I use my ZX-14R mostly for 1 hour to 3 hour rides on our gorgeous Vancouver Island roads, but I want to be able to go "touring" when the urge hits me.

I have a pair of Nelson Rigg saddlebags and tank/tail bag left over from my Yamaha R3 mini-tourer project (just to show that a 299 lb, 320cc, 60 MPG sportbike CAN be equipped to tour!).

Here's how I adapted them to make a cheap and quick touring solution - all done today between errands and family responsibilities for a total of $10 CDN (= $7.50 US).

I started with just the Nelson Rigg saddlebags (tailbag later), which look like this:

The 2 wide "straps" that join the 2 bags are actually velro-faced and fully adjustable for the distance between the bags, so they will fit virtually any bike. You normally throw these over your bike's rear seat, but a smarter idea is to use the key to unlatch the seat and remove it, and then place the straps over the exposed rear section of the bike, IF that is possible to do without running into either seat latches or seat rubber block supports. On my 2017 ZX-14R, it IS barely possible to find a spot where the straps narrowly avoid 3 "holes" into which 3 projections on the OEM seat fit. Here's the one and only position that "works" with threse particular bags which have good wide, sturdy straps:

If you look very carefully just barely to the left of the leftmost strap, you see a long narrow slot into which a seat latch fits. If you look just barely to the right of the rightmost strap, you see the 2 holes into which the seat pins insert. There is JUST enough clearance for the straps to fit without interfering with any of the 3 "holes". Plus, the straps manage to avoid every single rubber "blocK' that supports the seat above the frame!c (Lucky or what?)

Once you have the straps adjusted to the right length (which you do only ONCE and then leave them permanently in that velcro setting), you simply throw the bag assembly onto the exposed bike frame, align to make sure all 3 holes are visible, and then snap the seat back into its locked position. Now the bags are not only "mounted", they ate secured as well, since the locked seat prevents their undamaged removal.

Now these saddlebags can sometimes "sag" INward at the bottom when loaded up, getting close to my aftermarket exhaust mufflers. Since the mufflers are Delkevic carbon fiber mufflers, they NEVER get "hot". Just warm. Nevertheless, I don't want the bags swinging against the mufflers when I go over bumps, etc, so I needed a "bag separator". That looks like this U-shaped aluminum piece, that the local Metal Supermarket branch (look them up - VERY cool) made for me, in about an hour this morning, while I ran other errands. Incredibly, the man charged me a total - material and labour - of $10. (Yes, ten dollars - Canadian = $7.50 US):

As the photo implies, it mounts via the same 2 pre-existing holes in my Chinese fender eliminator that hold the license plate. I know this "works" because:

1. There is really no vertical "load" on this separator at all, and the only "loading" that ever occurs is the 2 saddlebags leaning slightly against it from opposite sides when the bags are full, and the occasional "bump" horizontal loading.

2. Plus, I have done this before, successfully, on the Yamaha R3, and hauled considerable stuff in the bags.

Plus, the separator goes on or off in minutes just by removing the license plate screws, so I can be "ready for a trip" in minutes of mounting work, inclusing both the separator and the bags.

When mounted to the bike, this is what the bike looks like in profile:

Note though that if you are running the OEM supersized bazooka mufflers, the fit might not be as good!

Here's the view from the rear:

The maximum width across the bags is 35 inches - not bad considering that the ZX-14R's butt is, uh, "a little wide". Again, things would be a bit (a LOT?) wider with the OEM mufflers.

The strap across the bike, between the 2 bags, below the taillight and signals, and above the license plate, is there to keep the bags pressed closely to the separator and to prevent sideways bag-flapping when I hit a bad bump. Yes, I know I need to find a cleaner strap for that job, and I have a library of Thule tiedown straps from which I will cut a just-right custom length that will look professional. This strap, like the 2 wide top straps, NEVER comes off the bags. The bags have carry handles and I just carry them both together to the hotel rooms since I travel with luggage more akin to a cowboy than to a safari hunter!

