all over those sensors? No....no,I didn't.Did I ever say your testing was stupid?No...I didn't.Just because you 'ran these tests' it doesn't make you the only person able to help another with something.

"Did you explain in your own thread you now feel a buzz in the bike and who clued you in to zone in on it?"...For your info...you didn't clue me in to any buzzing phenomenon.I felt something different as the miles piled up.And I said so.You were talking about 'the bars'....I was referring to the chassis....up through the seat.I said my bars felt fine...and they do.If you think that any two zx14's are gonna be the same with all the variables going on...you're too close minded to be telling anyone to 'go and sit down'.... The more you know...the more you realize how little you really know.No one here has a full grasp of the workings of this bike...no one.What does what...what causes what.The book gives the guidelines...but it doesn't say EVERYTHING.It talks about free play...what it should be...but does it mention this OP's problem.Nope....it doesn't.Nor does it even elude to what might be causing his situation.There's a lot of deducing expected when trying to understand this thing.Sometimes there's more than ONE solution.

"Absolute says I work being I start the bike every time"...yeah...in STOCK form.It wasn't in stock form.

"Diddlen't I tell you not to buy the crank sensor?"...if I hadn't,WE wouldn't know right now that these deals CAN be corroded on the inside without it throwing a code OR not functioning.The book doesn't address that.Reading between the lines....and who determines that?ONE person?Several people discussing a common topic?Who.Who's qualified [here] to make the final judgement on a given topic?I'll tell ya...whoever gives the workable solution.That's who.For THAT topic.And THAT topic only.Next one may be from someone else.We throw in our 'ideas'(tried ideas hopefully)..and maybe someone gets their problem solved.If I haven't hooked up 5 sensors and tested em on the fly...I can't very well say..."hey...jerkoff...go sit down...you don't get it"....but if I've tried something...as 'different' as it may sound...and it works...why rip it?

The sensor worked.The code was right.Cam position.Did the book say..."aftermarket timing wheels that become loose may throw a timing code related to cam position"...no...it didn't say that.But it was coding the way it should....timing off...though it didn't specify where.You didn't get it...I didn't get it.But it was right there all the time.Nothing at all to do with a sensor.Whether it was working or not.Yet the book says..."open or short"...ANYONE not familiar with certain possibilities could easily spend time looking after the wrong thing just 'going by the book'...

If there's any Kawasaki full on techs here...they aren't talking.All these issues are known by the competent Kawasaki mechanics.These aren't 'strange' problems.None of em.Lots of good knowledge here...for sure...but not all.I say again...these issues are NOT freak occurrences.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/24/2013 @ 1:14 AM *

Hey stoop, do you see this? "..I was referring to the chassis....up through the seat.I said my bars felt fine...and they do." I don't care if it comes up your asspucker, is there a buzz you now picked up and it was there all the time. And you still have no clue what it is.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/24/2013 @ 1:27 AM *

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" and it was there all the time"...no offense...but I think I know my bike a little better than you do...and no...it wasn't there all the time..
And it DOES matter where it's coming from....if ya intend to find out how to correct it.

"And you still have no clue what it is".....Did you read my post about MY buzzing....what I did to correct it?Now...maybe you can learn something about YOURS....course,you wouldn't tell anyone if ya did...God Forbid.

Just keep posting your fixes...I'll keep posting mine.If I 'challenge' something that's said....then I challenge it.If ya can't give a civil answer back....too bad...sorry.They are YOUR answers.And guys ARE reading em.Trying to be a 'tough guy' with me won't work...you outta know that by now;)Dissing me doesn't reflect back on me...it bounces back on you...they're YOUR thoughts...not mine.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/24/2013 @ 1:33 AM *

I think I walked so much hubberishitspeak trying to figure out this 'generic computer bike.' It takes basic knowledge to walk up to a carb bike and know your 3-amigos. It takes generic 3 wire variables to figure out what is not written like a snowflake is the trouble tree.

I've tried to explain the bike in so many words. Only a few here have followed what I've been saying all along you limp mode more on diss another time. There was a buzz with the '08 too. I said to follow the book sync how many times?

