Hubster, I'm thinking about picking up a 2024 Aprilia RS660 Tribute, everything I am hearing they are an absolute blast to ride, superlight, agile and just the right amount of power, especially for a track bike build. Thoughts, comments?

Now that thing is pretty. Kruz, if you have the room, the wallet, and the time to ride it, I'd pull the trigger and start collecting the gear for trackday.

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/19/2024 @ 3:17 PM *

Ok with Hub's blessing I am going to get myself one, I am done with overpowered superbikes and the horsepower race, want something this time just a bit more relaxing to ride.

One question I did have for you Hub, notice that the rear shock is direct drive, no linkage, pros/cons?

* Last updated by: Kruz on 1/19/2024 @ 7:12 PM *

Oh boy Kruz, this is past my pay grade. I can only look at it at their 3 triangle points since day one. The linkage is a way to raise the swing arm a certain height and have the movement for the arch travel. The shock to swing arm to frame is just another design in the evolution mounting the shock.

Pro: Track talking wise, it's one rear shock to buy.
Con: It's going to take a special frame mount swapping out spring rates and or shocks.

Track wise specific? Front springs and a racing rear shock. Closed coursed tracks will have the hot asphalt moved up when the cars leave the apex, Yeah, production shocks will do it OK. But performance shocks and front springs is less punishing. Big difference even in my slowass days. Speeds relative, yes? Sill applies.

Live a little and try a set of slicks too.

Pretty much it. Springs Tires And Balls Is All.

Hub,you are Da Man!

* Last updated by: Kruz on 1/21/2024 @ 9:08 AM *

Beautiful bike. I'd think you'd be on it more aggressively than your larger bikes but it will definitely be something different.

Kruz she sure is a good looking lady ???????

Thanks folks, it doesn't look like it was meant to be. I was going to pick it up this next weekend but then disaster struck. I took the carbon fiber M front wheel from my 2020 BMW S1000RR into Freedom Powersports on Saturday morning to have the front tire changed and the tire tech completely destroyed the wheel. He didn't pay any attention to the rim label warning about the location of the TPMS sensor and smashed into it with the bead breaker destroying the $400 TPMS and cracking out the rim around the tire valve. I got home and the tire was already flat, see photo below of the leakage around the base of the valve core which fixes the TPMS sensor inside the wheel. Tiny radial cracks in the carbon fiber wheel rim render the $2800 wheel scrap. It looks like with all the replacement parts plus labor about $3600 total in damage, the brake rotors are the only thing salvageable. I spoke with the Service Manager this morning and he basically said there is nothing they can do for me except try to get me a discount on a new wheel assembly but never heard back from him after that. It looks like I am totally screwed.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 1/31/2024 @ 8:40 PM *

I spoke with the Service Manager this morning and he basically said there is nothing they can do for me except try to get me a discount on a new wheel assembly but never heard back from him after that. It looks like I am totally screwed.

Other thing is buy your own tire changer for less than this blunder would have cost.

Or, OR, where that tire is leaking at the stem to rim, cough, the good old E6000 to the rescue. If that's all that is wrong with it, the sensor can be glued back on too? Something like break the bead of the tire. Zip-tie the tire as to compress the beads together so it exposes the plug to glue around.

Thanks Hub.... I chose to go with your option 2. The dealer agreed to sell me a factory new BMW OEM carbon fiber wheel for their cost at $1994 complete with everything but the brake rotors. Best price I could find online was $3770 + tax and shipping from a BMW dealer for the same wheel. So I am taking a big hit but it could have been a lot worse. I need to locate a tire changing machine next.

Well, if the tire changing employee is still there, hope he learned something next time you walk in with a wheel.

I'm only saying a tire changing machine, because I had a hell of a time with the bagger's rear tire. Needed some muscle for that 30+ year old tire. I'll see what this fresh used tire does when it's time to come off. It's been all in-house from day one. I've been popping tires off bikes with 4 spoons, tire rim protectors, and a 25 gallon bulk oil drum with a garden hose [cut down the center] that goes around the edge of the opened end. No tire work, it acts the garage garbage can.

Bought an old steel table that came with a vice many decades ago. Vice turns out wide enough to pop the HD 16" rims to break the beads with. Saves a lot of room needing a compressor for the tire changer I'm thinking of. But if a vice, a few sets of spoons of different lengths, a prop to set the rim on, saves a lot of space and gets the job done for less money.

Balance wise, there are a few balancing stands to choose from. Don't need a dynamic spin when the tire trucks show up for a national race. They use the same basic static stands. Collect those and you're in business.

