Forget the 4 degree mark-that will be "off"somewhat from the "original" advancer wheel.But it should be,well,4 degrees away from the original(and this will be "close"to the mark on the inside of the case there). Yep. if you can figure out 4 degrees or rely on the one time bamboo deal, you magic mark what is not TDC next to the 4 degrees. So, now for the other 3 you just line the magic marker up and no more pencil dicking with it.
In 6th,I can turn the crank with my hand on the advancer? Yes, in the direction of engine movement. And a tap of the starter will tell you engine direction.
Or do I use the rear wheel to turn the engine over? Use the rear wheel to reverse the crank. Being, yes you can turn the bolt back to turn the engine back on the crank side, but the back wheel gets you there without the possible loosening up of the advancer bolt. Just remember to tap the bolt or re-torque it to spec so it does not loosen on the last time you turned the engine rearward with the bolt.
I need to pull the plugs don't I to see TDC with the stick,yes? Yes. Just one plug and the magic marker and you are on your way with so many combos, I will load all this info on you and the head against the wall becomes so much easier is it is sinking in, ain't it.
(obviously).but can I get TDC without doing that-I mean,can I rely on the advancer wheel and the position of the lobes with confidence? Yes. As long as you feel confident that you know what position that cam lobe has to be in, is recheck the book so it matches that photo. More like, at lobes pointing out or the toe is pointed at the exhaust pipe and at the throttle body. You could take a straight edge and the lobes should be as flat and horizontal as that straight edge over the two cam lobes. See photo.
If I slide the gauge in there,and it is tight-do I move the advancer a tad either way to see if the friction changes on the gauge? NO! Once you hit TDC, you set the gauge in there and if she does not move, then she needs to be changed shim wise. You can get a few measurement changes, but as long as it is within that tight/wide gap range, you are at the mercy of TDC and do not move away from there to cheat if the feeler goes in.
I gotta pull the tank,right? And the throttlebodies-yes? (which of course means REMOVING THE PESKY SUBFRAME AGAIN!!!SH&*!)LOL.............. No tank and no body removed. Subframe, yes so you can gain a faster access instead of looking over or under that frame rail.
Okay,I'm getting this now-So I don't need to be concerned about being 180 out or whatever-right? Well, yes, you better know you are not 180-out by viewing the lobes. If say the toe of the cam lobes face the spark plug, are you 180-out? Yes you are!
The timing mark just needs to be lined up,and then the valves will dictate which ones I check. Correct. Lobes out (toe) is TDC. If toes are facing the spark plug, then it is 180° out! Turn the crank one more time to face the lobes out.
They can only be "open" or "closed"-right? Yes. Either TDC or 180-out. YOu got it!
So I just check the correct valve clearance on whichever one(s)are diagrammed in the book-yes? He nailed it. YOu need a beer and no one else is take your time to look at the positions
....For clarity-the "measuring valve"(in the diagrams on pg2-23)means that they are?(TDC,and CLOSED?) Correct!
And that corresponds with the timing mark on the ignition-right? Correct again! Lobes out = TDC Compression.
I can leave the plugs in? Yes. Say you remove only one so you magic mark that TDC with the bamboo. Now you can 360° one time and flat rate 4 valve banks, or turn the crank 4 times which will set the lobes out to the sides x's 4 times at crank rotation.
The more I look at this,the easier it seems-am I right? Yes, because once you turn the crank and watch the 4-cycles, you can see you have to position that crank at TDC so each valve is closed and once you do it to one cylinder, the other 3 become routine, you wound yourself up in a knot for nothing, you are too mechanical inclined not to catch that 4-stroke act.
I can check all the "measuring valves" at one time,once I get #1 or #4 piston at TDC? He wins the door prize!
NOW-one more question-can I use my timing mark on my MUZZY advancer to line up on the ignition case mark,or do I need to install my original trigger? Remember out loophole is one plug removed, one view of that intake valve move down, then back up is we now watch for the stick to stop at TDC = Mark my Muzzy to the Kawi static mark or spit of the case half, and you are half way done is reassemble.
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