I read the book before the bike came. Even though you think the book is right, you don't see the sub-systems it is tied to. So it said 'phantom code' but you were not savvy enough to trust the book walk. You guessed at it and I read between the lines how the book was right and you were chasing your tail was me cluing you in but would anyone LTT?

Serves you write. LOL

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...no offense...but I think I know my bike a little better than you do...

I'm sure a LSR bike you'd setup would be without balance weights eyes west my case, unless the track points south is find someone to get on it and go for it LOL... No oh will I sit on the fence and watch diss.

I know you are the man for this so it's all yours. I'll now sit down be the clown is gimme some of my own medicine man is you da man... Rigggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhtttttt. Good luck you two. Fucking page3 asshole generic runner upper does not even change his fork oil I'm putting my stock pipes back on I shoulda stayed stock like the hubbIS running is not even close yet is it smooth.

You had me at throttlestink

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Hey you guys, I really appreciate all the advice and shooting out ideas, but maybe we could take a break with the pissing contest until we know more about the problem...

Hub and Grn14, you both have valid ideas and we'll just have to dig more to find out what exactly is the issue. But we are getting closer! We have already done amazing work, all of us, to diagnose this issue - really! At this rate the problem is solved without having to bother the dealer at all - which is why I asked for you opinions - because in Finland this time of year all the dealers are so booked that solving a simple issue like this might take time... and before that would happen maybe I already had jumped off a bridge as Hub mentioned ...

So everyone ...

A few points I have to make from the previous dialogue.

The air leak wasn't my idea, it came from the Kawasaki mechanic I visited last autumn (a very, very qualified one...) and it was just an idea that might be worth checking. He did also mention checking and spraying the connectors for oxidation and did think that trying to lube the mechanisms was a good idea also. I haven't gotten to the bike yet - tomorrow night I will.

I think Hub actually has a point with the "choke map", though apparently there's no actual map for the warmup mode - but I have understood that the ECU always compensates for the atmospheric conditions when calculating fuelling, using the atmospheric air pressure sensor (below the seat), intake air pressure sensor (in the throttle body) and intake air temperature sensor (in the air box, right?). From those readings the program calculates a correction factor for the fuelling values found from the lookup tables stored in memory (or maps as they say). Thus if air temperature is colder, the amount of fuel injected gets higher (more oxygen when temperature cold, air density higher) etc. right? But otherwise the warmup mode is apparently just idle speed adjustment (using the throttle plates) until engine coolant temp is enough to drop the idle to its normal preset. Its not like the choke lever in older bikes where pushing the lever actually meant enrichment. Another example is the "choke" lever found in older fuel injected bikes such as the Gen 1 Hayabusa or ZX-12R. Those bikes were fuel injected but didn't have an automatic cold start mode - instead they had a fast idle lever to raise the idle speed for cold start. The ECU of course did the rest automatically ("enrichment" for cold temperature etc.). But there was no automatic mechanism to raise the idle speed needed for cold starting.

But on the other hand Hub talked about closed loop versus open loop. Now that's a question. Apparently the closed loop mode is only active on higher gears 4,5 and 6. So when idling in neutral, the ECU is in open loop mode. But even if it was in closed loop mode and thus correcting for the air intake all the time with the narrowband lambda sensor, the idle speed still would rise because of a leak. In my understanding if the engine gets more air in closed loop mode, the lambda sensor indicates a lean condition, in which the ecu responds by increasing fuelling to compensate, just to return the air/fuel ratio to its desired steady state condition. Thus the idle speed would of course rise with the engine given more fuel and air - what more can an engine want for more RPM ...

So to sum up, the possible causes so far suggested are sticking throttle mechanism, electrical issue (oxidation at some terminal) and vacuum leak at the intake. Any more ideas?

I could still use some pointers to the current set of ideas as to where and how to start with diagnosing. Lubing the mechanisms should get rid of any sticking, just spraying some WD-40 to all the mechanisms or what? Air leaks can be identified by spraying something not flammable to the vacuum lines or something? Electrical connectors should be checked by disconnecting them and checking for corrosion and maybe spraying them with something before reconnecting?
Also the throttle cable slack - should there be slack in both ways - also in the return cable or just the one pulling?

