Starting and Idle Impressions.

I coined the R, a.k.a., ABSkiddy 555 is watt I named it, writing this sentence down just now. So for project 555 for short, I was up late last night redesigning what I found by accident on the other air cleaner pod. There were 2 anchor points to stabilize the cans. One was solid as a rock. The other had a wobble to it. So I copied the stout side, left the one welding rod to keep it place, pulled the other off. I now have 3 anchor points holding the other pod from flopping around. Meguyveerated is more it looks a mess. But it works and who cares, right? They were rock solid as the ride carried on is my point. So, yes I'm missing the bladder effect with ram and the aerodynamics as well. If it feels unstable at cough-cough speeds, I'll plop on some weight with the nose and stabilize it some. But for now, all seems fine.

Now mind you, I have less than 70 miles under my ears and under my rear end feelers. So I'll start out with the bike starting up. If it was deja'vu all over again, it's how this R starts. I'm going to review back and forth about both gens. My beloved '06 would wheelie down an incline it was that brutal of a throttle tune.

My '08 had 1 more HP gain was the brochure, but for sure, the '06 and '08 were two different animals. Each had a matched injector to ECU configuration. I missed the last gen-1 family being, the '09/10 series and those updates that came to an end to the 14 series. Intro the R series for 20012. So ends the first gen family of the 14 family. I learned plenty off both bikes, and it is more or less a hobby. No place to go as to watt I've found out. Useless trivia is all.

That is why I've had the R for a few weeks and have slowly pieced things together to it. I've taken off as much as possible once again. Today was the first shakedown. I'm just trying to work you up to that starting up issue and riding off into the first brake and break-in round.

As the days tumbled by, the R needing a start up or two for some electrical work, it lit off like the '08. Not one hesitation. To me, that says sync'd to a gnats ass. And as I walk thru this new gen w/out an idle cable, I can hear it two step. Or watched the tach needle step down to a controlled idle. Has to be one of them inputs feeding and now without the idle cable to come back once and idle. See that move? Beats me? Something is going on. Now remember, I'm about to be knocking on the ABSkidoors is why I took the step upgrading to the R. WATTie wenthru with both bikes and that mess'oh'wires, oh, I see myself starting all over again with this bike too.

But not so fast will be the swap. There is a lot to get used to on this bike. The starting and now this 2-step back to idle is kind of interesting. Right now, I don't want to lose that setup. So between the instant start up, there is no way I could come close to matching that electronics with a cable style... Che-w0w-WOW this is nice.

I'm about to have the same feeling that I could care less if I ever see a carb again. This non-cable I was hesitant about, I'm beginning to thing I could care less if I ever see an idle cable ever again! Yeah, [if only] aprilia could idle this well being cableless and all too. I think we have a winner is it all starts here.

Impression 2-2 follow...

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The Throttle Response and engine performance.

Again, I kept it under 4k if not a burst to 5K. But what I could tell was a non-delay. Felt like no sub was in the way playing with the air. Well, enough for right now at this low an rpm. I have no issues with the response at the moment.

Power deliver between bikes is a mild step up from the gen-1. Would the R take out a 14? Yes, and it would be pretty close. Again, this is just the bottom end squirt talking.

I could hear the mechanical noize, ala classic Z1 cut gears which was fine. However, upon a brisk throttle response, there is a unique air noise that is different than the 14. I can hear the note being somewhat not in character with the 14's note. So different, I can't tell if it's that much long rod making the difference, or I just so happen to have the shop manual and sat down with it on the porcelain crown.

As I was flipping thru the pages, I happened to notice the staggered velocity stacks. In the drawing, they look like these are being used, whereas the first gen did not. So that kind of caught me thinking what is that intake pounding? The large pods being right under the mirrors are much closer than the intake nose in front. That slight intake noise sure is different I gotta say.

