Yeah, red wires go to a relay then to a fuse = Hot. Should have thrown up the test light to see who is hot and who is not. But you can tell there is just the signal out of the spark box. If red is hot, spark box is ground. Make sense?

... but the part fiche is backwards to what the wires are on the bike.

hub and edge somewhere we got off the path lol, I understand the red and blk wires and how the connect.

I apologize, I don't think you understood me, I thought the wires you were talking about were the red and white, hence, why I did not mention color at all. Sounds like the system is not a complete cut off type like I had guessed and the white wires (control) are the wires the module needs like I also explained.

I'm just glad you got it all fingered out.

Hub I'm thinking that since this set up is bike specific why then can't they make it plug n play you know make a plug to go between coils and main sounds simple to me lol

A blue connector is the out. Way too many connectors between manuf's; none are universal. I'm thinking PC wires and 1bad's ECU going lean on one signal. That multi wire go anywhere [brown] wire may be a one reference signal, cancels out the sequence signal. And that is what this bike is all about you cancel out that base signal to certain maps for said cylinder.

If you can follow my page, my theory goes whack so as not to use numbers and calc out the wrong formula. I have to make the concept work first. I'm trying to click the engineering backwards; thinking on/off ~ 1's and 0's. I have to think like, 1bad was receiving an 0 and it needed a 1 to survive that cylinder's duty cycle. Man, it duties, it could send the ign all in a fluff. This bike does not lock in full advance once past a certain rpm like a set of points on a bike. This thing runs a bunch of advances/cruise/WOT signals; off that IAP (intake air pressure sensor).

And if the knock on the back door [of the ECU] says anything, tone is tone deaf now. Ign or injector, I feel the tone change on the injector signal. I'm sure if I set something on the spark stick, it would send me a tone change I toggle on the fly. Did you cancel out the sequence is my question?

She lit up just now. I could run 4 ohm meters to some setting, watch each receive one set of numbers all in the sequence, mind you; this is how the back door I can't find an answer. Did we show 4 sequential numbers as a base signal? Now we hit the brown wires and start her up. Do we see one signal across the board, the ohm meters read one number only. She wear out my brain are we going on the brown cut?

She quench my fire?

Craig: "The coils have a power wire that sends power to provide spark. Then there is a signal wire that tells the coil to fire which should source from the ECU. The brown wire is designed to hook up to the signal wire that would tell the coil to fire. When the kill module operates it is interrupting the signal sent to the coil to keep it from firing."

If I read this correctly, it says; Caution: Do not run the R for red wire or the kill switch side. This will burn out the unit. The unit is made to hook to the signal side so as to know here we go again I chew my cabbage twice.

yes sir i believe so

R, you got me with that pic. I want one of those.

if you noticed I had to go back to the OEM pedal the clutch rod on the vortex pedal was in the way of the shift cylinder

Rook that would be the one. thanks, i was out in the garage and from 5ft away you can't even see the cylinder bracket on there with that carbon fiber frame cover, look like the shift cylinder is just hanging there by itself lol
yea you better get one lol i wouldn't have it for the $800 price tag if not for winning that $2500 gift card. be sure to enter those sweepstakes on Facebook I'm living proof they r for real

Would the clearance problem between the shifter and the linkage rod be solved if it were possible to invert the knuckle that goes on the shift shaft for GP shifting? (forgot why GP shift wont work on the 14 but I know it does not).

rook it would have had the clearance if id of dropped the rear sets to the bottom holes but then a whole new set of problems would of raised like how to hook it up to the pedal. it is designed for the oem shifter would of had to fabricate something for it to work on the vortex pedal heres a pick of the part that slips over the oem pedal what it does is bring out the pedal another inch to keep it in lne with the cylinder. it was real freakin ugly but after powder coating you can't even really tell its on there

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 11/22/2011 @ 7:47 PM *

Hubster I'm getting ready to make my connections , Pingel supplied these lil blue connectors would you use these or just skin back the white wires and solder the brown ones onto them? anyone with any thoughts on this please chime in

it was real freakin ugly but after powder coating you can't even really tell its on there

Pingel supplied these lil blue connectors would you use these or just skin back the white wires and solder the brown ones onto them? anyone with any thoughts on this please chime in

Guess watt? This is raggedge work. You can collapse the connector pins of the OEM. If you have safety wire like aircraft kind of spool, I would heat up the solder gun, back-probe only until you have good contact on the other side of the pin. Take 'amazing goop' dab the wire with the glue so it stays in place. Then, solder the brown wires the next day. Let the glue setup and don't worry about using too little. Make that a strong hold. That is one.

The other is the quick and dirty is what the heck, use the blue connectors. You can snip the brown wires off, leave the connectors for the next owner to deal with, or you can remove them, again, I find that glue will cover that blue connector damaged cut into the wire. See, with the back-probe, that glue comes right off the wires and connector. And if you are lucky, you pull the wire out, hook the connector back up and all has good integrity? That is two, like it was never touched. Even the weather-pac's rubber boot should close that wire diameter up again like no harm no foul.

Call the ball.

thanks again hub think ill go with the dab of glue that and harness taped up they should be good to go

change in plans .... i went ahead and made my connections at the stick coil harness, main reason being i don't have 4 connectors all clumped together and if anything ever happened that harness is easily replaceable. well with any luck ill be able to test it out today or tomorrow. Let you all know how or if it works lol

well she passed the kill setting test (90ms) time to dress her back up and road test her. weather is co-operating here mid 40's low 50's the next few days

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 11/23/2011 @ 2:47 PM *

thanks everyone couldn't of done it without ya.

Cool! You're right. That harness can be replaced. Those connectors are as good as any connect, plus, it looks cleaner the way you set it up. Shit, you think you learned something. I should thank you.

Do a nice 11000 rpm run 1st-3rd gear. 4th if you dare.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/23/2011 @ 6:46 PM *

rook well be putting her thru her paces maybe tomorrow or friday would love to get her out tonight but way too many deer out there this time of yr

btw.. if anyone is interested the powder coat color on those bracket is mirrored black

* Last updated by: scottjkyl on 11/23/2011 @ 7:06 PM *

get out and flog that bich

after you had yer turkey, of course.