Ok, lots of people have asked me, what sorts of things are worth doing, and what aren't? Whats the best 'bang for your buck' so to speak?

Keep in mind, i've drag raced the 14 since I bought it. Everything i've done has been for the intent of making it faster on the drag strip.

That being said, here's what i've found are the best bang for the buck upgrades:

Gearing! For a bit of extra torque and roll on feel, buy a 16 tooth front sprocket. You can use it with your stock chain, and it's worth doing.

Removing the secondary butterflies! Because even though on the 08+ models it opens sooner, you STILL have the computer restricting torque on the bottom end.

A worthwile exhaust! My personal favorite is the Brock's street meg or alienhead (same exhaust, different canister). The CT series exhaust is also very functional (what ive heard) but i have no experience with it. The best thing about the brock's pipes, is you can go to psychobike and usually find a used one for about $5-600.

An aftermarket air filter is a good idea, but generally hasn't proven much for the performance gains.

Ported throttle bodies! These can be bought through competition cnc, they are good for 5-7 extra HP. Very nice unit, they are still on my wishlist. Around $600 and with a little bit of mechanical skill you can install them yourself.

Now then, you've done the basic bolt on modifications for power.. What if I still want more?!

There's a couple of ways you can go about it:

Thin headgasket, and adjustable cam gears. Unless you know how to index cams, and check piston to valve clearance you'll need someone to install these for you. If you pull the motor yourself, expect around $500 labor. The parts are around $100. With a brock's pipe and this mod, expect anywhere from 185-190 rwhp. And that is REAL WORLD, not the inflated magazine numbers you usually get.

S/S head. These are done by a number of vendors, my favorite is Competition CNC. Match these up with a set of throttle bodies and expect around 195 rwhp on pump gas. They do a valve job and mill the head, you use a stock head gasket and adjustable cam gears. Cost is around $550 for the head i believe, and another $100 in the cam gears.

PORTED head. These are also done by a number of vendors. Competition CNC, Adams performance, Carpenter Racing, so on and so forth. Expect around $1000-$1500, and HP anywhere from 185-200 hp depending on the port job.

CAMS: READ THIS.. WIth the stock ZX14 pistons, you DO NOT have enough piston to valve clearance to install cams. The drop in cams offered by orient express are JUNK. $1000 for 1-2 hp?? NO WAY.
To use cams, you will need aftermarket pistons with deeper valve reliefs.

That being said, a head/cam package from any of the vendors is a good investment. Once again, i prefer Competition CNC. They will explain to you what you need, why you need it, and EXACTLY what you can expect. For around $2500 or so (i believe) you'll be in the 215~hp range. BUT remember you'll need pistons, and all the assembly.

So, say you want to go all out on a STREET motor?
A set of 2mm overbore pistons, competition CNC stage 2 head/cam package, ported throttlebodies, Brock's alienhead, and naturally an aftermarket air filter. They HAVE made almost 230 hp with this setup. 226 if i remember right. That would make one HELL of a street ride. You can also run the 2 mil overbore with a 4 mil crank for 230-235 hp. I would suggest running a second fan however, on either setup.

Want to go even faster then that?? Here ya go!
I'll have to check the company, but i believe APE will weld up a 7mm stroker crank. Pair these with a set of +2mm pistons, and a set of rods. Get a competition CNC stage 3 head cam package with oversized valves, double valve springs, brock's exhaust, and race fuel. You're looking at around 265+ hp (nobody has tested with a 7mm crank yet)with the chance to run nitrous. A 5mm crank will make around 250~ hp. You can buy a 5x2 kit through Muzzy's, but DON'T buy their cams.. they are too small. You ARE looking at spending a lot of money this way, but if you're dead set on all motor or nitrous, this is what you got.

Then, there is always the turbo route. I know nothing about this, but y basic knowledge says a set of aftermarket rods, low compression turbo pistons, and a turbo kit and you can easily make over 300 streetable hp. Expect to spend upwards of $6-7k for this direction.

You guys can stick this if you want, I'll also be glad to answer any questions!

Also, for that extra weekend boost, mr9 or mr12 fuel, by VP race fuels, is good for 5-10 hp. You WILL need a different tune, and the fuel DOES go bad quickly. It's also quite pricey ($21/gallon in 5 gallon pails).

If you want more info on these let me know.

Great read. Thanks for spending the time.

Good job! thanks

I also forgot to mention:

The dynojet ignition module has proven on the dyno to actually LOSE HP. I didn't believe it until I saw it with my own eyes. A bike had the ignition module installed, and had the PC tuned, then REMOVED the I.M. and picked up about 6 hp across the board. My understanding, is the spark has to go through the ignition module before it goes to the coil. It loses strength and actually retards the timing instead of advancing it. Which makes sense, how can you advance the timing of a spark BEFORE you even know when the spark will occur??

I'm sure i'll think of more later.. it's hard to recall 4 years of memory into one post.

seriously?

100% true story. I wouldn't have believed it, nor would i have shared the story if i hadn't seen it with my own eyes.

Which makes sense, how can you advance the timing of a spark BEFORE you even know when the spark will occur??

Wow this is a shocker. You would think Brocks or Ivan or all the tuners would have reported this way back. Law suits the works. I see Dynojet is now selling a New IM for the PC5. Are they not selling under Fraudulent circumstances ?

I have one in my bike and have used Brocks and Ivan's timing Maps with nothing bad to report.

It does something that's for sure, you can hear the the changes, even in the idle. I am now Questioning What is being changed,,, More like WHEN it's being changed. Yikes.

Hub,,,,,,, Limp Mode ?

Wow thanks for the great read. Nice work putting that together.

