asked this on another forum, but curious for more input.

Got a brand new zx14 and am really loving this bike! Much better than anything I've had. Only 700 miles or so and recently noticed a vibe/buzz on the tank...an feel with my legs.

assuming this is normal...does everyone experience this?

thanks!

Welcome...you might try cleaning,lubing and adjusting the chain.Usually solves most vibe issues.Take a look at your rear sprocket...see if there is ANY strange wear happening...like maybe one side is "polished"(the teeth),or wearing strangely.If so...check your wheel adjuster block hash marks.Make sure right and left adjusters are BOTH equal by looking at each side THROUGH THE AXLE(but looking at the adjuster block/swingarm lines facing you for that side....and noting if the block line is matching on the swingarm.They DO NOT have to be "lining up" on a hash mark on the swingarm,but they need to be the same length on both sides.

Any particular RPM or road speed you're going when it seems pronounced?

One final question....what is your IDLE doing?Smooth and steady...or fluctuating?(after she's warmed up that is).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/8/2011 @ 9:32 PM *

Thanks for the feedback!

I have tried to keep the chain clean and lubed, but will do a complete inspection like you say...will try to post a pic of anything that appears to be out of the ordinary.

The vibe/buzz seems to start between 3500 and 4000 and i really don't feel it anywhere but in my legs and crotch...not bad, just kinda annoying...so it sounds like this isn't normal, so thanks for the help!!

Cold idle is a bit rough and that was going to me another post, however in less than a minute of idle is smooths out stay right at 1000rpm.

Hub, is the throttle synch you are talking about the engine vaccum sync process in section 2-16 of the service manual? not sure which book you're referring to.

thanks!!

Thanks!

Not sure I'm following everything, hub...
"Yes, that should send 4,000 rpm to a generator type of where did the vibration disappear to? "
Can you please expand on this? not sure what you mean..the vibe/buzz starts between 3500 and 4000 but doesnt disapear, thought it does seem to get better beyond 5k.

It sounds like perhaps overfill of oil may be a potential culprit..i hope to have my pitbulls early next week, so will validate w/ your test. I did change oil at 525 miles with a m1-110 filter and 4Q of valvoline 10-40 mc oil, so should not be overfilled, but will verify

don't notice much difference at ~4k with the clutch in or out...still that slight buzz in the the tank..not really a noise though.

thanks!

Ok,

Didn't have a mirror to do as you suggested, hub, but was able to take some pics:

here is the oil level after standing bike straight and letting things settle...bike was cold:

This was after a change after 500m...4 quarts were used.

how does this look?

thanks!

As far as the has marks...looks pretty close, but off a bit..not sure if an adjust is needed or not.

here is the right side:

and left side:

This was after a change after 500m...4 quarts were used.

Looks perfect----as long as you have the bike on a level floor -level front to back of bike--a few degrees WILL throw the read off, as unbelievable as that sounds is true. Most important, hold the bike so it balances straight up and down. You will get used to holding it against your knee as you knweel next to it and float it effortlessly balanced betwenn right and left. The bike cannot go anywhere--the sidestand will hold it up if you let it go to far away from you. It can fall on you but that is why yoiu place your knee agaist the side so you can feel what it is doing balance-wise.

GOOD--always check on a cold engine. Hot oil expands a HUGE amount and a significant amount clings up high in the engine for several hours after shutdown. You cannot do a hot check unless you are some sorta oils check expert. 50 degrees F would make a big change in the level.

Always check in the same spot of the garage with a cold engine for most reliable results.

Hub's quantities are correct. That you can rely on as long as don't burn or leak any, those fif gures will keep you where you should be.

As far as the has marks...looks pretty close, but off a bit..not sure if an adjust is needed or not.

