Drag, put that thing back together and go ride, you'll still be riding it five years and 30,000 miles from now. If you domthe compression check and it comes up low, what are you going to do, tear the motor down and rebuild it. Mines using more oil than yours and I won't touch the motor unless it starts blowing blue smoke. Seriously, stay away from '08 and up CBR1000RRs, they burn a quart every 1000 miles. Those guys would be tickled to have your oil consumption. It's a big motor and you run it hard, so do I. You don't wear out a back tire in 1600 miles unless you hammer it a little.

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A static compression test will only tell you if you have leakage at the valve seats. If there is a piston ring issue and oil is getting by, compression reading might still be good. Better to do a leakdown test to see how long each cylinder holds pressure. The presence of oil will fool a static compression test, but a leakdown test will tell for sure if something's getting by the rings, a much more suspect area for oil loss than the valves.

I'm sure this thread will be long gone by the time but I plan to do these tests before next Summer. I'll let you guys know what is up with mine. I have this gut feeling the compression and leak down will be in spec.

I'm going to replace the cracked oil filler cap and do some WOT with the belly fairing off. Maybe I will see something then.

i have completely defaired the bike every winter. Never saw a thing anywhere other than the valve cover leak.

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Drag from the look of your plugs you need to do a compression test in my opinion looks like oil residue but could also be from an overly rich fuel map but with your oil level dropping id be on the safe side!

I'm pretty sure the plugs are the result of Brock's rich fuel maps. During the valve clearance check the mechanic said they were fine. I will check the new ones during the next oil change just to make sure.
One thing I know for sure is that my valve cover leak is fixed. The area is flaky dry. Tonight, I did see a little bit of oil on the bottom part of the pulsar cover! About 8 months ago, this lady bumped into the bike while it was parked. I had a dent on the pulser cover and had to replace it. Maybe it wasn't torqued or sealed properly. So I've got to drain the new oil, take the pulser cover off, wipe everything down, reinstall and go for a ride. I couldn't find the pulser cover bolts torque spec in the manual? Anybody has a page number? Also should I use the silicone Liquid Gasket (1211) or some other type of sealant?

I'm still skeptic because the amount of oil found on the pulsar cover was minimal even if you add the fact that I have a defective oil filler cap, 1.5 quart is a lot of oil! I'm going to try the cheap fixes first if they fail, I'm doing the leakdown test just out of curiosity. I wouldn't have the patience to have the motor rebuilt. I would just part it out but hopefully we won't get there.

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I'm telling you Drag, in my business (aviation) we don't scrap an expensive aircraft engine because they are using a little oil, and yours is not using that much. Why worry, the motor runs great, some engines just use more oil than others, it's a fact of life.

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You won't need to drain your oil to seal the pulsar cover.Some of that copper gasket sealant works well...along with that O-Ring gasket seal.Minimal sealant however.

I hear you Kruz. I just hate the idea of packing a quart of oil when I go sport touring.

Yeah you're right Green, the oil level is not that high!

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Tonight, I did see a little bit of oil on the bottom part of the pulsar cover! About 8 months ago, this lady bumped into the bike while it was parked. I had a dent on the pulser cover and had to replace it. Maybe it wasn't torqued or sealed properly.

The seal is not that great with that rubber plug that the sensor sticks under the cover. No oil pools in there though the cam chain whirs around constantly throwing off oil. I noticed a glob of dust/oil greaze around that plug after the first year.

See steps 5,6,7 here: CRANKSHAFT SENSOR COVER

Don't bother buying the Kawasaki engine sealant. Cost me $60 for an 6 oz tube. Just get some good quality engine sealant/liquid gasket at an auto supply.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/29/2012 @ 6:00 PM *

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$60 for 6 oz?! Holy McFuck Rook!

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yep, you read that right. Not quite as bad as the 2000 dollar Kawasaki approved tachometer you are supposed to use to check Tbody sync but still mighty spendy.

