I know there is no way I will finish upgrading my clutch springs, oil pump cover and shift star before storage time. End o the month is about as long as I want to wait. No good reason to ride after October 1 for me and damned near impossible to change oil without getting condensation.

SO--what if I put the 14 up on stands, drain oil and work on my clutch and other stuff in there. I'm slow as hell. This will easily be 6-8 weeks of work with my job and kids and I believe I will have to have the oil pump cover sent to a machine shop to press the gear off the shaft.....no electricity in the storage unit I will use... I can smell lots of work and i just want to do it at a leisurely pace.

Winter will be well underway by the time I'd be done. Not a good time to do an oil change. Can I leave it dry until spring? No condensation with clutch cover off. Will be fastidiously sealed up with plastic and tape between work sessions to prevent dust collecting. Sound ok or should I just wait until Spring to do this work?

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/2/2016 @ 8:41 PM *

Wait until spring. Parts lost, shuffled, etc. Too many months exposed for more dust to enter... wind under door where if covered with the OE = ZERO debris. Bike shop hours on a job is less than a day if not done at lunch time; we clock in at nine. Short of splitting the cases kind of job, we are talking hours to a day if at a snails pace. Storing the bike without oil for a few months does not bring on rust to the unexposed parts. We are talking decades of condensation cycles thru the years to rust things like the starter gear in the engine, lock the rings to their grooves, the one or two valves that are open so the chamber is more exposed to the air/condensation change.

Thanks, Hub. I think you convinced me to go ahead with the work! LOL There won't be any more dust floating in the air in winter than in spring and I tape a mighty airtight dust cover anyway. I don't have to wait to fill the crankcase with oil all winter. Just change the oil with a cheap JASO oil and then drain it. There will be clean oil in the motor up top even if the crankcase is empty while I get the work done. I can pour fresh cold oil into the crankcase when done. Same thing as changing the oil for storage except I'll be doing half of it before the work and the other half after. Still going to be 6-8 weeks but I can't avoid that. I'd definitely would not trust a shop around here especially if they were fast. I wouldn't pass on the learning experience either even though I know there will be problems that will turn hours into days.

Chain lube in a can. Spray the gears and bag'em. Any part on part like the shaft and the clutch basket it rides on say, spray those as a coating that you can't bag. Ball bearings would be the spray coating when oil is not coating them. Stuff like that think out.

* Last updated by: Hub on 9/3/2016 @ 8:02 PM *

Gotcha, Hub. Who knows, I might get this all done a lot sooner than expected because I intend to get started in the next couple weeks. Main concern is no heat, no electricity and no air compressor. Probably going to get cold, definitely going to need to work by flashlight and might need an impact. Them be some real work stoppers but I'll figure it out. I always do. I'm going to sit back and work on it when I can. No stress. I have all winter if need be.