Signed,
"If You Want It Done Right.... "

Thanks Hub point taken, looking at professional tire changing machines, with the sheer number of tires I go through in 12 months it will pay for itself in a few years and like you said, this one stuff up would have paid for it....

* Last updated by: Kruz on 2/3/2024 @ 8:25 AM *

Long ago I bought a No-Mar tire changer which was not cost efficient for the few tires I go thru but then I got involved with street racers and weekend road racing warriors that went thru some tires. I was charging $15 for mount and balance if they brought me the wheel/tire. No-Mar paid for itself in one summer. There are a few out there now that are compact for garage room and some that go in their own carry bag and probably easier on the wheel than the No-Mar.
I have seen what the dealers and indy shops do to wheels so if the wheels are gonna get broken or messed up I would rather mess up my own wheels and only me to blame.

Good luck sir.

Thanks Lytnin, I'll check out the Nomar product and other tire changing machines. This has me not wanting anyone working on my stuff anymore. I have basically agreed to eat half the cost of a new wheel for their f'up but now they are telling me 4-6 weeks to get a wheel, more on that later.

I'll make this short. Bought a new X-6 Hustler. Got some bug up my ass to make it faster. Go back to the dealer, a punk salesman fucked with the air screws. My buddy and I jump on the bike, take it to a section not opened yet was part of the new 287 going thru NJ.

Flat out and the thing seizes. I pull the clutch in, guy is shaking like shit and says, 'thanks for saving my life.'
Segway a few years later, I see the same salesmen at the collage I attended. Anyway, that was the last person that would ever touch any bike I would own from then on.

Black nail polish to cover the patina tire changes, if I'm in anal mode at the time.

I have a similar true story that almost tops that, my father bought my brother and I a Suzuki Trailhopper minibike when I was about 13 years old, my first motorcycle. It was running rough, most likely due to a fouled sparkplug and a friend of mine who was an "expert", cough,cough, came over to "tune it up". He popped out a rubber plug on the side of the rotary valve induction cover and begin to turn a screw counter clockwise with all of the precision of an open heart surgeon as I watched on in complete awe, right up until the engine quit running and the carburetor fell off dangling by the throttle cable. He had backed out the screw that mounted the tiny Mikuni carburetor, needless to say that was the last time I employed his services.

Hubster, I went in to North Dallas BMW Motorcycles yesterday to pick up an oil filter and oil for my S1000RR and happened to tell the parts guy about my predicament with the damaged wheel at Dealer "X" and how it would take 4-6 weeks to get a new wheel for my BMW through them. He asked me for my VIN number and in five minutes ran it through BMW USA and found seven of the wheels in stock in their North American warehouse with three business day delivery. What do you think is going on? Dealer "X" that broke my wheel is saying they can get me a new replacement wheel complete with everything but brake rotors for $1994.... but 4-6 weeks delivery, that is the best deal they will offer. My local BMW dealer says about $4500 and three days to get one. What is going on here do you think, am I getting the run around from "X", you know kick the can down the road for 6 weeks and then another excuse and then another until I just give up and buy the wheel myself?

That is somewhat strange. You'd think they'd call dealer Y [bmw dlr] close to the same town, or county they are in and order there. No franchise so they are like an independent shop with 10 or 20% off retail. Then the thing is, no way would X order and get it for cost. Maybe 20% off retail?

Unless the dealer principals are buddies and a bail me out scenario would be buying at cost. Then there is the wait of 6 weeks with plenty in North America?

Rather than wait 6, say you bought some parts at the dealer and asked if there were any wheels in America, and he said could get one here in 3 days. Here's another thing to think about. Dealer level delivery is now on par with Honda, meaning, they had this dealer inventory of the country and could find one at a dealer. Plus any service parts ordered for a job/warranty were no more than waiting 2 days for it.

Honda had their shit together way back when. Anyway, the next thing is to wait it out and see what happens. Then hear their side of it and have the 7 wheels in the country to answer back with that. Then there's; make a few protest signs and I'll come out and we'll protest this business that needs to leave the town. I'll hold this one.

So the guy turned the screw so hard the carb popped off? JK, but it sounds like the website gurus [experts] I run into.

Hubster, brand X dealer that broke my wheel and RideNow BMW in Fort Worth are sister companies and the service managers are buddies. Soooo, my guess is brand X is getting that wheel at BMW dealer net cost through the buddy connection and it stays off the books or fly under the radar. If sew, I'm all down with that butt why 6 weeks to deliver if you or I can buy the same wheel in three business days from any BMW dealer, makes no cents? I need answers
from Brand X, is there that much markup on these parts, $1994 to $3700? Sounds like highway robbery?

