Hi, I have a 2006 zx14 with 32000 miles and have a few concerns regarding chain/sprockets , a coolant hose and my valve cover gasket.

I don't know if the bike is still on original chain and sprocket, I have a feeling it is not because the chain isnt that stretched, it is on the 3rd tick mark on the swingarm and has 4 more to go. Plus, for 32000 miles I figured the sprockets would be way more worn out. Anyways, I have started developing some clunking noise when taking off from a stop, right when I release the clutch lever and give it some throttle. it clunks a couple times then stops as I reach about 5-10mph and beyond. It doesn't happen each and every time either. I notice the chain is a tad loose as well, at around 1.8" of slack and I suspected the front sprocket might be worn too. So I took the cover off, and have taken pics of the sprocket. I expected it to be much more worn though. I tightened the chain too. I have not had a chance to ride the bike and see if the noise was just because of the chain slack. but do let me know if my sprockets are too worn.

next up, with the belly pan off, I took a look under to see if there are any leaks and noticed a coolant hose with a small leak. How hard is it to replace this hose? is it a common issue? here is a pic

Lastly, I have noticed for almost a year that my valve cover gasket is leaking lightly on the left side. I think this gasket has been placed once as well because the PO had warranty work regarding the timing tensioner rattling and had valves adjusted too at the dealer ship. this was done 2 years ago. The gasket looks pretty new too. Is this something to be too concerned about?, I see many zx14 have this issue and many seems to still leak after a new gasket. Seems pretty labor intensive to have it replaced as well. Im not losing oil to the point that I have top off or anything of that sort. No drops on the floor.

thanks in advance!

A very-very-dry chaindeed.

Chain pic: New OEM chain and sprockets. She's done. I do not buy afmk stuff so I don't know who/what out there?

Breather pic: Try to tighten the hose clamp.

V-Cover pic: Like the breather, you might have to feel to see how supple the rubber is? Heat shrinks the rubber, hardens it. The OE hose has a preset length and bend. You can't stretch it, etc. Like the valve cover rubbers, they too took the shrink and hardening, sans an old style v-cover?

You'll need a v-cover no doubt so you might as well have the valves checked, unless you are going to do the work yourself. Either way, present a clean bike or they'll replace the valve cover and your oil around the parts is your problem.

I'd take it to the car wash and get most of the chain debris and oil off the bike before I change parts.

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Thanks for the reply, a little confused with your answer for the chain and sprocket, Is it just a dry chain? or the sprockets are also worn?. I am guilty of only cleaning and lubing the chain at 800 mile intervals, would a thorough cleaning and lubing resolve the issue?

I will tighten the hose clamp for that hose and see how it holds, I wanted to replace it, but it looks like a pretty hard to reach area. I will check again

Yeah, I was going to do the work myself,dealers here are a rip off. which is why I really didn't want to do the VCG's unless they absolutely needed to be replaced. like I said, I had this seepage for a year and did not think it was an emergency.

and of course, if I am replacing these parts, I will definitely clean as well as I can before installing the new ones!

thanks again

Don't know about the chain, because there is a measurement of a certain number of links beyond which the chain is shot, but I can tell by the pics both sprockets are ready for the shitcan.

When you replace the head cover gasket, use the one with the later part# and replace all 4 plug well gaskets. While you have it apart, you might as well check the valve clearances. Refer to Rooks tutorials in the How-To section for guidance. You should also replace the 6 cover bolt sealing gaskets and add some #8 metric washers to the bolts while not tightening them enough to bottom. This keeps the cover in tension on the gasket and will prevent future leakage.

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See that front sprocket with the obvious hook to the teeth. Say good bye to that shit. New chain too otherwise it won't be long till she's out hookin' again. It will keep the drivetrain noise to a minimum if you replace the whole set.

* Last updated by: Cornelius on 1/28/2014 @ 5:32 PM *

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Cornelius caught the 'hook,' Joe. Danno is a little on the conservative, 'hold on, lets measure here.' But for Cornelius and I it's a done deal. Do no measure, just order.

