Seems the "nut" that is in the back of the airbox, made a trip through engine. I heard noise, and engine died coming home last week. Heard a tinkling sound at the beginning. Can see a bit of shavings when looking down intake throat. Thinking I will just pull engine. Most likely going to need a a piston, valves, and maybe crank replaced.

Did not even know the fastener was failing. I have not had the bike apart this far in I do not know how long. Guess I should have not stopped checking fasteners, etc.

Anyone know a source for the socket used on the engine mounts? I have not looked yet, not in the greatest of moods!

* Last updated by: zxinit on 8/8/2022 @ 4:30 PM *

Sorry to hear that zxinit. Sounds like a very interesting project though. Maybe go with a larger bore while you're at it. It will give off a lot of heat but sure sounds like fun.

I removed the front engine mounts to install sliders. I don't remember needing any special kind of socket.

Bummer. What part are we talking about? Aren't those stacks high enough or is that much of a suck it lifts metal and over the stack it goes? Still trying to think of a nut in the chamber. Are we talking something like a rivnut? Like the ones used to hole down the two service covers on top of the frame. But then again, that base is wide at the crimp between the two sides.

This is the style rivnut used to hold the covers on. That table top call it, has to be as large a hole to send that down the v-stack, be suspended in the air on the drop, and be sucked in that way. I can see that happening, but a rivnut, to a nut sucked off the floor?

Yes the rubber rivnut, in the back upper corner of air box. I heard what sounded like metal bouncing around in a can, etc. Both sides failed, but only one side is completely missing the nut. Other had it hanging by a strip of rubber. Going to try and run scope through plug hole, and see what the top of the piston looks like.

Socket I was talking about, actually loads a "spacer" from what the manual says. I thought is was the end of the bolt when I looked at it some time ago. Trying to avoid pulling engine if I can.

@Rook
Would love to overbore and prepare for boost, but wallet is in just get it fixed mode!

That's an engine pull for sure. That says the head is probably wasted, the piston, and probably not the cylinder walls. Though they can take the tumble of parts thrown at it, I've seen them chunk off the barrel. That takes a certain process is the silicone wall finish. Try them out for head and cylinder repair.

https://www.millennium-tech.net/serviceInfo.php?id=1

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/11/2022 @ 7:13 AM *

You are telling me pretty much what I am thinking. Have not touched it. Too discouraged! lol

I have been ignoring the bike, and finally went out to make up my mind whether to pull the engine or not. Seems it is a definite yes. It will not shift into 2nd gear, so definitely going to need to be torn down. I was hoping, although I was already thinking I has to, not to pull the engine.

That being said, the question I asked at the beginning was the "socket" to adjust the spacers used for the engine mount bolts. I think I am explaining that right. The manual mentioned having to adjust/tighten them, and from what I can see they are not something I have a tool for.

Most likely going to put the body work back on it, and roll into storage for awhile. I cannot see any way this is going to be cheap!

I don't think you can shift most Kawasakis into 2nd unless the engine is running.

Mad

The second gear lockout is overridden by simply spinning the back wheel fast enough, then pull the shift lever up. By spinning, you centrifugally move the balls up a channel where the unlocking occurs; to catch second on the back wheel spin. The back wheel can be spun in either direction to the shifting up sequence.

I thought I had been able to when pushing starting it in the past. I tried rocking it, and made mo difference. It just might be in between teeth in the gear box. I am thinking engine is locked. Going to put body work back on, and roll it into storage for awhile. Find something else for stress relief.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/5853074987a86609a0cd84af/transmission

look at output shaft 13128. Look at 600 ball at the shaft. That calls for 3 balls. 5th gear does not show the slots, but page 9-44 shows it in the shop manual how it's designed. This is to spin the balls up 5th gear's slots. Have to have the initial whip of the output shift to send the balls up the gear.

2nd gear is splined on the output shaft. You could say 5th is somewhat splined to the output shaft and that won't spin until the balls are thrown up the gear so then 5th is freewheeling like a normal one would.

This is bread and butter work. It's a splatter down is to pull the engine, tear the top end down, all within a half a day. Shit, the parts list would take more time to lookup parts and jot them down.

* Last updated by: Hub on 8/19/2022 @ 10:55 AM *

What is the cause of this hell nut failure?
over torquing? What is the torque value for those type fasteners

Old, worn rubber was the cause. Vibration caused it fail.