Part of the performance is that transmission. Is it better? Yes and no. Is it as smooth shifting as the engine? Yes if you get it right. Then, all of a sudden we are out on some open road so we can go thru the gears. I begin the downshifting the 14 is used to, then all of a sudden, left hand meets and greets the anti-chatter housing. I'm right at that raggedge of pulling plate loose and can follow the ramp system. Not fun. I'd huddle the engineers and resolve this. I doubt they can.

See, my guess is, once you unload the clutch, the ramp is free to unwind with it? I can then feel it reengage? Kind of annoying being there: is my normal shift window. I think I'll have to adapt to this new basket move. Speaking about the trans, there is no way to eliminate the clunk to 1st. Why? Because 1st gear is the biggest gear. Think about it. You hook a shaft in the middle to do some sort of work. Tie a rope to the shaft. Try turning a small wheel to move a heavy object up with the rope in the middle, some wheel at the end of the shaft. Now use a large wheel to lift a large object. See how easier it is to move something with a large fulcrum point than with a short stick to move a boulder? So yes, same old clunk to 1st for both gens.

Other than the anti-chatter back wheel design at the lever, the unique noise that is pleasing to the ear for those gear head types that like that end: rather than hearing the exhaust note. She is all that and sure does a number someone coming up on you, sans the R being turbo'd or geared lower... Boo-Bye!

My kind of bike.

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Electrics and Handling

WATT can I say. I bought this bike to go ECU'inn? One more time knocking on the door. I have yet to cause a code into memory. I have plenty of time to hobby a this and a that. I'm taking a different approach to the electrics. What has changed is the dash for this segment. There is more data to read with the mode settings for K-skid and ABS to be displayed. We see this change as the tach and speedo become smaller.

Daytime display in the shade or shadow? Horrible! Panasonic has a light sensor for their flat screen. You put something in the way, it can tell a shadow has entered the beam and reacts to it. Cough, do you need to read the display every other second?

I don't know, but when in the correct sunlight, the display shows itself back again. I'm going out to check the headlight aim later tonight. I'll also see how well the new meters perform at night? I like the mode switch. Wasn't a fan of the trip and mode rubber titty nipple entries. The mode switch is a big plus.

Handling is going to be hard to explain. Well, maybe not. Whatever change they made, it caused the bike to handle a hundred and eight degrees opposite of the 14. The 14's handling was zero, negative push at the bars. It was like power steering you move straight ahead. If you wanted to turn, you made a little arm movement to bring her around the bend.

The first thing I noticed with the R was, the power steering was gone. You have to keep tilling the bars and like I said, this is where I have to adapt to the bike's quirks. It's not that it's annoying like the clutch, but rather a getting used to.

And when I began getting used to some of the idio's [yncrasy] of the bike, I'll begin to enjoy why they changed the frame. The 180 twist was felt when I traversed one turn. I hit power steering in the turn. That's the Deal! To me, it seemed more effortless is the pull of the bar. The pulling is staying upright. The relax is kinked over.

Now, does it snap back up to neutral like the 14? That I haven't found out yet. I think they may have worked on that? So far so good.

Conclusion:

1. Handling improved over the 14.
2. Power improved over the 14.
3. Smoothness of engine is still up in the air. I need to maintain a 5k cruise to know if this baby will surpass Mule2's smoothness.
4. Shifting is no where near as smooth as the wheel hopper behind the fibers and steels is the R.
5. Engine note is, I gotta tell you about someone hooking up a new 2012 on a dyno before everyone got theirs. WOT a sound that made over the 14. You could just tell there was something there. Ask 'The Hand' or what's her name that went 201mph.
6. Dash needs work. Liquid display is probably have the liquid change colors, but not in my lifetime.
7. Mikuni for getting it right the first time with the idle and with the sub moves.
8. Kawasaki for replacing the 'top model' and keeping the game going with the HP wars.
9. Because if you don't?
10. Cash IS Waiting for the next HP Bump you don't make it 4 in a row. 3 is the charm, but you place a lot of charms around a bracelet, correct? She IThen, I'm trying to catch up with that 72 year old guy. Looking for the nextop model is me.

I think the brand came thru with a 2+2?

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They changed the steering angle for one.