I have a clean chain... not a clean bike. That is my main concern is hooking the teeth let alone stretch the pins you can't see. But see the rust out of the rollers? Those were crushing all dry @ your 800mi vs. my 300mi between lubes> killed that chain. Though you can't see the pins you can see those are torn up no shit!... the powder coming off and clinging to the link = Classic. Imagine the hook at the dry teeth. Now, imagine the hook on one side of that pin you can't see holeEshit!

LUBED @ 300mi....

By pulling the sprocket cover I could tell you were hands on. This is not an upsell or over buying parts. This is minimum replacement:

1 ~ Top valve cover gasket.
4 ~ Top sub-cover valve gaskets.
4 ~ Iridium spark plugs - OEM.
1 ~ Endless drive chain - OE.
1 ~ Counter shaft sprocket - OE.
1 ~ Rear sprocket - OE.
1 ~ Rear axle cotter pin.
1 ~ Counter shaft nut bend over tab - OE.
1 ~ Tub of grease for the swing arm pivot needle bearings and front steering bearings.
4 ~ Rear sprocket carrier rubbers > IF... You can move the carrier now with the axle tight, so step on the bottom rung of the chain, see if the carrier moves?
16 ~ Valve shims or less.

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thanks guys,

I am definitely convinced on getting new sprockets and chain. I'm reading up the DIY on it now so I can be prepared. I don't own an impact gun and wondering if a breaker bar with 27mm deep socket is sufficient. Or will an impact really make my life a lot easier? Will those impact gun adapters that turn a regular drill into an impact gun work?

HUB: by the rear sprocket rubber carrier, do you mean the cush drive on the rear wheel? just checked, seems pretty tight.

I am still a little intimidated by the valve cover gasket replacement and valve check, some threads say to use the latest part number for the gasket and it should fix the problem, another thread states to add washers to the bolt and one thread has the poster re-milling the whole valve cover down to a different spec. either ways, I am saving this one for last after I work up some more courage. I have never done a valve check or adjustment, let alone remove the valve cover except once on a car.

is part # 11061-0738 the latest design of the gasket? and by "4 ~ Top sub-cover valve gasket" do you mean 11061-0196? (11061A)
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b4da7f8700223e4796018/cylinder-head-cover

* Last updated by: bigjoe87865 on 1/28/2014 @ 8:33 PM *

I can also vouch that the noises you are hearing is just a really dry chain, if you only use chain wax it might not be getting in far enough, try using 90 weight oil on the chain (yes it'll fling off, blah blah blah, but it lubes the chain a lot better).

The head cover gasket and the valves are really easy to do, just time consuming as there's a lot of stuff in the way. It'll save you probably about $1,500 doing it yourself and really the worst part is just make sure the timing chain doesn't skip a tooth (use Rook's trick of using a bungee cord to keep tension on the chain, and mark the cam sprockets to the chain and you're good there).

If you think about it, the seeping from the valve cover really isn't much more of an issue than cosmetics, some people obsess over a perfectly clean bike, mine's doing the same thing, has been for a couple of years, don't care. I bought my bike to ride, not to clean :)

That being said, I DID check the valves and replace the gasket this winter to try and get rid of that leak as it is annoying, and god help you if you park on my driveway and your vehicle leaks!

See the 92055 in red? This is the washer fixer threads you read about. That may be another leak to address. Add those to the list. The design was revised in red part numbers. That top plain washer was to squeeze more rubber down on the 92055. That red-revise was addressed along with the v-c gasket. You will receive the upgraded parts, so no washer mod needed or thinking you can close the vise jaws down with nothing in between them, even standing on the lever for more squeezing down it still will leak...lol.

Yes, nomenclature for cushdrive rubbers = Sprocket carrier rubbers.
Yes, 4 new 061's. Anything with rubber = replace with new. Baby is getting long in the tooth and it's heat cycling the supple out of them.

