Well the immaculate 07 14 with nearly 60k kms I recently acquired has a previously unknown history. As I have posted earlier the clunk I had the lower gears and a general harshness in the box may be because the PO has been 'enjoying' the bike.It is the worst gearbox in operation I have had,mostly in the first 3 gears.
What I would like to know is if anyone that has knowledge of robust use of the bike and has seen similar results and if replacing the bearings will fix the problem?

Don it can take a while to get used to this bike's gearbox. A couple tips. Do not lolligag aboug shifting. Pull the clutch, shift, and go. You pull it... take a sip of coffee, and tthen try to shift forget it.

The 2nd tip is start focusing on shifting having barely disengaged the clutch. If you're puling the lever to the bars, this is probably one reason it seems so hard shifting because the peak time to shift has come and gone.

Try to get your shifts down to about 1/2 second. It'll run a lot beter.

Thank VicThing I will take note,but in the three weeks i have had the bike I believe every type of change has been tried out.
For a bike that has such a racing pedigree,it does not even compare with an 06 R1200S,or a Gixxer or a Ninja 1000.
But as I said I will persist because I really like the bike.
I have had much experience with machinery in earlier years and I have gradually come to the conclusion,rightly or wrongly, that there is a bit too much gear noise and too much slack in the transmission,allowing for the play in the chain/sprocket which is nearly new and correctly adjusted.

Shifts are a lot smoother if you pull the clutch and shift at almost the exact same time. You don't need to get back on the throttle that quick if you don't want. If you've tried everything and you feel there is something not right, you are probably correct though. Shifting is not that terrible even if it is done slow.

I've never heard of anyone having gearbox problems. First thing would be to look at the clutch. If that is original and it's worn out, that could tell you if the bike was put to hard use. How did the front sprocket look? Was it he orinal?

Well incredibly a 'hesitation' shift seems to alleviate the clunk considerably.
It could be called a lazy shift which is the quite different to how I shift on other bikes I've had.I only had a 50km ride trying it but will persevere.
It was supposed to have sprocket/chain renewal at 50k kms and a full service. It has just had a 60k km service. Thanks Guys.

Took me awhile to find the idiosyncrasy of a liquid clutch. Vic figured it out. I can only present my throttle to clutch lever presentation and show you what Vic means. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFCyny5BXv0 This is where you focus your aim at the left grip assembly. Find the clutch lever's little arm that pushes the safety switch in if in gear and all that. Then listen to the engine shift while watching the arm move in and out and never really is pulled all the way in for shifts.

So say no loose bearings going belly up. No metal with the oil change or say the oil had sparkles flowing on your last oil change, right? If something was wearing down or wearing out, we'd be seeing something being chewed up like a long sliver of a gear tooth being chunked off. A constant missed shift or pops out of gear and those dogs are knocked off and there is more magnetic type material you can test for. But if there is nothing occurring metal burr wise, or forks being burnt and that's a burnt stench embedded in the [oil] cooling that gall off...

... How close am I with a simple oil change?

Robust transmission use. Earphones help ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tnXUcdixtM&t=3s

This is where you focus your aim at the left grip assembly. Find the clutch lever's little arm that pushes the safety switch in if in gear and all that. Then listen to the engine shift while watching the arm move in and out and never really is pulled all the way in for shifts.

The clutch lever presses a safety switch so that bike can be started in gear ONLY if the clutch is pulled.

I don't think that could have any impact on shifting gears but the clutch master cylinder push rod could. If the lever is not pressing that push rod in far enough, the clutch is not fully disengaging.

Is that rod worn or bent? Is the lever worn or has it been modified? Is the lever pivot worn? I presume you have tried adjusting the lever to maximum throw although the clutch should fully disengage even if it is set at minimum throw.

I would think the bike would be creeping forward with the clutch pulled if the clutch is not fully disengaging. This should not happen when the bike is thoroughly warmed up.

I have adjusted the clutch lever to full out position will no change. There is a lot of movement in the lever between engagement and fully compressed.However the clutch drag on cold start with clutch in and in first gear there is a positive drag,more than I like, however not much different to the GTR 1400. Which I bought new and assume has the same clutch.
The drag disappears on both after they are warmed up.The viscosity of the oil would have a bearing ,I am sure the oil is 15/50 that has just been changed.
I am coming to the conclusion the box is less 'sophisticated' than other boxes, though I think this particular one has had a robust past as well.
I have just had a short burst on the Ninja 1000 and the difference between them is quite obvious. There is no slippage with the 14 .

My 14's gearbox has had a robust past. I've banged my dogs real god more than a few times missing gears. With the quickshifter, it's kicked back down to the previous gear or gotten stuck between gears and then jammed in at a really wrong rpm. Plenty of low power wheelies though no real drag launches. I've found slivers in my oil after a good bang but still shifts as smooth as ever with the clutch and usually very nicely without. I've never tried a smaller bike but with some use, the 14 is now just as smooth as the busa. It never was a lot worse but that busa has a slicker gearbox when comparing both brand new.