That I knew. The only way would be to reset that cast at the front of the frame. Really, they are two unique feels. I felt the difference again tonight. Very different. Very relaxing. Very interesting ride.

According to their specs.She's longer...for two.Not by much...but enough.

Probably for launch, more like for handling is my guess? Kind of a two bird kill.

The springs in the forks respond higher up in the tubes and travel.That may be what you're feeling about having to steer.

Doubt it, Grn. I couldn't slosh the wine out of the glass on top of the tank. I wasn't that leaned over. Doesn't take much but a few degrees over to tell who steers and who is having issues. This bike seems to plant the wheel better. I'm not taking anything away from the 14's frame. It's unique in it's own right. I will say the bike is setup stiff. I have yet to sag the bike. I know what you're saying though, Grn.

I'll say...the low speed steering is very much improved...and the higher stuff...it feels secure and responsive(to me).

Agree

I don't know what you are saying about the clutch?...Mine feels really good...both did.There is only one small spot fully pulled in where it feels like it has a 'tick' in it...but not pulling it in that far(which one wouldn't normally do)it doesn't show itself at all...And it doesn't do that but like once a ride anyway....I think it's something to do with the slipper mechanism myself...maybe 'setting' at first drive?IDK.Nothing worrisome at all.

You got it. Happens every once and awhile you get near that lever zone. Not a thing to worry about but find a way around it. The 14's trans was flawless and had plenty of misshifts with my sloppyness. Never a blip out of that box. Always found N. Always ran up the gears [when I did miss] so nothing needed attention. This is the Tiger Woods of Transmissions. Keeps coming back no matter the abuse.

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Hub the tranny gets smoother.The clutch lever glitch is only noticeable if you are not being aggressive and paying attention to the action.I have been told its a personality trait of a slipper clutch

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I have been told its a personality trait of a slipper clutch

Noted. I'm not concerned about it. If anything, I know it's working feeling it thru the lever. I doubt I can eliminate it thru aggression. It's sort of a sweep spot there so I can live with it.

I can say....this one's running better than my last one....it really is.Maybe just because it's new...IDK...but the motor definitely feels smoother and stronger.

This is a totally different bike. The steering is what I like the most. The power is a given with mother teapot. This new gen change at the neck: created a whole different feel to the input factor. The rear also has this arch, or the extension. Where I would come out of turn (freeway meaning) I felt like Grn as the bike would arch in a huge 'once you plant the bar and it stays there, you better send in more input or she hangs there' kind of handling.

That's what I think happened to Grn's crash on the first bike. He thru in the same input as the first gen, but this puppy is going to stay [planted] there unless you make it happen putting it there in the first place. The first gen was more forgiving. This one, you better be where you want to go and work the bars getting out of that. And it's subtle is the input too. Not manhandle the bars. More like power steering Body english is not going to happen as much as a good push/pull to the bars.

I'm liking the change. Two great feels you can tell right off. Power deliver has 6 more pounds of torque. So you layer that liner over the 114lbs. the first gen had. The power deliver is all over as usual. The 6th gear leave the cars in the mirror as a dot: you have nothing around you. That sort of torque.

The sound... Totally different pulses. Such a "Mean Intake Sound" it's a gearhead's stereo system [that bark] coming off the air cleaner cans. You hear those things come on, you know business is happening: the road ahead is a blur.

I have less than 200 miles on the bike, so I'm picking up all these nuances as I go.

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ahhhhhhh. Hubmeister got himself a 14r! Congrats, HUb!

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Thanks, Rook. I was fortunate enough to experience all gens so far. Owned an '06/08. Borrowed a 2010. Own a second gen 2013. So the progression reads, '06 was the best OA torque [subs removed] IMO. The '08 was a slight revision of the lag plates. The 2010 was better than the '08/09 as in [subtle] refinements.

And now with Grn explaining the R-gen seems to be better than the 2012? I have no doubt there were refinements handled between months as will the years '14/15. 2016 might bring on a needed HP wars with the Busa brand showing up with an entire new line.

