How important is it to torque the rear nut after removing the back wheel? I tighten mine to tight and fit the split/cotter pin. Any experiences?

I never owned a torque wrench the first three chain tightenings. I just took note of how many turns it took to loosen the nut on the axle. After the second time I had it off, I lost track of howw many turns but I remembered how tight it felt. After purchasing a torque wrench, I discovered that I had been previously way overtightened the axle nut. I noticed there were shavings of metal on the spacer when I took the wheel off. I would just get the nut good and tight like it felt when you loosened it (maybe a bit looser because it is likely the axle nut was somewhat stuck by dust or micro-corrosion) and put a big linchpin retainer through the hole or a new cotter pin.

You can get a 1/2" drive 10-150'lb torque wrench at Advance Auto for about $16 and it will be perfect for 70 - 90 lb torques. It is made by AmPro which is their store brand. While you're there, you could borrow their metric axle nut socket set for a $40 returnable deposit. A socket not designed for axle torquing could split. However, after feeling what the appropriate 93'lb of torque is, I think a normal socket would hold up just fine. Loosening might be a bit more likely to break the socket because the nut often sticks.

There may be a certain amount of tension required on the swingarm so you should take a pretty darn good guess at 93'lbs if you are not using a torque wrench. 93'lbs is probably less torque than it took to remove the nut. As I mentioned, the nut was likely stuck a bit after sitting on the bike tight for a few months.

I just use the silly tool in the stock tool bag. Applies sufficient torque (and really cant overtorque with that POS)Just in case if on a trip.........,