I just replaced my clutch in my 09 zx14 with some barnett clutch. I also replaced my battery to. Once I was done I tried starting the bike and it will not start. It will turn over but would not start. I made sure it had fuel I checked the fuses and all is good. What was funny I put the kickstand up and placed it in 1st gear pulled the clutch in and started the bike. When I did that the bike started launching forward which is crazy the bike shouldn't move while the clutch is engaged. I'm thinking I might of put the clutches in wrong but I don't know.

Obviously something is wrong with the clutch it is not disenguaging.

Maybe there is a sensor that has detected error and is not allowing operation?

If the bike would not start in N but will start in gear with clutch pulled....that sounds to me like the bike is not coming out of gear. The gear sensor is receiving info that he bike is in gear and disabling the starter...but allowing when the clutch is pulled.

Barnetts are sticky, mean, racing plates. You live with the sticking drag. This is like buying OEM quality vs. I'm going to save 20 bucks worth of over the counter sticker shock. Are you racing the bike? Are you abusing the bike? Why so soon a clutch pack if guys are getting hundreds of passes with the stock plates?

Rook,
the bike will not start in gear it only launches forward.

Hub,
I don't do any drag racing don't really know why the clutch went so fast maybe to many burnouts with the 300 wide tire.

I don't have much of a clue but just to gather the evidence, does it roll freely in gear with the clutch pulled? ...if it is jumping forward with the clutch pulled as you said, I would expect the clutch is not letting go from the drive. That would explain why it jumps forward when you turn the motor.

...that may be the cause. The cure ? me no know sorry. I don't know much about clutches that I could help you out.

This pack you have now is like a dog on a leash and s/he is tugging tight at the clutch lever. What you need to do is remove the oil cap off the clutch cover. Do not tag the threads, nor drop something inside the hole. What you want to do is see what Rook sort of asked on the back end, is spin the back wheel in 1st. So you more or less push the bike with the clutch lever pulled in.

You are looking down in the clutch cover hole and feeding lever to see how and when the bike locks up so you pull the lever back in and see how much throw you have as well? Then, the next thing is to see where that pressure plate is: in proportion to the clutch outer forks or the long tangs of the outer basket? So when the clutch lever is out, that pressure plate to outer basket is what you are looking for. It's a 'stack measurement.'

The pressure plate is going to push the piston back into the slave cylinder, which pushes the rod back in. If say the measurement is short or say less one plate, the pressure plate moves into the outer basket much deeper: losing stack. The rod is pushed back; as normal wear of the plates shrink; the pack moves the pressure plate in.

You now throw the lever and in proportion, the rod calls the throw via the pack being way out there is the perfect stack. So when the throw is at full stack, that rod moves farther out the slave. The rod moves the pressure plate way out there and that makes the plates break away from each other. It makes finding N without dragging of the pressure plate too deep into the clutch outer. There is no lurch or grinding of gear as if you never pulled the clutch in.

Where is the stack? Got a camera to shoot the basket and pressure plate in that hole?

Got the clutch in correct, found the reason why it wasn't starting. One of the wires from my power commander melted. Thanks fellas for your help

Glad you figured it out. Thanks for the follow up.