You are stoked about yer ride....that's obvious...and well you should be Bro!I'm way stoked about mine...that's fer sure.Some of these issues you're probably not gonna see until you get a "few" more miles on er.Not to throw water....I'm not really.But it takes some time for some of these deals to begin to show...as you know.My first chain went about 14,000 miles.Then the o-rings started breaking.Okay.replaced.Now this last chain....replaced at 32,000 + miles.X-rings gave up the ghost.So that's really not bad for a chain IMO.Hopefully,my new one now will perform as well as that second one did.And that second one...that included several sprocket changes during it's lifetime-not NEW sprockets.Used ones I have for switching around when I want something a tad different.So yeah.....my baby's the best as far as I'm concerned.Couldn't really be happier.Best bike I've EVER owned.She's rockin now with those new tires and new chain.Made a big difference in the ride quality.

She heard ya Hub but she knows your Bad. and she's goin to make ya pay

Good work Captain check your miles and see how long she lasts ???

Turkey and Brazil will take of the Nuclear waste, I wounder what they get in return ( technology perhaps )

"(((NO JUDDER, no pulsing?"))) And you are going to get even disc level surfaces on both sides with sanding? Blocks of wood with sandpaper wrapped around it, spin the wheel? Look, ma, a lathe? I took my finger over 13,000 miles of front disc surface. Even the reflection in the garage shows how lined that disc is. Are you about to tell me that a few swipes of a fine grit paper is going to shave that hard surface down a few .001" OF A INCH? I would like to see your 5 minutes of sanding take off even .000001 of surface so it is even with the lowest groove. Lets play deep groove, .00099999" or deeper? Add one more number and there is your .001" deep.

Run-out is .006" That is old phonograph, 33rmp record, warp city you better see how much you NEED to take out that kind of 33rpm pulse coming around to push the pad in, you feel that at the lever pulsing. That is not even close to a 1/4 of that number sanding for a few minutes. I can't even stop a fingernail over a groove at 13k miles on the discs. Can you imagine the sanding that disc receives on each brake setting?

How come on the second bite, the chatter is gone? Maybe you cleaned the disc to the point it won't stop as well. You could not induce chatter. That tells me the brakes are less powerful if the 2 lever hit is softer, I am on less pressure the second time around. Where is that chatter on the initial hard first hit?

If I pull pad, scrub it on the cement, change the surface contact [pick a side to sand, either disc you/pad me] is clean that bite off. Are you not about to, re-bed-inn said disc/pad < Picking which will stop the judder? That says, no bite = Re-bed-in to reintroduce the chatter. Higher are the shock springs and the extension has less compression. Is not 'Chatter,' the deeper you dive? You sure lost bite bye cleaning. It would seem one could out brake you going in the turn. This is where you blew your brake marker, thinking that chatter better show up now. Do you think you may have rolled past the brake marker you always used? As if that smooth second time around no wheel chatter is no longer deep throating some theory?

We there yet, or you still want that apology? Show me how you remain on a pressure squeeze, one is smooth, one chatters. One is one brake grip action, the other not as grip pee an action at the feel... You feel it yet?

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Hubster....I think you're confusing me with someone else!Mine don't chatter.Never have.And the sanding worked for me.How thick can a glaze be anyway.Not very much methinks.And no...no pulsing either.You want me(us) to believe 1)you've got no cam chain rattle(when everyone else's does it)2) you have a perfect brake feel with no judder ever.Okay...I'll buy that.It's your bike.But when I say"I've sanded my discs and the judder is gone"...somehow that's not possible.Okay.And she stops just fine with the front brake.No loss of braking power at all. I certainly don't want an apology...never have.Apologize for what?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 5/23/2010 @ 1:05 PM *

Hey, blue? It is not you. I now have a video aimed at the front wheel. I'm going to slow-mo the video to see if the fork tags the zip-tie on the second bang the [brake] drum slowly. You know the movie tie till the cow jumps over the moon; every suck dick and sally wants an apology does it sound familiar? Like come slit my throat come get your apology I still breath on this suck change earth!

No, you whoever give me an apology as if I need one you are going to tell me how to ride and you are still using the rear brakes? It's a fucking bikejoke! You got some theory? I got your underwear gear mint. Shove a bomb up his cunt for some bike talkshit? Simmer down, Sanchodown. Don't get your pants is a wad.

BAD is still pulling code out of his _________ fill in the blank, someone else wants to take a LAP wit me? You know WOT DiS IS? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSA4HndKjPQ

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Yeh Hub, bench mark refers to one that is working correctly, and other ones need to get to that mark.
Nice video, the old Harley is that your second ride , wounder how the WD40 would go on the belt drives of today
strange that the belt idea hasn't taken off with other manufactures
.

