I've had a ZX11 for years and truly enjoyed it. After constantly reading reviews on the ZX14 I finally bought one a few weeks ago. I ended up with a Passion Red 2006 model with 2200 miles on it for $6200. After riding it for a few days and being impressed with the smoothness and stupid power, I took it to our local track expecting record numbers..........lol........... best of the day totally stock was 10.43 @ 140.23 with a 1.86 60 ft...

I weight about 240 suited, and quickly realized how much weight is a factor when racing a bike. Reading so many claims of 9 second performance with a stock bike had me thinking that I could do that without much effort, but that didn't happen for me.

I installed a Power Commander and removed the flies, and lowered the bike about 2" with lowering links and straps and took it back to the track last Saturday.......... made 8 passes in all with the slowest being 10.24 @ 141.11 and the best of 10.10 @ 141.53 with a 1.78 60 ft. The DA was killer for us at about 600 ft but still no 9.99........

I just installed Brocks clutch spacers and plan to remove the air filter for the next trip............ anyone have real world experience with clutch spacers and removing the air filter? I have a 16t front sprocket but don't want to do more than a couple things at a time. Hoping for 9.90's this time out.

* Last updated by: qwiktim on 8/18/2010 @ 2:02 PM *

Those times are realistically pretty good for your size.

The clutch spacers are primarily for holding power. Its to make the clutch a bit stronger so you don't blow through the clutches, usually a problem for higher horsepower bikes OR bikes with bigger riders. Is it going to help your times? Probably not. Is it going to make your clutch live longer? DEFINITELY.

Air filter.. Probably not going to help a whole lot. Maybe a few hundreths.

Don't know what fuel you're running, but from my experience these bikes run BEST on 87 octane. If you can get your hands on some VP race fuels let me know, i've had excellent results with the MR9. (87 octane oxygenated LEADED race fuel). Only problem is you have to buy it in 5 gallon pails and its $21/gallon.

My opinion, go ahead and install that 16t front sprocket. What you've done hasn't made a huge impact. The sprocket WILL. You'll be able to launch without bogging the motor down, which is what you're looking for.

Next thing to do, buy a Brock's alienhead exhaust. Just my opinion, but on a streetbike that will make trips to the track this is the best exhaust to get. If you buy direct from Brock's you'll get a map for your power commander. It is quite pricey, but most exhausts are. You WILL notice a difference.

Thats all for now. Most important thing is to enjoy your new Ninja. Cheers!

Went ahead and put the 16t sprocket on tonight............and yes, I use 87 octane.

Will update progress as soon as I get back to the track.........

those are good times, i wiegh 200 and only once or twice have i seen 9.98 and 9.99, what hurts me is the wheel base is stock and i tend to slip the clucth a little far.
bike has muzzy m10,power commander and dyno tuned, bmc air filter, the rear, lowered alot and strap the front, i run the dunlop q 2 good tire if i release the clutch a little early it will stan up. so my 60's go from 1.65 to 1.70 sump'thn.

* Last updated by: moto on 5/3/2010 @ 7:35 PM *

Update:

Got back to the track and was disappointed to say the least.............. since going 10.10 at 141.53 (6.66 1/8) I've added a 16t front sprocket, Brocks clutch spacers, and removed the air filter at the track................ made 5 passes and the best was 10.18 at 139.93 with a 6.71 1/8............ it only hit 140.xx one time.

Granted, the DA on my 10.10 pass was only about +400 feet, and tonight it was about +2100 feet on my 10.18.

It's easier to launch with the 16t, but don't really care for it anywhere else. Previous best 60 ft was 1.78 and tonight went 1.71 even in muggy air. I think the 17t is going back on, and I'm not going to worry about buying an $80 air filter just yet.

If you calculate corrected for sea level times,

10.10 @ 141.53 at 400 ft is a 10.07 @ 141.77

and the

10.18 @ 139.93 at 2100 ft is a 9.93 @ 143.39

So the question is, did it respond well and get quicker, or not?

* Last updated by: qwiktim on 5/4/2010 @ 7:37 PM *

You've answered your own question my man!

