So...

Some of the posts on Forums I've been reading are about ZX-14 engines that have kicked a rod or two.

For those that have had an engine go south or those that know of one or two that have had issues..

Have stockers failed, or is it primarily on engines that have been modded (ie. detonating from lean A/F, aggressive ignition timing or both)???

I am new to the ZX-14R (but have had Kawasakis' since 1971) and the bikes I've had from them have been more or less bulletproof.

Thanks.

* Last updated by: Vipered on 12/29/2014 @ 10:48 AM *

8lbs of boost did mine in....
Guess that doesn't apply here....

beast, how? #Rod out the case? Bent rod? Shattered piston? Detonation? Maybe it might apply. Only that numbered rod knows for sure... sort of... kind of. Depends on which rod.

I run mine significantly hard. So far she is flawless. That said I don't drag race her and second no engine is invincible to right hand thrashing hooliganism!!!

Beastie, at least you blew while exploiting it and trashing her right proper. I don't mind fixing something I broke in the heat of battle. I do however laoth fixing mistakes. If you remember on that fine day I did in a set of rims!

My 07 engine was totally stock when pistons hit valves.
Never found the cause due to the related cost of the tear down to investigate.
However it was determined it was not the CCT which made for an even bigger mystery.
Engine was replaced.

* Last updated by: yannih on 12/29/2014 @ 12:41 PM *

Have stockers failed, or is it primarily on engines that have been modded (ie. detonating from lean A/F, aggressive ignition timing or both)???

There really were not a lot of 14s that had this happen. I can recall about 5 in my forum going since 2008. Now beast would be #6.

On my bike Hub the head gasket let go and # 2 cylinder had Nikasil Damage. So new Nikasil and new turbo pistons and rods. Figured I might as well build it right if I was getting in there.

I remember that day, I was pouring a magic elixir on my rims when I answered the call to bring my motorcycle taxi. Then my bike went over to Rick's and we were both down and out. What a stupid summer!!!

* Last updated by: Wolfman on 12/29/2014 @ 2:39 PM *

NEVER AGAIN!!!

Thanks for the responses !!

However it was determined it was not the CCT which made for an even bigger mystery.Engine was replaced.

What I have heard is some bikes ended up with wrong bearings. The ones that fail do so no matter the maintenance program. Just saying,,,, Not YouR Fault !

The crankshaft has but one hole to oil all 4 of the con rod journals (IDK how this works )

The crank is supported by five bearings: two on the extreme ends, one in the center, and one bearing splitting the difference on either side of center.

The wasted oil from main bearings 2 & 4 run to big end bearings 1, 2, & 3, 4.

From a big end bearing viewpoint the lube is split between crank halves.

IGEN!

Hi Romans,
Every bike i have owned has been maintained better than i take care of myself.
Appreciate the "not you fault" call but after $5,000 to replace an engine that should never have packed up like that after only 36,000kms leaves a very sour taste in the mouth.
Plus I really wish I knew about your bearings suggestion at the time because if that was the case Kawasaki should have been involved in the resolution.

Anyway, thats water under the bridge now.
I have moved on.
The fact that I have persisted with the bike shows what an amazing piece of machinery I think these 14's are.

I guess I was just one of the very few unlucky ones...

* Last updated by: yannih on 12/29/2014 @ 11:09 PM *

Thanks, beast. Well, that blew that theory. So far I've collected in theory that is:

Conical crank cut: Wound up #3 was the common number? Flex? Like strongman bends a bar?: or crank.
Straight cut: Pulls up straight, but like taffy you twist the little tube.

Blows the theory why they changed crank gear angles?

Another guess. This is the downside of nik and that layer>> Detonation. N/A, turbo, SC, it makes no diff. My understanding is the most max compressing is at TDC, which would make sense you meet up with det and it wants to pull the studs out when it blows and expands, but it loosened the head gasket instead, right? Where did the nik peel off and begin to eat parts? My guess would be right at the top [squish] area. This knocks [pun] off and blows out chunks of that thin film. So to see if det was present @ TDC, was there nikasil layer missing off the finish right near the top? And at what position? Exhaust side? See if that theory works?

14s are no more bulletproof than any other bike on the road. They're built well, sure. They're built to take some abuse, sure. Sure, they're over engineered and all that stuff; everything is.

