the difference between the GPS map and a PC map. I understand that the TRE006 that is on my bike just tricks the puter into thinking it is in 6th gear so it has 6th gear advance in the lower gears. I also have an adjustable advancer set at 4 degrees and a slip on pipe. The bike (2008) runs lots better.
There is the TRE008 that needs a map and a PC3 or 5 that needs mapped so does one really need both? Will the PC3 or 5 mapped out do what the TRE will do and more?
I still live in the carbed world so all this is new to me. I have ridden my cuzs 2008 CBR1000 before and after a slip on and electronics AND damn what a difference there was.
Anyway I don't understand the need for both so please educate me.
Thanks == Bobby

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Possible overkill on that combo of tre and ignition advancer?I do believe the PCIII alters ONLY the fuel ratio-not timing.Dynojet has an ignition module out for the 14.I've got PCIII-No flies,4 degree ignition advance(muzzy) and NO tre.I can't imagine more performance without going to the ignition module and some hyper-mods(maybe Turbo or Nitrous?)Or perhaps a big bore kit or something like that?I have NO knowledge really when it comes to "real performance".I'm not sure what that would be.Mine runs good for basically "stock"(factory)?

the difference between the GPS map and a PC map.

GPS maps are in the digital. The default is the same type programming in the 1Atmo tables. If it is not reading an analog table, it reads the map scheduling that would cause the bike to sort of shut down and richen up as in a safe mixture as close to the analog. It [the ECU] still reads other analogs that are not shut down to a single math pattern like the; Pa would be set at 760 mmHg or the 1Atmo (the standard atmospheric pressure said another way is Pa, as mapped in the standard). Where the analog would read a PA range of 100 mmHg ~ 900 mmHg. Now you just read that fat/single digital 760mmhurtsay it goes nowhere is the 1Atmo signal. More or less the 02 of open loop. So, if you lost the vacuum suck off the intake air sensor, she flubber blubbers ever so off tune but still in semi-tune more or less.

I understand that the TRE006 that is on my bike just tricks the puter into thinking it is in 6th gear so it has 6th gear advance in the lower gears.

No. This goes right back to the 1Atmo one range signal. You are back again to a fat sluggish nothing to do with gear. How do you explain what I just got through explaining that your move is a 1Atmo move to a fat lag setting. 6 means rich. 6 means the lower the 10th in volts, the richer. The higher in 10ths like a 6 will now read a volt of 0.7v, where 1st gear would run a 3.0v fuel feed or less fuel at idle. Like you are on an idle circuit in the carb world, is think like that. You are now high volt lean and fat rich safe at the lower volt reading. No matter the gear, the engine could care less about your shift patterns. It just says I am here at this rpm and we are not at idle is now the jetting turns rich because the slight rich setting at the 1Atmo sorta defaults like any other sensor with their own [Pa or Tw] letters to represent numbers in the 1Atmo. This is to read what that certain sensor could not.
So, you more or less feel different maps playing different fuel/ign patterns when your sensor drops out of the analog loop. I feel that rich lag set coming in and the limp is on.

I also have an adjustable advancer set at 4 degrees and a slip on pipe. The bike (2008) runs lots better.

I am more in the research just to see if the advancer will act as a hack. I will wave it off with the off wave. Only other way is WOT every degree to see if the bike's front end lifts up, or feel it nose dive and then once again is the test shown the re-trigger box. This is to make the wave fall back in line is throw retard maps at it until it waves back to reading the right degrees [a it lowers rpms]. I hope not but I expect the same feel or the same hack like any other out of range sensor in the close electrical loop this bike plays on your mod.
Notice how I base my assfactor from the stock setting. I do not see the advantage in that lag and then it takes off sort of sends the same lean range or the lag like stumble which acts normal '06 flies still in bike is what it feels like to me.

There is the TRE008 that needs a map and a PC3 or 5 that needs mapped so does one really need both?

Technically, no. Because the code has got you covered you are 30 years down the road and Kawi does not make the part any longer is we no longer use fool injected is the evolution keeps moving, so will the car and the backup system to get you to drive that car 30 years down the road with barely a sensor working but the main ones needed to keep running is this is where you do not need the piggy if the manual says it sets the 1Atmo map and that is a wrap on the Pee See Data? Tree eight six come ah seven give me snake eyes... Bang against the backboard is a pair of tits. What the fukc do I do with a pair of tit piggy Tfi is that piggy went to market, dis little piggy stayed home.