Grn14, how did you exactly solve your similar problem. What did finally solve it? I didn't get the hang of it.

* Last updated by: ilarik on 4/24/2013 @ 4:39 AM *

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On a carb, you pull choke, it either lowers a flap so the vacuum pulls out more fuel to even the vacuum of 1 atmosphere. So the ratio is going to be more fuel under choke conditions. If it was another type choke system, some use a heat sensor, a pintle is pulled out of it's closed position, exposes a large fuel metering hole and this feeds fuel to the engine via no choke but massive flow in choke mode is again, notice more fuel is more fuel, not an open main plate via the actuator in choke map mode.

The morning map is just that. It moves the main slide open, notes all the other sensor inputs like water temp is behind the engine cylinder. The air temp sensor is positioned in one of the service doors. The intake air pressure sensor is the same sensor used under the seat and you can tell the bike is open loop because of the 02 sensor replacing that seat sensor and when you see the 02 at the pipe, this is closed loop.

We have an open loop bike for tuning purposes. If we use a lambda based engine feed (02) we are stuck with the system always remaining in lambda or ideal 14.7 psi. In other words, the 02 is a toggle switch, you gas the throttle, the demand goes into open loop. The 02 now corrects the rich setting caused by the X demand [throttle opening] vs. Intake demand pressure is Y. The final fuel feed is always running on and off rich/lean back to 14.7 lambda.

So when I said to turn the key on, no engine start and a cold engine so the morning map ratchets the sub throttle, opens the main plate a tad, we are stuck in morning map mode is a faulty ECU [IF] the actuator is stuck open when key is turned off. So no need to lube if turning the key on ratchets the sub/main open, you turn the key off, the ratcheting goes home.

It says the electrical part is moving the choke mode off the lookup map chart. It is now in close mode. If a switch was corroded, it stops sending in a recognized signal, sets the code, you have:

1. A broken wire.
2. A wire out of connector.
3. Corrosion that sends in a different number being it is in a resistance mode not sending in the required number and then sets code. But this is not the case. I do not see threads with sensors failing due to corrosion all over the world is the different corrosion happening near sea level, winter mountain environments, the bike in the garage with the dryer setting off all that condensation in the garage so it settles between pins and blocks the frequency? I don't think so. Think of corrosion on the battery posts and they still start the bike, take a charge, etc. It has to be so severe so as to cause itself not to feed the starter being the corrosion do not send in the next move. Are we on the same page yet you go running around for nothing?

Since you can ride the bike around, won't overheat like it was starving for fuel, it seems like a physical problem? I could be wrong, but you'll finally figure out via air leak, mechanical hangup, or something electrical. Why am I not chasing electrical? No codes present. Once you understand how the electrical system is a preset like a toaster, you just can't throw in some other resistor or remove a part from the toaster and think it will work the same. It is a preset like the computer bike. If the sub sensor drags, sticks, does not keep up with the TPS input, is not one tripping over an out of balanced input signal? Would not the sticking of said shaft/sensor set a code? Yep.

So a novice is sending you on a goose chase as you snap connectors clean off going after a suggestion that is not for this issue. It's like saying the bike does not run, but someone says to clean the carb but never suggested to check compression first? So the bike does not run after the carb clean. It was a tight valve, stuck valve, frozen rings the bike sat and rusted up in said environment. See how one can chase tail if they do not walk out each suggestion from a far?

I can see it from here is one runner upper can fuck up a simple diagnostic is 30 pages long of shithe fuck down you clueless fuckers of the net. Since 1999 not one tech could come up with WATThe fuk the tre was doing? Too fucking simple is the answer. Book savvy make one not savvy if they flip thru the pages and do not read between the lines is you need to know the basics before you open the book thinking your answer is there like some think there is. Those assholes you put in their plate is throw the book athem. LOL

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I just lubed mine...worked the mechanism...adjusted the play...and it worked.Maybe I just got lucky...IDK...but I didn't need to check for leaks...I didn't want to ruin a thread with my responses...I got involved again and I shouldn't have....Hub's way way more into these things than I'll ever be....sorry for the sidetrack here Iliark...I think you'll get it going...mine straightened out.