BTW, he turned that screw CCW, lefty loosey until the carb literally fell off. That was a little reed valve two stroke 50cc mill as I recall. The guy in question is my oldest friend, actually had dinner at his house last night over in Fort Worth; but politely declined any future offers to "tune" my bikes for most obvious reasons...lol!

* Last updated by: Kruz on 2/4/2024 @ 8:44 PM *

I have no idea of this time delay? Like you said, off the monthly? But that still means BMW still needs to be paid. How are they going to fluff the books? Either way those are big boy toy prices, Kruz. Yea, I was goofing which direction. Definitely lean was why he turned it open [assuming screw is past the slide] for rich. It was sucking air between the carb and head. He did plug it back in and got it running or scratched his head and walked away, and left you dangling on the cable?

Going in tomorrow morning to speak face to face with "Brand X" Service Manager and find out why the 4-6 weeks wait time for wheels that are in plentiful supply through BMW network?

Watt am I getting and why the D Lay???

That Trailhopper incident was 56 yrs ago, pushed the carb back on and retightened the screw, don't recall the final out come or what ever happened to that bike.

My next bike was a 1970 AJS 370 Stormer motocrosser a few years later, watt a machine, too much for a young kid to ride and had Lucas electrics that were always blowing ignition coils and condensers, gorgeous machine though and way ahead of it's time. Note rear shocks forward mounted and canted forward for long travel, chain adjustment by an eccentric cam on the swingarm pivot, over the top expansion chamber, forward mounted front axle for greater ground clearance and travel and this was 1970, all features that became standard on many motocross machines in the years to come. Polished aluminum fenders were gorgeous until you fell over the first time and then call Preston Petty for some plastic aftermarket units. Engine was a Norton Villiers Starmaker 250cc road racing mill punched out to 369cc and putting out a whopping 25 rear wheel HP on the Cycle World dyno with a torque curve as flat as a billiard table. It was a beauty but impossible for a young kid to keep it running for long.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 2/5/2024 @ 7:45 PM *

It's done, total damage to my VISA card with everything including the new wheel, sales tax, misc. busted parts, graft etc. was $3691.10...

Dealer that broke it ended up paying $0 out of pocket, discounted the new wheel from a $3770 msrp to $3000, that was their total contribution to the disaster they created!

Busted ass TPMS

Bike finally going back together....

I feel for ya, Kruz, I look at those as tuition money working on machinery, and/or someone's doing farming it out.

You can look at the rim as a take-off and becomes a spare. Enough rubber and steel type rim valves to choose from. At least it won't limp the bike without it. Just keeps a light on.

I am assuming the only way to get the sensor is to buy the rim? Bad bmw

Here ya go Hub, here's the inside of the wheel looking at the sensor seating surface. You can see no cracks around the hole but the sensor displaced some material, kind of a gouge in the carbon fiber. I don't know if a new O-ring seal and sensor would fix the leak or not? On the outside surface there appears to be several tiny cracks in the clear coat surface finish that look to be cosmetic only, not structural, no apparent displacement where the valve body and O-ring seal seat. There has to be a way to fix this, after all it's a $3700 item? Possibly spot face the sensor seating surface on the inside of the wheel to restore it?

Hubster wrote: "Enough rubber and steel type rim valves to choose from."

Now there is a thought Hub, get completely rid of the entire BS TPMS sensor and won't have this problem again. Afterall, I only rode motorcycles for 51 year without tire pressure monitoring and somehow seemed to have survived. In the meantime I have to take the bike back in to BMW dealer to have the new sensor paired to the head up display, which is another long trip to BMW and more expense.

I just went in to Vehicle Settings menu and turned the TPMS system "off". Not sure if I'll still get a display warning though for a sensor failure though.....arggh, modern motorcycle technology!

* Last updated by: Kruz on 2/11/2024 @ 9:30 AM *

I see that. Possible the leak was thru the snapped body and out there? Hard to say at this point. like I said, E6000 to the rescue. I wouldn't bore the hole any larger and cause a stress crack. Or drill if have to, then radius the edges of both sides.

Neighbor is piling 3-4k priced pedal bikes in the garage like your fleet. See a really thin tire stem needing a matching air pump nozzle. Back to the Meguyveer in me is to cut that tube stem out like a round patch, glue that patch and lay it in the rim and let it setup.

Hindsight now. So I'm assuming you can't get the sensor without buying the rim, correct? Because if you could get the sensor alone, the E6000 would have filled that flat spot.