So is it higher cold or hot?
Generically, heat expands. As far a higher level when hot, can't say for sure that much heat and top end oil returning after a few minutes can be higher.
My deal is not measuring the 3.?qts with new filter and pour it in. My way is to fill the filter with whatever I poured in before installing, start it see the oil light go off then stop it. Then note within seconds if the level is between the lines. I then add if it is lower at the bottom line. I top it off just at the bottom line.
Then in the morning I know all has dripped off from the splash lube, and the top end is dry. That's all she wrote as static drop goes. Now I top it off to the level in the morning.
Some owner's manual tell you before riding to check oil. This manual says to upright the bike (cold) and note level is between the lines. So cold is the check. Higher level hot? Who cares, it showed cold-correct at the upright.
You know my experience of one of my beater break-in bikes dropped the level under the window, way before the 3k oil change. I lost power and turned around one day. Went thru the drill of checking for brake drag, wheel bearing seize, chain links. All passed. Why I looked at the oil level and saw no oil, no oil light at the dash, could change the power with a lower volume.
So short of the raggedge of overfill that soaks the air box, high level more helps than hurts.
Signed,
ASS-factor factored in
__________
My bad... more clicking the right side, [current date/time] not the left side [subject page] to see what I missed.
:Edit:
Forgot to address the aeration. If we are saying bubbles hugging the window, this sounds like a failed pickup seal at the oil pump path. I think if we are talking about the pickup tube is cracked above the oil level. Get it?
This is typical with automatic car trans. Mechanic is too lazy to replace the seal that comes with the pump filter.
* Last updated by: Hub on 7/21/2023 @ 11:53 AM *
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