If you can get a grip on it, twist, and use something as a lever under your hand (pain!) it should pop up. Sometimes if there's a little oil in the plug well, it creates a pretty good vacuum when you try to pull the stick up.
If this is your first plug change, a little anti-seize on the threads doesn't hurt. Makes it easier to remove them the next time. I know the book gives a torque value, but from years of twisting wrenches, I can feel when something is tight enough but not too tight. The only time I use a torque wrench is when multiple bolts or nuts (like on a cylinder head) have to be torqued evenly and in sequence.
Only good thing about replacing only three is, when it starts misfiring, you'll know what the culprit is.
* Last updated by: Danno on 5/28/2014 @ 8:03 PM *
'07 CPB Blue; ZGST windscreen with MRA X-screen adjustable spoiler, tube bar adaptor, PC III, ATRE,BMC air filter, modified stock seat with 2nd Look cover,Scorpion Flame Ti slip-ons, Galfer rotors front and rear, braided-stainless lines, C-F 10R front fender, C-F hugger, C-F inner fairing panels, painted foreman's fins with faux C-F inlay, polished rim lips wired for heated gear and accessories, Givi V35 side bags and E41 topcase with SW-Motech qd mounts