I'm currently running the stock filter with the screen removed and debating whether or not to switch it out for the F1-85 filter. I've watched Brock's videos on the potential gains over stock with screen removed/competitor filters, and read comments from forum members who merely stated that they are running the F1-85.

Since the Sprint filter has been out for a few years I'm curious to hear from those who actually run this filter on whether or not they encountered any issues from using it over a significant period of time. Were any real world gains felt over the stock filter? The gains on the dyno according to Brock is 1.5 HP over stock w/screen removed, and potentially 5-7 additional peak HP during real world riding since the dyno doesn't account for the RAM air effect.

So far my bike is flashed with a full Brock's exhaust, running Brock's PumpTrack fuel map which according to him, accounts for the increased air flow if I were to switch to the Sprint filter. I don't drag but occasionally do some roll ons with my friends when we travel to Mexico. Any feedback from those who have any real world experience with the F1-85 would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

The two killers of engine compression loss is the air cleaner and oil. Since HP gain is more narrowing it down to high rpm performance, there is where you sacrifice the microns to flow not more air, but move the air faster, so yes it will gain HP.

The next line of thinking is that the gain in HP is so small in chunks of HP is more linear once the initial flash and pipe changes are done. Weight removal is more a ratio of 7lbs equals 1hp I hear. Meaning, you'll never feel that 1.5 gain in HP, being linear to collect it all.

So say splash lube is the crankshaft whipping the oil up in the crankcase, the oil out of the rods move out of the crank and 'splash lubes' the cylinder walls. That's dirty oil [debris] mixed with the splash and scores the wall that way with floating dirty oil.

The larger microns entering a more opened door that is wider so the wind is still picking up dust in the air you can't see, are the tires tagging your windshield with tiny rocks, or you look at the windshield at a certain angle and note the pitting it has weathered thru.

Now, big boy micron enters, gouges a deeper line than oil debris is the bore score. Enough lines made, you now line up all the score lines to show compression being lost down that collected gap. Not happy keeping the bike for long, go for the tiny HP gain.

I am totally opposite about this HP game for a street bike. If it's not closed course, box stock is fine with me. Being more opposite about micron damage for such little gain, I'm pre-filtered. Going to check compression soon to see how close I am to book's highest range number.

Been messing with you boys for years. After all, 'ain't my bike' as they say.

Signed,
NOLTT (not one line to tear)

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/13/2023 @ 12:48 PM *

Well I ended up purchasing and installing the Sprint P08 F1-85 and I could immediately tell that it performs better than the stock filter with the screen removed. Better throttle response across the entire RPM range, and not that the 14R had a problem pulling hard when all out gunning it, but noe it pulls even harder with the Sprint in place. I'll be keeping a close eye on the filtering aspects by checking the filter at least once a month.

Installing the filter was the last piece of "Project Bolt-On" that I started last year with the goal of finishing before this year's riding season. Hopefully now I can just sit back and enjoy riding the bike and stop obsessing on squeezing every ounce of performance out of this monster. :)

Ha! The largest microns will enter first on a new more breathable filter. Down the road you'll lose compression and there goes performance.

Signed,
NOLTT(no one likes trophy takers)

I guess I signed myself up to be the forum guinea pig for this bolt on mod. :) I'll be sure to report back this time next year on whether the bike lost any of its performance.

Side note: I've been running the F1-85 on my ZX10R since 2020, upgrading from the standard K&N filter, and to date it still pulls and runs fantastic. When I changed the oil in my ZX10R approximately every 5,000 miles I maintenance the F1-85 with compress air and have yet to experience any particles getting past the filter when I inspect the airbox. I guess due to me not living in a dusty environment helps. However, this could be a different story with the ZX14R, but only time will tell with some risk involved.

Anyone that wants to run whatever is fine with me. I run OE filter, because I don't believe in the "it pulls way harder" crowd. My guess is more along lines of things like airbox mods, K&N, etc. you're basically getting slightly more sensory inputs which make it "feel" like it's so much snappier, faster, and whatever.

I always encourage doing actual testing vs butt dyno when it comes to "performance". Butt dyno can't be trusted, not even professionals can trust butt dyno. Time after time I've seen a pro say "it was definitely faster" and their pit chief is like "you were slower 2 tenths a lap". Of course, sometimes butt dyno seems right, and maybe it is, but it's pretty much guess work.

Dyno is better than butt dyno, but then real world (methodical) back to back testing is where it's as as far as actual performance differences. And unless you're a quarter miler or something and are consistent, and see your trend lines move based off of some change even something like trying to use quarter mile slips is risky as far as identifying performance.

At most, this mod is going to get you .1 in the quarter, and frankly, my mind would be blown if in reality it was even that significant. Where as, especially if you live in dusty areas like Hub says, it's not like it's going to trash your motor in 1000 miles but most likely will let larger and more particles through than an OE filter, for basically some extra snorting.

We definitely know these high flow filters DO result in increased engine wear.

* Last updated by: VicThing on 3/19/2023 @ 4:51 PM *

^^^ This is the reason I asked in my original post for feedback from those who run or have run a F1-85 filter, not from those who don't own one. Also my the results from my dragy indicates that my butt dyno was correct after the full Brocks exhaust/F1-85 filter install. A dyno is only a number that doesn't reflect real world performance, whereas the results at the strip/street is more indicative of if mods/changes are netting benefits from any given bolt on.

I'm a firm believer of getting feedback from trusted people who use or have used a product I may be considering. I give more weight to their input, whether positive or negative, on whether or not I buy aa product. I've run across many internet gurus who usually talk or give feedback based on what they think they know or what they read off the internet and it's regurgitated without providing any statistical or real world data to back up their claims.

Vic, I agree with you to use a dyno for performance changes, but to remove the sneeze screen off the OEM filter shows a subtle transition of smoother running. Whatever 'change in performance' can prove out seat of the pants wise.

The normally aspirated gains HP due to a change of air speed, not more air. It's the same air entering, only faster. Intake valve closes at 14.7 psi, as if no pressure at all. It ended at BDC when the intake took its [vacuum] down stroke.

^^^ This is the reason I asked in my original post for feedback from those who run or have run a F1-85 filter

... and this is the reason I don't believe people who say "it pulls way harder."

If you have time slips where you were able to run in 2/10ths consistently, and in similar conditions day after day, and you saw .x improvement I can respect that, bike similarly prepped, same temps returning to the track etc..

There's a myriad of scenarios. You could run stock filter vs F1-85. There is a matter of your tune, however, and if your bike is tuned for the F1 on the stricter side of things, it might make more of a difference switching to OE. So that number might be questionable. And maybe, the same question needs asked if someone with stock fueling and pipes tries running an F1-85 and sees no difference (in consistent testing).

Here's what I would recommend. Some day where you will have stable temps and at least consistent wind (calmer better obviously). Take your bike and record accelerating in whatever gears and ranges you like. Let's say 3rd and 4th gear from 4k to redline. Record your times, maybe use a camera, or GPS, or a specialized device (whatever seems the most accurate that you have). I don't recommend using a stop watch, or counting 1 1000 or something (unfortunately...I have to say this as it's been done). Go out, fill your bike up, ride to your safe and legal location and make 3 pulls. Return to your starting place, swap the air filter, go fill up your bike, and go do 3 more pulls. Then post your results, and if your so inclined things like rider weight, fuel, tire size, gear ratio, air temp, etc. This way we're eliminating a lot of variables such as track prep and just overall rider differences.

Then we have something we can talk about.