I didn't have secondaries in mine when it did this....only a PC3 and a map off the Dynojet website.TiForce dual slip-ons with 4 degree advance(manual[Muzzy])

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/24/2013 @ 10:16 AM *

Grn14, no you didn't ruin anything! I really appreciate all ideas that might help! Just there's no need for anyone to get worked up over this...

And Grn14, just that I'm on the right page or something. Your bike also had its idle stuck too high, didn't drop after the warmup and all you did was lube the mechanism and adjust freeplay? Also the other thing was, is there supposed to be freeplay in the return cable of the throttle or is that supposed to be tight?

I really hope it's something simple. Maybe just lubing the mechanism thoroughly will help. If it won't, then it might be the notorious air leak in the vacuum lines. Tomorrow we'll know more. I'll start by spraying an intrusive lube all over the mechanisms and maybe doing some cleaning at the same time.

It's just my luck that when everything should be all right and sorted out, cleaned, shining and everything. Then something simple as this fails... I was really devastated last sunday, but now I'm starting to feel hopeful again, since it might be a really simple thing after all.

It's just amazing how much people really get in to it here. One day and two pages of messages. Compared to my first call to a dealership where the service manager told me to take the bike out and ride it and perhaps it'll sort it self out ... ... hmm...

* Last updated by: ilarik on 4/24/2013 @ 1:29 PM *

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"And Grn14, just that I'm on the right page or something. Your bike also had its idle stuck too high, didn't drop after the warmup and all you did was lube the mechanism and adjust freeplay? Also the other thing was, is there supposed to be freeplay in the return cable of the throttle or is that supposed to be tight?"...the return cable should allow the throttleshaft to snap back pretty briskly...but not pulling too much.The 'open' throttle one should be allowing the cable to return to full close...yet have a minimum of play.Yours sounds okay...checking the cables to see how tight they were at the throttlebody ends.Sounds okay.

And yeah...I cleaned the mechanism,same deal....couldn't get the idle screw to contact the tab...it wasn't closing all the way.I cleaned,removed the cable ends from there....worked em a bit to make sure they weren't binding at the throttle grip...then sprayed silicone spray on the mechanism and the Bellcrank thing...the spring in there...all of that.Reconnected the cables....FORGOT to install the spring clip...and started her up.She worked...but it didn't feel quite right.I turned the throttle and watched the bellcrank...that's when I saw the cables moving...which they shouldn't have been.I reinstalled the clip....everything worked fine after that.You could have a vacuum leak I suppose?Maybe.You could check that as per Hub's advice...he knows what he's talking about.

3-118 = No mention whatsoever where/mileage/chapter is the factory saying to lube the throttle body linkage.

4-3 = Oh look! A page that tells you where lube is needed

G-L-R = Grease - Lube - Replace is the answer in question.

OP has high idle issue? Check yer chain slack. After that, remove the head and look at yer gasket. IDK if it will walk but at least I'm on the 3rd page!

Unfucking real. YOu fucking runner uppers will never learn to let the OP breath. Stop with your lame asshit that even the book mentions nut'inn honey. You assholes of the net even own the fucking book you can't even read it right.

Page 4-3 mentions no lube needed sans the throttle cable. One more time for the stupid clowns that need to sithe fuck down is turn key on watch your balls drop to the ground stay the fuck outta town till you grow the fuck up and study the book I have to clean up your shit is Q&A is not your best subject is NOLTT about you throwing your weight around is off the wheels LOLLOLOLO

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/24/2013 @ 10:35 PM *

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Hey again...

Tonight I tried with a friend of mine to lube the throttle mechanisms. Didn't help. It's just the same as before. I sprayed some molybdenum penetrating grease all over the thing and no change.

Maybe it's a vacuum leak or an electrical fault then... I'm really bummed out right now...

* Last updated by: ilarik on 4/26/2013 @ 6:04 PM *

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I could have told you that but no one listens to turtle. They rather follow some lame move that is not even in the factory manual, nor has anyone ever needed to spray the linkage and how many 14's are out there with a stuck (cough) throttle needing a lube?

