OK, look at the valve pockets. Notice how they lose the minimum .150" of thickness when you move closer to the cutout and looks like both begin their burn-down at the shallow cutout by the [same] valve pocket recess.

And if we are talking the same piston out of the same cylinder, then that ignition is way off as opposed to the others surviving. So since the ignition is sequential, you have to get something like Ridge's software, step the fuel/ignition up/down because who knows how off that one cylinder map is?

It keeps eating pistons in that one bank, right? I'm guessing now.

i'm way passed all that hub .. it keeps eating #4 but its done it with 3 differant ecu's 3 differant motors.. 2 diffeant wiring harness 3 differant throttle bodies . with -6 degree of timing pulled running c16 on 9lbs of boost and for 2 years it didn't eat anything .. i taught i had the bug zapped .. then 1 day out of the blue it fried #4.

its fried every time on the same spot #4 on the intake valve closes to the came chain ..

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 3/23/2010 @ 7:51 PM *

i'm way passed all that hub

Sell me an '06 ECU with harness or if not, rent me the ECU for a one half hour outing is all I need.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/23/2010 @ 9:01 PM *

Great photos, sad about the pistons , sounds like your over it !!. hope the latest N0 4 is up to the challenge.

i have 2 ecu's and 2 wiring harness .. its fried #4 with the coil harness wire unmolested and also being tapped for a wide-band.. stick coils have been switched .. hub i've changed everything and several times with stuff from 08's to 06's from 4 different bikes with no effect on out come ..

i'm sold that's its the turbo .. that forced air into the ram air tube by the clutch is crossing and giving #4 more air .. i have tried a stock filter .then a stock filter with paper removed .. i never got to try the blocking off of half of the filter as a deflector from #4 ..but i'm sure it would have failed also ..

but what i don't understand for 2 years it held up perfect from 6lbs of boost to 14lbs of boost . and then out of the blue it pops #4 and keeps popping it .. but yet in stock form it runs perfect and has no issues .. using the same parts

i will just never have faith in the bike with a turbo mounted on it .

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 3/24/2010 @ 6:53 AM *

Shoot the plugs again or are we showing bent side electrodes about a gap going wide is melt the arm and it sinks down? We talking heat that plug with oil? Look at how wet those cylinder walls are. Those rings could not hold back oil if the OEM can do a better job. And that glass finish is what you want for max seal. So, the [cylinder] walls are not the problem.

I'm too off the wall thinking, we have chain whip and that wrinkles that cylinder a little. That makes the piston that more loose to let more oil in? Head gasket looks good on that end; as are the rest of the head gasket, looks like? The other 3 can take that much oil, but if #4 keeps blowing, I would think the wrinkle of the cam chain spooling up, would open up say we have that ratio ready to blow it wrinkles there with the extra spooling up.

See, how strange is the net, I have so much info with #3 holding piston and now it could not be the ignition/fuel/sequence/map is see how that is off the wall diagnosing? Here we go with I have to think it would be the spooling up of the crankcase to blow that much oil upstairs.

So, do we have oil on top of the OEM? Then the crankcase needs some relief plumbing. Then, where is the oil coming from if all 4 holes leak from the bottom up? Head gasket looks fine and undamaged, right? Valve guides would never push that much out or you could see the backside [of the intake] just oil soaked on that side only. Would not the exhaust valve oil do is fly out with the hot spent and burn it going out is a clean chamber free of oil?

Eliminate the intake guides. Eliminate the exhaust guide. Eliminate the head gasket. I have no clue of #4 letting loose is a goose chase I open my mouth taking a guess. I am back to finding; where the heck oil would come from? OK, off the wall we go is follow the trail.

I am going to compress the ring with air, meaning, take a leak down check. Did we clear [for argument sake] that variable, meaning, both OEM/Aftermarket leaked down to a 1~2% loss were both race ready? Could I not reverse the pressure of the rings expanding against the wall the other way? Say [for argument sake] the crankcase would act the leak down pressure tester, say, from the bottom up? Spool me fool me I have to think this way is to pressure lock the oil control ring from the back. This loads a lot of oil between the wave washer(s) of said 3 piece ring(s).

Compression ring I would think, has zero air pressure against it if the oil control ring is pressurized. So, as if to seal that one is to forgetoeboutit. Next ring down is filled with that air gap between both ring grooves. Are they not filled with oil, you would think? So, there is a partial hydraulic lock of the middle [oil scraper] ring. That 2nd ring is like a knife edge on one side to scrape the oil one way. Now it is running the opposite with oil under the V shape, being one side of the cut ring.

Now you have zero pressure, the piston stops at TDC/BDC. This relaxes the ring pressure, no? So with every TDC/BDC she makes, it makes that much pumping of that tiny oil caught in the up side coming up is the relax coming down before all this pressure/vacuum draws out whatever oil is under the ring is now over the other side and in the cylinder chamber. Make sense(?), you send a pressure sensor in the crank case to see what the spool is doing there?

