I'm thinking about buying a new ZX-14, but . . . due to a back injury, I would need to change the bars to get something higher/farther back. Wouldn't need much, but someting to help get the ridding position slightly more 'normal'. Anyone done this change and how much did it help.

Thanks

G'day mate im not an athourity on this subject but the GTR1400(Concorse) has alot higher rearward type bars that do that! plus there is also risers which are like block spacers that lift the bars !

* Last updated by: bean07 on 12/24/2010 @ 10:34 AM *

I have the heili bars on my bike and it helped alot more than I though they would.
Here is a site to help you see how you fit on every bike.
http://cycle-ergo.com/

A buddy has a Concourse and I've ridden it. LOVE the motor, but its way too 'tourery' for me! I'll check the websites and look at the bars.

this is my LSL conversion, could only manage to take 20mm off each end but still a lot more upright than the standard bars, another plus point for me is I don't have to hit three figures between the angles at every chance I used to get
merry xmas and ask santa for the kit.
B-A

3B43,
One of our members here (blue07) double stacked heli and genmar risers and loved this setup. Hopefully he'll see your post and chime in to give you a little more input.

I rode for a sport touring season with a setup like pictured above, in the post by battleaxe.

Pretty darn comfortable and worth every penny. However, I also have back (and neck,etc.) problems which even though the VA pays me for them monthly, that doesn't make it any easier to ride.

So over this winter, I am inserting LSL risers for more up and back, and replacing the Superbike bar with a Superbike High bar.

Which means +7" across the board replacement of throttle, clutch, and brake hoses/cables. All stainless steel.

Going to use this as a chance to convert my front brakes to a two hose setup, one long hose to each caliper, with a two hole master cylinder bolt. This will improve the feel and performance of the brakes also.

As for the electrical cables, well, I'm going to have to cut them and patch them a bit longer. No biggy, but nobody makes extended electrical cables for the ZX14, so I have to do it myself.

And it will be well worth the effort.

I'm the complete opposite. My back is pretty bad, multiple bad / missing discs, and it feels better reaching forward. The more upright I sit, the worse my back feels. I've got bar risers on, and it felt better without. Putting on a Sargent seat, or the connie seat helped a lot.

Privateer...NO...you do not need to CUT any cables or wiring.IT WILL WORK with those Superbike HIGH BARS.Mine did.You need to cut a tad off the bar ends though(about an inch),and insert an "acerbis" end insert in there to hold the bar end weight(IF you're retaining your stock bar ends that is).Some mild modding to that insert as well...but it will work okay.The Superbike High bars have NO threaded bolt/attachment point like the stock clipons do.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/26/2010 @ 3:54 PM *

alg8er You are exactly right. Anybody who really does a lot of long distance riding, will fare much better bent over than sitting up. The stock riding position is 10 times better on your back than sitting up like a dog begging for food. The sitting up position compresses your vertibre and being bent over stretches it. Anybody who thinks riding sitting up is more comfortable on your back rarely rides over an hour.

* Last updated by: scottfarm on 12/26/2010 @ 11:38 AM *

Stock bars work better for hi speed riding also, you tend to lay on the wind instead of being pulled off the bars. If your back and neck are blown out chances are your going to be in pain no matter where the bars are set at. I think a after market seat would be the best bang for the buck. The stock seat does make your ass burn after a very short time.

Depends on how you ride, but with my LSL handlebar set up, I find the pain was greatly reduced. I have degenerated discs in my back and neck. About the only time they quit hurting is when I am riding.

blue07 wrote:

Privateer...NO...you do not need to CUT any cables or wiring.IT WILL WORK with those Superbike HIGH BARS.Mine did.You need to cut a tad off the bar ends though(about an inch),and insert an "acerbis" end insert in there to hold the bar end weight(IF you're retaining your stock bar ends that is).Some mild modding to that insert as well...but it will work okay.The Superbike High bars have NO threaded bolt/attachment point like the stock clipons do.

You missed a crucial sentence in my post above. Which is why I had to go +7" over on my cables and hoses. I wrote, " I am inserting LSL risers for more up and back, and replacing the Superbike bar with a Superbike High bar. "

The additional LSL risers bring the bar up 3" more and back 4" more. So this is up and back more than just LSL + Superbike High combination. And nothing will reach, trust me. The bars are going to be about the same as they were on my old Z1, probably.

I had no problem riding that puppy fast, and never got blown off the bars. LOL.

That's what I'm trying to understand about what you said.You mentioned a "riser insert that will give you 4"rise and 7" pullback"This is what you get by installing the Superbike HighBars.There is no insert to raising the bars...either low bars or high bars(unless they came up with something since 07).The bars themselves are the raising or lowering of the position.All I'm saying is....the LSL kit....with SUPERBIKE HIGH BARS...will give 4" rise,and 7" pullback.Now if you're saying that you bought an ADDITIONAL RISER block...well,that's something completely separate from the stock LSL kit,though the Superbike High Bars are NOT standard in the basic kit either...they have to be ordered "in place of" the standard kit bars(the "superbike bars").I think we're saying the same thing?A TOTAL of 4" rise,and 7" pullback...from triple clamp to pilot,yes?If this IS what you're saying...then I'm saying that I DID NOT HAVE TO CUT ANYTHING.Only the addition of the longer brake line to the right caliper.I left the crossover line alone.I don't want to ask a dumb question here...I'm sure you're quite able to install things on your bike....but you DID turn the throttle cable assembly around 180 degrees,yes?,so it's on the bottom...and rerouted your harness to run to the connectors through the cable/banjo/ throttle housing area,yes?If you don't do that correctly,things will be short and will not fit.THIS is the reason you CUT off approximately ONE INCH from both bar ends.(which is why they say"not tested for the Superbike High Bar application for the zx14".They may or may not know that that removal of one inch will give the owner the extra slack length needed to have a workable install.But you will need to use the Acerbis(or a similar)insert to reinstall your stock bar ends,or for that matter,a throttlemiester(which I also have).I did not use any LSL bars ends.