Just found this thread, by competition cnc on psychobike:
http://www.psychobike.com/forums/kawasaki-zx12r-zx14/80865-211-hp-zx14-stock-cams-pistons.html#post780951

211 rwhp on a STOCK motor'd 14. S/S head, degreed cams, 47mm throttle bodies, and MR12 fuel.

Just to help make this clear, my 1570cc monster made 220 hp through a stock head. It ran 8.60's at 160 mph.

This stock motor would easily be capable of running 8.70s at 157ish.

[QUOTE=Romes]Limp Mode?[/QUOTE]

^^^^A+ The Bar to jump ^^^^

I am a closed loop. I have a value. I will pull down your zipper, find that velocity stack, roll up a FSM UP that little hole...Cums the Mail! Is that where you talk into? Ears are not working I tried. Bend over you tricked me there already. For the love of you shit and I can take a lot of shit asks Privvy, fuck Rollerboy.

No one listens to turtle. No, not fraud. Yes I do. I see a prop. I can't find Cody. Gotta use big honky-nose-beep-pee-EE-peep say nothing to no one... Give me an L. Give me an O. Give me an INN. Give Brock HER. I'm buying!

No don't ruin the guys post.
Yes, I gotta buy the house a pak-6
No, that was a 6-Pack.
Yes, ha pacup my tool box pull the solder wire plug I feel so 'turtled.'
No, that's who walked in?
Yes, I found my wallet.
No, not there! Walked in at least I know to move down wind.
Yes, I heard that rattle cattle call of the wild.
No, not trying to get out the door stay here I got it!
Yes, seems Rome has the Empire Fire Wired.
No way hose say!
Yes, can you see if eye left any change is up dare?

http://www.psychobike.com/forums/kawasaki-zx12r-zx14/80865-211-hp-zx14-stock-cams-pistons.html#post780951

* Last updated by: Hub on 5/26/2011 @ 5:19 PM *

You confuse me.

Pg. 3-42:

"(the signal is out of the usable range, wiring short or open)"

A very simple/step/pimple/every/pimple/popped/poops/sea.

When my sponsor is gone an buried, I'll spill watt I know it is way too simple easy a tune... You'll love it!

You confuse me.

I think you mean Us,,,,,, but I think I might have understood that one. Maybe been reading to much Hubish.

I think what Hub is trying to say is,,,, because the IM changes the timing of the voltage, the ECU is seeing the info change as incorrect or out of range so the ECU goes into default setting or safe mode or Hubs Limp Mode.

In safe mode bike retards timing to a safer level of performance mapping making you slower than what Stock set up would be.

But if the info gets changed after the ECU how does Mr ECU know what changes were made ?

Hub why are you doing this to me,,, Makes me weee Brain hurt.

Is a retune needed for the ported throttle bodies? I would assume so. If you mean a true 5-7whp, that just got bumped up to my next mod.

Yes! You'll be flowing more air, you will need to add fuel.

I think what Hub is trying to say is,,,, because the IM changes the timing of the voltage, the ECU is seeing the info change as incorrect or out of range so the ECU goes into default setting or safe mode.

In safe mode bike retards timing to a safer level of performance mapping making you slower than what Stock set up would be.

Say, yes, it makes sense. No, I just at random collected the concept and formulated an abstract = 'Answered your own question,' say it! "I'm over the hump," Say IT!

* Last updated by: Hub on 5/27/2011 @ 6:03 PM *

SlowSaid: Yes! You'll be flowing more air, you will need to add fuel.

ARE YOU SURE?

I have read that the 47mm throttle bodies are best for the 14 as long as there has been no major engine work....is this the truth?

Do you have a link to the CNC site where they sale the TB's?

Also, what do you think about velocity stacks?

Thanks

* Last updated by: trainedkilla on 5/27/2011 @ 7:57 PM *

http://competitioncnc.com/

The 47mm are the bigger ones. The 46 are what you're thinking of.

Early on they were saying to use 46mm on a stock engine. But recently i haven't heard anything about the 46, i think they've figured out the 47's will still make the same (or more) power then the 46mm.

He doesn't have the TB's on his site. Just give him a call or email and ask about them.

Velocity stacks are up in the air.. I have never ran anything BUT the stock stacks. Other then when I was running the big motor, I ran stock profiled billet stacks so i could install the nitrous nozzles in them.

Thanks for the information brother.

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/images/avatars/00A1A328-D56B-84E2-1102747102CA472E.JPG
Is my flame front; lean/rich/max HP I am one molecule:

Slow,

I piss off the pro's. I get yelled at I'm some know it all [is their assumption and if they only knew I do not now that much]. But what I think I know I know like a book. I am asking a simple question and now, Slow, I have the slowest bike here. I'm going to ask you one question;

I am not a turbo. I am N/A. If I pack I don't care how much you think is going to be packed, how much is MORE if I am at BDC we stop the engine.

I have no turbo to keep that air moving where I have to both fill up that BDC and keep it going sort of push more than 14.7 @ BDC.

I am going to ask you one more time; Do we have more air because you ported the head, say yes or no says you do or don't, meaning, you will have to [prove your statement], explain any other answer go head, you are up if we are discussing tune up or tune what did you say about MORE what? YOu sound like a pro, no offense resident, but did someone poop on your lawn? YOu have a pooper-scooper we clean up the pro-poop on your kin tuck key bluegrass?

Didn't want to confuse a little air push of 14.7 speed via a turbo. I meant a blower that can push past 14.7psi. And if I don't push that number no matter what, that is the penultimate number for FI I keep that front and center.

NO MATTER WHERE I BLOW YEAR GONNA KNOW ONE WAY OR THE OTHER! LOL