Glad that is working out for you. If it works, it works but I would have a look at the Target AFR tables and compare. If they are close to being the same your pretty much comparing apples to apples with the fueling, too. Whatever! if the bike runs smoother, you probably got it about where it should be. I'd still want to see an AFR gauge to be sure I'm not running lean. Since you're bold enough to make your own adjustments, you could use the gauge to reaffirm your intuition.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/3/2017 @ 11:18 PM *

Thanks man :) So I'd need that gauge to do the comparison you're talking about then?

You can just compare the adjustments in the Fuel tables which is what you have done so far but you don't know what air/fuel ratios they were meant to achieve. Presumably, both maps were designed to achieve a safe AFR at your altitude so if you make an adjustment within those parameters, you should be ok. If you have an AFR gauge on the bike, you can see what the AFR is. You could use that to compare map A to map B and see where what AFR your map was creating. If you had any lean spots, you'd see it. The problem of tuning by intuition is that you can't see any lean spots and the bike might run really great lean. With an AFR gauge, you would see longer lean spots if you had them. In the higher rpm, a lean spot might last less than a second so you might not see that even with an AFR gauge. High rpm is where lean can be devastating. I seem to have a couple slightly lean spots at high rpm that are a tenth of a second. I'd never see that on my AFR gauge. I only see it in a data log. Data logging would be the next step to perfecting AFR but a gauge would be fine for now. The first step would have been to use an O2 sensor and Autotuner but you seem to have survived this long without that. You are probably pretty safe mixing and matching map adjustments if you trust the tuner but nobody knows for sure unless they see the AFR the map is producing.

The reason (in my opinion) I've been safe thus far is because I'm working within upper and lower control limits (DynoJet's stock map on the rich side and their full-system Muzzy map on the lean side). Though I did in fact try to go a little leaner than the muzzy map to see if it would help, it was only for a few miles and only within the 1000-3000 rpm range at 2% and 5% TP.

What turns out to be the 'sweet spot' for this bike and this area is right in the middle. I just returned from an hour long cruise and it's the smoothest it's been yet. Even in light stop/go traffic with the engine well warmed, the only place it shows is around the 1750 rpm mark. I'm going to fatten that area by another 2% and call it 'good'. :)

As a quality assurance manager for a contract manufacturer, I love this stuff and I love precision. Having money for the gauges and that sort of thing would be fun but really, I just wanna ride. It's why I bought this one because after 10 years of constant tinkering with the Vmax, as fun as it is for me to find problems and fix them, I'm tired of wrenching :D

All the best-

Devin

Just my humble opinion: Because you are testing in a no-load condition (and no ram air that really increases the air in the mixture) you dont really know what going on under actual driving conditions. Even if you get a wide-band AFR monitor, unless you go through the "Rook Tuning Method" with your laptop Velcro'd to the gas tank you dont really know the real world conditions.

Dyno test time....

I'm doing it the 'long way'. Make an adjustment, take it out on the road. Come back, make another one, back out on the road.

The fact is the full Muzzy system map is really good; I just adjusted the 1000-3000 rpm range for only the 2% and 5% throttle positions. I just needed the bottom end smoother and now I have it

I'm doing it the 'long way'. Make an adjustment, take it out on the road. Come back, make another one, back out on the road.

Yeah that would be much nicer for sure :)