Recently I realized I needed +7" longer front brake, clutch, and throttle because of how far I've moved the grips back and up.

Started with my stealer, and worked through a handful of places, and nobody could do all of it.

When I got to Roaring Toyz, I talked to Brad Sexton (941-953-4423). His answer was "no problom, we can do it".

And they did. High quality stainless steel braided with really good fittings. For a fair price. In 3 weeks.

So now I have a 2-line front brake, a rear brake, a clutch all done in ss braided. And a +7" throttle assembly that fit as good as OEM.

* Last updated by: privateer on 3/15/2011 @ 10:30 AM *

Cool. That looks very nice. My 3 year old stock lines seem just fine for how I've been using brakes but I would like to upgrade my lines anyway.

I took it out and did my Spring road test (about 30 minutes) and gave the front and rear brakes and clutch a good workout. Guess I bled them right, lol. Its stops and goes fine. Also, since I extended the wire bundles on each side that go up to the switch pods, I tested all the switches like horn, kill, hi/lo, etc.

I noticed she reacts slighly different on hard front braking. Like from 30ish grabbing 3 fingers hard. I can't quite put my finger on it, but the 2-line setup feels both softer and yet more effective sooner all at the same time. I can't make better sense of it yet.

I was wondering if having a two hole banjo bolt up at the master would create a pressure differential and cause it to pull harder on one caliper than the other, but it doesn't pull off line, so worrying was needless.

The rear brake is a lot quicker to become effective, and really firm. When you step on it, you know you are using the rear brake really quickly. Heh.

But its not so markedly improved over stock as to be necessary. I just like the extra little bit of rigidity in the hydraulic hoses for when I really need to stop in a very short distance.

By the way, if anyone has Roaring Toyz or someone else do their clutch hose in stainless braided, they don't replicate the solid aluminum tubing section the OEM hose has, with a rubber insulation sheath.

So what I did was cut the stock rubber sheath off, and slip it on the stainless braided hose where it crosses over the exhaust, and where it comes down alongside the cylinder, and used small zip ties to secure it. Which should keep the clutch hose hydraulic fluid from getting too hot, just like OEM.