I honestly know very little about any of this bike's capabilities or electrics and such.

That's what I've been trying to tell you. I'm looking for a more robust hand that can squirt the tires on command. Since you've owned the skidder I couldn't get you to ice up last year with it.

You can do one of two things. Set the bike in L/3 and start wrinkling the tires just by leaving a light when it turns green. Don't leave rubber, don't rev the the engine, just leave as if you want to make distance from the door slammers and now did the bike buckle?

Now you need to do it over and over, and every time the light changes, you sort of roll to a stop and then time to leave, meaning, you have the feet on the pegs before the bike rolls. You have to be consistent or the test is an abort. You wit me on diss or watt?

Don't be crying you lost your clock you shut her down for days on end. That's all I'm saying. If you do not stay in L/3, grn, abort any more posts. We understand the work here? No guessing. Do the work or sit down. "No investigation, no write to type." Fastand? The setting here is L the fuck 3!

Holdstill, grn

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What I've noticed about the bike is the buzzing in the handlebars. Those were eliminated with a book sync on the last 14. The deal with the R bike is how the idle is going to react to it? Any high miler R's that have been serviced and had a proper book inspection?

Andiss is to no one in particular, but reRead the question over again. It is asking for anyone that services their bike properly, has done a sync, found the bike idles smoother, the buzz is gone, etc. Thanks.

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@Hub: the TBs are reinstalled but I'm waiting for the ambient temp to get in the 50s.

I'll check in when the synch is done.

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The trick hag, was to close all the low screws first. Now sync both main shafts using that spring'd center adjust screw. Add the other two sync hoses. Open all 4 lows to 1/2 turn and resync all 4 lows to each other. What the book is saying is, 'See all the hose levels? Use all 5 screws to equal them out off of each other where they stand now.'

And don't forget to cork the PAIR hose when syncing.

Grn, I didn't even sag the bike yet. We are nowhere near close. You need someone to take a measurement. I haven't grabbed the old lady yet to read off the numbers. After that, now feel the difference = Plush!!

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Is the bike stumbling @ 2:14 is under 2,000 rpm, cleans up about 2:17? Stumbleana at the bottom?

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Are you saying 'normal' in L-3 or is this in F-0 or F-1 too?

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Conference: ZX-14 Conference
Forum: Ride Reports
Thread: 68.9 Mile Impression of the R-ABSkid
User: Grn14
Time: 11:05am
Message:
F-1.

Oh, F-1 is it? So the stumble is in all codes sounds like? That's why I rather you not contribute to this thread. One, you are not in L-3. We are going to be in L-3 for thousands of miles. Not in and out of the watta like a mainlander, hawlie. You are not being constant and even if you were, open your own thread and talk about it. You are fucking up this thread being in L-3 only for all testing.

If you can't say in L-3 for the next 5 thousand miles or so... Bow out. Thank you. Christ you could fuck up a wet dream.

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"That's why I rather you not contribute to this thread. One, you are not in L-3"...f'n right I'm not...don't intend to be either...so yeah...I CAN'T contribute to YOUR thread.....you finally hit the nail on the head...somehow.

I think you're the ONLY guy that's never been out of L3 since you've had your bike....best to keep it that way....much safer for you.L3

I'm honored that you feel compelled to repost my responses....The fact is...I don't want to be associated with your posts.You still think it's about you.It's not.Ya got thrown outta some other site...landed back here...tryin to start yer shit all over again....these guys aren't stupid...

"If you can't say in L-3 for the next 5 thousand miles or so... Bow out"....

Does THIS look like a moped to you?L3...geez.
This begs the question...WHY did you even buy a bike like this?It's too much for you obviously.You could 'maybe' get a good resale price for it...if ya haven't f'ed it off too bad so far.That pic of the Rock Store...your bike...not too promising gotta say.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/29/2013 @ 10:46 PM *

LOL, Greenie, I gotta bust your balls or it's no fun here.

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Well greenie, I bought the bike to study the lag sessions and the ABS moves for diagnostic purposes is the hobby. I'm using low power mode for break in. Since I'm not going to exceed the break in procedure this time, I'm experimenting in low rpm, WOT loads, and stay under the rpm range. Loopeehole.

I would probably knock if in F mode doing these moves. I'm not about to find out. I'll have to dissay whatever, but WOT does not look 'promising' is your compression down the road. Since NOLTT, I have to smear it INN YEAR FACE about me signing that bike off to the next owner with 220 psi under h/er.

