I didn't see a tutorial on how to remove that dead secondary shaft in the throttle bodies. Removing the plates is good, but the shaft is not as the ECU expects the servo to actuate the throttle position sensor.....a nice constant flashing error display will be the result. This mod removes the shaft, plugs the holes, and restores ECU operation by fitting the TPS directly to the servo with a modified shaft.

That's it. And it works! The only disadvantage is lack of a computer assisted high idle for cold weather starts.

I took pictures along the way:

This is after I removed the rod and plugged the holes with epoxy. You'll have to drop the engine to get fair access to the bodies, unbolt the two sections and slide the rod out. Discard the misc. hardware.

Here's how I checked to see what the ECU was looking for. Preloading the TPS on the servo shaft was all it needed. Fine, now let's see how to rig this up...

Here's what we have to work with. We will need to shorten the shaft...

A dremel tool works nicely to shorten and create a new flat keyway...

The shaft and pin slides neatly into the servo....

See how the TPS fits neatly into the servo? How convenient!

Ready for assembly...

sides of the shaft can be epoxied so it won't fall out of the servo

Finished installation. Be sure to test and retest the preloaded position before applying epoxy.

Testing.

Thanks for your contribution, dattaway. I've always wonder about removing that shaft... -bg

Great info Datta.

Is there any real advantage to removing the shaft?

No shaft, no obstruction whatsoever. Nice how-too dattaway.

So if you don't remove the shaft, there's no FI error...correct?

Aaha! Maybe that's why I get the error display and my bike will turn over but won't start? I thought it was something to do with the sidestand.
Hub, do you press the display and mode buttons and then it goes away?

Hi guys, Im in need of help here. I removed my flies yesterday but had problems with one screw. After rounding it off i decided to drill the head off. Said and done the head is off and the plate gone. But now im scared that the last end of the screw one day will unscrew itself and fall into the engine. So i thought i'd remove the shaft and remove the last piece but i cant get it out. It seems stuck even though i released the ends of it. Any other screws to relive ? Please help fast. Regards

Hub too late. I drilled the rod to get the last piece out, the hole is about as big as it was in the first place. What could be the problem with that ? I Tried assembling it togheter and im getting a weird noice and an error. When i turn the key, the normal sound wich you hear (i imagine its the fuel injection) keeps going alot longer and sound more... how can i say, like, something is stuck or something. Its like something is trying to reach its place but cant, and i get FI error. I will not start the bike in this condition. Any suggestions or thoughts ? Im really tired with this now, one screw could fuck up so much... :/

Peace

Does anyone have a good picture of this? I'm about to take my secondary shaft out due to the previous owner messing it up..

No. I think you are asking for trouble. Gonna have a permanenet code. This thing was removed by hack sawing a part off. More or less no turning back once you do it.

Pulling the flies. the shaft will still turn acording to input from ECU. Take the shaft out and now the ECU senses a DFI problem. Code for ever until you get a shaft back in.

Why pull the shaft if you don't have to? It makes absolutely no difference in airflow as far as any flow bench could read.

^^^Case closed. NOT a way I would choose to drop 2 oz of weight. You would also need too block the holes left in the T bodies that would be sucking unfiltered air from the engine compartment. If the shaft is bent, I'd say have at her. Otherwise, just get a new T-bodies assy and bolt in.

(do your valve clearance /adjust while you have the Tbodies off.)

Why pull the shaft if you don't have to? It makes absolutely no difference in airflow as far as any flow bench could read.

Just curious - do you have any of the airflow results?

^^^Case closed. NOT a way I would choose to drop 2 oz of weight. You would also need too block the holes left in the T bodies that would be sucking unfiltered air from the engine compartment. If the shaft is bent, I'd say have at her. Otherwise, just get a new T-bodies assy and bolt in.
(do your valve clearance /adjust while you have the Tbodies off.)

