I've always used Griplock....

but the Rizomas are a different animal... the right grip is the throttle tube and therefore held on by the throttle housing. The left grip is held on with a set screw.

Looks like the ones you are getting, Rook, are like Driven's.

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I just hope they work. Ordered from the same guys I ordered the levers from and that appears a little shady to me at present.

Thanks for the special vid on billet/rubber grips. That gives me a lot more confidence. Hope i can push them on instead of twisting against the throttle stop like he did....but good tips.

From the published specs, looks like these are going to be ~1/4" shorter than the stock grips which is going to leave a gap between the thumb controls housing. I see there are a couple screws in back of the controls housing. Can those be loosened to move the control housings outward on the bar so the control housings are snug up to the new grips?

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/28/2011 @ 1:56 PM *

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From the published specs, looks like these are going to be ~1/4" shorter than the stock grips which is going to leave a gap between the thumb controls housing. I see there are a couple screws in back of the controls housing. Can those be loosened to move the control housings outward on the bar so the control housings are snug up to the new grips?

I can't remember if the housing sits in a hole or groove on the 14 or not... but I don't think so. If they are 1/4" inch shorter my question is, what are you gonna do about the throttle tube? That housing will move, but are you going to have a 1/4" on the tube exposed towards the bar end?... or you gonna have to trim a 1/4" off of the tube?

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<Me no Know either! I think I may just cut 1/4" off the stock grips to fill in the gaps.

Since we're off topic, I would like to clear and extra 1/4" of bar so i could get a bar clamp mount. Would have mounted my LCD on that except the lever clamps won't allow for enough room on the bar.

TECHMOUNT These guys used to have a huge selection of mounts with cool ball joints. Looks like they really cut some corners.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/28/2011 @ 8:32 PM *

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Those housings will NOT move...unless you file off the tab pin inside.

Thanks, blue. Guess I will need to rig up something. Maybe I'll go back to stock grips and bar ends. I never was too much for bling. Fancy paint jobs are awesome but I've stayed away from strictly ornamental stuff. I might look for a set of those chromed balls to hang below the tail light though.

sOrry for jacking another thread.

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You can still tighten down the screws in the housings without that little pin in there to hold the housing in place.Just don't tighten one screw down all the way,and then the other.Kinda even the tightening down for both screws.The housing will be plenty secure on there,yet it will be moveable(turnable)with a good force applied.(which you won't be doing anyway).

Anyone ridin a 14 as she's meant to be ridden don't need no chrome balls hangin off the tail.Brass will do just fine tucked away outta sight!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 1/29/2011 @ 1:40 AM *

.Any recommendations on where I should set my axle? Do I want to pull it forward or should I try to lengthen the wheel base? I have it on the about the third mark now. Think I will sacrificing cornering if I go longer?

Rook, I wished I would have not cut mine so short. My current set up(in the middle)is great for flipping from 44T 45T 46T. My findings with the 45 gear is I should have went longer.

Ask yourself what you do most ? If knee dragging, go short. If street or 1/4 mile track go long.

This gearing begs for longer. If you go long You can always cut a link out after. No biggy.

Can you mail me two Extra Links

This gearing begs for longer. If you go long You can always cut a link out after. No biggy.

That is what I'm thinking. Better to start long and trim it down after I see what my needs will be. Really, I think the only thing I would do to gear it lower would be go -1T on the front and that would give me a little more wheel base. Only other thing I might do would be go down a few T in the back and that too would give more wheel base----but as you say, Rom, better to have a bit much than not enough.

Can you mail me two Extra Links

I think so. I have a 130 pin so I imagine I will have a couple left over. I won't throw 'em away. I'll let you know what /if I have any extras. They are chrome and they are a EK ZZZ 530.

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I think the only thing I would do to gear it lower would be go -1T on the front and that would give me a little more wheel base.

16F/45R,,,,,,, Wow. Your a Mad Man. Lol. 12 inch extension may be required. Please report your findings. Weeeeeee.

rook wants to make his 14 a stunter bike lol. domt know bout the 14 havent played with the gearing yet but when i went down 1 (15) and up 2 (43) on the 9 it made it a wheelie machine lol

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-2/+2 520 conversion with a 1/5th turn throttle on my 10r.... WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!

Hey Rick, I can send you some factory zx14 links. Lemme know if you want 'em.

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 1/30/2011 @ 10:49 AM *

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rook wants to make his 14 a stunter bike lol. domt know bout the 14 havent played with the gearing yet but when i went down 1 (15) and up 2 (43) on the 9 it made it a wheelie machine lol

16/45 would be the limit of freaky gearing I would even consider. The only reason I even have that idea in my head is because MassZX14 had that gearing. As mentioned before --perhaps other threads-- I am not at certain I will even have what it takes to use 17/45. I have a feeling I will lengthenning the gearing later but I thought if I am going to try something new, I might as well go way up to my neck instead of just stick my toe in to test the water.

I find stock gearing more than a handful on my hardest cornering. Perhaps I like higher rpm than I should be bothering with but that right there shows the stock 14 has more power than I can use in a corner. Stock gearing, you need more power, just drop a gear and you got it. I think the lower gearing is going to be more of a straight line thing. That is the only time I feel the 14 has a little less than I can handle---5th-6th gear, 3-4K rpm, whack it open, no big deal anymore. Still lots of fun and way more than you need for the road but who cares about being practical with these bikes. Not me. I have a stock busa to be practical with....for a little while...until it gets turned into a beast too.

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Hey Rick, I can send you some factory zx14 links.

Thanks bro. But may be going a different direction soon. My bike not cutting it any more. 10s are faster and my riding partner is passing me at 100 mph doing a burn out with his ZX-14(prick lol).

Adapt and Change with the changing times or become extinct. I'll get him, fucker.

Steve lurks here but won't post. Here kitty kitty, I'm coming.

I enjoyed riding with others but if that is where it leads...I think I'm better off on my own for a while. $$$$$$$$$$$$

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Adapt and Change with the changing times or become extinct. I'll get him, fucker

Uh oh... Big bore, turbo, sc, or no more 14???

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in need of some quick advice as i am ready to order new sprockets. bike has roughly 6000 miles on her ive got funds for a 16/43 sprocket change but not quite the funds for a new chain. so my question is.. should i wait until i can change the chain also or can i just get away with the sprockets? thanks in advance guys

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Unless it is out of necessity I'd wait until you can afford the chain as well Scottjkyl, old chain on new sprockets at best could just cause premature wear, worst case snenario could be a jumping chain,
Theres my 2c

* Last updated by: Brenny on 5/6/2011 @ 8:54 AM *

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thanks brenny thats what ive always heard

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