Stick Coils Removal

Before you set out to remove the stick coils, you might want to check out this quick vid for a few extra tips.
How To CLean Spark Plug Wells

Stick coils are removed to inspect or change spark plugs or to test the stick coils with a digital meter.

Before removing the stick coils, blow the top of the engine off thoroughly with compressed air to eliminate any loose debris that may have collected near the stick coils.

Take care to not allow debris to fall into the stick coil holes. It’s a good idea to plug the stick coil holes with something clean if the stick coils are to be removed for an extended period of time. If any debris falls into the stick coil holes, blow it out immediately. Do not remove spark plugs until any foreign objects have been removed from the stick coil holes.

The stick coils are plastic. Do not pry on the stick coils with hard instruments to remove them.

Do First
Remove Foremans, Lowers and Side Panels

Remove the stick coil lead connectors (see step 2 of STICK COIL SUBHARNESS REMOVAL).

Tools
compressed air
clean rag
High temperature grease

Removal

1. Loosen the stick coil by twisting it back and forth in the hole while you lift. Pull stick
coil up out of spark plug hole. DO NOT PRY UNDER THE STICK COIL LEAD CONNECTOR.

2. Be careful to brush away debris that may have stuck around the top of the hole as you pull the stick coil up. DO NOT LET ANY SOLID MATTER DROP DOWN INTO THE SPARK PLUG WELL! If it does, the only way I can see to solve that dilemma is to blow the well out with compressed air or better, place a very small vacuum hose down the well (with spark plug IN) after carefully covering all other engine openings.


I also have greased the stick coil as I pull it to trap the small gravel chunks that collect around the edge.

3. Remove the stick coil from the hole. Plug the stick coil hole with a clean rag and remove the remaining stick coils in the same way.

The stick coil is about 5 inches long and it may seem as though there is not enough clearance to pull it all the way up. The bottom quarter of the stick coil is flexible and allows for some bending as the stick coil is removed from the hole.

THere is a good spark plug removal tutorial with pics on this thread.
SPARK PLUGSREMOVAL

Installation

4. Apply a thin film of high temperature grease to the ribs at the top of the stick coil. Bend the
tip to insert the stick coil through the hole in the head cover. Twist and Press the stick coil down onto the spark plug inside.

5. Turn the stick coils [A] so that their connectors face the directions indicated by the line [B] on the head cover. Reconnect the stick coils lead connectors by pressing the two halves of the leads together until you feel the catch lock.

Install Fairings

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/12/2018 @ 10:24 AM *

What type of hi temp grease do you use for the stick coils? Thanks.

I got rid of the pollution plates and hoses a couple days ago.Was a real pain in the butt but there is alot of room now.I got most of my bodywork off so I'm going to put my speedohealer back on.I know that when it's time for plugs I can see what I'm doing.
Craig

What type of hi temp grease do you use for the stick coils? Thanks.

Nothing special. I just picked up a generic bucket of axle grease at a Advance Auto a few years back. I use it for a variety of things on the 14. I even have used it as a chain lube in the cold weather...pretty messsy though. I think the "high temp aspect is all that matters....so you don't have some grease that just melts away.

Great write up and photos Rook. When it comes to grease I try to stay away from petroleum greases around plastic and rubber. Silicone grease works well and is used in a lot of ignition applications. Lordco & Napa, as well as many other automotive supply stores, sell it in small packets. The packets are about the size of a tea bag and cost around $1

Spyglass

Rook, what significance does pointing the stick coil connector have? 6. Turn the stick coils [A] so that their connectors face the directions indicated by the line [B] on the head cover.

I changed the plugs on my 14 about 2 months ago ~ 4000 miles have passed. It took me about 8 hours and most of it was spent extracting the stick coils. After using compressed air to remove any foreign material from the top, I used aerosol silicone and the supplied straw injected around the perimeter to overcome the grip 20,000 miles had on these stick coils.

I could not see the line B in the head cover, so I put them back symmetrically. Damn this bike ran so much smoother and responsive. The old plugs did not look bad, but what a difference.

Tonight the 14 is getting a new chain set. 18/42 for mileage. I ride the bike to work everday there is no rain. That is about 700 miles/week.

[b][quote]Rook, what significance does pointing the stick coil connector have? 6. Turn the stick coils [A] so that their connectors face the directions indicated by the line [B] on the head cover.[/quote][/b]

If you cannot see the lines, you prolly can feel them, they are raised about a mm. I imagine Kaw is telling us to do that so that so that the wires will rout so as to not obstruct the head cover bolts which are shown in the diagram above in step 6. But that is not a big deal either because when someone needs to remove the head cover someday, they will just grab aholt of the stick coil and twist it out of the way so they can get their wrench on there.

I have all the junk removed on the top of the head cover. Quick shifter wiring is hooked inline between the stick coils and the spark plug wire connectors. This gives me a little extra wire length to play with. I have my spark plug wire pulled up and out of the way, zip tied to the underside of the air box. No problems with this on my bike.

I used aerosol silicone and the supplied straw injected around the perimeter to overcome the grip 20,000 miles had on these stick coils.