Will the PC3 or 5 mapped out do what the TRE will do and more?

Oh yes, for sure. You are out of the loop like you wire up the injectors and you automatically feel that tone signal you in the loop is the ECU is on to that wave length. So, yes, you have a larger window like you have with the advancer. Then there is that tiny window and it takes that kind of piggy to make the injector run your numbers, not the default numbers = 1Atmo. So, yes, you are limited to the TRE being it sets you in the rich range. If there is this lag in the TRE you cannot remove or say it is still redundant at the bottom, then what can 'out do' the tre is to PC the lag. As far as the ignition maps; if that is possible is I do not have one to play with to know if you have an advancer function.
That means, would both the GPS and PC work together or fight one another? I do not know that angle. Seems a loss of power happens even if you use the PC. Others might bring that up or correct me on the PC/tre part.

I still live in the carbed world so all this is new to me. I have ridden my cuzs 2008 CBR1000 before and after a slip on and electronics AND damn what a difference there was.

Woaha what? What is a carb?
Anyway I don't understand the need for both so please educate me.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/20/2009 @ 5:38 AM *

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When your toys for the last 8 years have been a multitude of ZXR's you live in a carb world. This is where you use manual adjustments with floats, needles and jetting just in case you have a memory lapse of the past. :)

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Tree eight six come ah seven give me snake eyes... Bang against the backboard is a pair of tits. What the fukc do I do with a pair of tit piggy Tfi is that piggy went to market, dis little piggy stayed home.

Wow hub ......How do you do it.

TRE006A= Locked In Neu (safe mode) reisitor ohm # ? No fuel cut
TRE008= Locked In 6th, resistor ohm # ?, 6 gear mapping, also Faster opening flies.

So they say ?

* Last updated by: Romans on 4/20/2009 @ 2:17 PM *

I have no idea what I was thinkun but I have a TRE008 and not the 006.

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Wow hub ......How do you do it.

TRE006A= Locked In Neu (safe mode) reisitor ohm # ? No fuel cut
TRE008= Locked In 6th, resistor ohm # ?, 6 gear mapping, also Faster opening flies.

Disis how we do it. We do not tell you the answer. We show you the basics. Therefore, I will not tell you the tricks. The tricks are in the basics. So, If I tell you once and that is the basics, you keep answering your own questions as the basics say, yes they work, no they do not follow the practical.

So, I more or less, drag you through the long and drawn out abstract. Data means this works on any bike you own. Since the bikes wear carbs and carbs are basic theory to the practical, so is FI.

You want to know resistor numbers and that just represents a heat sink. So, that little porcelain center is more or less the porcelain heat range of a plug. The more porcelain, the colder the plug.

The more resistor, the colder the wire to ground. That means heat backs up to the fuse and begins to break the heat band and blows it. You are installing more of a 3 way variable to the GPS wire, [as stated in the manual].

There are no trick numbered resistors needed. Any 3 wire variable will cause an effect. So, more or less to make it simple and less confusing up to this point; any Tandy would be dandy. That is the guy who started Radio Shack, sold it and I can never remember but that Tandy name and the resistor game.

This was more for you than for me was to show the obvious; but I have a few resistors tied together to flow through the same code. I mean, the book states but does not in print, it says the 3 variables are a 'matter of fact,' you can close your eyes, pick a resistor(?)< Dare ya go! Pick a bunch of resistors and string them around the world and close them on the GPS wire, it will read the same code is don't chew know. Right dare on page is pick the page.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/20/2009 @ 7:45 PM *

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Mr. Hub sometimes I wish I knew what you were talking about and other times I am glad I am clueless. I am nothing but a backyard wrench that can look at pictures and see how it comes apart and goes back together but understanding why it works the way it does will elude me. I understand in your explanations you are trying to help with the how/why it works/don't work but I am of simple mind and have a hard enuf time figuring out how to get the plastic off.
I thank you for your effort to explain and many here probably understand but I am lost.
Thanks == Bobby

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It is a concept the same way you look at a photo and that part against another part makes one complete part is called a rolling 14.

I am just walking the same concept as to each step is the next part that fits the part to move the next part and that part moves in electricity or it is one molecule of a volt you watch walk down a wire to the next wire then the next wire.