The cables and electricals and hoses will end up too short trying to fit the High bars and grips flush to the end of the bars.My housings were set at right where the bars begin to bend downward,yet they were just enough to be straight on the bars,not hitting the bend.This BARELY allowed the whole shebang to fit okay...but it did.Naturally,if you did nothing to mod the bars...you'd have around an inch or maybe longer sticking out because you cannot have your grips flush with the bar ends as they are.
IF you intend to NEVER change your bar position...then the instructions state to drill the housing pin hole into the bar where you want your housings to stay.This advice however,will be a problem IF you decide you want your bars to be more upright,or down lower.Cutting the plastic nib off of the inside of your housings will allow you to rotate the housings to fit whatever bar position you want....when they are correctly tightened down(the housings)...they will not turn unless you apply some force to em....otherwise,they stay perfectly where you put em.You may decide you want to "lower" your horn switch by turning the housing some.Or...the start button.Or the hi/low lamp switch.You can't do that if the pin is in the hole that you drilled.

They don't tell you these things for the zx14,cause few people actually do the little "mods" to get their ergos "just right" for themselves.Your bars may be excellent for your back.But your wrists "might" scream bloody murder if the grips and housings are not customized as well.IF you intend to install a throttlemiester(which is really a lifesaver for long treks),it will never work on the uncut bars.It has to sit up against the throttle grip to work right.Just my 20 cents!

You see that stock LSL kit install in that pic above.Ya...with those lower bars...everything will fit.But you raise em several inches more,and pull em back several several inches more...the width is gonna prohibit the bars from turning fully right and left...the banjos and housings will hit the tank,and the cables and hoses will end up too short.The Superbike HIGHBARS MUST be cut down.You can't ride around with an inch or more of bar end sticking out!

I don't have these on my bike anymore...they were fine for a while....but I liked the feel of my stock clipons better...now with only Genmars on there.I'd agree with the "stretching" of the vertebra statement.I've also had a fusion at the L5,S1 spot....and the leaning into my tank has felt better actually than going for hours sitting upright.Yet I can still get a nice upright cruise position with the genmars if I want to do that.

This is the Acerbis insert I used...however...to get the correct grip/bar end install...you have to cut the outer ring of the insert off.This allows you to slide the insert in,install your bar end flush with your bar,then tighten down the bolt.You may also(probably) have to remove at least ONE of the "tightener plates" on the tightening shank to get the shank to slide into your bar.No big deal.You DO NOT use the Acerbis bolt.You use a longer than stock bolt,with the allen head on it.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/27/2010 @ 6:39 AM *

I did not fit them so much for my back as for the pins and needle, then a total loss of feeling in my hands except pain,I have a condition known as vibration white finger cause through my work, of course I like the original bars but if not for the conversion I would had probably Had to change the 1400 for something a bit more sit up an beg as it is I still have the best bike on the market and loving it
B-A

The riser I purchased is a standard LSL riser (I could post the part number, but I forgot what is is) out of about 12 they show on Spiegler USA's site. They mate to the bottom bar clamp, and then your bar goes to the top of the riser, and use the riser's top clamp and bolts.

I also did my Acerbis mod differently, I cut the length down about 1/2" and used bolts like original but 1-1/2" longer. So I can get mine off easily by loosening the bolt and tapping the head, and they pop out, all still assembled.

So while I will still have some forward lean, it won't be the kind that was becoming very painful before LSL kit was installed, stock.

This year, my rides include the COG National in Mt. Snow VT (so long I need to camp the night before sign-in at Oneoda NY KOA campground) and the COG Fall should be in upper NY state, so a bit longer. Those are my two long ones this year (as far as miles in a day) and my new setup will make it truly more bearable to ride all day (about 10 hours) each way.

Just got an email from Roaring Toyz and they will order all my hoses and throttle cables for me, +7" over stock.

Clutch hose (check)
Front Brake hoses (2-hose, race style, plus double banjo bolt) (check)
Throttle cables (check)

All stainless inside of clear tubing, with natural fittings. And the fittings are OEM which is good.

Looks like the weather is going to be warm enough to drain the brakes and clutch, remove the clutch hose and brake hoses, and have it ready. Bodywork is already off.

Think I'll put heated grips on it while I'm at it. LOL.

Here are pictures of the Spiegler riser I put on top of my LSL for more up and back .... positively Old School like back when we had the mighty GPZ1100 and it sat like a cruiser.

* Last updated by: privateer on 12/29/2010 @ 9:57 PM *

Okay...NOW I see what you have.I thought sure mine was the same...with that middle block in there...I'll look again.They're not on there now...so I really don't remember.....just went and looked at my parts box.NO CENTER RISER LIKE YOURS...only the lower one you have there,and the top clamp.I had NO idea they had additional riser blocks! Your setup is quite extreme.Interesting.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 12/30/2010 @ 1:14 AM *

Those risr blocks didn't come with the LSL kit, but LSL makes them, and Spiegler sells them.