That belt is not your traditional, 'old style.' He just had to have that chain for, 'the look.' We put that together chasing parts for the last 2 years. Some drunk takes my nephew out just last week. That is his bike. Once it was done, you could not get him off the bike. All that work and poof, 1 second worth of a left hander, some woman deer-eye'd him, turned left in front of him as he went by. Kind of like waited for him, he said. OH well! He is going to learn the hard way. Broke the tank studs off with his nuts. Jammed a handle bar on a leg, you can see the outline all bruised. Flew over the car, got up and walked away. Must be in the genes?

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Damn cages! Last week, I had a car pull out in front of me taking a left. He just stopped, right in front of me because cars were coming from the opposite direction. I had to lay on the brakes, HARD! I heard the tires squeal, but I managed to stop the bike before hitting the car. MAN, I felt like kicking the car! Damn cages!

Damn Cap, don't crash another one

Glad to see your nephew is OK, its amazing how bad a crash you can walkaway from and then that simple off that dosen't seen enough can end it all.
Broke the tank studs with his nuts, all I can say is if my nuts hit that tank the tank would still be straight, must be in the " HUB genes, jeans "

How unlucky is this guy, possible only 2 or 3 cameras on the hole curcuit. But then again he walked away ! Great front brakes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8COCPyB-go&feature=related

* Last updated by: ethin14 on 5/24/2010 @ 4:06 PM *

"Bud0212:
Damn Cap, don't crash another one"

Thanks for the concern Bud! I don't intend to, honest. Some of my friends do not ride on "surface streets". I am trying to go that direction to avoid the cages.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAZ0aaqTJjM

You decide. I have a slow-mo on the brake bind. You know I already have the pads quite up to running temp with the time already past. I want to be as objective on the subject so we can narrow down one answer.

Someone see any tuning fork related ((((slow-vibrato-motion)))) ??? Deep set back and forth? Soft set, no heavy brake bind brings on the chatter. I should tap a microphone on the fork so you could here when it does chatter and when it does not. When you see the forks tune, she is on the chatter.

"Warning Banner Out!" Do not try this in your living room; better you sit there and watch. No rear brake was harmed in this video.

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Hub, I agree with you 99% of the time, this is one exception, my bike does not chatter or wobble or pulsate in the least, with heavy breaking or light breaking.

Have you watched that front axle in real time? That slow-mo was to show me my own answer. You may select your exception. How come I am proving a point you refuse to even see it in the slow down at any speed.

This is not my imagination, this was not my springs or forks, it was related to my front brakes.

How come I imagine how that fork is tuning a piano, I see that harmonic only when you see the deep dive is enhancing it more as the forks grow. Did you see that? So, are they not in a back and forth motion all the way up the leg? Am I both mentally and now I see it physically assfactor inn viewing the tape, you [eyevan/1bad] still call me out of my mind?

I cannot explain the physics of how or why. All I wonder is how long it will last. Maybe you should give it a try and apologize later.

I'm going to leave this WON alone we start discussing physicks.

* Last updated by: Hub on 5/27/2010 @ 11:27 AM *

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scM_KD2217U

I am at a total loss as to what is causing this for me.

Everything is perfect now,this is NOT a tire issue, nor a steering head or bearing issue, this is a brake issue. I would suggest anyone with this problem just stone the rotors off and perhaps lay the pads down on some coarse grit sandpaper and refinish them as well. You will be good as new guaranteed.

Hub, I agree with you 99% of the time, this is one exception, my bike does not chatter or wobble or pulsate in the least, with heavy breaking or light breaking. This is not my imagination, this was not my springs or forks, it was related to my front brakes. I cannot explain the physics of how or why. All I wonder is how long it will last. Maybe you should give it a try and apologize later.

One scrubs off a perfectly bedded-inn binder, goes out and cannot stop the bike = No Chatter equals surface grip loss is a chatter free few brake applies. Once it beds-INN? I'll now tuck you in, little one. Don't Mess Wit Me I am telling The.
I do not accept apologies one does not get the theory without eliminating the steps you take are the steps ahead of you as the video reveals the deep piss set going is deep dive you cry CHATTER is that it don't matter is LIVE WIG IT... You, you (((Wiggle WorTT!)))

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http://www.roadracingworld.com/news/article/?article=40823

"I want an apology in a brown paper bag." Begins @ 5:00 minute mark.

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http://www.cyclenews.com/articles/road-racing/2010/06/15/hayden-schwantz-erion-moto2-at-indy

Schwantz has been trying to get into team management for some time.

Always willing to ride new machinery, Schwantz rode one of the earliest Moto2 machines, before it was fitted with the control Honda CBR600RR engine, at last year's RBIGP. After a few laps on the Blusens-BQR Honda, he came away underwhelmed.

