So I pick up my 14 next week and apparently it has the cct startup rattle.
I think I am going with the manual ape cct gizmo, based on what I have read here.

Now I have searched the forum and consulted the book of Rook, but I don't see anything on setting/adjusting the tensioner once it is installed. As well, how often do you need to adjust the tensioner, or is it a one time thing when you install it?

I have a How To Remove Cam Chain Tensioner. APE install is exactly the same as covered but much simpler since you do not need to set any auto adjust spring with an APE. I do not think anyone has done a APE How-To yet but have at 'er if you like. I will be installing mine in a few weeks. I know there are demo on You tube about adjusting the APE tensioner.

ZX-14 adjustment<<CLICK

Do some more searching and asking. I think there is a bit more to it than just feeling the chain. I think I saw a vid where someone adjusted while the bike was running so that the chain was tightened to just where the rattle stopped.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/24/2013 @ 9:53 PM *

remove stock tensioner.Take a flashlight,observe distance to shoe.Take a dowel...slide in till shoe contact(do not force shoe inward).Mark the dowel at the mounting hole flat.Remove dowel...preadjust APE tensioner bolt to match dowel distance(the mark).Insert(with o-ring)into mount hole...tighten down mount bolts.Turn tensioner bolt 1/2 turn in.Start bike.If you hear no rattle,back bolt out until you do hear some.Then,adjust inward till rattle is gone.That's it...tighten lock nut....restart...check for noise.VERY important to back adjuster bolt out until you get some rattle,then back in till it just stops.

Good video...but not necessary to remove the ignition cover and all.Nor to check cam settings.TDC and all that.

"adjusted while the bike was running so that the chain was tightened to just where the rattle stopped"...yep...that's keerect..You will NOT throw the cam gear(s) teeth/chain off if you preadjust as mentioned.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/25/2013 @ 11:17 AM *

Thanks for the info guys.
I'm sure there will be more questions once I actually start riding it.

You do not want to continue 'turning' that adjuster once the rattle goes thinking a little more is better.No.It's only pressing lightly on that shoe....like the spring/oil of the stock one.I never had to readjust mine in 51K miles....when she was sold.

Take a dowel...slide in till shoe contact(do not force shoe inward).Mark the dowel at the mounting hole flat.Remove dowel...preadjust APE tensioner bolt to match dowel distance(the mark).

I will be moving this diagram of resetting the OEM tensioners spring soon so the link to photobucket will be broken in the future. However, it is in my CCT removal How-To.

ANYWAYS, the "shoe" is the red thing I have drawn in. It is a chain guide that pushes the cam chain taught according to how much the CCT (the gray thing I have drawn in)is pushing the shoe inward.

This pic is for OEM CCT installation. You Do NOT remove the valve cover or insert a screwdriver to install an APE.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/25/2013 @ 4:01 PM *

Most excellent!Bravo Rookster;)I don't know if the stock tensioner is pushing on that shoe prior to running...I suspect it is a bit...but good advice my man on pushing the dowel in a tad.Never thought of that really....That chain could only go as far as the adjuster bolt would allow it anyway...so having it 'close' to correct would be ok...it was with mine anyway.Never a prob jumping a tooth at any time.And it made a shitload of noise at my first startup when adjusting;)Best to be quick with that adjustment...If you don't preadjust that deal...you're taking a HUGE risk.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/26/2013 @ 11:18 AM *

If you don't preadjust that deal...you're taking a HUGE risk.

Yes, I would sure think so. jumping time would prolly mean instant destruction.

I would be tempted to back the adjuster bolt out a bit with the motor running to find the exact spot where the rattle starts. Then tighten it in just far enough and lock it in place. Do you think that it would be better to just go with the setting you measure with the dowel or would you try to refine that any further with the engine running

I set mine with the dowel...which was actually touching the shoe....and then tightened the mount bolts.I gave her a 1/2 turn...I think...then started the engine.It was rattling...so I immediately turned in some pressure.Soon as it stopped...I backed out till it started again...and adjusted in till she stopped...locked her down...was fine.Having that bolt touching the shoe...it should be fine as far as worrying about too much slap...mine didn't slap excessively,no more than when the stocker first clacks at startup.But you can turn in a bit if yer worried.Just make sure that you adjust outward if it's not clacking...just far enough to get some noise...then you'll know it's very close to being right...and just adjust inward from there.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/26/2013 @ 9:35 PM *

make sure that you adjust outward if it's not clacking...just far enough to get some noise...then you'll know it's very close to being right...and just adjust inward from there.

