1+ Abort
You have this thing called CAN-COM. Pg. 1-16. That means communication routing. Electrically speaking, you need to wind a certain amount of [break up the frequency the wires produce] when electricity travels thru/over the wires. The formula is how many loops around these two wires per foot(?) so the signals do not clash or bump into each other, but pass&go/abort kind of traveling thru the wires. The meter will go catawampiss, if not self-code itself losing a wire. Pull the ECU, turn the key on, watch it self-code w/out the brick.
Notice the frequency connection as to know to capture the priority signal and abort the low level frequency. These examples of the low levels are the water temp or air temp. High level is vacuum intake and crank speed are those examples.
When you read more in between the lines of said page, we begin to open a can of worms called, 'backup.' Sure, you could run all the priority wires like spark/crank/cam/injectors/fuel pump and more. Then you'd have to think about the other low priority signals lost.
Rook, a computer harness has 3 wires for each sensor say.
1. 5v ground wire.
2. Wire to ECU.
3. Wire to dash panel.
Whereas a 12v system can be looked at as using 2 wires.
a. The 12v ground wire from the one prong.
b. The headlight bulb and its 2 prongs.
c. The wire to the battery source off the other side of the bulb's prong.
d. (think key switch so you can turn the battery-source off).
Look at all the 5v wires you'll need to separate from connecting onto a 12v wired ground... better known as a J-box (factory book term for junction of grounds being either 12 or 5v). See the connection? (pun intended)
Lost means, 'backup' = Not @ FULL Power. Are you going to tear up a wire harness just to thin out a few wires and sensors not needed? Look at how careful I have to be so I do not lose the integrity of the pins or pinch a wire with one of those blue connectors? That's the Squidcityvillage ShittyIT working on that computer bike.
Like I said a long time ago... When I saw the capture of both spark and fuel being a sadass frequency, I think I cried myself to sleep many a night. I no longer could advance the timing or change the fueling. I was locked out.
So to get into the fueling and timing side of it, look at the pc, the flash, these are the things needed to change things. And if you go too far over/under that frequency, guess watt? 'Backup.'
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time