Slow that says: You with your bike and air cleaner neglect, me with about the same miles, give or take who gives a shit. Lets we sit and beat the bike our own way. Now I put the bike back together and we take an unknown person here and just go thru the traps and see who's bike pee forum'did one over the other.

See how eyes pee scent bike is piss all over yours is? Down the road that is, greenie. It's all about the wallet staying in the back pocket vs. NEGLECT. I'm not pointing fingers, I'm using a stock bike vs. ain't yo bee's wax watt die due wit me bike. Didieven don't give two shits wot chew dog do wit year bike.

I'm just saying that down the road, someone is going to have an ABS or a Skidvicious variable and home he here might zone inn on the ant seer... while I seer some members to have a seat. They need to show me how much they skidida bike, made flat the tire circumference, let alone Ivan up the bike... And that reminds me.

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Good luck there Hub...hope ya find what yer looking for.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/30/2013 @ 8:30 AM *

Thanks, Grn.

OK, sheesh, I get to breath a little. IDK, you'd thunk I could open a thread and ask a simple question and already I have 3 pages of told you so, but whathell, NOLTT.

Anyway, I need to get off me butt and tube up the throttle bodies, like now! I'd like to see where they set this and I shoulda plugged her in the day I lit it off. I'm after that buzz in the bars. Even though you think it goes away, it harmonics out of that range but is still present.

Cars have it down to a science. There are frequencies flying all under and over the car. You can simulate it and pinpoint it is how they narrowedown the harmonics of the car. But a bike? I know right now this buzz is a crispy one, but I have to run a smoother engine like the other one. They both have/had the same frequency/harmonic/some vibration coming off it.

I assumed a sync was in order. Took the buzz out of the bars. I'll be chasing this too. So far, I can't rely on any input at this point. My question was sort of answered in another mode, but the poster deleted it??? For WATT reason I don't really giva.

You have two variables to play with. The one sensor that really does not really cause the effect might seem to be out of the loop. The other is the stumble might be in every mode and if that is the case, if that is watt someone at another site was mentioning before or after a sprocket change, and this change brought on this low rpm stumble???

Interesting. Then, I would assume this was present, but the rider now felt it with the sprocket move?

This is sort of how I have to connect the dots is thanks butt [out] no thanks. I got DISS... Eye Tink? Dare 4 Yiyam

INN'Da'ModeL-3

Oh look! FREEsh Fuel!

Back on Stumblicious is try the danishewirl twist

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@ 407 miles I get caught in the rain. I park the bike where I can see it. I'm about to sit down for breakfast, take my jacket off, sit down, look out the window and see it sprinkling. I'm up out my chair, leathers going back on, waitress comes over and I say I gotta go. She says to come again, bye!

Here the road is nice and shinny. I turn on the main drag and now rev it a few times, dump the clutch and hammer away! I get the 'typical hidden stumble,' a da-da, cleans up and now, if I did that with the non-tone wheel bike, I would have left a strip down the road. All this bike did was accelerate away as if a dry road. Not one slip of the tire.

This was L-3 mind you. If maybe in F-1 it would have chattered a tiny bit more, I don't know? By the time I got home, it was clear before it really came down later. So there was no braking on the wet... Neck time.

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Brock and Ricky ran a brand new 2012 zx14R on the dyno....guess what?The first pull was right around 195 or so...the SECOND pull...200.They weren't wasting time trying to 'break-in' that bike in L3....so much for your 'thesis' about harming this motor by not staying in L3 for the first 1000 miles...and strictly staying at the book rpms....hell..you didn't...warranty...VOID!

Now..git yer azz out there and show us some vids of your ABS stopping your machine...in the rain.From hwy speeds.And that KTRC...cornering and hammering...in the rain...and downshifting...the slipper action....IN THE RAIN .

And while yer at it...try driving in more than 4K....tell us how that buzz feels now?Full report...You keep this up....L3..you may NEVER get to 1000 miles this year

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/31/2013 @ 9:28 PM *

The fuck you slapping your lips about now, greenie? YOu need to pull on diss! Guess what? If you hung around dynos, you run her out about 4 times so you get hot read, not a false warm up read. You just had to flap your gums about nothing you know and I know very little of it. So again, I have to clean up your BS ideas about how to go about even finding a dyno number. Sheeze, IDK. Now, shut up, shit down, grab a danish.