Only clowntowns that are clueless, need to sit down, is run you around: and it is your fault! YOU no listen to turtle, you molly limberger cheeze is, this guy has no clue is now clog your linkage up and gum it downclown. LOL, you clowned your bike no shit!

Gas is detergent. It cleans as it moves. If it evaporates, that's a different story. It the throttle sits, maybe it gums. But you just left it alone for a few months, right? Mice or rats start nesting in your garage say? One more time:

1. Sitting and you did not park the bike with a high idle that does not come down = Varmints chewing for nests.
2. ECU = Again, the long shot since you parked the bike without issue. Why does the throttle not come down is an ECU stuck in some stage or sensor remains constant? But a sensor is analog and one single number coming in, the ECU would counter that number and code.
3. Back to an internal hangup are the throttle plates. So is there a nest somewhere on the bike? Are the hoses chewed upon? I doubt it because it should stall, unless that 02 is super fast on the fuel change which I kind of doubt at the moment. I want to be wrong. Bad enough I told you with a post you are going down clowntown is the dead end move.
4. Take brake clean, clean off all the oil you sprayed on so as not to capture road grit and really chew up the linkage. The roller crunching the actuator gear on the rebound as it rolls over that tiny stone? Your bike, your move.
5. Wear your clown suit before you approach the bike before working on it you take suggestions from the "RUNNER UPPERS." I told you someone needs to shithefuckdown but will they list them?

Signed,

NOLTT

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Hello everybody.

I though I should share some updates. We did some digging with two of my friends during the weekend. It seems that the main throttle shaft is stuck and doesn't return to its "zero" position normally. My friend with a 06 ZX14 came to this conclusion after hours of digging into his bike, zooming into lots pics he had taken when he had his throttle body assy out and reading the factory service manual. We discussed about it and took a look at some more pics and I considered his opinion to be solid.

Earlier in the weekend we compared my bike to his 2006 model and did some measurements of the throttle linkage and its clearance to the warmup idle control mechanism (with the mechamism in the normal idle mode). The clearance in my bike was about 0.5 mm higher. We cleaned every place we could get to (without removing the throttle body assembly) with compressed air - with an actual compressor, not a spray bottle. Then lubed everything we could get to. No change. I went out and took two short rides - no change. Otherwise the bike worked normally.

We also checked the O2 sensor connector for tightness and integrity. Also we disconnected it and the connector plugs were okay according to my friend. We also turned ignition on with the O2 sensor disconnected. It instantly triggered and FI error which was brought to the screen. With the O2 connected the FI error disappeared of course. This might be a moot point anyways since according to the "information" I was able to find from the web, the O2 sensor is used only - or to put it otherwise - the ECU operates in closed loop mode only in the gears 4,5,6.

Then later on yesterday evening my friend came to his conclusion while looking at his pics and his bike with the covers off. He (and me too at the moment) is like 95% sure that the problem is simply a sticking main throttle shaft. Since there are all kinds of synchronization screws and mechanisms in the middle of the throttle body assy, that simply some dirt could had gotten in to the mechanisms and jamming them - not allowing the shaft to return. I then had a "heureka" kind of a moment and added that maybe its the rough idle too that its caused by the sticky mechanism !?! Since there's the throttle body synch between the four plates and especially the on that gives the 1-2 and 3-4 throttles their respective synch, right? IF there's a jam somewhere and the plates are not moving in the correct synch especially in the smaller throttle openings (like 1-3%), there's a huge imbalance in the air intake between the throttles, right? Thus the individual air/fuel ratios are incorrect between the cylinders, and thus rough running, right? If this reasoning is correct, which I believe it is - this diagnosis counts for everything - why the idle speed is not settling and why the running is rough. Thus eliminating the need for an extra air leak to cause incorrect fueling.

Since the bike's still under warranty (for two weeks), I'll try to get an appointment to a good mechanic I know in southern Finland. I'm sure that he'll fix this in no time. I'll take some pics when I get there and post them here so everyone having read this will get the answer too.

* Last updated by: ilarik on 4/28/2013 @ 7:10 AM *

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