I think Hog's and I were in the concept and he said he now looks at the electrics another way. We just had 'concept conversations' as I explain the steps to the concept.

If you and I were in the verbal back and forth, you would pick this up real quick. Over the net is cool, but the hands on and the pointing of parts and the backup of the concept is you bring in the 1Atmo and all that boils down to are just, diagnostics.

You wanna keep the bike, "In House" and not let it leave your sight. Can you imagine Rome's bike in the hands of someone else? So, what comes down to the abstract is the WHY, not the How it goes back together. When you know how the injector works, you have this slow jet/main jet concept to thing about and how they made a carb work in the, ElecTricks of it.

Now you apply it to the low jet is called the D-J 'method'. That stops at mid-point. I have another monitor that will not show the wave when I shoot video off the screen. What I do deliberately is for you to see the 60hz 1/2 wave rolling down the screen. That is a hidden, 'Concept."

You see how we live in that 60hz cycle and now apply the half screen is freeze screen so you have half the 60hz wave. Now your concept should be the low speed jetting seen on screen 1/2 sliced is stop the wave half way down. Now add the upper jetting to this, 'method' and the high speed jetting screen is that moving shadow of ECU working the fuel trims in this sort of method of the concept is the monitor screen half-hertz, [your brain now].

So, here you have a two wave fuel trim as a method of low and high speed fuel feeding. You now see the pots on the Tfi piggy and how that is trimmed fuel wise. You see they shut off the low half-hertz or it bleeds into the main jet wave of the 60hz. Let me stop here and ask if you can see all that concept? I screw with the tech in type as I do with video. I have [some] hidden concepts [if you stop laughing at my videos].

This is more like, "MMI Fastrack." You do not need that school. Short of hands-on, MMI means, "missed most instructions" and this is what you are reading. A lot of missed used concepts that keep falling back into and never leaves the loop of the absolute is no matter how I say it.

So, no matter how that concept reads out of the factory service manual... You are in the underground of it all. Nobody goes here. This is beyond what you need to know of that book. It is more like; do this to this wire and you are done. Ah, no. I don't think so.

Basically, I simply opened the generic factory shop manual and read a little bit of it. I am going to drill it into your head; that the carb is the same concept since the first suck out of the 'needled hole." If I opened the FSM in 1999 or as I did when the 14's manual came out and I just asked Ivan a question about his concept on the 5th gear tre deal; I read the code pages; it says there is no difference from then till now; what is the known and explained in so many words are the (6) locked in gear concept is the what the FSManual says otherwise to Ivan's concept or his abstract walk of the GPS.

So, "please explain" is more I am explaining how the code has not changed as is the carb has not changed that concept of sucking out a hole is the proportion of fuel an so is the electrical wave or value or 10th of volt reading is more an electrical carb that mimics the static suck it out the hole type carb is match my concept is fuel injection as we know it.

This is somewhat simple in concept. It is very complex in execution. We do not want technical BS but more surface concepts. Being this is so complex, you can start anywhere. I start at the bottom with the 1Atmo and build from there.

So, lynin... WATT is sticking out in your mind that is stopping you from the walk. Take it one step at a time and just drill the hell out of it until it sinks in. We could spend days on the trouble-tree of compression say. All that bent valve and stuck ring that causes the loss of one of the 3 running variables. You know the concept of fuel and spark completing the loop making it run. What in the fuel injection concept are you stuck on?

We walk through this because I am not going to tune your bike. YOU ARE! YOu walk away with a concept, you are on your way as to what piggy is going to play in your garage. If you want hard core concept to tuning the tuneup, it's your stumbling block in the read, not my fault we do not get the abstract in the factory service manual. I did not write the book. I just understand a little of it. I get you in that door, you be tuning in the underground = Pay Dirt.

And all because you just have one simple concept [the > 1 atm] as your base map. Your assfactor map. YOur one and only map is 10 years down the road is we be on the same ass bike is the world's fast test and I will be sitting on that factor is ass soon as 10 years comes down the road is like quick.

You think you would still have the same 1999 FSM concept as it applies? If it involves the 1Atmo, then yes, we be in the same concept is you gonna be confused 10years down the road listening to me? Better read that book then. I am about ass useless as a dead bug on the front of a fairing you do not understand how to jet the bike new style is same old style.

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