And these idiots better step up the game in a big way so they don't look like the jerks having Busa being the king all these years. Ya hear me, mother teapot? Cash waiting for the next gen!

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My 07 modded 184 hp compared to my 2012 modded 205 hp, was more fun ,less predictable the 2012 is definitely faster but the 07 reminds me of my wife.If your wife is going thru menopause you will understand

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Congrats on the new machine Hub... What color?

I'm a less experienced rider but after riding the 14R for half an hour, I came up with the same conclusion more or less. I have never ridden 08-11 ZX-14's but was under the assumption that the 06-07 responded to the flies out mod the best. This would explain why I felt like my 06 (with the CT-Duals) pulled harder than the 14R. Hub said that from idle to 5 grands it would be close but even if the 14R is faster it lacks Darryle's wife drama LOL This is something I actually like about the 1st gen (especially 06-07). Again like Hub said the "14 R efined" is a more powerful but smoother MC. On second thought I think that Kawasaki was successful in the upgrade because as a new rider after a couple of months I was already in the garage with a #2 screwdriver. On the 14R I would feel less inclined to upgrade, although the cannons would have to go but beauty is in the eye...
I can see myself getting a 2016 in 2018, only wheels and exhausts for mods. It will be my long distance weapon.

* @Green & Hub: so you're guys are saying the front forks cannot be swapped without modifications?

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Thanks, Drag. It's whatever they are calling red this year? I'm using my spare silver '08 wheels. So the spacers and everything has the same clearances up front. That says full externals fit. Fork internals however might be different, but a parts book might point the way. If the tubes are the same part number, the internals swap out. Make sense? The rear looks the same is my guess too? I also pulled the screen off the filter element. She's not as smooth as the mule2 yet so little by little will I dial her in. Plus, the element came out sort of tight, but going back in she was too loose for my kind of seal. The older model was a perfect fit in and out.

Handling wise, this was a needed change. Big time difference how slowly I'm working the tires in. Besides, I'm at power L and ABS mode 3 for break in purposes. Oh and the 3 limes at the lower corner of the screen? I'm looking at that 2nd intake air pressure sensor and then connected the dots reading the owner's manual. This is the for that throttle load icon. The 3 limes disappear = Poor Economy Mode. Lift on the throttle, the icon comes back on.

Yeah, if I could see the freak'inn screen at times! If you are not riding in X position to the Y for the sun's raY's, the dash is mute. I love the tach/speedo color swap of old. Huge improvement to the eye's glance. At night, I could see the green dots I had to place on the clear lens to set the needle to. Now, the green dots disappear at night I don't need them.

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I'm VERY inclined to think they set the rings at the factory on the dyno when they run the final 'off the line' bike for testing/recording before shipping.I really don't truly believe the rings have to be set by the operator.

Grn, that's like saying, 'the factory is selling rocks so you ride it till it's a pile of dust, but we here just touched it so it's all broken'in here at the factory is the dust we just touched the surface.' So can you see there is no breaKING'in is mother teapot checked for parameters, noise, bad gearbox, ecu stumble, etc. Not some broken'in here you go.

It's called, I hit 220psi before I sold the bike. Book has peak psi at 228. I was 8 pounds off. That means I am going to try to break it in another way and match book. I have nothing to lose. I've never seen over 5k rpm yet. It's heavy loading this time, not spin the crap out of it. It's all about the rings, silly.

Fuck wit bigdick, diss is watt chew get. Find your favorite road sorta... Won't help. Unless....

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No...I think the forks and all are the same(except for the internals)....the angle was changed at the steering stem/frame...not the fork design(?)I think you could switch the forks/tripletree and all onto an earlier model....It all 'looks' the same to me anyway

Thanks, Drag. It's whatever they are calling red this year? I'm using my spare silver '08 wheels. So the spacers and everything has the same clearances up front. That says full externals fit. Fork internals however might be different, but a parts book might point the way. If the tubes are the same part number, the internals swap out. Make sense?

That's good news because it means that if you have a 1st generation, you can look for some used/cheaper 14R forks and drop a 30mm kit in it!