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Don't bother buying the Kawasaki engine sealant. Cost me $60 for an 6 oz tube. Just get some good quality engine sealant/liquid gasket at an auto supply.

I did see that! I wonder how much Ducati charges for sealant! I've some Permatex left over somewhere I'll just use that.
Thanks for the info, I remember seeing it somewhere in the manual last year but couldn't find it this time.

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I use Permetex blue sealent,known as blue goo.Have taken my rotor off and switched with the Muzzy a few times with no leaks.
Craig

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That's the one I've got!

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Drag, I just talked to 1Bad, he looked at your plugs and said you are burning oil. I better pull mine next and have
a good look.

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he looked at your plugs and said you are burning oil.

2ND, We used to do allot of plug chops on our two strokes to get jetting wright. Look for tan or brown.

Here is a link how to read plugs click here

Thanks guy. Hmmm this is no bueno. I'm really curious to see where the leak/problem is at! This is annoying, I don't wanna tap into my 1000RR funds! Kruz let me know/see how your plugs look. It appears my 14 is going to be down for a while.

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Drag, keep riding it, you're using about 75% of the oil mine is and I'm not going to tear mine down. I'd be more concerned about how the engine runs, if it idles well, exhibits good throttle response and makes good power, fahgedaboudit! You're only using 9.6 ounces per 1000 miles, you could top off your oil and ride 2000 miles and be down about 2/3 of a quart, an extreme example but wouldn't hurt a thing. I think the new Panigales use more oil than yours.

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I'm going to have to change my oil at 2500 miles regardless of how good it is. Thinner oil will burn faster and the 14 has a big read hot engine so the oil probably get thin quicker. Add to that the way I like to ride. I was thinking, maybe I bleep the throttle too much and am wearing the piston down... Who the heck knows right?
I'm going to try Mobil 1 next oil change, if it doesn't help I may go back to non synthetic. After that I'm putting the bike on the dyno and getting a leakdown test. For now though, I'm ordering new fairing and putting the bike back together.

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Mobil 1 is a full synthetic, I switched from the Rotella 5W40 full synthetic to the Rotella 15W40 non-sythnetic. It stays within grade longer it seems, judging from the rattle time of the automatic chain tensioner. You may experience a faster oil useage rate with the synthetic Mobil 1 product.

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Yeah I know, but from what Danno was saying it might be better than Amsoil or Motul at staying in the motor. It's a shame though Motul allowed for some really smooth shifting. I will be running that in the Beemer

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You guys are worried about oil consumption???

Don't put a magnetic drain plug in your oil pan.

I don't usually get chunkies this big but I've had shavings every oil change this year.

Started looking after installing the Quickshifter but may have had it before that too. Am I worried?? No.

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That one there looks kinda like it may have sheared off'n yer transmission gearing....feel any strange new vibrations?

.... 2nd on that drainplug...I LIKE to know what's floatin around in there.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/5/2012 @ 2:26 PM *

Rook;
Thanx for the info on the magnetic oil plug.For $15 I'm getting one.
Craig

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Yeah I know, but from what Danno was saying it might be better than Amsoil or Motul at staying in the motor. It's a shame though Motul allowed for some really smooth shifting. I will be running that in the Beemer -Dragking

Those were the three top-rated motorcycle oils in Amsoil's own test paper. I don't know how many miles the Motul my bike came with actually had. May have been beyond it's change interval and started thinning.

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On a 5000 miles oil I didn't get that much stuff on my drain plug and I have only about 22k. You should be fine though like the human body, an engine has its mysteries.

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Don't put a magnetic drain plug in your oil pan.

Good advice Rook! I quit worrying about strange engine noises and sparkly bits in my drain pan a long time ago, as Drag so aptly put it, these engines are full of mysteries.....

"Where ignorance is bliss, tis folly to be wise!"
Thomas Gray

* Last updated by: Kruz on 12/6/2012 @ 7:58 AM *

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