Colorright should provide you with a perfect match. If you do not level the scratches first, they will still be visable. Also, I think it would be a good idea to scuff sand the whole part and prime it before applying color. They sell ultra fine sand paper for automotive use at my Advance Auto store. Read the prep instructions on the can for sanding recomendations if you go this route. Also, it goes without mentioning, Colorright clearcoat should be applied over new paint. I think spraypaint ans especially clearcoat might be hard to apply evenly. It may teer or have ripples. I'd consider trying it if the bike was older and you did some practice. You can always wipe it off with acetone before it dries hard. It is impossible to do a small area with a spray can so I don't think it would make sense to just try to hit the scratches; you would need to cover the whole part.
I fixed up the undebelly pitting from a 0mph roll over but I did not use spray. I used a small bottle of touch up paint (colorright sells them) to fill the holes and build up a slight bump. I then used a rubbing compound applied with a rag pulled over a flat screwdriver tip as a mini sanding block (I think you could use 1000 grit sand paper for this step to faster, better effect, maybe). When almost level, I polished with liquid claybar (there is a similar product called Zymol that might work as well). I did not clearcoat the specks. Final step was to apply a paste polish (I think a good wax would work just as good). When I got the fairings back on the bike, you literally cannot tell the spots are there. I mean you can even look up close and they are very hard to detect. There are a few pin holes in the patches from bubbles in the touch up paint and some of the pits have a tiny ring around them. I can't even see the repairs and I know just where to look. This was a very time consuming process but It was less drastic of a move than repainting the whole surface with a rattle can. I think doing the underbelly would be best place to start and get the technique down. However, be prepared to spend a lot of time since this will be your first attempt. I think I spent about 30 hours but I am a real perfectionist. Unless you are interested in learning a new detaling trick it might be more cost effective to just buy new uderbelly. Side panels with front directional are expensive so repairing might be more worth a try.
If your interested in knowing the exact products and lots of details about technique and so forth. PM me. I will post answers here. Could try to post pics of repairs but I really doubt they would be visable to photography.
Rook
Rook
'08 MIDNIGHT SAPPHIRE BLUE Now Deceased
