I am somewhat concerned with the length of time it takes the fan to turn off after ridding the bike. I used to have an SV 650S which would run the fan for a minute or two and then shut off after being ridden hard in the summer. The ZX14 is taking over 5 minutes to cool down enough for the fan to stop on its own. The weather here has only gone up to 15C (59F) and there is only 250km on the bike so far so no top speed runs are happening. I am worried about what may happen in the summer. So my question is, do you need to leave the bike on (key in, engine on) until the fan turns off or can I turn off the bike before the fan goes off and let it cool down on its own? Secondly is there a problem with the bike?

Any info would be great, Thanks

Fristly, not a problem with the bike WATTSO or WOTso ever. The heat is not a problem whatsoever. You are chasing a ghost. Do not compare your other bikes to sweetie kins. She is hot-hot-hot fur about 8 months and then you throw her out of the house.... Wait... Wrong lady.

Lady has a tight (****) and she needs breaking-inn. If you want me to break it in, I'll be right back. << So you don't see the grin.

Then, you pat your shoulder and say, "Relax, fella." You start assuming you have a fan problem and is the fan showing you how it cools down? Say, ever boil water? When you turn the key off, say, is the water still boiling in the pot without flame?

The fan on a dead motor is overkill... Turn the key off. Walk away from the bike till the next ride.

Hub did his usual and gave you all you need.

Chill. Just turn the key off and walk away. She will cool off on her own sweet time.

The more you ride the better it will get.

You can get obsessive about it if you want, like some of us. Get a second fan, put a COX radiator guard on, replace the front fender with a ZX10 fender, and put Engine Ice in for coolant. Not that I know anyone who has done such a thing.

I never had my fan stay on after I shut off the bike. It must be you.(yes, I had to be that person, jk)

I beat sally when I bring her home on a hot day, I kill and coast into the garage. With the bike sitting still, the kill of, key on, that fan is running because I beat sally silly. Get my last licks inn before heading home to the wife... WOAaaaaaaaaa?

I don't crush her bones. I just break their hearts. Crush... if your fan does not come on, you must have one of those little wristizz is, right? Limp mode?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbr1EiIC2Ro&feature=featured Gone in a blink. LOL

Thanks for the answers, comments and 2 cents I appreciate all. And now I do not have to wait around on the street watching my bike cool down while the key is left in... Just did not want to have the new girlfriend get hot under the collar and break something...

Or I enjoy being sarcastic.

If you come out to coolant on the floor or a dead battery then you can start worrying.

Everything [mostly] has a close tolerance on initial break-in. That is why it takes time to wear in or wear out... Depends on how you look at it. I see it as wearing out and then the heat subsides after awhile. You'll see 3-4 bars during hot riding. Your fan will come on, trying to keep that peak HP output = Heat Range.

Not many bikes are overheating. High bar readings, yes. But, I've never heard one boiled over with a blown head gasket.

Are you going to question Bulletproof after 5 years being out there exposed to every element?

That is how to build bike. Trouble-Free.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/26/2011 @ 1:12 PM *

Am I looking at 1500km (932 miles) before I start seeing lower temps?

It really depends on several different things JBreezy. I wouldn't necessarily put a number on when to expect things. I'd say if you've gotten to well over 3k miles and you're seeing the same exact thing, you might want to start checking things. You ARE breaking her in by the book, yes? Also, when I first bought mine, I noticed a small puddle of anti-freeze beneath her. I found out later that when the dealer did the fluid checks and inspection, they overfilled the reservoir and, sure enough, the hose that comes from the reservoir was wet. That sorted itself out after a couple of days. No biggie. Just make sure you're breaking her in proper and do your oil changes by the book. When I had mine, I changed the oil with Kawasaki standard OEM oil as recommended by the service manual. Then, at 3k miles, I put half synth half regular Repsol oil, then at 6k full synth using Mobil 1 from my local Walmart. No need in getting into a debate about oils as everyone has their opinion. Just letting you know what worked for me.

On a side note, get rid of those OEM tires ASAP. They're definitely not confidence-inspiring and, frankly, a joke. Seriously.

On a side note, get rid of those OEM tires ASAP. They're definitely not confidence-inspiring and, frankly, a joke. Seriously.

Seriously? On a slide note: I've never been more confident with those lightweight babies. Now you are stuck with those heavy long distance poo-poo'zzzzzzzzzz replacements.

oil thread!
tire thread!
Yeeyeah baby! Water slide!

