Hi
I just bought a ZZR 1400 in Germany, and consider getting an original exhaust system, to replace the Cobra 4-1.
I heard that some bikes have catalytic converters, others not, and I'm trying to figure out which exhaust parts to buy. That would depend on exactly the bike that I have, and that's what I'm unsure of. According to the german
"Zulassungsbescheinigung part II", it's a ZXT40A model, variant B, version 1A. (It also has ABS)
It was first registered on the 17th of July, 2007.
The VIN is: JKBZXT40ABA017121. One or more webpages suggested that the VIN belongs to a bike from 2011, which confuses me somewhat, since the bike seems to have been registered in 2007, 4 years prior..

(The 10th digit in the VIN code is the letter "B", which suggests 2011, according to https://www.edmunds.com/how-to/how-to-quickly-decode-your-vin.html )

I don't know if it should have one or more catalytic converters or not, or none at all. Anyone that knows if it is likely to mean a lot to the engine? Any suggestions, or advice?
Thanks in advance.

* Last updated by: zzr1400Norway on 1/4/2022 @ 2:11 PM *

2006 through 2011 ZX-14s were all gen1. You should be able to use any stock exhaust from a 2006 through 2011. The catalytic converter is in the collector just before splitting off to the two midpipes that go to the mufflers.

Thanks for the info. From parts sheets it seems like bikes with a catalytic converter have some connection
from the manifold (containing the catalytic conv.), which seems to be related to the fuel injection.

If the engine is set up to match the Cobra 4-1 exhaust system, which I have reasons to believe, I guess
just a mechanical replacement of the Cobra exhaust for another, original one, might be suboptimal.

It would be nice if I could swap the Cobra exhaust for an original manifold and mufflers of any type, with or without a catalytic converter, not having to connect to the fuel injection.

An exhaust system containing a catalytic converter might be likely to restrict the exhaust flow, I guess. Anyway,
I don't know if it needs to be taken into concern..

The reason for these questions is that I consider taking the bike to Norway after my stay in Germany, where
it might be necessary to mount an original exhaust system to be able to register the bike on norwegian registration plates.

Looks like Edmunds needs to ask about that 2007 backdating? Let's talk about euro/west emissions.

Euro:
Say they have an 02 for FI. The 02 is in between the head and the cat. So that says it reads what came out of the head. Thus, the 02 is adjusting so minute a change aiming for the better emission headed to the cat, out the pipe, etc.

Now say back in '07, there was just the cat and no 02. Ready? Any pipe will do.
Now say it did have an 02 for your bike. So there is going to either be a flat stamping on the OEM header, or there is an 02 sensor sticking out at that stamped angle; and is right under the right side front corner of oil pan area. Ready? Any pipe will do... reinstall the 02.

Moving to new emission laws:
Have the OEM on before entering. Sharp eyes might see it's not stock, you just had to profile with the banned goods.

Recap as follows:
No 02 ~ Run any pipe you want, even without a flash or piggy needed. Of course these additions enhance the change even more, but that's $$$up to you.
W/02 ~ You do not want to run a coded bike so as to not run at FULL POWER, rather than run with a code having less HP is defeating the pipe change.

Though w/02, the book abstract says it just shuts down the 02 input. Says nothing about the change of map to a more limp mode. Only a dyno or an AFR meter on the bike shows that difference.

https://www.edmunds.com/how-to/how-to-quickly-decode-your-vin.html

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/5/2022 @ 10:20 AM *

Thanks for the info. From parts sheets it seems like bikes with a catalytic converter have some connection
from the manifold (containing the catalytic conv.), which seems to be related to the fuel injection.
If the engine is set up to match the Cobra 4-1 exhaust system, which I have reasons to believe, I guess
just a mechanical replacement of the Cobra exhaust for another, original one, might be suboptimal.

I'e never heard of an engine being set up for an exhaust. Adjusting the fueling for an exhaust is what's normally done through a flash or a fuel module. Yes, if the fueling is adjusted for the aftermarket exhaust, the fueling might not be the best with a stock exhaust. That would be easy to fix though. Get it dyno tuned. The stock fueling is not even the best for a stock exhaust so a dyno tune can only help no mater what exhaust you have. I've done AFR tuning and my honest assessment is that it makes no real difference I can feel except a couple spots at low rpm. I guess if the AFR has been fiddled with, you'd be wise to check the AFR if you're changing exhausts.

Might be the PAIR? Passing air in route is out the exhaust port. That means the unspent gas is reignited with fresh air sent via the PAIR system... if manifold means like a car's exhaust manifold?

That's a header pipe in bike nomenclature. It goes; exhaust headers are the first set of pipes out of the cylinder head. The middle part is where all 4 pipes run into a 'collector.' The pipe out to muffler is the next section, then the muffler itself. Or, say the pipe and muffler are one; so then you are down to 3 parts of the exhaust system.

That's where you have a few choices is the PAIR system.
1. You can let it ride and no harm no foul.
2. You can just disconnect the sensor that has the two hoses in the middle of the top cam cover. This throws a code, but who cares.
3. You can remove everything and buy some cap off aftermarket part to close the top cam cover inlets.
4. You can keep the OE top cam cover L pipe in place and find a rubber plug and cover over the hose diameter nipple end. Cork it with a zip-tie.

Back to... leave it alone until inspection. Then decide. The quick and dirty is to run the pipe and feel it out. Then reach in there, disconnect the sensor, ride it again and that's the difference seat of the pants, take your pick.

Say the air to fuel ratio (AFR) w/PAIR is 16.5a. Once that goes thru the cat, that's even more spent and out the pipe is more plain old oxygen [ideal AFR] we can breath. But there are parts of other gases not breathable, etc.

So if no PAIR, the real AFR number is about 14.1a. That's a number some NASCAR tuner used for his race engines.
Therefore, the lower the AFR number, the richer the fuel in ratio. And that is the PRE number all day long. That says rich on the overlap [reversion], not sucking back in 16a say.

... for every action, there is an opposite and equal pulse me back and forth, some spent, some unspent, some money not spent on the richer [more for performance] tune up.

And I do not recall [the name but] someone asked if it was OK to just run the header only. I said go ahead. Maybe he came back months later and said it was just too loud. Not one word of; HUB you shit-0-piece of shit my bike is in. It's all burnt to a crisp... FU turtle. Just it being too neighborly noisy was all he wrote.

Signed,
So how did that PRE work out for you?

By doing that, you have a little unspent back into the cylinder, and this will richen up the bike a little this way. Have to remember what I call the 'PRE'... which means, all sensor input has been 'predetermined' and is clueless to the exhaust reversion as who cares... Pre calls the ball and you don't need to mess with this so as to add piggy/flash/etc.

It's not more air going in the engine if say we remove the air cleaner. The vac sensor still reads said vacuum for said condition, as if it will hurt the engine, no. The air speed just stepped up the speed of the same air being sucked in, not more air, no. Just a faster event is how you have to think of the air, the pre being the stock setting; as if you changed the vac signal, no.

Make sense?