The bike had a rigid chassis, he said, which caused "a little bit of front end chatter. I'd have to assume a couple days testing or an afternoon of testing, maybe with some adjustments we could get rid of it."

I don't think that boy rides hard too much anymore. I'd like to see how he thinks he can stop a fast moving wobble out of doing a wob with a (((steering stabilizer))). I'd like to see how he removes the slow 40~50 mph shake with hands off or better yet, keep the hands on, get rid if it. I'd like to see that front end chatter.... Ah, WOT do I know. I know the best can be beaten is some team manager knocks on the door with 3 points against him, are 3 clueless variables. I think I just pointed out the 3-V ass sass inn variables like fuel-spark-compression is to wobble-chatter-it don't matter is ride it out your hired?!

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Hub, I agree with you 99% of the time, this is one exception, my bike does not chatter or wobble or pulsate in the least, whith heavy breaking or light breaking. This is not my imagination, this was not my springs or forks, it was related to my front brakes. I cannot explain the physics of how or why. All I wonder is how long it will last. Maybe you should give it a try and apologize later.

Tainted, Did the chatter come back after the brake clean and prep? Everything still fine? Nothing coming up from the bottom like hidden but still there? Or are we back to full on chatter.

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Well Sheeet...Mine were(have been)doing the pulsing deal(it's definitely the pad/rotor interface...somewhere on those rotors is a slippery spot,or something). for some long time now.I stoned the discs...carefully.I cleaned the pads.Seemed good...for about an hour...then the pulse was back.Now,I don't feel it "much" when braking at higher spaeeds..natch...the forks are taking up the feeling most likely at those speeds(and it also depends on how hard I apply...that's the main factor about how it does it on mine).BUT...at 1-3 MPH,anywhere around those slow speeds(coming to a stop with just front brake..ya...it's definitely NOT corrected(I use rear to buffer the front some..so I can make smooth stops...but still..front's NOT okay).Not "quite" as pronounced as before mind you...but doing the same thing.Thought it was glazing or something...if it is,I'm just not applying enough pressure to the stone(on sandpaper).It won't go away.And I'm not gonna pull my wheel and rotors off to lay it down and remove however much metal needs to go?IDK what it is.They certainly didn't do this for quite a while when she was new.I've got stock rotors,and EBCHH sintered pads.I'm sure I read somewhere that sintered pads COULD NOT BE USED on a particular make/type of rotor.I'm wondering now....could the Kawasaki rotors be not likin these "aftermarket" pads?As "good"as they are?It may have even BEEN in the Kawasaki manual somewhere...I don't remember where I read it,but I definitely DID.

It doesn't make any noise at all...but I'd swear(almost)that it is actually only ONE spot on "maybe" each rotor...cause it does it with the revolution of the disc.You can feel it really strong when barely moving and
mediumly hold the front brake.Definitely not GOOD!Feels like it grabs,then slips,then grabs,etc etc.But it's not the WHOLE rotor doing it,I can feel that.Because of the fairing position,I can't see the front disc sitting on the bike...so I don't know where it starts and stops on it.VERY ANNOYING.

HUB...you mentioned about "losing" the bed-in...how it would not grip good by doing the stoning thing....Well,it did lose it's gripping at first,and when it began to come back to "normal"..then so did the pulsing if that's tells ya anything?

Do you think I should return to stock pads(I mean...shit..they lasted like crazy the first set)?They worked just fine at stopping as well...I never had any gripes with em.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/5/2010 @ 4:07 PM *

You are giving great feedback on the brake scenario, blue. If the pads now are not tearing up the metal but you can fell it like a baby's butt, and has a reflection off it, there is no problem with the pad to metal if they both act the same as stock pads.

I'm waiting to hear from the tainted. Here's the deal:

1. New tire.
2. New front fork shock oil.
3. Old, worn out brake pads about ready to be replaced but reused. Meaning, I still have plenty of pad left. The wear material is as even as could be. I did not mark which came out of what slot?

Do we see tainted said no new tire helped. And now the brake pads scuffing or whatever is being done on your end, I just threw mine back in. I did not clean the pads with anything whatsoever, seeing I had no oil or something of concern to the pad material I should address it before installing.

The only thing I did was take a brake clean to a paper towel, removed my handling or anyone who handled that wheel, I made sure the discs were clean to the touch. I present 3 variables and blue did all this detail to the brake system and we are back to square one.

I would think if blue had such a small window of time before it came back, I am wondering if tainted had that same short time it took to come back as equal as blue's same execution, meaning, both taint and blue made a scrub on the parts. It does not matter if one did just the pads, or one did just the discs. It does not matter the execution if one used the floor or a surface plate to one side.

