To me, the proverbial, "drop a swiss watch" and now how can you tell time? Like, fork axle times the pressure it took to bend forks and upper/lower crowns?
Axle: First you remove the whole front end off the frame. Then you assemble the front end on the bench. You have a set of V-blocks so you can roll the axle running true. True that? No, then buy new.
Upper Crown: Then you lay the upper crown on a surface plate and rock it back and forth to see how bent the pinchers tweaked one way. The other part of the crown moved the other way. Just run your finger across the slit or the pinch halves and one side will not run true to the other side. Hammer out my pinch wave? Nose way, you know I am buying new.
Forks: Here is where you disassemble and measure the same run-out as you did with the bent axle. You could bend the forks back, but they, "S" back in shape. Take a metal coat hanger, bend it past 90°. Now straighten it out. See how you have that chicane or the S wave? Fork that! Buy new.
Lower Crown: Now, with all the parts above on the bench, we will assemble the front end all in the static. So, I am on the axle to both lower forks and those are bolted with wheel and spacers in place. I slide the lower fork down and pinch the lower crowns down. I now lay my upper crown over the forks and see how they lined up. If I lower my upper crown on the forks, to see how much the forks are bent with the lower crown; if I have to force the upper crown to work and not have it fit right down, then the lower crown is bent. The upper crown's center hole and the center stem of the lower crown, do not line up perfect either, but the stem is bent to one side just slightly. I'd be buying a lower crown.
Races: I want the impact of the front end to show me ball indents so bad, it would be a waste not to rebuild the front end complete, knowing the lower crown does not come with any race. I am buying a race set to freshen up the indents to the old races so I do not notch the steering down the road it's hard to keep it straight down the road.
Frame: I am with a magnifying glass, finding weld separation at the neck area. and all about 6 inches back for any other welds that look like they took a hit and bent to one direction, the sheer at the welds would pick that up. I'd buy, not re-bend a frame.
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time