I'm no spool master. I'm just asking the spool masters the question is how did that oil get up there if I say rings you say, ____________________-Fill in the blank(s). One more time. Do we have oil spooled in the cylinder chamber with the OEM in play? Then if the answer is yes, you better come up with a better answer the same goes for the OEM rings and that spool contest you balance the bottom to the top or go POP!

I am on the aftermarket side of those pistons, Bad. I have to know I step out of the way if you say the OEM is dry as a bone. If it has a hint of oil spooled in, then show me how the aftermarket brand failed if the OEM cannot keep the oil out. Make sense? WOT Say the Spoolers?

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/24/2010 @ 9:04 AM *

hub the last motor pic is the fresh motor that lasted 2 years .. the oil is w-d 40 which was used to clean carbon and just hasn't been air dryed before head installed ..

the OEM Pistons have never let oil up unless its fried the side wall of the piston.. or stuck rings

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 3/24/2010 @ 2:33 PM *

Off the wall we go again. Spool those cam chains on the one side. Intake opens faster than the other 3 is like twist the cam and maybe the intake lobe is lean going in to that one cylinder. You need to run a larger fpm-injector since you can only cut the map and that goes across the board. Say you had a kit-ECU you can change each cylinder map.

You either have a camera shadow or I messed the eye peel first time around. See that gouge in between 3-4 ring that seals both cylinder walls from each other? That could bleed oil into that cylinder being in hot/det, can lift that part of the head and start a burn looks like? Or was that burn during the det?

So, say 1-2-3 burn great. Number 4 keeps leaning out. You would have to like I said, raise the fuel rate size, leave the other 3 alone since they run well. Next way is dual-PC being you can run 3 of the same maps, but the 4th cylinder runs an over fat map on it's own.

hub ..there is a feature on the pc multi hub called cylinder trim.. you can add 5% of fuel to any cylinder or lean it 5%

done dat

read the plugs to see if it effected anything .. and yes it works .. so even with #4 richen 5% it still fried ..i have used 3 differant set of cams .. i have aftermarket cam springs .

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 3/24/2010 @ 6:58 PM *

i'm telling you theres no reason for it to be frying .. it just frys .and nobody can tell me why andi can't figure it out .. even with all the changes 1 by 1

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 3/24/2010 @ 7:03 PM *

Interesting to say the least.

i can load a pic of a piston for some reason

Is this your bike 1Bad? Kinda looked like your backyard there in the background.

yeap its my bike und nicht erkennst du deinen eigenen Hinterhof .. vielleicht auch tagsüber sieht es anders aus, Sie

Say, Bad...

Mi az a két kerék meghajtású f?nyíró szar doboz akkor hívjam fel, hogy ott hátul, félig borította tarp egy szar

yeap its my bike und nicht erkennst du deinen eigenen Hinterhof .. vielleicht auch tagsüber sieht es anders aus, Sie

Ich sah den Junk-und dachte an dich!

1Bad sez:

i will just never have faith in the bike with a turbo mounted on it .

Now you are finally starting to make some sense....we been tryin to tell you that all along...

* Last updated by: Kruz on 3/26/2010 @ 8:33 AM *

like i'm gonna listen to yall.. peoples who buy tunes over the phone.and never go to a race track

like i'm gonna listen to yall.. peoples who buy tunes over the phone.and never go to a race track

Jag vill bara veta House Inn du kommer att dra den pilen ur din röv är pojkar? Jag inn ska stå klar. Dis kanske stinker kin ont.

This lean out thing as it appears to be on the #4 cyl reminds me of supercharged car problems from way back. Any way seems to me like it must be the fuel rail have you tried an aftermarket one. I see they are made and probably for a reason. The stock one must be marginal and being on the outside could easily not get enough fuel at high demand times and a short run at high rpm's would probably melt a piston fast. Or the pump if stock might also combined with the rail might be marginal flow. Run the fuel pump and rail and injectors at full psi 43 I think and have 4 separate bottles see what the volume is. I just don't see any other reason for that much heat to melt pistons no individual cyl timing or whatever. Especially given its the same cyl every time.

the stock fuel rail actually flows better to the outside injectors than to the inside injectors .. this i tested .. no i'm not running a stock fuel pump ..at idle fuel pressure was @50lbs and on boost it was 100lbs .. the 1 time my fuel pump pop a plug in it (pump vented fuel in tank ) and fuel pressure dropped to 70lbs on boost ..it took out pistons 2 and 3 .. 1 and 4 can out fine a little clean but no damage ..

its fried #4 piston with as little as 4lbs of boost and a A/F of 11.0 before.. it just don't make no sense ..

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 3/28/2010 @ 8:46 AM *