Got the APE in this afternoon. Sure was nice to start the 14 up and listen to her purrrrr.

I tried the APE suggested technique of installing with the adjuster all the way out and then turning it in until resistance is felt.

Also tried your technique with the dowel, Grn. Pushed it in until the chain guide up against the chain. Marked the dowel with a pencil. The length was precisely the same as that of the adjuster bolt after adjusting by feel....so your dowel technique is good. There is no reason a guy couldn't use the dowel technique to pre-adjust and then back off a half turn to feel tension release. TIghten back up a half turn so the pre-adjustment is back where you had it. That way you'd be sure you had the pre-adjust correct from the dowel measurement and also by feeling the tension.

One thing I have a slight issue with, I noticed the tensioner tightened a full half turn MORE as I adjusted the tension bolt with my fingertips while manually rotating the engine 360 degerees past TDC. That is to say, TDC cylinders 1 , 4 seems to be the tight spot in the chain. A half turn of the motor to TDC 2 , 3 = an additional half turn of the adjuster bolt inward. That is the loosest spot. The next 180 degrees back to 1,4 TDC there is no change in the tension. What I am saying is it is NOT a bad idea open the crankcase sensor cover so you can experience what is happening with the cam chain as you turn the motor by hand. Also, seems wise to first turn the motor by hand with the APE newly installed. If by chance anything was seriously off kilter and the chain jumped a tooth or two, you would not blow your engine which I am pretty certain you would if the thing jumps time with the motor running.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/4/2013 @ 5:27 PM *

You have to do what you think is right...long as it's in line with the procedure.I never bothered to find TDC...I just did it as I said....I may be wrong...I got criticized for doing it the way I did...but the instuctions from APE at the time mentioned nothing about timing...only the adjusting.So I went with that.Worked most excellent for me.
I realize that an unhindered chain slap could jump a tooth...but I never allowed that to happen...I had tension on there with the preadjust.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/4/2013 @ 7:07 PM *

There aren't really tight and loose spots in the chain- just parts of the run where the valve springs are pushing back on the cam lobes creating tension in some degrees of engine rotation and slack in others. Adjusting by rattle is best once you have a base setting using either Grn's dowel method, or if you have the valve cover off, by checking slack between the cam sprockets. I used the latter method since I was doing a valve check when I installed the APE. Upon startup, there was some rattle, so I adjusted inward until it ceased.

the instuctions from APE at the time mentioned nothing about timing...

Even though I found looser spots in the chain (from valve sprigs tension and cam lobes)I ended up adjusting mine to the initial setting I found which is at the tightest spot (requiring the least tension form the adjuster). The chain was not rattling so I backed it off. I backed it off even looser than the initial setting and I started to hear some noise. Still not a rattle but there was some noise detectable. So I rolled it ahead to where it sounded quietest and locked it. Never actually heard a true rattle. I'm afraid to loosen it to the point where I might find the rattle with the motor running. I know it rattled all the time with the OEM tensioner but it freaks me out too much to loosen the thing past the point where I found all the parts touching.

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/4/2013 @ 10:14 PM *

I most likely got lucky then...cause when I first started her up...she was clackin like a SOB...I had my hand on the adjuster bolt...so I just started turnin...fast mind you.It worked okay.It could only slap so far with that bolt in there....that's what saved it I suppose....it certainly wasn't adjusted right at the very start of my install.

Don't know, Grn. I'd estimate if you turned it a half turn or less past your initial setting, you were pretty close to right on the money from the start. Also, everyone's machine is different. Some rattle incessantly and others like mine quite after 15 seconds at start up. Mine got worse after I removed the OEM CCT and did my valve adjustment.

Mine actually had xero rattle with the stock tensioner, but I figured it might develop at some point, so I added the APE when I had the opportunity.

I see this is an old treat but it was very useful so I couldnt resist saying some :) i have just read all your ideas here and i'd like to thank you if you still in this forum...I am enlightened...i'll try my 2010 cct installation in a couple of days. thnx guys all the way from Turkey...:)

Glad it helped. If you're going with a manual tensioner, it's pretty easy to install and set. You'll probably never need to adjust it after you set it the first time.