If I install a new ECU,and get an error code for a sensor that was replaced with a new sensor,what does that tell me?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/9/2009 @ 2:10 AM *

It tells you, it is not the sensor or the ECU.

It tells me the line, or the cable, or the wire, has dropped out of routing a route cause. Watt the root cause is, could be a wire:

1. Not connected to the j-box = Ground, where all the other grounds attach to one bolt through an eyelet. Could be an 'open circuit' being wire hanging in the air.
2. Connector prongs are not in their housing = Male end missed the hole and did not connect or is not connected at all.
3. Wire is hot (+) side, but goes to a ground that does not blow the fuse, but throws the code because the hot is not throwing 0 to 5v up and down the scale is it reads one volt only = Ground ~ Not connected ~ Open.

Thanks Hub-my thoughts also.I'm thinking there's a short to ground SOMEWHERE in the Sensor line.But not at the sensor connector.In the main harness my guess.I don't know what the ohms measure should be in the wiring from,say,the pigtail that goes INTO the GREY harness and back to the ECU.My mechanic has my manual right now.The wires right at that junction-well,they didn't "look" right(I dunno,they just didn't look "normal").Maybe burned inside the casing plastic-something.I couldn't tell for sure(my bike's not here at the moment either-it's over at his shop).I'm going over tomorrow and get my bike back(unless he's fixed the problem).Then it will be done.But right now-he's checked all the valves and compression-it was all good.Tried to get a hold of him to see if he had any ideas about the electrical.But he's apparently gone for the weekend.I think I could figure this one out.He's had my bike since Tuesday.And no progress on the running issue.If it's just wiring that's causing it-I'm pretty sure I can find out where it's bad.The way this started and has progressed,it leads me to believe that it most likely a short that's working it's way into a full blown open.Not having my manual,I don't know if this sensor line goes through a relay or not.But relays usually have several items running in them,don't they?I mean,if a relay went bad,it would probably stop some other items from working,wouldn't it?Yet I only get the one code(occassionally,when she won't start).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/10/2009 @ 12:32 AM *

sounds like its time to pull out the meter :-)

Ya-I totally agree.My dealer has a brand new 07 zx14 in their showroom-..............if............I could only get him to "just this once" swap ECU's for just a minute.This would eliminate any question about "if" the ECU itself is bad.Should I ask him?Whattaya think?I could do the swap with him there watching-it's a no-brainer!! If she ran FINE-then-new ECU time.If not,then wiring issue for sure,yes?I mean,using a new ecu on a damaged harness is not going to harm the ecu will it?Plugging it back into a good harness(the new bike)will just allow it to work correctly,yes?No harm,no foul?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/9/2009 @ 5:08 PM *

Correct; no harm, no foul. How can you ruin an ECU if you unplug something. It is the same deal. Say you have a 100w bulb as an ECU. The wire falls out of the wall, the light goes out. Did that burn out the [bulb] or ECU, being a wire fell out or is out of the loop for a moment.

You know how much experimenting I've done to my ECU is mess with you and the ECU both. Tell that to the doink dealer is he has no clue about being scared [for watt I don't know is ]to swap a box. I'm sure they do use a floor bike is I sure have done it more than once. I've picked off a part for a good known one is get that bike off my rack, make the customer happy.

You followed that ground you say? Something does not look right? I'd chase that first thing.

Well-I'm gonna definitely ask my dealer if we can do a quick swap-that's first.As for the ground,well,I didn't actually "follow"it to where it goes-except back at the ECU itself.I found the wire(color) going in-and ran a meter from the sensor connector(harness side)back to the wire in the ECU-but I don't know what the values should be for a wire going that distance,or if it was traveling through a relay or what.........so-the reading I did get was around 14,000 ohms.Which basically told me nothing that I could interpret.But the two wires that come off the sensor,go through the connector,those two go into the Grey harness at the left side right next to the subframe.And as I said,they looked as if "maybe"they had the black tape "disturbed"and the casing itself on the wires looked as if "maybe"they were crushed or scraped.Just didn't look like "normal"wires to me.The color on the casing definitely looked as if it had been "rubbed"along the length there-smearing the paint on the casing.(if that makes sense).I've no idea if there's a break right there or not-I'm getting my baby back tomorrow-fixed or not.It's still rideable-it better be!(it's not at the dealer's-it's at another guy's house who used to work for them).

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/10/2009 @ 12:29 AM *

i think its kinda risky to swap with a dealer one for the simple reason, what if ur bike is killin ECU's with a surge from a faulty regulator or diode, those things are sensitive to slightly higher amps than made for, it's true swapping will do nothing to the ECU and i've done it before, its just that messin wit the dealer's one is a no no for me lol

Okay guys-ya-thanks for all your input.I think I jumped the gun on this one here-Everything that you all have said is correct....ya.....HOWEVER.......I just talked with my mechanic about my bike.You're never gonna guess what it was.Go ahead-take a guess.....(be right back). Okay-this was the deal-the timing trigger was LOOSE.He tightened it up,set the degrees,and VIOLA! She's running Perfecto now.Anyone out there with an ignition advancer-I would say check that puppy if yer having similar symptoms.I got lucky-it didn't come all the way off.Hope my problem helps someone else here.I would have NEVER thought of that since I had loctited the screws when I installed it two years ago.BTW-valve adjustment and FI sync-$460.00.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 8/10/2009 @ 10:01 AM *

BTW-valve adjustment and FI sync-$460.00

One of the guys I work with berated me for buying a maintenance contract. First time I had valves and fuel injection done, and a few other things, it just about paid for itself. And I've still got quite a few services left on the contract.