The good thing is you're paying attention to your bike. Trust me when I say this bike can get alarmingly hot compared to other bikes and to someone unacquainted it may seem wrong but you'll realize it's just the nature of the beast. Not that I don't think you should do everything you can to minimize it, just don't think somethings gonna blow up on you until you start to see coolant leaking - if it makes you feel better it wouldn't hurt to pop the right ram-air duct and have a look at your coolant level in the radiator either just to make sure. With a bike like this it probably isn't a bad idea to replaces the coolant every year no matter what the specs say just to make sure it's up to task.

Like I've said before, I have taken off the rubber mat they encapsulate the motor in, I've filled the radiator with Engine Ice, and I've done the second fan install and still my bike warms up to the fifth bar with one left to go on a 50 degree day just sitting for a minute at a red light, but nothing bad has ever come of it. Just make sure to keep fresh oil in the bike and check fluid levels constantly like any rider should and you'll be golden. Oh yeah, and an ice pack for the nut-sack doesn't hurt either.

Hub -> Yeah, I'm saying the OEM rubber [that ships with the bike] from Bridgestone is MAJOR crap. There are entire 10-page long discussions not only from this board, but bikeland and the other zx that discuss this at length. It's as if everyone at Bridgestone were asleep the day they made that tire. And, from what I've read, it seems to be a one-off custom made just for factory bikes that came straight from the big four, as if some deal was made between the two. Where did you find you source for tire weight comparison?

Here are some links:

In the B Group, Bridgestone enters the competition with its Battlax BT-016 sport motorcycle tire. These shoes have the distinction of being selected as OE fitment on many new sportbikes including Suzuki’s GSX-R line. As opposed to the OE tires however, the commercially available BT-016s are of a higher spec incorporating multiple compound zones front (3) and rear (5)—the most of any tire in this test.
Bridgestone Tire Comparison Review

Bikeland stock tire discussion

Kawasaki World stock tire discussion

I'm not sure if HUB was defending the BT01, but I know from my experience it has always been a crap tire since it's intro.

Mule #1

I've owned an '06 and currently an '08. When you race, you have these cheater tires on so your ET and that introduction is called [ex-tree-ex-tree] light you at the press intro dragging scrotum.

Ever lift said tire that came fresh outhe crate? Ever cry they left the bike in short odor and now you be sniffing your tears adding weight with a BT-? More like 20 more pounds feels like.

Water bar is match yours. No gain in the whole gain of it. Where is that fan thread? LOL

I have about 650miles on mine. When I've been in traffic , my fan comes on for a bit until I get back to speed and the temp shoots up a bar or 3 lol. If I pull in the driveway I shut the bike off whether the fan is running or not. I've ridden in a couple 80-90 degree days so far, and yes the bike runs hot as they all do, but generally cools down fine once I get rolling. No harm in asking about it though, Jbeezy.

* Last updated by: kdii02 on 4/27/2011 @ 11:14 AM *

I will take a look at the coolant this weekend as I am planning on doing an early oil change before the first service comes up. And since I will have all the tools out and cold beer I might as well get to know the internals a bit better. Any Ideas on where to get a K&N filter for a fair price in Canada?

kdii02 - Nice bike! love the color!

Buy BMC not K&N. Italians are always better!

Buy BMC not K&N. Italians are always better!

The K&N, for the zx14, seals better than the BMC, IMHO. I've owned both.

The K&N, for the zx14, seals better than the BMC, IMHO. I've owned both.

Yup and the Pipercross seals better again. My fav.

Yup and the Pipercross seals better again. My fav.

kdii02 - Nice bike! love the color!

Likewise Jbeezy!! I have the K&N too. Personally, I like it so far. We all have preferences on the darn air filter. HAHAHAHA Craziness!!

K&N, BMC, STOCK, Pipercross. Pick the one YOU like.

* Last updated by: kdii02 on 4/28/2011 @ 1:42 PM *

K&N here too!Fer gosh sakes...seriously...DO NOT OPEN THAT RADIATOR CAP WHEN SHE"S ANYWHERE SOUTH OF WARM.You will screw your day up majorly!She's pressurized,just like yer Porsche.And don't try removing it after she's warmed up and RUNNING.Cold start,cap off...yeah...that's okay.You're only checking the level when cold.NOT HOT!!!!!

* Last updated by: blue07 on 4/28/2011 @ 4:30 PM *

Blue thanks for the warning. I started taking off the fairings and installed the Filter and ran out of time and could not get to the rad cap without taking off the front right panle. I just have to say that there is a lot more time involved in doing maintenance now that there are fairings on my bike... The little bolts that hold the fairing together were not very tight when I was taking the fairng apart to the point I think that one of them was actualy not screwed all the way in. Does the vibration of the bike back out the screws so this will have to be part of my maintenance checks when working on the bike?

Is there a faster way to get to the radiator cap, than taking all the fairings off the side of the bike?