Note that when I am not touring, there is NOTHING on the bike related to these bags - no framing, no straps, nothing.

Hopefully, this might inspire someone else who only plans to tour occasionally and/or does not want to clutter up his/her ZX-14 with a permanent luggage rack or saddlebag frames or mounts, and/or does not want to spend several hundred dollars on a carrying solution. As I said above, I paid $10CDN for the separator, and about $150 or less for the Nelson Rigg bags. The bags come with rain covers too, but I also waterproofed them so the rain covers are not critical - just extra dryness insurance.

Jim G

p.s. The separator bar weighs only 0.66 lb.

The Nelson Rigg bags weigh a total of 5.1 lb.

The tailbag/tankbag, which easily atatches to the saddelbags (versus to the bike) adds 4.1 lb, if I need the additional capacity.

I have a very well thought out "travel kit" that emphasizes small size and light weight for EVERYTHING in the kit. The 2 saddlebags plus the tailbag will take me across the continent if I want.

Rook would be proud of me. :)

Jim G

* Last updated by: JimGnitecki on 5/2/2019 @ 9:45 PM *

Just make sure the plastic "wings" on the sides are not taking any weight from the straps or the mount tabs could break

Cruderudy: You raise a good point about those plastic body panels at the rear of the ZX-14R. My "transcontinental" traveling kit weighs a total of 20.7 lb, plus 5.1 lb for the bags = a total of 25.8 lb total, or 13 lb per side, or 6.5 lb per strap. is that too much for the plastic to handle? (I have not looked at how the various rear end parts are supported. Surely it is not just "tabs")

Jim G

* Last updated by: JimGnitecki on 5/3/2019 @ 5:37 PM *

I wouldn't put anything on my bike that rests on those side wings.

It's 26 lbs "static" 13 pulling on one end of the straps, and
13 pulling on the other end = 26 lbs total supported by the straps.
You would have to secure each side separately to get 13 lbs.

What happens when you hit a pot hole? what will the kinetic energy
transferred to the body work from the straps equal weigh wise? I guess depends on speed, depth
of pot hole. etc. But could you see it doubling the transferred weight or more?

Get something that supports the bags off the body work would be my choice.

i believe those plastic tabs have been known to break on a few who that have tried this setup. As Piken points out its the cyclic dynamic loading i would try to design for to be safe, those parts are expensive

I hear you guys. I'll try to figure out a solution. The setup worked great by the way on the Yamaha R3, but it was narrower and a different shape.

Jim GH

your solution is to fashion two support 'plates' shaped to the contour of the bags underneath.Run them forward. That'll keep any serious weight off the panels,but still sit on there flush.Long as that rear holder(the silver piece) is firm and won't move any,those should do the trick?Kinda like two spoons on either side there?If you can somehow connect those at the tips onto the forward cross strap.it just might work?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/3/2019 @ 9:32 PM *

grn14, Do you mean: add a support plate under each bag's bottomside, with each of those support plates being attached to the "separator bar"? That would transfer the weight to the fender eliminator, right? (Since the separator bar hangs off the license plate mount of the fender eliminator.

The fender eliminator IS 100% good thick steel (powder coated), and VERY rigid (I actually thought it was seriously overbuilt for its role). It is is held to the underside of the ZX-14R tail by 3 bolts, using the 3 OEM bolt holes, whose exact bolt size I don't recall, but they have 10mm heads on them. The separator bar and license plate are held to the fender eliminator by 2 bolts, again 10mm head size.

The outside edge, left or right side, of each bag is 17.5 inches from the centerline of the bike. Each bag is about 6 inches wide, so the center of mass of each bag is about 14.5 inches from the centerline of the bike. That's 14.5/12 = 1.2 feet.

Earlier, we determined that each bag, contents plus bag, can hit 13 lb.

