Anyone have any idea WHY she would just "suddenly" start not going through the cold start operation?She's been starting WITH it since I bought her in 07(yes,flies removed as well).

You can check the operation of the cold idle by looking at the left side of the fly shaft. It will drive a small cam that bumps the primary shaft.

You have a heat sensor that ratios the choke. Will you see full choke on the water temp sending in a bike sitting outside in the heat of the day? Will the choke snap all the way? Does the choke cycle for a quick cig or beer run once you jump back on a hot bike.

The actuator would throw a code if she would not ratchet to choke.
The ECU would lose a choke map and still function is not spit a code?

Anyone mess with the spark plug gap? = Stalls (read the DFI troubleshoot tree]

No-no messing with plugs.The choke cam deal there goes through it's cycle.

Shame on me, shame on you for not stopping me is chasing tail... I am not about to go back and forth wit dis any longer. We now enter a bit of time with the clearance sale. Sail away, sail, sail away I am about to hit the variables out of the way:

First thing first: I am not about to argue we are in the vague stages of the diagnosis. I demand a compression test! I don't wanna hear it. That is WOT you should be saying to yourself. That is one down. Now, you may have tagged a valve(s); I don't know where you shift or missed a shift like me. I was never close to the limiter. My fault I am going to blame the gear box, it shifts always smooth the same way; if you stab it right.

I am going to run two tests on compression before I pull the valve cover off. I am saying, we need to have that compressing issue out of the way for numbers. But that is more the pro side is remove that doubt. Short of the tools in the box, we can loophole rule #1 for so long.

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We now chase fuel loss at idle. Second or third is who cares which comes next. We have a stall problem. Cam sensor using an aftermarket chain tensioner? We/me looking in on this side, are clueless as to keep up with all the mods. But say, the two questions needing the clearance call is; did you miss a shift and did you replace the cam chain tensioner?

Once again, we need the fat fitting special tool to check fuel pressure. So, dick is the dicked up the rear end again is plug and play that tune. I am a computer bike. I stole all 2 variables from you. We sure can nail that compression down and clear that from the table. We now can gauge on the idle drop is drop it down to idle. Did that pressure shut off you doing all sorts of, duplicate that event? Not a thing found. Same as compression. All fell within 15% on each other is the hand pump. Leak down on the air pump is 8/9% she is done burned out.

Down she goes are two variables. We need a fuel pressure tester. So, I know the cam sensor took the heat. The cam sensor is hooked to other ground junction boxes. These are closed loop wire wise. So we are figuring out who is doing watt and who or where is the culprit? I am clueless, but it sure is fun finding out the 20/20 it was too simple.

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It is a headache for you, I know, blue. So welcome to the third variable. Now begin your last search [if you picked the fuel or spark was the third variable] you will have to chase the last variable and that is the spark. Cam time ~ is crank time ~ is spark time ~ is no time for the book to give you the straight answer. This is where the book ends and you are the field fixer. ZIf you need the air to compress, the fuel to back up some pressure, you now need to push some electrical pressure out of a timing light to see if the spark drops, the fuel drops, the compression is a sizzle on the leak at idle; the idle screw is screw it; as if an idle down sets a code, meaning, we have to have a rolling plumbage cleavage bending over watching 3 pressures in some way, some how you are going to find it.

ZIf not that phantom, then who ya gonna call, "Ghost Bust Hers?"

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/23/2009 @ 6:50 PM *

Yes-I did replace the stock tensioner-That idea just popped into my head today kind "outta the blue"-but how could that affect the sensor?Rode today just to see how it would do-watched my fuel mileage DROP DROP DROP-and there definitely was several occurrences when applying throttle and holding it where she had a hesitation-not a misfire(well, maybe?)-just a flat-"no power" spot where she should have been responding.And a SLIGHT SURGE(or slowing?)at certain times at certain speeds.I could feel her changing speed ever so slightly.Brought her home-decided to not ride till I get this corrected.Bummer!Regarding that aftermarket tensioner(APE)-when I installed it,I was VERY CAREFUL to just adjust it till the SOUND went AWAY-no further.Did this with the engine running.(maybe took around ten seconds to do it).Bike ran fine after the install-no issues.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/23/2009 @ 7:04 PM *

had a hesitation-not a misfire(well, maybe?)-just a flat-"no power" spot where she should have been responding.And a SLIGHT SURGE(or slowing?)at certain times at certain speeds.I could feel her changing speed ever so slightly.

Check your MAP sensor, its vacuum lines, and the TPS sensor.