I noticed some dry, white, filmy spots forming under the little door covering the keyhole to the gas cap. Think I may have been filling the tank too high -- I really was in a habit of topping it off on my longer rides. I imagine the white crud was octane. That is probably what caused my gas cap lock to stick. All at once it just wouldn't turn, I was standing at the station with an empty tank just twisting on the key for like 10 minutes. That happened 2 times and I decided I better try some graphite powder lubricant. I wanted to stay away from WD-40 because I heard it really isn't the best thing for locks.

The graphite worked great. It was an effort to get it to turn but once it did, it freed up completely. Very simple process. Just thought I'd mention the graphite. It can be picked up at an auto supply and it is intended for use in locks. One tip I can give---If your gas cap lock sticks, rather than twist a million times like I did, try pulling the key out an eighth inch and then forcefully push it back in so it bottoms. That seems to be what got mine to turn.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/27/2010 @ 8:03 PM *

Hmmmm, is your paint peeling off under the gas cap ? Mine is, maybe gas cap next.

Romans; Like this?
http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=A38766A9-D56B-84E2-1FF86367D8C755C8&page=1#9

No paint peeling in my tank. I remember reading about alg8tr's red that had to have the tank replaced from paint peeling around the gas cap.

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=A38766A9-D56B-84E2-1FF86367D8C755C8&page=1#9

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/13/2010 @ 9:25 PM *

Mine did the same thing Rook. Got all this white powder looking stuff around the keyhole. Dropped some graphite powder in there and it seems to have helped greatly.

Late to the party here, but had that same thing happen a while back. Worked on it unsuccessfully in a gas station for half an hour and made it home on vapor. The interference felt mechanical, like it was jammed, not gunked up. Finally it gave way. I took the lid apart, blew it all out with compressed air and re lubed the whole thing with graphite. Hasn't happened since, but was a major pain in the ass for such a simple little problem.

I'm going to take a guess at the white stuff:

1. Looking under an old faucet say = White Powder.
2. Looking under a quad-ring that locks up the caliper piston taking up that room = White Powder.
3. Looking under a gas cap and the condensation between gas surface and what is not covered so no water vapor can dry = Water that turned white powder in 3 locations... Would I be far off if I guessed water buildup?

I think and I would not use this on a key fob internals, but I might test with a douche of vinegar.

Massengill disposable lock de-jammer.

Did anyone try PRESSING on the cap itself while TURNING the key?(to open).You know you have to press down on the cap when closing,and the key will flip to the lock position for removal.Maybe you should try and relieve some of the pressure on the lock mechanism when opening as well.Just a thought.You cannot "lock" the key when closing without pushing down on the cap.No matter how many times you try to turn it.It won't budge.Someone not knowing this would assume the key/lock unit is frozen.NOT SAYING YOU GUYS DIDN'T KNOW THAT...okay?So PLEASE don't take it that way.I've just always done it that way....cause I read it in the manual. She hasn't to this point stuck yet.And I DO fill mine up past the filler neck ring every time.I promise...if she sticks as some have had happen...I'll post it immediately.Scouts Honor.

Those little teensy springs under the cap...they will corrode some.Maybe that's what's keeping the lock from seating(or unlocking)?

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/30/2010 @ 5:03 PM *

I tried every imaginable combination of pushing, pulling, loading, unloading.....

When I tore apart the entire cap there was no sign of corrosion, foreign objects, gummed up goo, you name it. I think when I posted before about this I mentioned the white powdery substance. It was kind of like gypsum but probably aluminum oxide from some of the alloy parts. I'm going with trapped water/corrosion as well.

Since the graphite lube it's been smooth sailing but I never forget about it when the tank is getting low.

My original post:
http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=A55F4944-1372-66AE-3B2F34B106F5E698&page=1&searchTerm=fuel%20tank%20lid#23

Ya..I figured everyone who had this happen tried EVERYTHING.I do think ONCE mine didn't want to turn or open...just once.I applied some pressure to the cap and she popped loose though.

Had the same thing happen a couple of times before the really bad one. Wiggled pushed and twisted and no problem, opened up in a matter of seconds.

I think I saw another thread about this on one of the other forums. Not the most exciting topic but good to share.

Breakin yer key off in the lock will definitely enhance your ride! Not to mention the admiration of your fellow 14 riders here that will now have a GREAT topic to discuss!!

ALL these "little topics" can be very enlightening.I only wish that those(not pointed at anyone in particular) who post about a problem would also post about their solutions.These topics are usually zx14 specific,so that's the whole deal.You won't find a lot of these quirks in the Service or Owner's manuals.Stuck gascap?....good topic IMO.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 11/17/2010 @ 2:15 AM *

Agreed, blue.

The whole time I was wrestling with the lock I was thinking of the humiliation of having to post the question "Does anyone have any advice for getting a broken key out of a fuel cap?"

Did anyone try PRESSING on the cap itself while TURNING the key?(to open).

My cap won't come up unless I do. Been that way since new. The graphite lube seems to have worked. 1 year later and still moving freely and no other problems with no additional lube applications.

Hmmm... I checked mine because I never think about it.

To open, I put the key in it, turn the key, it pops open.

To close, I push it closed with my finger until it clicks and the key turns a little "on its own", then turn the key rest of the way and remove.

No problems. Never lubricated it.

WD 40

WD40 will help clean any junk out of the lock mechanism if you blow enough of it in, but don't think its a lubricant. It isn't.

I would never use WD on a lock. It has worked on rusty padlocks in the past but those seem to end up in the trash eventually. A dry lub like graphite seems safest IMHO.

I guess I gave up on mine after about year 4. Replaced it with a keyless quarter turn. Saves weight looks cool.

If anyone needs a cap with a key, let me know. I replaced mine with a screw-in cap before it started giving me any grief. It's so convenient, I should have done it the first day I brought the bike home.

It's so convenient, I should have done it the first day I brought the bike home.

Mine stuck. Never stuck again... Until... Someone did not follow the cap's idiosyncrasy. My trick was to press down on the cap before turning the key. Also, I let the bike sit for months. And like you said, I wasn't going to be stuck on the road with that dependable a locking device. So I bought a replacement cap for the used tank I keep rotating on the 14's. Kawi needs to work on that puppy.

This might not be a great deal of assistance until I update my photos but thought I would post for future.

Fuel Tank Cap Mechanism Removal and Replacement

Kawi needs to work on that puppy.

Break Free twice a year in all lock cylinders.

Too late to try Break Free for me. Almost broke my key off on the last try. Had to have a new one made.