So the bending moment exerted by each bag onto the bike is 1.2 feet x 13 lb = 15.6 ft lb.

Do you, and others following the discussion, think that this loading can be handled by the fender eliminator and its 3 mounting bolts?

I know of course that the effect on the bike's moment of inertia and handling will be fairly profound - notably worse than remounting the 2 OEM bazooka mufflers, but I can reluctantly accept that for TOURING purposes since there's no other practical way to carry luggage on a bike. But the structural strength questions are important. I'm glad that Piken and CRudeRudy raised the questions.

Jim G

A product sold by Givi in UK made for soft luggage is Givi TE4106.
Maybe Twisted Throttle could order it for you.

doubleD: That Givi product does look like it would take the load off the side plastics, and doesn't look too hard to install. I will see if I can find it and order it at a decent price from The UK direct, as the British Pound is really low right now due to Brexit(That's how I got my Delkevic exhaust at a great price). And shipping from UK to Canada is FAST. The exhaust was ordered Thursday morning and delivered Tuesday.

But, I'll need to make sure first that:
- These won't upset the mounting of the exhaust mufflers which mount to the same point on the bike
- The left side one is compatible with my center stand handle (which replaced a few OEM parts on that side of the bike)

Jim G

* Last updated by: JimGnitecki on 5/4/2019 @ 6:32 PM *

doubleD: Good news and abde news on the Givi TE4106, but more bad than good:

The kit is available shipped directly from Italy for 80 Euros = $120 Canadian shipped. That's cheap for saddlebag mounts for this bike. That's the good news.

The bad news is that not only would there be an extra "mod" needed to the center stand LIFT HANDLE, but there also appear to be no rear mount points for the Givi kit on my 2017 ZX-14R like the installation instruction sheet shows:

http://www.carpimoto.com/Images/Products/Pdf/TE4106.pdf

Taking the 3 mount points on each side (Point A, B, and C)one at a time:

"C' is no problem, with either OEM or my Delkevic aftermarket exhaust.

"B" would require machining or grinding the front (hidden) edge of the alloy center stand LIFT HANDLE to make room to slip the Givi front left side mount between the handle and the ZX-14R frame. Can be done, and probably not costly.

"A" is an apparent deal killer. On my 2017 ZX-14R, the mounting points for the Givi rear mount do not appear to exist! And, the seat comes down flush to the bodywork at that point also, leaving no space to insert the Givi mounting "plates". Although the website ads for the Givit kit say it will work with not only the ZZ1400 but also the ZX-14R 2012 "and on", there must be a difference in later model ZX-14R rear ends that eliminate the rear mount points that the Givi kit depends upon. :(

Back to the drawing board . . .

Anyone have any other ideas?

Jim G

Got another idea:

See those 3 bolts immediately to the rear of the passenger footpeg?

Maybe I could get a piece of standard 90 degree aluminum extrusion that could secure via holes in it for 2 or all 3 of those bolts, and run rearward 3/4 inch or so above the top edge of the Carbon Fiber muffler (which never gets hot on its exterior)?

The "horizontal" side of the angle aluminum extrusion would provide vertical support for the saddlebag.

The "vertical" side of the angle aluminum extrusion would prevent the bottom edge of the saddlebag from sagging inward towards the rear wheel.

The 90 degree angle would make the extrusion inherently stiff against bending under either the vertical or horizontal loads.

The saddlebag height could be adjusted via the bags' velcro cross-bike straps to keep any significant load at all off the bodywork by ensuring that the bottoms of the bags rest on the aluminum extrusions.

See any issues with this potential idea?

Jim G

I always thought those two rear foot peg mount screws were a good option.

wwww.emachineshop.com is your friend

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 5/5/2019 @ 11:58 AM *

Thanks, CrudeRudy! That's a very useful link.

