Hi guys, a few days ago I started to adjust my front suspension. When I went down to those little two compression adjusters, one went ok, but I jammed the second one, beacuse is made of aluminium and it was stuck, so I forced it too much and now the tip is gone, so I can't rotate it either way :( This little soft (way too soft!) metal adjuster seems to be fitted to a golden removable thing, attached to the low end of the fork. The repairing manual doesn't say a word about messing with this adjuster. Do you guys have any idea about how to change it without changing the fok oil and so on? Thank you

Doesn't that just bite?

You might want to take a look at the price of some Ohlin's shocks and replace them both.

are we refering to the part that is 11065 in the pic of hubs if so i fornd it for 96.00 for two of them not sure what part but is it in the pic

Well guys, it seems I'm screwed :) Unless... that little adjuster being made of aluminium, it's possible to drill it and stick something in the hole, at the same time with putting some screw unlocking liquid, like brake fluid, in order to make it at least rotate... hmmm, meditate I must.

@Rook: I also have a Midnight Sapphire Blue '08, tell me, did the flies removal do something good in terms of power and acceleration response? I have already changed my stock exhausts with 2 carbon Akrapovic....

tigerone wrote:

@Rook: I also have a Midnight Sapphire Blue '08, tell me, did the flies removal do something good in terms of power and acceleration response? I have already changed my stock exhausts with 2 carbon Akrapovic....

Not really. If there was a change, it was very minimal. I wouldn't bother with it unless you have done every other mod and still want a tiny bit more power below 3K. The power bump can still be fealt at 3K even though the flies are out. Seems like correct tuning should smooth this out but I have not tried that yet. The bike may lift the front a little easier with flies out(can't say for sure because I didn't even try to that before flies out)but I still need to open the throttle pretty wide and I still need to climb to ~8K - 9K rpm to do it. It sure won't happen under 3K flies in or out. I believe the bike will take off a little easier in second gear after fly removal. This tells me there is a small torque increase straight from idle. I have noticed the bike using ~3/4 quart of oil every 3000 miles and I think this might be from oil blowing by the secondary flies which are no longer in place. I can see my airbox drain tube has some oil residue on it. It did before the flyectomy too but I never lost enough oil to require adding oil. The oil loss could be from running the bike harder more frequently this second year of ownership. Nothing to worry about as long as it's not burning or leaking out of the motor or internally going to places oil should not go - I have seen no sign of either. Just have to keep an eye on the oil level now. Top off about every 1000 miles.

I would definitely wait until warranty is expired before fly removal because you may not notice any change. Sorry I can't give more precise info. I pulled the flies in the winter and had to wait a couple months for snow to melt before I could test. I may have had a better sense of the effect if I could have ridden the bike one day flies in and then again the next flies out. All I can say is that the increase was not real significant, perhaps not even noticable. It would be a BEOTCH to put them back in though.

@Rook: thanks for the info, as I understood on the '06 model the flies removal works like a charm, but not on our model, 'cos Kawi engineers upgraded the old model