A weather station is a great tool. I wish i had one actually. You know for a fact, that had the DA been the same you would have gone quicker with the 16t front sprocket.

When racing bikes, its the same mentality as racing cars. .1 in the 60' = .2 in the quarter. The launch is imperitave, and if you're improving the launch why go backwards??

Like i said earlier, get a brock's smeg or alienhead. Buy it directly from brock's and you can get his map, tech support, and map support. They are pricey, but i believe with the exhaust you'll be running some 9.70s rather easily at 145+

Ill tell ya like this,
First race last year, we had tremendous air. It was ridiculously fast. My 9.50 package pulled right off the highway and ran a 9.02 at 155.

That was the best air of the year. The rest of the year it was 9.30s and a few dribbles into the .20s, but never ran over 151mph.

It took quite a bit of work, suspension tuning, dyno tuning, weight trimming, etc to get back into the 9.0s, but even then i was running 153-154 mph.

Point in case, air quality is a major factor. You just have the advantage i never had. You know what the real results are, not necessarily what seperate nights show.

On another note, every pass i've made this year has been in muggy air. I'm anxious to see what happens when it gets cleaned up some

Just added Brocks exhaust and Brocks track map........... :-)

* Last updated by: qwiktim on 6/2/2010 @ 7:12 PM *

Now get yourself back to the track with that new exhaust and map (along with the 17t sprocket) and tell us all about it.

BTW, i weigh in at about 15 lbs less suited than you. SWB, Brocks street exhaust, BMC, strapped on PRII's, -1, and I managed a 9.74 @146 / 6.40 @ 118.3 in the 1/8. I'm at sea level basically and the temps last time out were in the upper 70's.

You should be able to improve on your times somewhat. Be patient. It will come.

HELL YES! You'll be amazed at the difference the exhaust and map will make. Lets get some results!

Finally got back to the track last night, it has been very hot the last few months and the forcast called for mid 70's........

Anyways, DA was at 2490 feet on the first pass, went 10.00 @ 141.68 with a 1.75 60ft, and a 6.61 @ 115.31 1/8.

Tried different launching techniques and managed a 1.68 60ft on a pass that I missed 2nd gear.

Last pass of the night was a 9.99 @ 142.07 with a 1.75 60ft, and a 6.59 @ 115.01 1/8 mile.

Since it went 10.18 at 139, I've added Brocks exhaust and map, BMC race filter, Alisyn -0 synthetic oil, and a Dyno Jet Quickshifter........and reinstalled the stock 17t front sprocket.... expected more gain than that. Altitude corrected times are 9.70 at 145, so no matter how you look at it all of that stuff is only worth .2 and 2 mph?

Any ideas or comments?

* Last updated by: qwiktim on 8/18/2010 @ 1:55 PM *

Get that 1.68 60' on a good pass, and you're in the 9.80s.

I think for what you're working with, and for your weight, you're doing excellent.

UPDATE:

I decided that trying to keep the front end down wasn't all that much fun to me, and stretched it 6", added a Shinko 003 Stealth 200 tire, and 16/44 gearing...........

Got it to the track last night in miserable 90* conditions. The Density Altitude was high at 2600-2800 ft through the night............. Two best passes were:

9.77 @ 140.74 with a 1.57 60 ft ( altitude corrected to a 9.47 @ 144 )

9.78 @ 140.79 with a 1.62 60 ft.

Both passes spun a little through first and a good way through second no matter how I tried it. I made 12 passes (lol) and traction was not there. I think I will put the 17t front back on to try and take a little of the low end away and see what happens when it cools down a little.

Who can tell me something about adjusting my rear shock and spring? I need to do something now that it is stretched and I weigh so much.......... almost feels like it hooks then unloads......... ???

What are suggestions on my next mod? Go fast on a budget............

beautiful 06 qwik''what you need to do is slow the return of the rear shock!
Stand behind the bike holding it up wright' kickstand up and with both hands push straight down on the back of the tail section compressing the susp,down as far as you can and it should go down easy but firm but probably wont with stock sus.
Then let it come back up on its own still holding the bike but not against the natural return of shock.
It should come up slow, like real slow'' again it wont with the stk shock it will bounce wright back up and this is part of whats causing the bike to hook get out in the 60 ft and then spin.
Adjust the rebound and spring preload until it slows the rise down as much as you can, you can get some adjustment out of the oem shock but your gonna need to have that shock reworked or replaced because there's just not enough in the stocker to get the bike to hook like you need it too.
The quicker and faster you get the more the shock will fail to control and handle the torque that 14 is putting back there.
You can spend a fortune and lots of time with good sticky tires and it will all be for nothing mostly until you mod the suspension............