Jim G

I started with the same Nelson/Rigg soft luggage on my 14r. But soon decided to get hard saddle bags and I used sw-motech brackets (for 06-11 models) which are plenty strong to use as leverage for my centerstand use. Some Guys use the passenger peg bracket for a hand hold to swing the Bike up on the centerstand.
The "A" location mounting point is on Givi's trunk mounting arm. So it appears to me it cannot be used as a stand alone unit.
Remember you are riding Kawasaki's Premium Flagship. Do you really want to use soft luggage on a $15,000 motorcycle?

* Last updated by: doubleD on 5/5/2019 @ 8:58 PM *

Multiple reasons for wanting to use the soft luggage:

- I own them already
- I have set up my touring kit to fit within them
- They are very lightweight
- The flexibility of the bags work to my advantage when packing
- They are visually much smaller than any hard bags - I don't like the look of a touring bike

But I AM open to other ideas.

Jim G

* Last updated by: JimGnitecki on 5/5/2019 @ 11:52 PM *

I also used the SW Motech, like DoubleD shows, with soft bags. I did not use the "anchor point" that you need to cut some plastic. With the other 3 anchor points (as I recall) it was plenty strong enough for fully loaded soft bags. My, now 85 year old dad on his 650 Ninja, and I rode to Calif and this set up worked great, as did the Corbin seat I bought from Double D... PLUS, it only takes 10 minutes to take the brackets on or off.

I might agree with DoubleD about the hard bags, only if I traveled alot.

ominousone

If the bags are resting on the bodywork, I guarantee that the mount tabs on the rear will break. Mine did using a similar bag mount as yours. I use the Blaze system from SW Motech. It uses a support bar that locks into a socket that bolts to the rear peg mount. Keeps the weight on the bar, not the plastic.

Mad

Funny thing, I had the left side rear panel fly off on the freeway after the mount tabs cracked. luckily it unplugged itself from the turn signal before it departed.

Mad

Sniff around our website maybe someone has a set laying around in their garage. Use Sw-Motech brackets for your soft luggage then remove it with its "Quick-Lock" system. Hard luggage allows for high velocity traveling :)
I don't want a 700lb touring Bike either. That's why I bought my Ninja for Sport touring. After riding through a few cloud bursts Hard Bags make sense. And the Trunk is a good place for my Helmet and tank bag when I walking through a Park.

Maddevill: I looked up the Blaze system and see how it works. Unfortunately:

- It requires using the Blaze bags because the bags have to have "channels" that accept the support rods, so I would not be able to use my existing bags

- In Canada, it costs $527 + 12% sales tax + shipping.

But, using those muffler mount bolts on each side of the ZX-14R, I can create a similar system using angle aluminum extrusions, that would control the bag against both downward force and movement, and inward movement. If I can make a proper sketch for the local Metal Supermarket, I could get a pair of angle aluminum extrusions, predrilled for the muffler mounting bolts, for probably under $20. So, unless someone suggests something easier/better, I will likely try that.

Jim G

doubleD, using the Sw-Motech brackets ALONE with my existing bags could indeed work, as I can understand how the top bar of the brackets would take the vertical load off the plastic body panels, and the remainder of the brackets would keep the bags from sagging inward. I have seen these advertised (without the matching bags) and the price was not bad as I recall.

I understand how the upper front and lower front mount points would work, but about those rear mounts:

- Do they depend on having the OEM fender on the bike? (Looks in your photo like they might for the lower of the 2 rear mounts might)

- Is there access to the upper rear mount points behind the plastic body panels without cutting the plastic body panels?

Is there a pdf instruction sheet somewhere on line that shows everything that needs to be done to mount them?

Jim G

SW-motech attaches across the rear on the fender, but you could fabricate something and use where your license plate bracket attaches.

DoubleD, that sounds good, because yes, I could easily fab a replacement rear mount that goes to the license plate mount.

Do you by chance have a model number for the SW-Motech kit involved? I am having trouble finding it on Google without a model number because there are so many variants of mounts.

Jim G