I'm sure they did something to the internal. The 14R feels more confident up front. As far as steering goes, I have an Ohlins FPK up front (25mm) and the 14R is still quicker to steer. Where my bike regain the edge is at highway speed but it's probably because of the 14R longer wheelbase and the fact that the front fork are fully extended at cruising speeds.

* Last updated by: dragking on 3/18/2013 @ 5:07 PM *

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Grn, I really don't have an answer for you. All I know is I used so many mixes of oils that were new and decades old, I still retained a high compression number. I have no answer for that short of me laughing at the marketing you are being barraged with. The next is how I beat crap out of it within 6 miles. Never warmed it up sitting in the drive. Took off before the oil light turned off, or the starter motor stops spinning, you thinking how close I've taken off near that scenario each and every time and the book says not to.

As long as the bike does not smoke upon start up, it says the rings are broken in. If you are not losing oil every few thousand miles or so, you have to replenish before an oil change, it says it wasn't too well broken in. If just for boo-ha-ha's I follow another style of break in, who is to say? I'll know in the first valve lash adjustment where the compression will be?

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/18/2013 @ 9:36 PM *

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The only changes Kawasaki made to the forks on the 2012/13 model was a change in spring rate to approx. 0.95 from 0.90 N/mm & a small adjustment in valving to suit the new spring rate. Not enough unless you weigh in at 95 kg with all your gear on imo. Otherwise these forks are unchanged except for the colour, I actually like the gold compared to the black.

Neil

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The only changes Kawasaki made to the forks on the 2012/13 model was a change in spring rate to approx. 0.95 from 0.90 N/mm & a small adjustment in valving to suit the new spring rate. Not enough unless you weigh in at 95 kg with all your gear on imo. Otherwise these forks are unchanged except for the colour, I actually like the gold compared to the black.

Good News for me because the new forks will take the Ohlins 30mm NIX kit! That's a 10 mm bump from previous generation. I'm thinking Ohlins FGRT 207 this fall for my B-day!

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With 368 miles now clocked, she embarrassed her first bike brand: heading down the canyon to the rock store. Maybe the bike is behind me, captured by that rock store photo guy showing that moment. Now for the strange part: low speed stumble.

Two things I can attest to. One, the one sensor should be sensing 'moving air' inside the intake bladder. My sensor's tip is dangling without movement until I begin to move again. I'm also trying to be the first one up the ramp so in general, I am in the robusthottle angle to make some moderate distance.

For the second part is the L/3 setting. It happened twice today. It might be because I was in city traffic and the more aggressive getaway may have triggered the L/3 into action mode? Here is seat of the pants feeling, because no one is mentioning this particular pronounced stumble.

Watt else occurred was braking over a cobblestone type of entrance to a small shopping center. At that stop sign, I could feel what might be an electrical c-h-a-t-t-e-r of the ABS? That too was a last second, well it's downhill but not that, oh I betterobusthe brake pedal now.

So watt I'm asking or maybe it's exposing itself is the stepping up of the throttle? I sure want to conserve the tires, but if that squirt away in L/3 caused the stumble so I wouldn't wheelie the front or break the tire loose, and it was on it that soon or it was the intake's 2nd sensor that needs air moving past it? Did it reset itself as it warmed up or moved back to outside temp being stopped at a light so this [exposed] sensor created the stumble?

And the only way to tell is to have you set your R to L/3, hammer the throttle from a dead stop: this side of a reckless ticket meaning. A little clutch, a little rpm and then lock the clutch up as if you are going to lay a tiny soft line of rubber down. Now, if L/3 can [stop you] from doing that... Pretty sweet setting.

Maybe I should put this 'accel away' on a scale . On a scale from 1 to 5, 5 being you smoked the tire up the on ramp, 1, you left the light with a 30 foot gap by the time you hit 2nd gear. 2 would be more like the level. So call the throttle about a robust-2, being, you gaped the lead car by 30 yards.