For a guy that says he has a job, you sure do stay up all night and post like you're slow at work during the day... I mean really slow like they don't give a shit you work harder posting on line than work at some job. BS should be your new name. I sure wouldn't hire you to pull a check and typing out golly gee and IDK and Sheezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

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Vids Hubster...vids

Just LOOK at all these posts asking questions....I can't answer em...not most anyway...but you should be shining right about now....and here you sit....making suppositions about my job

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/1/2013 @ 8:51 AM *

Go to your vid greenie and listen to the 3:35 >>> stumble. See how he's ripping up the dirt, hits 'Stumbleana' then it cleans up within seconds? That is stumbleana break-in. Heavy load, low rpm. You have to be in that stumble all the time to keep the rpm heavy but low. And that was the exact stumble I was talking about. No mention of this even in the first year R. That's the kskideployed that not too many R owners mention about, i.e., being in that zone way too many times so far.

I'm figuring out my own answers thank you. This is where I need to see that stumble in the AFR meter. Gonna be interesting to watch. That sure sounds like fuel is being played with. Feels like it too. It might be all 3 at once or 1 or 2 is the question? So when the brochure said something like, 'we use 3 parameters, fuel/sub/ign in kskid, where other manufacturers use a 2 system kill of sub/ign only.'

And the only way to tell is use a fuel pressure gauge, the sub camera angle, and the tone wheel off the crank. That's the work. So if you could see the Brock video, see if you can catch the AFR on the screen, you can see if she limped rich or lean? And if she goes rich, your guess was right. You guess wrong, you still wind up with the absolute answer is the vids.

So for anyone to go discussing which way is now mute. Do the work or shut the fuck up! SheeeeezzzzzzzzzzzIS, you see how that works? Way too simple is you have the hindsight, the answer, now you gonna 'argue with the absolute?' Only an idiot questions the truth. Whomay that be?

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/2/2013 @ 6:44 AM *

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If anyone has ever come up on a set of V taillights, it is as distinct as the 14 in any position. I believe this is the second time I came upon the same 14 rider same freeway, same area. We waved. I was just coming out of splitting lanes. I saw that V and nothing else. Sped up to him. I mean, in L-3 still gets the job done.

If you want to test a bike's maneuverability, acceleration prowess, try lane splitting. If you see a hole closing in, R it! If you like to hear the bark nasty off the door panels, R U missing it! If you have some shitty mirrors when merging, snort the white line till the bitter end is find anything that resembles a dot in that mirror, U R Safe to Merge.

The purge is the bliss that you miss. I whip the shit up and smack it off is the chop. Those subs close a whole hell of a lot different. Just a totally different air assist is all I can say. Compliments the neck change. No shit, they are dialing the subs in on lift a lot better.

Killer lane splitter. I would never attempt this on the ape, in fact, any other bike. I'd get crushed. Handling is superb in the tight straight up. Needed more plush at both ends. Ah!

I had a question with the brakes but never mind. Engineering has to trickledown a mainline switch, or replot the liquid brakes. The squat-away and then the dive for the brakes has changed. I'm asking myself, where are the brakes to this thing? Pads are broken in. I don't hear a peep out of them. The discs are brand new out of a green package. I think I covered my X to Y's and then it hit me.

I can't have a 14 front brake if not direct from master to caliper. You some of a... Hosay INN and Hose is me! What a waste. I lost the taste of the front brake. No more racing brake is me? Yeah, that splitting will do it to ya. Brought it right out she did. It was a pleasure spitting with you, R.

And did that hez show up? Man, WOT I was doing from the bottom to the next wolf pack doing the splits? Nada!

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660 miles. So I decided to run it in F-1. The bike's characteristic took on a smoother engine. I can still tell it has the slight vibration, but it should iron out on the first sync. For sure the power is slight. Nothing to write home about. If you were blindfolded, you'd barely notice the difference.

Is it faster than first gen? Oh yeah for sure, don't get me wrong. It's just that after so many mph, it acts more familiar to the older one. Going up a grade it had that different feel than the old 14. When you gas it, it's usually heading straight ahead.

You are making fast apex between cars? And when that thing darts ahead, you push/pull that bar, she makes you look like you know what you are doing. You wonder how you are going to get out this trajectory, you push bar and you cannot believe how much effort it takes to change direction.

That bar inputs seems like it's fighting you every second. But once you make a move? Effortless! Well, seems like it so far. And then there is the electronic buzz. Switching modes said I have a new buzz. Same kind of hard braking right up to the bitter end I hear this long buzzing and electronic for sure.