This is a one shot deal as in how many times will you use a 1/2" air gun in your lifetime, and one fat mm socket? A mechanic is everyday.
1. Know a mechanic with an air drill and mm socket sizes?
2. Truck the bike to the dealer and have the mechanic run it off for how much? Then go back to tighten it?
3. See if a metric car dealer can buzz it off for a dozen doughnuts?
4. Want anything done do it yourself is to Sears on down for an air compressor, gun, socket.
5. You'll just break your balls with a breaker bar. Look at the angle dangle this way. Socket is 'line direct' thru that counter shaft. Breaker bar brings in the Y factor is the load is now down upon the shaft, you entered another variable to creep in. You had zero load on the bending of that spline end, let alone how many times you'll sheer that nut rounding it off trying. I'd eliminate that Yanking of the Y angle times the 4 suggestions above.

Intimidation wise, follow Nightmare's suggestions. Read Rook's valve how-to. Use this thread as your follow-thru. Use us as your 2nd eyes over your shoulders watching. Challenge use with questions you think can go a few ways and listen to the pool of experience to choose the best approach you are not intimidated by.

Here are my de-intimidation fighters = A roll of Blue Tape. Think about it. A panel has to come off. A bolt and a washer kept that part on. It does have a hole for it on the panel somewhere? I have blue tape to hold the bolt thru the plastic, I lose zero parts, plus I know where they go... Oops, senior moment, I can go to the other side of the bike I did not disassemble and recheck where that bolt went in the panel? Something like that.

That camera = You can never get enough shots of so many angles to one part on the bike, or an assembly of many parts combined. The need of a torque wrench for the cam reinstall. Feeler gauges. Make a list. Can't find that socket, follow a tool truck on its way to the next stop of the day. Ask what day the tool man shows up at the local car dealer?

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b4da7f8700223e4796018/cylinder-head-cover

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Check the chain stretch across 21 pins. If you ar eon the 3rd mark the chain about used up.
Drive Chain Wear Inspection

•Remove the chain cover (see Drive Chain Removal in the •Final Drive chapter).
Rotate the rear wheel to inspect the drive chain for dam- aged rollers, and loose pins and links. If there is any irregularity, replace the drive chain.
•Lubricate the drive chain if it appears dry. Stretch the chain taut by hanging a 98 N (10 kg, 20 lb)
•weight [A] on the chain. Measure the length of 20 links [B] on the straight part [C] of the chain from the pin center of the 1st pin to the pin center of the 21st pin. Since the chain may wear unevenly, take measurements at several places. If any measurements exceed the service limit, replace the chain. Also, replace the front and rear sprockets when the drive chain is replaced.
Drive Chain 20-link Length Standard: 317.5 ? 318.2 mm (12.50 ? 12.53 in.)
Service Limit: 323 mm (12.7 in.)

CHAIN SLACK ADJUSTMENT

your front sprocket looks like its past used up to me. here are pics of a new one here.
DRIVE CHAIN AND SPROCKETS REPLACEMENT

I can't say what the clunking is all about but maybe it's that front sprocket.

The valve cover leak is a common problem. The washer fix should help if it does't solve the problem completely. Replace the gasket and ringO washers with the updated parts when you check valve clearance.
WASHER FIX

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Hey Hub, that part number 92055, do they go into the valve cover (and when inserted look flush) or do they sit on top which would make the bolt sit higher? Do you know what they changed on that part?

oh and bigjoe, regarding the rear axle nut, it will be on pretty tight, I've tried to remove the nut using a breaker bar before (bike on a spool stand) and stop as I end up lifting the front end of the bike with the force I'm having to apply (still didn't break the nut loose).

If you can't get your hands on an impact gun (check harbor freight or other automotive stores and keep your eyes out for a sale) and you want to try the breaker bar, I'd recommend getting a second set of hands to help hold the bike in place.

... or do they sit on top which would make the bolt sit higher?

Correct. The bolt would more or less fit the same height say? It might be the webbing design on the face of the rubber? Maybe 3 rings around the rubber? Squeeze down, that means it will take the oil 3 times to jump over 3 rings to seep out. It would be like laying a board over a mountain ridge and now squeeze down on 3 ridges. The oil has to fill in between those ridges 3 times say before exiting the outer lip of the 955. And it can't be more than adding less than a half a mm of rubber thickness to the updated washer? So height is mute to minor to stayed the same, either changed a design flaw pad wise or height to the rubber pad.