You can read about every make and model grenading engines, basically stock, well maintained etc. Sometimes it happens very early. Someone here had one throw a rod after 3k or 4k miles. Unfortunately crap like that just seems to happen from time to time. I'm sure sometimes it's maintenance, sometimes it's mods, and sometimes it just happens because it can.

You are right on Hub.... peeled off right near the top of cylinder head.

You are right on Hub.... right near the top

Oh shit, Vic and Danno think I'm a know it all, because I took a wild guess once you said some nik was missing.

I'm going to quote yannih... 'Vic, you are thinking too much into this.' It's more generic and could run with the best you bring to the table. Of all the bikes you've gone thru, any have minor glitches? Try to pick a problem with this bike.

So new Nikasil and new turbo pistons and rods. Figured I might as well build it right if I was getting in there

don't think for 1 second that's the cure all seen more built motors blow up than stock motors . I'm at the drag strips often

don't think for 1 second that's the cure all seen more built motors blow up than stock motors . I'm at the drag strips often

What you say makes sense from every point of view of high performance racing engines. From an engineering standpoint, it's impossible for aftermarket to produce the kind of reliability OEMs do. IMO custom built high-performance racing engine are ticking time bombs. At some point in engine performance profiles, hours of operation becomes more of factor than distance. Why is it that high level racing teams rebuild their engines periodically? They know it's just a matter of time before performance decreases and then long enough the thing grenades itself. It's not if it will happen, it's when (where else have we heard this...).

Hopefully Kaw will prove this with their H2. Hopefully we'll see H2s with 100k miles on them without significant overhauls. Maybe some with mild upgrades making more power than stock. I'm sure there will be heavily modified H2 engines as well. My guess is these will not hold up in the same manner the stock/near stock engines will.

* Last updated by: VicThing on 12/31/2014 @ 12:20 AM *

What you say makes sense from every point of view of high performance racing engines. From an engineering standpoint, it's impossible for aftermarket to produce the kind of reliability OEMs do. IMO custom built high-performance racing engine are ticking time bombs. At some point in engine performance profiles, hours of operation becomes more of factor than distance. Why is it that high level racing teams rebuild their engines periodically? They know it's just a matter of time before performance decreases and then long enough the thing grenades itself. It's not if it will happen, it's when (where else have we heard this...).

What kills me is all these drag race engine builders and their secret oil mods to make a engine last 5 seconds when I see road race bikes run minutes WOT on stock engines with no oil mods. MAYBE if these drag race guys would start and idle their bike before the water box and get heat in the motor the bikes would live longer instead of cranking it up for 30 seconds and drill it for 5 seconds then cut it off and get pushed back to a trailer.

Hey bad you're at 1400 posts. Just wait till you hit 1441. Lol. Warming. Before detonation is key! Ha you may have something here!!!

Warming. Before detonation is key!

no its warming before bearings seize to crankshaft due to oil viscosity

no its warming before bearings seize to crankshaft due to oil viscosity

Blatant idiot.

Petron additive in conjunction with <0W-20 oil is the answer.

Ollie told me you were stupid.

More hate.... Oh you oil spout buster you!

Clear: Morning half cap.
Ants: Top of the morning to you top cap.

Clear: Call me, insert.
Ants: I knew you liked my middle name.

Clear: So anyway are you going to the meeting?
Ants: I'm not a member.

Clear: I think you intersected into the wrong block.
Ants: Yeah, when you turned over for the last time I saw your armpit air color.

Clear: You can still stick around because we close as a circle can a circle be.
Ants: So where is your room mate?

Clear: This case buster did us in on the VicDeerEye think I better check out the parts.
Ants: And he thru me in here instead of you guessed it?

Clear: Yep. Blatant shittyit is non-union. Wada you expect?
Ants: You don't mean it got Danno'd?

Clear: No, a dyno, no need to add an oil leak.
Ants: So you mean we are good to go?

Clear: Loose as a goose I wish the other [webs] would join in and we be loose a goose light me up.
Ants: kNOw WOT, we are too far apart to seize up all cold star and lets hit the rev limiter!

Clear: How many squids are on line whacking that throttle thru the tunnels and you see a problem?
Ants: Well I gotta go. He's about to pull me off and I'm looking down at you Danno style. Buster better check my armpit this time.

* Last updated by: Hub on 12/31/2014 @ 9:46 PM *