Can anybody help me with replacing the front sprocket on a 07 zx14, do I have anything to worry about when removing the sprocket cover???? Please help any information would be helpful.

Is it easy to do I do???

Hey Racer...easy.1)Pull your belly fairing.CAUTION:if you're doing this job on the sidestand.....BE VERY CAREFUL removing the belly fairing.You will MOST LIKELY have to get either a rear stand,or have someone hold your bike up off the sidestand,raise sidestand,remove fairing,lower sidestand.You may get lucky IDK removing it with the stand down,but that small piece that goes back behind the kickstand...that WILL SNAP OFF if you try to FORCE the fairing past the kickstand(by bending that piece there trying to get it to move past the stand).I know...I broke one.If you raise the kickstand momentarily,the fairing will slide right out.(unless someone here knows a way to get it out without raising the stand)

2)You can leave the slave cylinder attached to the cover...EXCEPT for the one bolt just below the clutch slave hose(either that one or the one straight across from it?You'll figure it out)...ONE OF THOSE THREE BOLTS go into the case.Gotta pull that one out with your cover bolts.KEEP THEM IN SEQUENCE...they're different lengths,so mark em or something.Do NOT overtighten when installing.Tape the cover with slave out and away from the work area.Put a dab of grease on the tip of the shift rod shaft(the one going into the clutch) when reinstalling the cover,and go STRAIGHT IN with it,do not get that piston cocked on that shaft in there.Straight in.Then tighten in a criss-cross pattern,with a final circular tightening.Pump your clutch lever till she's set again.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 10/13/2010 @ 1:14 AM *

Blue, a question for you... I have to replace my front sprocket and will go back to the std as it is sooo much quieter with the rubber insert however I read somewhere that the best bet is to pull the clutch lever in before removing the cover and keep it taped/roped to the bar and then try removing the bolt(s) that hold the slave cylinder in place. Is this the proper thing to do? Supposedly it was to prevent leakage but not having done this before, I'm flying blind as to what/how this action will prevent leakage. Any ideas? Cheers.

Apologies to the OP for jumping in without contributing to the answer. As I understand it, this is something that should be attempted if you have the tools and a modicum of mechanical sympathy. I'm trying to remove my sprocket cover at the moment but not quite sure about whether to just remove the slave bolt(s) and not touch the lever or whether to pull the lever in and hold it while removing the slave bolt(s). I really have no idea of why that lever needs to be held in, so if anybody knows and could let us all know at the same time, the advice would be appreciated. Cheers.

You know...I did it BOTH ways.No need to do anything with the lever I found out.You can leave the slave connected to the cover.Only one of those lower bolts runs through the cover and slave.That one's gotta come out(along with the other ones around the cover circumference).HUB says use an air gun.That's cool.That'll definitely get er done.I don't have a compressor...so I bought a big azz KOBALT impact at Lowes.Electrical.Baby does the job big time.The manual says to tape the lever back.I did it that way before.IDK if it actually helped anything or stopped something from happening.Long as you don't leave that slave piston sitting for too long,it should be fine.The piston will move away from the housing and you will get some fluid leakage IF you just leave it not having that clutch pushrod holding it in.But it won't happen immediately.Just keep an eye on that slave piston...if it looks like she's coming out,just push er back in some.That's what I did.It worked okay for me.Can't speak for anyone else here.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 1/1/2011 @ 1:25 PM *

Never removed my sprocket yet but will be soon. I recall Someone (Steven, I think it was--on the old forum) recommended using a C-clamp to keep the removed clutch slave compressed.

Thanks guys. This is what I did... I removed all the outside bolts around the cover, then removed the top bolt of the slave cylinder (right next to the banjo coupling) and that happened to be the correct bolt to release the cover entirely. Lucky guess. The other two bolts, I just left in place and the whole cover came off. The lever was left alone and I didn't notice any movement at all on the end of the piston all the time I had it off.

In the end I left the 16t sprocket on there as it looked real good. I was expecting some bending of the teeth but it looked excellent so I just left it alone. There was however a huge accumulation of crud inside which I washed out with kero. Re-assembled everything in reverse order making sure the cover went on straight and tightened the bolts, making sure that nothing was overtightened. I did grease the end of the clutch rod with LM grease. I then operated the clutch a few times and it felt normal. I haven't started the bike yet as I have other things to do but even though there was a little bit of drag while holding the clutch lever in and spinning the rear wheel, first gear, it felt normal.

I'm going to try a new thread with a question about the Soupy's adjustable lowering links.

OMG...not SOUPY'S! J/K....I put those on mine....for a bit.In all ease of operation type thinking...you'd be better off getting the muzzy's or something like that...something with the holes already drilled IMO.That way...you don't need to measure anything...it can be iffy with those adjustable links.And those Soupy's links aint that easy to install either.My opinion....No to Soupy's

* Last updated by: blue07 on 1/2/2011 @ 4:08 PM *