I'm not the best with words so fix me up if makes no sense and I will try and fix it.

haha, unfortunately, I have so little experience with tis that I will have a hard time telling what might need clarification. ...but come Spring, when I can start the bike and ride, I will be working hard at becoming an AutoTune expert. we'll have a How To thread on it with the combined knowledge of the zx14ninjaforums which at this point means You and Hub (Cblast and some of the newer members as well perhaps) and Dogo if he happens to pop in at an opportune moment.

Looks like we have step one starting with the last post. Obviously we are working with a small laptop here. Something that can be carried on the bike.

oh hell, I might just get everything set up as much as possible. Bare with me Romes, while I load the latest DJ software to my laptop. If anyone else is ready to proceed with the lesson, by all means GO!

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/2/2014 @ 6:42 PM *

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I will be working hard at becoming an AutoTune expert. we'll have a How To thread on it with the combined knowledge of the zx14ninjaforums

Sounds good Rook.

The subject can be huge but hopefully simple to read. Must contain sections.

AFR Table Section, built with you the rider on your bike. Need Not the same for everyone as most believe.

Fuel Cells at specific speeds. Where they are and knowing there location key to building better map

Slamming AFR #'s, how to prevent this from happening.

How to work with the what in right in front of you while learning the software, Not plug and play.

Auto Tune Trims, Should you trust what you see ?

02 Sampling 50 times a second with a cycling wrist does what ?

What % numbers do we place in the plus and Minus Fuel section and why.

Could be along one but made simple if you write it lol

Could be along one but made simple if you write it lol

it will still be a long one but if owners are really serious about using AutoTune, it will be the preeminent resource out there....LOL.. God knows there has not been much competition (no one seems to be able to find good info on how to use AT) in the past six years since AT became available. I remember reading about this product back in 2008 and saying to myself, "Now isn't that just the shiz???!" Turns out that i used it one time and I don't even know if I did it properly. Really did seem to smooth out the low end...but I have this feeling that there is a lot more to be untapped. ...so let's demystify this topic. I'm copying a link to this thread and starting the tut. TOOT!

I'll come back to this thread when I need guidance. I'll PM ya to let ya know I'm ready to proceed if you don't see this thread pop back up.

however, if anyone else is ready to move forward with this, please do. I'm watching.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/3/2014 @ 6:53 AM *

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Caps if your into teaching yourself how to do this I will help you from start to finish. The questions show interest. If you have interest You can make your own bike run better with your fuel at at your elevations perform better than any other. You will be the proof. Promise.
Change your plugs, new air filter(oil if you need to but not a must)then we play ? Must start with a clean slate or just wasting your time.

Plugs were done within the last 5K miles and I'll re-clean my filter (K&N) when I install the PC5.

I've been on this site for a few years, and I STILL don't speak Hubbish :-(

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I think WOT I'll do is a build a little stand with a roller for the rear tire to run on. To this roller I'll affix a hydraulic pump from a scrap excavator or hoe. Then I'll have a bucket full of used motor oil for the pump to circulate. On the output side of the pump I'll put a variable restriction... like a manual flow control valve.

This rig will simulate the load my butt places on the scooter rolling down the road. Now I can sample my exaust in each gear while the engine is fighting a load but not have to worry about stop signs.

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I hate to ruin this if it is one of your many jokes, hagrid....BUT...

OMG!!!! heheheheheheeeeeeee! are you serious! (no-?)

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I might do it. The two stage pump from our log splitter Dad and I built wouldve worked. It was from the tram circuit of a continuous miner.

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just make DAMN sure you have rollers with good bearings!! Maybe wheel bearings since those are made for turning fast. It would be interesting to play around with different amounts of resistance. You put your bike on first!

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Seriously that is doable

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if you have the tools and the knowhow. I'm sure a real dyno will cost you a couple thousand for just the roller platform. I'm not sure it would be a whole lot more accurate. Everyone knows there is not a whole lot of consistency between different dynos.

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This would be strictly for applying a load to the engine.

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1. Find sturdy wall, park the front wheel there.
2. Run a hose near the back wheel.
3. Shift to 4th gear.
4. Begin to run the water under the wheel.
5. Let the clutch out and hold your 250 rpm increments till redline.
6. Homehe dunt need no roller bearing, wood chopper popper, oh-oh wheel hop; I need a fatter friend on the back seat; more water pressure!

Seriously that is doable

Oh yeah, check that mappage the autotune is doing to my AFR!

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^^ keep video cam at ready. I see viral Youtube material here.

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For extra points Cody must be slipped over the end of the garden hose.

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You guys crack me up!

As someone who spent maybe 6 months playing the autotune game, with eventually quite awesome results - can I offer a suggestion.
1. If you want to really get "peak HP" etc out of the beast, autotune is probably too simple. Get a dyno or buy time and use the Woolich tools.
2. For the rest of us, who want to tune the bike to run well with our over size butts on them (except you Rook, lightweight!) in all kinds of places, autotune is the go.

The point Romans makes that is most important here is that the Autotune can only tune your fuel flow to actually achieve the AFR ratios in the tables. You can start with a single table, or go nuts and do per gear (emphasis on NUTS!)
I managed to get my Autotune to very accurately map my bike to a target AFR table and then to convert that to the ECU map using the woolich tools. It was the most frustrating, interesting, fun challenge I've had in many a while.

But the only AFR tuning I did was to kill that annoying decel pop and smooth out the flat spot around 3500-4100. If you can live with "seat of the pants" opinion about that, autotune is great. If you want a flat curve on a dyno - wrong gadget.

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For extra points Cody must be slipped over the end of the garden hose.

For the rest of us, who want to tune the bike to run well with our over size butts on them (except you Rook, lightweight!) in all kinds of places, autotune is the go.

Just a few over 200 here and I don't see getting a lot smaller and staying that way long. I like food too much.

You can start with a single table, or go nuts and do per gear (emphasis on NUTS!)

Sign me up! I want to figure everything out that there is to know.

I managed to get my Autotune to very accurately map my bike to a target AFR table and then to convert that to the ECU map using the woolich tools. It was the most frustrating, interesting, fun challenge I've had in many a while

PERFECT! ...as long as I can do something with it! Sounds like a great way to get a grasp of things before getting into more complex tuning.

All I did was run mine fro a couple months and accept the suggested fuel trims. seemed to work to smooth the low end power delivery (I think you referred to it as flat spot) but I never touched it after that.

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