Either way, they say both went away, but one came back and that was blue. Is that what you experienced with your clean and prep, tainted?

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Well HUB,that's what I'm saying...they are NOT acting right.The rotor faces look "normal"...not blued or anything that would indicate some sort of overheating to the metal.But if I've stoned em off(I used sandpaper before)and got the same results(I did all four faces of the discs)...what do you think is happening?I mean...they WERE smooth running(these are ebc pads...HH sintered[not an extreme amount of miles on em]...with plenty of pad left)at first cleanup,then within a short amount of time ,they began the pulsing thing again.Both times I cleaned the discs.Can the rotors be warped do you think?I'm not sure I go for the idea that they're somehow warped.Can I put a straightedge on the disc and overlap the measuring/flat disc area and actually tell if they are warped by looking at it?The stone surface was flat and brand new...and when I began rubbing the disc(carefully so as not to gouge into it at any point)there were a few spots that seemed to have "more drag" on the stone.Could this be a warp?Or just a hot spot or something.Something that would cause the pad to "slip" when it goes over that spot?I will say here....the CENTER of the discs appeared to actually be "higher" than the outer and inner face of the disc.I mean,there WAS a definite "higher" amount of disc going through the center of each disc(around the disc face)(like a ring you know)...like where the pads are separated top from bottom. Can I SEE glazing on the disc?I really can't tell if BOTH discs are doing this.But it feels just as if there's ONE spot,on one disc,or BOTH at the same place,that it "doesn't grab" for lack of a better word.You know,you can feel it with the revolution of the front wheel.One disc MAY be perfectly fine...IDK.I can't determine if BOTH are doing it.But at least ONE definitely is.If BOTH are doing it at the same place on each one....what do you think could have caused it?I've never slammed on my front brakes and held em in against the discs while sitting stopped when they were hot or anything.And with my emergency braking practices(which I don't do hardly at all anymore because of this brake feel)...I didn't stop the bike and hold the brake on.When I came to the complete stop,I was releasing the front brake and allowing the rear to take over.

Doing my parking lot practices...I sometimes get going at a pretty good clip,then apply front brake strongly,to a complete stop.But I then release.I don't hold it applied.My tire is fine...I've got no wiggle.And no visible uneven wear like you'd get if you skidded or ground off some rubber from extreme braking or cornering.No cupping or anything.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/6/2010 @ 12:46 AM *

I took a dial indicator to mine. I have video showing it has almost zero run-out. We are talking half the thickness of a business card you can see if we have a lot of run-out. Then if we are going to look for that much, I would take a pencil, stick it out so you can tape it on top of a seat and move the pointer toward the disc or just off the disc. You do not want to touch the disc, but have the warp touch the pencil tip, make a mark, show your run-out spots.

Try this: Gut a pen that does not write. Pullout the spring and clicker parts. Reinstall the ink tube backwards after you drill hole that will make the tube slide but grab a tiny bit. Now you stick out the tube, brace the pen body stationary like, tape it on a chair and move the tube toward the disc somehow.

You home the tube on the disc. And without upsetting the forks, you spin the wheel so it pushes the tube in the pen's body. There is your gap you have everything else stable.

I'm trying to get TT to answer what you have experienced. Why the delay with the answer coming?

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Ya...I hear ya...I've no way really to get the front off the ground...except to buy a front stand,which I can't do right now.Guess I'll live with it for now.She seems to brake fairly smoothly at higher speeds...traffic and up.I noticed a lot of it has to do with HOW MUCH and at what speed I'm applying the front.My stem bearings are fine.I've been ridin her like this for at least 10,000 or so miles.It would be difficult to accept IF I didn't have my rear brake to help out.Sometimes I can apply strong braking at 70ish,higher,and she's gripping good and not pulsing TOO MUCH.Very little actually.And if I just "ride" the front at speed,I really don't feel it doing much pulsing.Medium braking at speed...minimal pulsing.Just the real slow,coming to a stop braking is where it really shows up strong.When the disc is hardly moving around...1-3 mph.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/6/2010 @ 4:20 AM *

TT should be coming here any minute to cough fup the goods. Blue took it like a man. Tough Titty said the kitty, we be silent we be assuming the blue syndrome occurred to the TTeaser.

I have 3 variables and something is gone called, chatter. Waiting....

Over here!

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Okay...so I'm askin ya Bro....what do you think is causing this to occur in the first place....seriously.If I need to buy a different set of rotors,or what?I don't want to spend the high bucks for something like this,only to have it occur again.Should I go with Kawi pads and new rotors?(when I decide to do it or not?).Kawasaki parts(as you agree)have so far been the most reliable and appropriate for MY bike(not including the PCIII stuff and all that).I'm with you...I feel the designers know their shit alright.