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Cool, I am going to get my hands on an impact gun. Decided its not worth the hassle with the breaker bar. Nightmare: I was talking about the front sprocket regarding the breaker bar. I have already loosened the axle nut in the past with a breaker and no issues. I just leave it on the side stand instead of the rear stand, gives more weight to counter the force applied with the breaker.

Still shopping around for the best deal on a chain and sprocket set. Ebay has very few options for the zx14 compared to my last bike a gsxr. I want to stay with stock 17T 41T gearing too. Buying from an oem supplier like bikebandit is pretty pricey though. They charge around $290 for just a stock chain and $50 for a sprocket. Ebay has a kit with JT sprockets and DID VX chain for $172. but it is a VX chain and not a ZVM-X. $150 for JT sprockets and JT chain but I am not so sure how good a JT chain, the sprockets are good and are an OEM supplier for hondas.

$150 JT kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/JT-530-X-Ring-KAWASAKI-ZX-14-ZX14-06-CHAIN-AND-SPROCKET-KIT-OEM-or-custom-/161155702511?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2585a0deef&vxp=mtr

$172 DID chain + JT sprocket kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/DID-530-VX-Chain-JT-Sprocket-Kit-fits-Kawasaki-ZX14-AFS-A7F-C8F-06-11-17t-41t-/390571682398?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aefe2ea5e&vxp=mtr

regarding the VCGs, I might just give Rook's washer How-to a try, seems a lot easier than pulling it all off, doing a clearance check and replacing all the gaskets. I felt the gaskets with my finger nail on the leaky side and dry side, They feel pretty fresh and supple, not dry and crumbly. my finger nail did not leave a mark on it. So after reading Rooks thread, looks to be just removing only the bolts, add a washer and tighten it back up and hope for the best.

* Last updated by: bigjoe87865 on 1/29/2014 @ 7:49 PM *

.@rook..good look with the info!...i was actually gonna ask you about removing flies--is it really a big difference?..mine is the 07zx14.

No insult intended...I know this is very elementary but it has almost happened to me a couple times.....be VERY careful when you wrench on the rear wheel or sprocket. The bike seems to be easier to lever over from that location. I have lifted mine up on one spool with it on the rear stand, even. Pay special attention to what angle and direction (lifting or pressing down) you are wrenching.

I think there is no finer chain than the EK ZZZ. Stronger than stock and weighs a tiny bit less. Vortex alumoinum are the lightest rear sprocket if you are shooting for weight reduction. They ware faster but it will last you at least a couple years.

So after reading Rooks thread, looks to be just removing only the bolts, add a washer and tighten it back up and hope for the best.

Yes. Elementary again...be sure your torque wrench is calibrated so that you do not over torque the cover bolts. The aluminum block threads will strip if you overtighten. The front left bolt is hard to get a torque wrench on. I had to use an extension. The OEM washer with the rubber pads (ringOs) will probably stick to the top of the cover after you take out the bolts.

Some people have had success just adding the washers to the two left hand head cover bolts. I feel it's better to go even tension on all the bolts so I did all 6 with washers. Also, there is a tightening sequence so I like the idea of taking all off and re torquing all.

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When you search for a head cover gasket, search for '08-'11. The older part was supeceded and since the fit is exactly the same, most believe the newer part# represents a better gasket.

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Also check the ringOs. I believe they also have a new part # and they should be replaced anyway. The screws are the same.

Engine sealant is required to install a new gasket. The kawasakibond that they suggest is $60/tube.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/30/2014 @ 5:47 AM *

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I have been using Permatex Moto-Seal. $8 a tube and works just as well as any of the dealer-branded 'bonds or even Hylomar.

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That front sprocket is not just 'hooked'...the trough has been elongated...this may be what you're hearing as the chain slips in that trough.It's done...definitely.Probably the chain now as well.Better be safe than sorry and replace all three this time around.Lots of grindage(metal shavings/dust) on the front chain guard....bad.Lots of heat...bad.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 2/1/2014 @ 9:08 PM *

I would keep a steel rear sprocket on there. You will get a lot more life out of it. If you get an OEM service manual and look at rook's tutorials, as long as you know your way around a tool box you can probb. do all the work you need by yourself.