I have driven myself half crazy trying to get the left and right chain adjusters the same. I have tried measuring on the swingarm and even tightenning the screws all the way in and counting the revolutions to turn them both out the same number of turns. NOthing will work perfectly with certainty. You just put the adjusters as close to same position as possible. Who knows how accuate the marks on the swing arm even are? When you tighten the chain, it is just maybe 1/4 turn. Maybe you go a littkle tighter on one side this time and maybe abit more tioghter on the other side next time. I doubt it matters much or they would have something far more precise to measure each adjuster.

One trick (compulsive ritual, if you like) is I look through the axle when viewing the chain adjuster marks. If I see the hole straighgt through, I know I am eyeballing dead center. I use that as a sort of way to aim my line of sight on the adjuster for both sides......for what ever that is worth--as I mentioned, I doubt the marks are cast precisely as we all would like to think they are.

---

IF you adjust your bolts against your blocks...where you want it to be,THEN,you give the tire a firm hard kick while holding the bike from behind,or on a rear stand...holding the uprights,it will tighten and stay in place(on a sidestand,this will be more difficult to get the wheel to move forward while holding the bike).Your locking nut on the axle cannot be restricting the wheel forward/backward motion however.It has to be pretty loose.IF you start adjusting with the wheel "in forward" just a bit "too much"...then when you adjust the adjusters back(or out),it will automatically adjust true as long as you don't go "forward" with your wheel.As long as you're adjusting "out"(towards the rear)...it will remain secure and adjusted where you want it.Everytime you move the wheel forward,you need to make sure the axle is butting up tightly against the adjuster bolts by "hitting" the tire forward to set it.Then,your axle nut needs to be tightened gently until it begins to get pretty tight.Pushing "out" with the bolts will assure a true setting.Going "in" will be iffy.

There was another way I read a while back....putting a rag on the lower run of the chain/rear sprocket.Then turning the wheel(as in moving forward)until the rag stopped the wheel from turning.This is supposed to pull the axle all the way forward.I'll keep doing it my way.Lot less hassle IMO.

Me thinks the "looking through the axle" is the BEST way to get an accurate adjustment .I personally DO believe the hash marks are accurate.The only way I could see them as being somehow "off" would be IF the swingarm pivot shaft bearings or something were bad.I've never heard of a zx14 pivot shaft having to be re-worked bearingwise or anything else.Although it IS in the service manual.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/12/2011 @ 4:39 PM *

Thanks, everyone!

So, trying to understand, so please bear with me...

Done this test: driving along, at say 4k, I can def. feel a buzz/vibe through the tank. So, answer the question if the buzz/vibe is a result of the chain...i engage the clutch, speed obviously starts to drop, but keep the RPMs the same, can still feel the same buzz/vibe and same frequency, regardless of road speed.

Is this a valid test to eliminate the chain a source of vibration?

thanks!

Is this a valid test to eliminate the chain a source of vibration?

IMHO, I would say yes. It is motor vibe yu are feeling. When my bike was stock, I felt a tickle in my left knee where it lay against the Foreman and it was right about that rpm. Vibration. I don't feel that anymore except maybe one quick instant higher in the powerband.

Personally I don't think you can be off much if you use the marks on the swing arm. IDK if they are accurate. To me it seemed like there was a small difference in the left side and the right side back of the swingarm shape/length. not to mention the blocks don't fit super tight in the slots and one of the marks is way fatter than the other on my blocks + I have had a little different setting on one side than the other + the axle usually cocks in the slots a little bit just from torque ing the axle nut...........

I don't think it matters. There are a hundred ways that wheel could be out of alignment by a mm or two. Get it close as you can and watch the sprocket for ware. I never had any prob there.

---

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/14/2011 @ 10:51 PM *

---

---

---

ok, not sure if this will make much sense, but here it goes.

that vibe/buzz i've been complaining about all of the sudden seemed to get better.

when i started this thread, it was annoying at pretty much everything above 3500 rpm. last night, it seemed better...still there but better at the above rpm and worse at the lower rpm.

so, the vibe has changed and varies where you feel based on the rpm.

does this still sound symptomatic of out of synch throttle bodies?

thanks!