F-1 seems to be the most buzzy or busy. More sensitive being in a more powerful mode. Well, let me take that back. I couldn't tell the difference, but say it is more 'curvy,' like the ignition is there, but the curve is not going to be as full a curve as in F mode.

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"For sure the power is slight. Nothing to write home about. If you were blindfolded, you'd barely notice the difference.
"It's just that after so many mph, it acts more familiar to the older one"....you're RIDING her like the 'older one"...
." And then there is the electronic buzz. Switching modes said I have a new buzz. Same kind of hard braking right up to the bitter end I hear this long buzzing and electronic for sure".

I warned you....get out of L3...but NOOOOO...you had to make fun of my thoughts.NOW look what you've done...you've gone and fucked up yer motor.It'll never run right now...sync or NO sync.Oh well....what the fuck do I know anyway?;)Mine is runnin like a fuckin swiss watch....stronger than shit and WAY better than any 07 I had.

You got...maybe...one chance to get er back on track...that's....open er up in F-1 and work that friggen engine some.600+ miles...it might not be too late.

As for your steering assessment....methinks you got a faulty assembly job.Mine turns like a friggen razor...just thinking about turning TURNS mine.

L3 is NOT the 'break-in yer bike mode"....it's for emergency riding conditions ONLY.......That's it.It can't breathe right...it can't produce the torque right for a good break-in.It'll save ya from slippery azz conditions...but that's IT.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/11/2013 @ 1:37 PM *

BTW....did ya readjust yer chain?At say...500 miles or sooner?Your 'buzz' MIGHT be as simple as that my friend.She doesn't like sloppy chain slack.And these motors WILL stretch that chain periodically.Well more than yer 'older one'.While yer at it....drain that antique stuff ya call oil out,and get some new blood in there.And not THREE kinds this time....just one...Kawasaki Recommended oil.You know...the one(s) they say are SPECIFICALLY formulated for YOUR new Kawasaki Motorcycle....

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/11/2013 @ 1:59 PM *

I warned you....get out of L3...but NOOOOO...you had to make fun of my thoughts.

No pistons have changed. The timing curve has. What do rings know if they are in L3 or F1? That's the funny part.

NOW look what you've done...you've gone and fucked up yer motor.It'll never run right now...sync or NO sync.Oh well....what the fuck do I know anyway?;)

You don't. That's why I keep telling you to have a seat. This is way over your head it's that simple. Where are you going with what you think is mechanical?

Mine is runnin like a fuckin swiss watch....stronger than shit and WAY better than any 07 I had.

Mine sort of runs the same way.

You got...maybe...one chance to get er back on track...that's....open er up in F-1 and work that friggen engine some.600+ miles...it might not be too late.

You got? You've got to be kidding me?

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"Where are you going with what you think is mechanical?"
.....THIS is where I'm going...."Mine is runnin like a fuckin swiss watch....stronger than shit and WAY better than any 07 I had".

And HERE'S where yours is going......"Mine sort of runs the same way".Sort of?...WTF does THAT mean?You funny...me laughing.You Americans SO smart...you know more than Designer.He should quit and hire you,you fun(ny).

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 4/11/2013 @ 2:12 PM *

BTW....did ya readjust yer chain?

Seems like it's at the same place I had it on the other bike. That means 30k almost without a chain adjust or the shift is sketchy.

At say...500 miles or sooner?

I bet you have yet to lube your chain. And here I am with 600 miles and it's due again.

Your 'buzz' MIGHT be as simple as that my friend.She doesn't like sloppy chain slack.And these motors WILL stretch that chain periodically.Well more than yer 'older one'

Seems like you are wrong again. I break in chains that are on the sloppy side but shift like butter is that side. Show me the slack problem me complaining about shifting. I know the clutch rides up on the lever. No shifting problems so far. And if I miss a shift it's my sloppyness.

.While yer at it....drain that antique stuff ya call oil out,and get some new blood in there.And not THREE kinds this time....just one...Kawasaki Recommended oil.You know...the one(s) they say are SPECIFICALLY formulated for YOUR new Kawasaki Motorcycle...

Should I throw that 220 piss inn year eye video and that compression number? 228 is book. 27K+ miles and I bet yours would never come close. That too says break in numbers. You have no clue is why I need to buy a cushy ass pillow for you.

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Once again, greenie, I am already used to the bike? They have lots of HP on the shelf for this bike, but you pussies are more content with what you have. I on the other hand do not see a huge jump in power. An asspucker like yourself would.

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