Hey guys, I finally am getting around to doing this... just haven't had time to work on the bike so it sat.

have a new chain now and tools to do this job. Just have not decided on the sprockets. I want to stick with stock gearing so it is just a matter of which brand sprockets to go with. Don't want anything crazy expensive, Don't care about being lightweight.

Ebay has front and rear JT sprockets for $52 shipped. Are JT's a good brand? I also see sunstar just a few bucks more than the JT so I am considering those as well. Vortex and Supersprox are double or triple the price so haven't looked at those much

The main concern I have now is I have read about the OEM front sprockets having a rubber damper on it. How much of a difference will there be if I don't have that damper? JT front costs $17 shipped and an OEM front costs $40 +shipping.
I have a fairly loud exhaust, but some posts say that not having the damper will cause vibrations on the pegs..so I am not sure.

* Last updated by: bigjoe87865 on 3/18/2014 @ 3:17 PM *

Option 1:

My bike is an '06. I'm going to keep it for a long time, do not want a horror story about engine cases being taken out. I'm going to run stock parts. I have to pull the swing arm and set that back up to speck or I start cracking frames. I can go to sleep at night, wake up and hammer the bike, pop the clutch, do all crazy things, it's like a brand new bike all over again.

Option 2:

My bike is getting up there, but can last over 100k miles. I better buy some heavy duty parts and at least be on par with stock parts or thru the cases I go. I'm going run a crush style link, buy the tool to crush but not crack the master link pins. I used steel sprockets like someone suggested so they last a little longer than aluminum say.

Option 3:

Hey, if you looked at this bike, she flopped over, I let someone ride it and it crashed. So I shaker canned the plastic. Who cares it still runs. Oh shit the parts I have to shell out for stock, I'm going to buy the cheapest parts I can find. I'll take the crap shoot I use a master link with a clip and hope I have the right direction going on that or I'm going to eat a case will be the buy in the cheap seats in that case or scenario.

I think the noise singing around the sprocket is like a noise deadening feature. A link comes around and hits the pad so it's quiet on the landing. I would think there have been tons of sprocket changes thru the years and this is the first time I've heard a buzz thru the pegs... Especially to the farther peg that is away from the sprocket.

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Oh I definitely am not trying to run subpar parts on the bike. Bought a quality ek chain with rivet master. And sticking with steel sprockets. the cbr guys seem love jt steel sprockets, that and their price was the main reason I considered them.

But on this forum few people have mentioned the OEM front has a rubber damper on it that prevents a buzz or whine sound and I wanted to know if that sound is as serious as some make it to be. If it is, I will get an OEM sprocket.

I have a slight whine that I hear from my aftermarketengine sprocket, mostly decel, I think. I did not hear it at first but after some wearing in its there at a certain rpm. I do not consider it objectionable at all. Although my exhaust is really loud, I'm not sure the whiney sprocket would have caught my attention had I not read others comments about the sound. If you're bike is pretty quiet, maybe it will be more of an issue. I imagine the noise is more pronounced if you go to a 16T front with no noise dampener. Then you have the chain spinning a smaller arch over engine sprocket and more noise.

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So, I tried to do this a few days ago and only got half the job done.

The front sprocket nut was on too tight, could not get it off, used a snap-on impact and a pneumatic impact and then a breaker bar with a long pipe. tried all 3 methods with a 27mm socket and it has almost rounded off the nut. Then tried with a set of vicegrips and long pipe on the narrow outer edge of the nut and it pretty much bent the narrow end.
we gave up and did the rear sprocket and chain.

I am not going to ride it till the front has been changed.

Second minor issue is, we ended up using 117 links with the stock gearing 17t/41t Looked like 116links was too tight. with 117 links and proper tension, the axle indicator is on the 3rd line. Should I go back and remove one more link?

I ordered a new nut, washer and master link for now.

* Last updated by: bigjoe87865 on 4/1/2014 @ 1:59 PM *