There are two screws stuck in there. On top of that there are some drilled portions of the shaft. Also, that mark on the right throttle body is deep enough to feel. She was running fine when over 5k rpms, but ran like shit under that. Looking to eliminate anything that could be causing it. I highly doubt any JB Weld I put in those holes will fall into the combustion chamber, especially if I'm generous with the amount I use on the outside portions of the throttle bodies. Just my thoughts.. ideas? I'm trying to understand the procedure for removing the shaft, but I don't quite understand what I'm doing with the servo. Pictures would help!

Either way, if you guys insist that the shaft is fine, I'll make due. Should I drill out the screws? Or put some JB Weld in the other holes? I'd be willing to bet that it wouldn't come lose if I stuff it into the other holes, just not sure if those two screws are really changing much with the air flow.

A higher resolution photo can be found here...

* Last updated by: slhawkins on 7/17/2011 @ 4:35 PM *

slhawkins asked:

Just curious - do you have any of the airflow results

Not for the ZX14 throttlebodies, but I've flowbenched the heads and intakes on 600+ hp car engines and such enough to know that little shaft isn't worth fooling with.

If you were looking for the last 1/4 horsepower to set the world record or something, I'd say take them out, plug the holes they left, and get your ECU flashed to ignore the fact they aren't there anymore.

Otherwise, why bother?

* Last updated by: privateer on 7/19/2011 @ 6:30 PM *

Otherwise, why bother?

As the pictures indicate, that's all I'm worried about.

Roger that, and I agree with you, I'd worry too.

Roger that, and I agree with you, I'd worry too.

Any ideas?

New throttlebody assembly.

Or find the instructions about how to remove the shafts without throwing codes, and have someone close the holes in the stacks left by removing the shafts.

Either way, you've got them off the engine already.

And learn a lesson about trying to wrench on something without knowing what the gotchas are. Sorry, but just saying....

If its a 2008+ there is no good reason to remove the secondaries, she runs great with them in.

If its earlier model, good reason to remove secondaries, and so go back to the first sentence. Heh.

* Last updated by: privateer on 7/20/2011 @ 6:48 AM *

And learn a lesson about trying to wrench on something without knowing what the gotchas are. Sorry, but just saying....

What do you mean by that? You'll notice on my first post about this I said that the previous owner messed it up.

New throttlebody assembly.
Or find the instructions about how to remove the shafts without throwing codes, and have someone close the holes in the stacks left by removing the shafts.

While we're looking at the first post, we could read the first sentence.

Does anyone have a good picture of this?

So you're telling me I'm back to square one - asking if anyone else has any photo's on this. You didn't have to try your hand at insulting me, you could have pointed me in the right direction (Which you started to) or say not reply at all. Thanks for trying.

What do you mean by that? You'll notice on my first post about this I said that the previous owner messed it up.

My mistake, I misread and you are correct. Sorry.

Hub, where did you place the final assembly? What did you use to connect both of them? That mounting plate it a great idea! Thanks.

soy de Argentina, necesitaría ver las fotos del procedimiento de arriba (How to remove flies completely without the FI ERROR (howto pics), no las puedo ver, gracias

If you move the shaft at any time while removing those screws,OR pulling the plates free...the ECU will attempt to 'reset' the shaft at startup...if it can't,it will code.But it should be able to...gonna sound possibly like a grinding noise at first...then it should work fine.You will have to cycle the ignition again however to remove any code once it's okay.It will make this noise at key ON...as it sweeps the dials and all.Best thing is to NOT move that shaft...go slow and use firm pressure and all...but keep the shaft from 'flipping' from slipping with the driver.All it takes is one 90 degree turn of that shaft...it's gonna read an error on restart.

Mine(my 07) made the grinding sound,but 'reset' quickly enough to NOT throw an error code.And yes...I did make the mistake of turning that shaft.On a later fly pull,on my 2013...I did not move that shaft...and she fired right up without coding...OR resetting by the ECU.It doesn't know if the plates are there or not...it's the shaft position that triggers it.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 8/23/2013 @ 4:24 PM *