Looks like I might have a few questions as I go through this procedure. Before I get started, any idea where I might get my hands on the spacial tools necessary to do this job? I need a pilot screw adjuster and adapter. And a vacuum gauge. Also, a "very accurate" tachometer (the analogue tach on the bike isn't precise enough, I suppose).

I noticed there were numbers included with the names of the special tool in the service manual. For example, 'vacuum gauge 57001-1369'. Is that something like a part number so you can order the special tool from Kawi? Think I could possibly rent these items from an auto supply or are these tools highly Kawasaki motorcycle specific?

Thanks Hub. That is one nifty device there. Thanks for the pics. That shows a lot better what I need to look for than the drawings in the SM. It will be a while until I start to tackle this job but when i do, I'll pull the topic ttt. I did a quick search for manometer and I see it's just a pressure gauge. They have them for liquid and gas.

Hope this doesn't break the bank or it may just be worth while to bring it in to the shop. I have a friend who might have some of these tools too. I should ask him.

Thanks again. I stopped in to see my buddy at Advance Auto today and they had an engine vacuum gauge for $20. It had a round, needle gauge and a fitting to attach a rubber hose. The scale went from 0 -70 cm Hg so I think that would be a little hard to get a real precise reading on (the SM spec is 293mmHg +/- 10Hg). I guess it would work fine though, if I can't find one with a finer scale.

I'm off to Harbor Freight today to look for some other tools. The pilot screw adjuster is the one I think I might have trouble finding. I do have a 90 degree drill attachment for drilling holes in tight spots. It works the same way as your pilot screw adjuster so that might do the trick if I turn it by hand.

There are a lot of digital multimeters to be found out there and it seems like some, if not all, read rpm. Found a volt/tach/dwell meter with analogue scale at Sears for $34. It is similar to the one shown in the SM. My main concern is how does it hook onto the primary lead of the stick coil. It would be nice to have a pincher that just clamps onto the stick coil wire.

1. I see some of these devices have two needles at the end of wires. Would I have to poke these into my stick coil lead? I'm not doing that.

2. Is there any reason I shouldn't just use the bike's tachometer when checking rpm?

3. Also, would a flex shaft screw driver work for the pilot screw?

**Update - forget the analogue meter tach at Sears. It doesn't seem to work the same for motorcycles as it does for cars.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/24/2009 @ 8:46 PM *

Those are EXCELLENT pics HUB!Glad ya posted those-and the tool you used there,that phillips deal-how hard are the adjuster screws to turn once you seat the screwdriver tip.And also-you mentioned somethin about the adjuster screws-how many do you adjust?One per two stacks?(left bank,right bank?)Gotta say-that there throttlebody looks MIGHTY CLEAN there!Geez-ever think about creatin yer own service manual by pictures?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/23/2009 @ 10:42 PM *

There seem to basically be 2 tools available on the internet for pilot screw adjustment. both do a 90 degree tip and have a twist nob on the handle. One is called the Motion Pro or Posse Pilot Screw Adjuster for ~$20. Don't get this for your 14 because it has a straight slot tip and I don't think it can be changed to philips as it appears we need from Hub's photo up there. I believe this is just a flex shaft in a bent tube.

The tool sold as Tokyomods Pilot Screw Adjusting Tools seems to be perfect but it is $100. It has interchangeable bits and a a gear set up to turn the 90 deree. I think I saw it for about 80 bucks shipped from other sellers on line. It's not easy to find but you can look at it if you search the tokyomods name above. This thing is also available from Sudco but I can't see how to order.

I looked that up as well-Motionpro that is.Two Items I definitely intend to get-that 90 degree wratchet with the interchangeable tips,and the vacuum meter.(SyncPro carb tuner-$99.00).Wrachet-$89.00.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/24/2009 @ 10:47 AM *

^^I think I'll take that as, "If you can't get this done with the first screw, then you ARE screwed!"

Here's how I set my 'poor man's' engine vacuum sinc test. I checked T-bodiies #3 and #4 first, then #1. #2 is so hard to get the cap off of (because there is a an electrical harness bracket in the way) that I decided to just let it go for now. The other three were consistently readings 220mm HG anyway. I assumed the unchecked #2 must be the same as #1 because Hub said both T-bodies on each bank are connected internally (Right, Hub?)

As you can see from the pic, I was getting quite an oscillation at idle. I turned the throttle grip to 3K on bike tach and the vacuum gauge read pretty steady so I'm going with that for now. Interesting that engine vacuum didn't seem to go up from idle - 3K. The pulsation just smoothed out and the meter needle seemed to settle right about center of the oscillation swing.

I know this test wasn't perfect but I learned a few things and I'll be repeating the whole routine with some other kind of meter before long. For now, I'm calling it synced.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/26/2009 @ 4:33 PM *

That's a great idea! I would have never thought of that. I might even be able to find a reduction hose fitting that would work. I'll save that idea for next time. Thanks.

FYI: Checked with Kawi dealer for price on vacuum tester part # from the SM. $1,400. Online price for same tester was $1,100.

Obviously cost prohibitive if you're not a professional mechanic. Even then, You'd have to do a hell of a lot of t-body syncs to make that little gadget pay for itself.

Hey Rook-how about Motionpro-they've got a Sync meter online-nothing near $1400.00 Might check er out? Four vacuum tubes.Looked pretty good to me.