The stumble goes something like: Man, who mapped this guy from idle to about 2,500 and then cleans up like I don't have to change the spark plugs. It was that rich a stumble. Not nose dive I have no gas to keep the thing from moving forward. Something like that.

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Oh and btw, I really had to reset the suspension clicks. It was that harsh a ride with the stock setting. 2 clicks soft all the way around helped some. I wanted to make a move but not big, nor small I couldn't tell? So yeah, big change and didn't take much.

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did you do any adjusting to the preload front or back?Or just the screw adjusters?

No, one thing at a time. Just oil screw turns, no spring change.

If you jamb that rear brake down hard...

Dude, diss is were you and I part ways. Home he don't use the rears. WOT do I look like?... Don't answer that.

When I've been riding again for a while...I'll give her a good trial at skidding at speed.Maybe...probably.

You had your chance on the ice when you had your first R. This kind of testing is for the more skilled rider... Way above your level, grn. Just read the posts, sit back and watch.

And your settings with your KTRC and Power modes...I'll try those as well...just to see exactly what you're speaking of.

Make it fast.

Without those secondaries interfering....she opened up fine through those programmed areas.

Dude, you are not thinking this thru. I said I have a sensor that is not in its right place having a different [air] action set to it. Right now, I am not going to assume this is the same trigger set at mode L until I find out for myself. Like watch the sub stumble the bike, fuel, or ignition? See how I can't rely on here say is you assuming, not thinking things thru? Where are your 3 cameras to watch it all happen at the same time?

Go practice your skidding... Bring video... Or shut up! In other words. "No Investigation, No Right To Speak." From Mao's little red book. I don't make the rules, grn. I just follow them.

Setting 3 is the most severe event stopping setting.So yeah...you most likely activated your KTRC having it there and throttling as you did.

Dude, the more I accelerated, the more it should have triggered the event. Again, it cleared up not kept the power down.

I know you know this...just sayin Hell...I may be totally wrong in my understanding of this deal...IDK.I do know that it's quite sophisticated though,more than it appears.

That's why you are not that aggressive a rider to give that opinion. Even you say 'maybe' I'll skid?

I know with my other one...in first...with KTRC on 1...I gassed her nicely....but she stumbled noticeably at around 2K

Grn, in the canyon, it was hair pin turns and then dot that ass in the mirror. There was not one stumble, not one intervention... Get it yet? I said a sensor was sitting in the open air is the question. Once the air flow hits it, get it?

I also think your Low Power mode is mimicking the KTRC as well...it's not gonna allow that engine to bust into the high power area....not with that mapping.

Again, you have no clue how to hammer this bike or what?

Tryin to discern a KTRC activation in 'low power' mode...may not give you what you're trying to figure out?

Dude, it's confusing you, not me.

It may or may not be KTRC occurring at all...but only the mapping for Low Power going on as programmed.

Go take a ride guy. Come back when you have some miles under you. Maybe I'll listen. But for now, you are not even on the same page. Have a seat, fella.

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Unfortunately your frustration with not being able to understand what's happening with the KTRC and all is causing you to lash out at me over my comments...I get it.....I'm not trying to 'figure it out'....I know what it's doing.And why.

There is no lashing out on you, greenie. It's like we are all in a huddle, you come in the circle and yell calls you have no clue how the game is played. I'm just trying to save you from well, you know.

If you want your answer....turn your power mode to F....KTRC...OFF...now go and hammer yer bike.....come back and tell us all your results.

WATT approach I take to the bike, grn is my call. Is it OK I start on this end first? Thank You! Kind of like you said, think out of the box and reverse the engineering say?

BTW...if you choose to not apply rear brake with this abs system...how in the world can you ever figure out whether she'll skid or not

I used to own a GS with ABS, grn. This is not my first ABSweetie.

I've tried it....you'll have to find out on yer own in this one;)...this bike has a factory 'safe' feature that will kick in even if the KTRC is 'OFF"...so explain that one...Brock and Don got it figured....simple really.Now go fish;)

Oh, I think I'm going to find out a few steps more than camp toggle my ECU from the inside cha-ching and did I mention mine was all for free? And then I sent it back to myself and set it back to stock. Shipped it to me again.

