Shoot the plugs again or are we showing bent side electrodes about a gap going wide is melt the arm and it sinks down? We talking heat that plug with oil? Look at how wet those cylinder walls are. Those rings could not hold back oil if the OEM can do a better job. And that glass finish is what you want for max seal. So, the [cylinder] walls are not the problem.
I'm too off the wall thinking, we have chain whip and that wrinkles that cylinder a little. That makes the piston that more loose to let more oil in? Head gasket looks good on that end; as are the rest of the head gasket, looks like? The other 3 can take that much oil, but if #4 keeps blowing, I would think the wrinkle of the cam chain spooling up, would open up say we have that ratio ready to blow it wrinkles there with the extra spooling up.
See, how strange is the net, I have so much info with #3 holding piston and now it could not be the ignition/fuel/sequence/map is see how that is off the wall diagnosing? Here we go with I have to think it would be the spooling up of the crankcase to blow that much oil upstairs.
So, do we have oil on top of the OEM? Then the crankcase needs some relief plumbing. Then, where is the oil coming from if all 4 holes leak from the bottom up? Head gasket looks fine and undamaged, right? Valve guides would never push that much out or you could see the backside [of the intake] just oil soaked on that side only. Would not the exhaust valve oil do is fly out with the hot spent and burn it going out is a clean chamber free of oil?
Eliminate the intake guides. Eliminate the exhaust guide. Eliminate the head gasket. I have no clue of #4 letting loose is a goose chase I open my mouth taking a guess. I am back to finding; where the heck oil would come from? OK, off the wall we go is follow the trail.
I am going to compress the ring with air, meaning, take a leak down check. Did we clear [for argument sake] that variable, meaning, both OEM/Aftermarket leaked down to a 1~2% loss were both race ready? Could I not reverse the pressure of the rings expanding against the wall the other way? Say [for argument sake] the crankcase would act the leak down pressure tester, say, from the bottom up? Spool me fool me I have to think this way is to pressure lock the oil control ring from the back. This loads a lot of oil between the wave washer(s) of said 3 piece ring(s).
Compression ring I would think, has zero air pressure against it if the oil control ring is pressurized. So, as if to seal that one is to forgetoeboutit. Next ring down is filled with that air gap between both ring grooves. Are they not filled with oil, you would think? So, there is a partial hydraulic lock of the middle [oil scraper] ring. That 2nd ring is like a knife edge on one side to scrape the oil one way. Now it is running the opposite with oil under the V shape, being one side of the cut ring.
Now you have zero pressure, the piston stops at TDC/BDC. This relaxes the ring pressure, no? So with every TDC/BDC she makes, it makes that much pumping of that tiny oil caught in the up side coming up is the relax coming down before all this pressure/vacuum draws out whatever oil is under the ring is now over the other side and in the cylinder chamber. Make sense(?), you send a pressure sensor in the crank case to see what the spool is doing there?
I'm no spool master. I'm just asking the spool masters the question is how did that oil get up there if I say rings you say, ____________________-Fill in the blank(s). One more time. Do we have oil spooled in the cylinder chamber with the OEM in play? Then if the answer is yes, you better come up with a better answer the same goes for the OEM rings and that spool contest you balance the bottom to the top or go POP!
I am on the aftermarket side of those pistons, Bad. I have to know I step out of the way if you say the OEM is dry as a bone. If it has a hint of oil spooled in, then show me how the aftermarket brand failed if the OEM cannot keep the oil out. Make sense? WOT Say the Spoolers?
* Last updated by: Hub on 3/24/2010 @ 9:04 AM *
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