Yeah saw that last night. The product reviews by consumers were less than stellar on the site i was at. A couple people said it works well if you take the time to read the instructions and calibrate it. The other several reviews were beaching about the fluid getting sucked in the motor and also about bubbles in the tubes that could not be removed. One guy even said the tops of the plastic tubes got soft after sitting for a while. One guy said his first unit sucked up the fluid and the replacement worked fine. ?????????

I'm not real sure I would spend $100 on it unless there was a no hassle money back gaurenty.

You might try a vacuum gauge with a reducer fitting like Hub has suggested above.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/28/2009 @ 10:40 AM *

Hi

I'm about to have a go at this too.
From the schematics it looks like #1 and #2 are joined, with a small bypass screws that allow the butterflies between them to be adjusted relative to each other. Same for #3 and #4.
The manual suggests getting the max of #1/#2 and max of #3/#4 in sync by adjusting a screw that joins the two pairs together. From what I can see, the throttle is split in the middle and joined by this linkage.

So I bought the TwinMax electronic carb sync tool. $99 from Adventure Motorcycle Gear.
It measures the difference between two vacuums, not the absolute. Perfect for the task here.
So I was planning to diff the #1 and #2. Pick the higher one. Diff the #3 and #4 - pick the higher one.
etc.
Does that sound like it will work?

And for the accurate RPM - any reason the RPM display from the Power Commander software isn't accurate?
It jumps around a bit, but the manual says 1100 +/- 50 which I think I can read from the laptop screen.

From what I have heard, you are correct that the left two bores are connected and the right two are connected. The vacuum should be the same between #1 and #2. Same between #3 and 4. I would still check each individually, at least the first time you do this procedure. I have not done it yet myself.

As for RPM, the tachometer recommended on the service manual is over $1000. I would trust the bike's tach but your idea of using the PowerCommander software sounds excellent. Thanks for the tip.

The book has an arcane procedure for balancing the individual tbs if the center adjuster that balances the pairs doesn't do the trick, but it's another one of those deals that seems to have lost something in the translation from Japanese to English and is pretty confusing.

Got the pairs of tbs balanced using the center adjustment screw, but the vacuum on the inside left cylinder is a bit low. Tried turning the bypass screw in and out a bit, but it didn't have much affect, so I left it alone.
The book doesn't say which way to turn it to bring the needle up. That's the cylinder that has one intake and one exhaust valve on the loose end of the cleartance spectrum, so maybe that's part of the problem since vacuum is set at idle.

Got the pairs of tbs balanced using the center adjustment screw, but the vacuum on the inside left cylinder is a bit low.

So, even though the two left bores are connected, it is still possible that they can have different amounts of vacuum?

There are adjustment screws on each tb, but they are not connected to the primary butterflies, only what looks to be an air bleed circuit. Book says adjust the lowest-reading cylinder to the highest, (same as with the pairs, although having only one adjustment between the pairs, this seems meaningless) buty I couldn't get the screw to have much effect, so I left it as-is.

sounds like it is going to be an exercise in frustration. I'm going to have to read the SM and check around to see if I can find anyone who has figured this out when the time come sfor me to balnce my TBs. This eould be a situation where it would be worth while to decipher Hub's advice. I see all of his comments on this thread are deleted.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/28/2013 @ 9:51 AM *

Got it out and rode for a couple of hours this afternoon (74 deg. F!) It's noticeably smoother from what little adjustment I did. Roads were pretty snotty with humidity and last night's rain, and there is still a lot of cinders spread on the pavement from the freeze the other night, so I only got up to about 120 once just to test. It may not be perfect, but it's better than it was. No leakage at the head cover gasket either. That's a definite plus.

I think I get it now. Each pair #1/#2 and #3/#4 is effectively a 2 barrel unit.
Just like 2 barrel carbies you have a screw that bleeds air between the two to balance pressure.
The SM says if you can't get the pair to balance to remove and clean the bypass screws.
I'm guessing they are just bleeding vacuum either to left or right. So turning the bypass screw will affect both.
The centre join is to get both pairs in sync.

So in theory they are independent adjustments. The SM is more complicated than it needs to be.
Get each pair balanced - turning the screw will decrease one and increase the other.
My new TwinMax should be ideal for this. With each pair the same ill balance the centre.

I'm ready to take the plunge. :)

There's a bypass screw on each tb and as stated, the book says to adjust to the higher of the two, just like when you adjust the balance screw. The book is definitely confusing. I have been highlighting each passage or sentence that sounds like it lost something in the translation to English. Some of them are quite comical. It doesn't say which way to adjust the bypass screws to increase vacuum. In or out?

* Last updated by: Danno on 1/28/2013 @ 9:16 PM *

Well I did the synch measurement part today.
Had all the fairings off doing suspension update... another story.

Two on right side are as close to the same as the TwinMaster can measure.
Two on left are a bit out, with #1 slightly less vac than #2.
I then tested #1 against #4. Same.

So I have #2 a bit higher than all the others which are the same.
Those bypass screws are gonna be tough to reach, and only #2 is out by very little.

I'll leave it until I next have the girl undressed.

I had about the same thing with #3 being a bit lower than the other three. It's the same cylinder that had one intake and one exhaust valve clearance nearly maxed out to the large side. All others were closer to the small limit. Tweaking the bypass screw didn't seem to make much difference.