That reminds me...

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Grn, I'm not suggesting you go out and risk the things I'm after.

See, greenie, if you read up, the brochure said, 'other manufacturers use ignition and sub/air cleaner doors. We us 3: fuel pressure/subs/ignition as the wheel deterrents.

Camera 1 = Crank window
Camera 2 = AFR Meter
Camera 3 = Sub shaft

Camera 4 = Front wheel
Camera 5 = Rear wheel

So front me two gopro's... My video tapes are played out I have to buy fresh. They skip and loose audio. I need two new batteries for the other two cameras. Costs money to R&D. Just think of the tire bill I'll be going thru every few thousand miles of letterip.

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You add the bike weight...

Right there says you are clueless. Wheel spin has nothing to do with weight.

You're gonna get a stumbling engine in KTRC3...just using throttle input.

You have no clue what the stumble feels like, at what event, what I did before the stumble, during, and after. I have a variable you have no clue about. You throw weights off your wheels and never adjust your cam chain like it never wears out is a chain... How can I rely on your input is I don't. You are wasting your time each time you post here. To me is I tell you your input is not valid. It has to show on video is your throttle input, your camera at however you think one of those are used, rather than a quick 3 slams you can't even tell it happens so fast. You feel the fuel or ign stumble but not a fly? Show me. You understand yet? You are in a huddle with 3 variables and have yet to see it in the ignition window, off the sub's shaft, or have a fuel pressure gauge off the fuel rail.

You are the typical runner upper. You need to shithe fuck down. Download your video and then come here and explain yourself.

You were saying that gassing her while she stumbled SHOULD have continued on acceleration...I'm only saying...no...not necessarily.

Here is where I say, "WATT Ever" we watchit happen. You gonna diagnose who is doing watt when there is a blip in the system?

There's way more happening with these settings than you(we)think.KTRC 3 is a (IMO)bad setting to try and put the puzzle together...

Well, tough shit on your part. I'm learning the hard way is my way... Do your thing, guy, I do mine. Now, how does a computer bike work? Start with the first step. If you can't begin the process, how do you expect me to listen to what you say, grn? We are not on the same page yet. From here I can tell you are clueless. This is far from your area of expertise. You know more about aftermarket parts, tires, things like that. Just because there's buttons on a steering wheel does not make one a formula one driver... You get my drift, spanKey.

Your next post is to walk the computer bike. Begin with the key turned on. What happens next and do not stop till it's done. And don't let me correct you either, because it runs in the absolute move like a 4 stroke engine.

it's TOO restrictive.It doesn't need to be slipping and sliding to activate under certain conditions.If you're trying to light up yer tires...and feel it working...you probably won't get there.It won't let you.

Greenie, I have video that is making the wheel break lose. I have video running so I can see input into the idea is the output.

Anyway...this is your impression thread...so I'll step off.

Yes, step away. When you have video of the back wheel spinning, the front in the air, then come back and give your impression. I'm not going by anyone's here-say without some sort of documenting of said areas.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/26/2013 @ 9:27 AM *

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RockStorePhotos | AM session 03/24/2013 | _DSC7043

I think if you press the photo again, the background blackens? See the guy at the top of the hill? He's just coming around the corner and can see his tail end? He was on my ass thru part of the snake, then a squirt at the downhill, I'm still braking from it.

She that handicap cutout? That's to give you HA head start. That's how squirtable this bike is. Torque up the wazzoo. And not one stumble out of it when that guy was messing with me in L/3. So don't go there about "Stumbleana" is her new name now.

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Grn, you are not thinking things out. That in motion tends to say in motion. That which stops tends to stop all at once is how much weight does it take to skid on ice?

So isn't it down to one moving, one stopping? The electrics does not care who weighs what. The telemetry is looking for a window change, not some fat ass getting on the back seat going for a ride with you.

Keep scoring all you want, silly. It's not about weight, nor tire print. It's all about that tone wheel, guy.

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