You know....700 miles isn't very much.HERE'S an idea....how about the front or rear tire?(or both)Is it possible that the tread is actually wearing some,and that's why it's seeming to be "changing"?I know...long shot...but....maybe?

I say this because with all my tire changes....I have not installed weights.I know...sounds crazy.But honestly,my bike is actually SMOOTHER without wheel weights!

I'll mention something else here as well...just recently,I decided to "loosen-up" my suspension...you know,get the "firmness" outta the forks and rear.I had her kinda "stiff" for higher speeds.In all honesty,I think I had actually gone "too far" for my weight and such.I re-adjusted yesterday,just for the heck of it.My bike now carves WAY MORE SOLID and smooth than it did over these last several weeks.I assumed stiffening up the suspension would remove a certain type of chassis behavior I was getting at higher speed cornering.It was not.The new softer settings actually have transformed the feel of my bike enormously.I am able to enter and gas during the apex and out.Something I stayed away from before.I'm very happy now concerning how my baby is tracking through the curves.

MAYBE...your suspension is a tad too stiff?IDK.Stiff suspension can transmit road imperfections and such pretty well.

I've always been under the understanding(?)that your(my) idle will fluctuate when she's due for a synch.IDK....I could be wrong.I went a LONG time before I had my mech synch the bodies...same time he checked the valves.

I'm also in the habit of about every two months,something like that,of using the Gumout Concentrated Injector cleaner.Two applications for one bottle.I've only changed plugs ONE TIME so far.My bike has 46,000 miles on it.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/16/2011 @ 2:31 PM *

Got about 1000 miles on it now...breaking 6grand now!

Might be something with the tires...i do notice a lot of road noise from the front ne way. The vibe is very high frequency, not something the tires or so it seems. also, if i hold rpms constant, vibe seems to remain the same regardless of road speed, so it 'seems' engine induced.

I don't trust the dealer touch the bike, so i guess i'll order up manometer and give it a try

Ya...you can get some rumble from the front tire.....goes up through the fender and can sound kinda alarming once in a while.Usually,it's road surface...that's what I noticed.Nothing to worry about.

"gets better at higher rpms"...yup...sounds just like a wheel unbalanced.Try this...now yer past 1000.Get a nice straight ahead of ya.Open er up...go past 150...keep on climbing.WHAT are you feeling NOW?Let me ask this.Are there areas of rpms where it becomes more noticeable.You know,like mild rpms.then smooth,then higher rpms,then smooth,then HIGHER rpms...smooth(mph really).You know...certain speeds it's smoothing out at and reappearing at?Maybe just one or two areas that it shows up at?

It's very smooth at those RPMs (2300, 3200) and does tend to come and go thru the rpms, so maybe making something out of nothing.

No hop, wobble or anything, so it doesn't feel like a tire/wheel issue and remains the same at whatever rpm it's happening in no matter the road speed, so I think the chain is spot on...jsut that buzz/tingle at various rpms. ordered a carb tun pro (wish it would show up!) and will give it a shot.

Had all the plastic off, so far haven't broken ne thing off, but was a bit nervous the first time! Not sure about that tank tho, haven't gotten it off all the way yet.

I'm really loving this bike w/ or w/out it being in sych! I'd like this to my 1st 100k bike...not sure if live that long or not tho! I am a capitalist tho, hub...let the bidding begin! thanks everyone!!!

Yep, spot 42 psi F and R. generator smooth in 6t at 3200 too. Now it gets buzzy in the 3500 to 4500 rpm range...bike kind of changes every couple hundred miles. Pretty damn smooth at 5k, which is ok by me, but Im going to be getting too many tickets...If the carbtune ever arrives, still planning see how it's synched.

I don't have a problem with most dealers, just the closest one has a history of poor quality and charging for work that doesn't get done...so kinda leery. There's a good dealer 90m away, where I'd be comfortable doing business, but the 600 ans 12k PMs, no problem doing myself.