Thanks,

Just noticed that the rear tire has rubbed a gigantic gaping hole in the inner fender!

What about a revalved street/strip shock from BMC? They offer a service tailored to you and your bike for $159?

Would I need a new spring as well?

Never used that brand but i know for a fact that the litz revalve that adams offers works great!
I would give them a call or go to adams performance.
The problem with the undertail is typical of the 14's when lowered and the shock will help but not solve it completley!
I put an old tag under my ecu to keep the tire off it but a tiger tail would be the way to go.
Better do one or other or you will get into the box [verybad] ............

How did I not know this was happening?

Did it damage the ECU? A Tiger undertail will give you more room for the tire.

Dont feel bad you would not believe the 14's that came in here early on with the ecu's wasted !!
Most times you can't even tell its bottoming out,but as you found out it was LOL.
I used a old bike tag and fairing insulation mounted over that hole to mount the ecu and relay box to it.
You can gain clearance like zoldar said with the tiger tail, but it will still hit just not so hard.
I just mod them like i said above its cheaper,and it doesn't do any good to replace the undertail with a oem because its just going to ruin it also. Keep your eye out for a used shock that someone has had litz revalve it.
There was one one bikeland a while back for sale really reasonable.
I am not sure if its still there or not..........

The one thing you can always default to; contact Adams Performance. They are leading the way for zx14s right now, they know what they're doing and they don't cost an arm and a leg.

Adam's Performance 704-662-0992

also, qwktime.. Don't feel bad, i've rubbed, drug, even bunny hopped the rear tire (that was interesting) and never knew any of it was happening.

As for traction, try running about 12 lbs in the shinko. And like bill said, work the shock a little.. there isn't much adjustment in it but my best 60' ever was on a stock shock (1.39). Granted that was at 67" wheelbase and i'm now cutting 1.40s on 65"... But still

Another update.....................

Got back to the track last night to try out the cooler weather. Put the 17t back on to try and help it hook a little better. With DA readings int he 1400 ft area my best passes were in the 9.60, 9.67, and 9.68 with a best of

9.60 @ 144.33 with a 1.62 60 ft

Tried adjusting the shock every which way I could with no gain in 60 ft or traction in second gear. Still squatting enough to rub the inner fender very hard, even tried raising the rear of the bike up 1/2" or so.......................called Adams and have a Litz revalve on the way.

* Last updated by: qwiktim on 9/11/2010 @ 3:29 PM *

Put the Litz on it set it up, Then put the 16th back on and 1.40 60ft's here you come!
Another thing to consider is some tracks just wont hook, if you know they prep the track good and others there aren't complaining about traction then you know you have some tuning to do. Good job man............

Thats the plan............the 16t will go back on once the shock is on.

While on the subject, whats the best way to launch one of these with a Litz revalve with a 6" stretch?

Do you guys still slip the clutch? Slow release? Or just let it go? RPM to start trying at?

Its alot to do with riding style, but try leaving at 4-5 grand depending on weight/track and snap the clutch out the first inch or so but hold it there while holding throttle steady then increase throttle and clutch smoothly but quickly.
Kinda like SNAP' and hold clutch so the initial movement of the bike is instant then work to get throttle pegged and clutch all in [ lever out ] by the 60 ft mark!
Do a search on you-tube on [drag racing a zx14] and watch a guy called smoken . He has a red 06 or did then and listen to the bike when he leaves. I leave on the same principal as he does and this is what im trying to explain here but not doing a very good job of it.LOL
You can get a feel for the clutch by watching the height he lets the front get and the sound of the motor.
He is very fast and more importantly consistent ....................

* Last updated by: billeason on 9/12/2010 @ 4:56 PM *