always run em a little loose to protect the counter shaft bearings and transmission.
Uncrated, the 14 have them tight for shipping. I'd say that tight would not help the longevity of the bearing of the engine or rear wheel bearings. Plus the churning and shearing away of the pins as it goes around the counter shaft and leaves a wider arch around the pin? That tight adds friction. That's where the stretch comes in. The counting of the 20 pins and measuring from there.
But to set it to book of ether gen's mm/inch, that is plenty of slack off of the arch, the load off both bearing ends, the less friction of the chain rolling, yes book is loose for that.
When I start noticing the slack on throttle pickup exiting a corner is when I readjust the chain slack.
It can't be from the chain wearing out. I've been swapping tires and the slack still winds up at the same position. I'm having a back to back wear test with Vic, and whatever lube he uses, and me with grease. If you want my opinion of that chain and engine case, that to me looks too dry. It should be caked with road dust and debris.
How many times per mileage do you lube the chain? I'm every 300mi and I never wipe the frame/rim off till I change tires. Helped a rider at the track this year: he mentioned an old turner's quote saying something like, 'lets make some HP.' He then started to lube the chain. If you take that bike out for the sport of it, I'd be on that lube every time out.
And that chain does no look OEM? Looks heavy duty. Your chain look the same? Weight saving links?
Something is off, Kruz? Sure it's not the oil degrading? Shifts real smooth when fresh, then sort of signs off close to its regular interval change?
Because, if I set it book, I miss-shifts more. I tried it loose and it seemed to work for me. I think of boiling water, turn the heat off, it stops boiling. So less slack means quick off, on lift, that top rung is going slack, and if it needs that touch of mesh of the dog into the slot, I've got a lot of give at the top rung and seems to stop, if I throw the sloppy shift at it.
What effect does the elastomerics in the final drive cush hub play here?
I'm thing button style cush drive? Sprocket carrier has dowel pins; those slide into steel inner and outer rings with the rubber bonded in the middle of those two rings. That's all the rubber needed for the cush effect. How long a load would those be in from one tight chain?...
...
It seems like you would beat the hell
out of the rubber hub inserts before the countershaft bearings would fail if the chain was too tight.
I'm trying to walk the forensics and point to the cush vs degrading memory set for how long tight is tight? Then you're right, see if that cush drive is rumpled as shit, tag your it. But if that cush drive is tight as new? Back to the dealer rep and explain yourself out of that one.
And say tight is friction. Say that chain looks too dry to me. Say if it was tight, the heat might bite, a lot of rust and powder around those plates. But it does not look it.
BTW, how is the 959 duc? Any problems with that, who handles better? Who has the grunt? Are you saying the ape is more fun? WOT gives?
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time