The stick coils can get stuck from the vacuum caused by the rubber seal. Mine were not too bad. I was able to get them to come out with a twist and pull motion.

just sayin' careful with that spray silicone. I use it a lot but for really tight stuff I do not use it anymore. I have Liquid Wrench silicone spray. Prolly try a different brand next time.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/18/2013 @ 9:53 PM *

Hi Book I am having the same problem now with my 2012 zx-14r bike it has all the pollution pipes running under the air box what a mess. How the hell do you get your hand in there. and I have been told not to touch the throttle body sensors other wise I am screwed again for a tune up.

I have been told not to touch the throttle body sensors other wise I am screwed again for a tune up.

Fallacy. See the gray connector and how it's at an angle? That is more do not move that angle, but to disconnect those from the sensors? No, you do not have to retune the bike. It's like pulling the spark stick off the plug. Do you retune the bike? No. If you take those 3 connectors and pull them apart? No, there is no retuning just to get the hoses off and out of the way, or move the connectors off the intake sensors under there too. Go for it. Disconnect, not unscrew sensors.

Ok thank's Hub for the info. I think my mechanic was putting the wind up me or yes trying to keep me from touching the sensors that is fine, He said also that I can pull the pollution control unit with the pipes the come from the throttle bodies out of the bike just enough while still connected to get my hands in there. I am still trying to find somewhere in the states to get the latest ignition coils that are on the markets the part number 21171-0005 apparently these have been upgraded from the old version so I have been told any ideas there.

YW, Keith, and that's a negative on the updated number. New to me? 21171 looks like a spark stick number but the net part does not show the 0005 to see what year that came off of?

I just got that off the OME parts of a website hear in Oz and its the same on some of the one that i was looking at in the states to.
In the diagram the Coil Assembly ignition

http://www.mototech.com.au/uploaded/Kawasaki/2012/Ninja%20ZX14R%20ABS//Ignition%20System.gif

Also send the like to the page
http://www.mototech.com.au/oem-parts.php?brandId=1&year=2012&modelTypeId=137&modelId=945§ionId=47693§ionType=NONE

try these one Hub.

2007 = 0005
2012 = 0005

No change to either part number. Again, wrong info if I find zip between generations. Your mechanic is sniffing too many oil changes. Better he stick with the easy stuff.

Got the parts the other day and change the coils with no problem at all just how you guys explained it. Just use a pry lever 18" which made it easy to lift up.

* Last updated by: keith001 on 1/12/2014 @ 2:00 PM *

i have heard of the stick coils cracking from prying.

Yes i know Book put they came out for me ok. just a question can you do a self- Diagnosis on your bike with out the ECU hook up to the computer.

IDK the answer to that one, for sure keith.

With the 14, if there is an AFR or electrical problem detected by a sensor in the bike, the code should flash on the instrument multifunc meter digital display. The next step is to get a list of error codes so you can pinpoint where the code is originating from. That's about all I know about diagnostics. Error codes I have seen had to do with dropping the bike over, and battery malfunction. Those cleared themselves after the bike was restored to normal operating conditions. Had the speedo and the top speed limiter go berzerk on me for a short time. No code there. The problem cleared itself after I keyed off and keyed back on.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/24/2014 @ 1:11 PM *

Yes...be CAREFUL with the prying deal.I've done that a few times also..long handled screwdriver gently placed for lift while turning.You do need to be cautious though...no big pushing upwards with that prybar/driver.Gentle upward pressure.Once you remove those,the 'next' time with grease on there should be MUCH easier.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 1/24/2014 @ 1:51 PM *

Also a note about using silicone lube on the stick coils. It's good for rubber, sure. Petroleum may cause rubber to soften. BUT silicone is supposed to make rubber swell slightly. That is why they use it to install orings--so they seal better. JMHO but you don't need the stick coils to seal better. I've used high temp petrol grease and had no ill effects. Go ahead and use dialectric if you want, its designed for rubber but it's silicone. You might have a hard time getting the stick coils out next time though.

Just learned that in my research on silicone greases. Molykote is a great one but I think i'll be using it for stuff that has rubber parts that do not fit tightly. The label says it causes slight swelling of rubber and that's great for stuff that is supposed to create a hermetic seal. Maybe not so much if the part fits tight to begin with.

done again

Would you recommend an after market stick coil,, for better performance,, Or the OEM ?

Unless you've had an issue, no reason to change coils. If you're running a high-compression setup or a blower, you may have call to get some hotter coils to keep the spark from blowing out.

I have been told aftermarket stick coils will not make any dif. Maybe for boost as Danno mentioned.

Recently i had the coils out to change plugs and sync TB's.. Measuring ohms and voltage at coils, ONE was just at minimum Ohmage.. Thinking of replacing next winter..
Fairly stock
Full Yosh Ex
PC-5.
Iridium tip plugs,, electrode mostly gone after 22,xxx miles on plugs
During this time, using PC-V Maps
Now,, just had ECU Flash cant ride yet

* Last updated by: metalmechanic on 1/21/2018 @ 12:00 PM *

The long needle nose, curved piers work good for removing, As long as you have lubed them before installing, and give them a twist before trying to pry, leverage with pliers