I think I owe the technician a lot more credit than what I originally gave him
I would not be so quick with that. Story sounds good but I'm Not buying it. Blue smoke filling your garage would have been your first sign. A single drop or two would have been a full warning that something is wrong. In order for oil to fill the hoses, fill the sloping Airbox, then spill over stacks ,,,, Well, that's allot of oil? It didn't happen. you would know.
We could go on for hours explaining this one but no need. Hydraulic lock equals damage. If I can find a picture of a outboard motor I dropped off the back of a boat at wide open throttle I can show you what Hydraulic Lock can do.
I did however ask him to have a look at the stutter after he changed the plugs.
Ask for the old plugs. Would love to see a pic of those.
I find two guys revving piss out of their bike standing still.
Yikes, I must ask, what RPM did you rev your bikes up to ? Remember low RPM stutter is the goal here. No need to be revving the piss out of it. This is why I'm thinking maybe I should take a step back here. I could miss something and fuck you guys up. Especially if your redlining your bikes in Neutral. I hope that's not the case.
Low RPM idle test is a great indicator in showing us how much fuel needs to be pulled at 6000 feet of elevation to give you a 13.5 AFR. This New fuel % number can be carried over into your 2% row directly where the fuel tracer jumps. Do you understand ? If so we can move forward.
After we arrive at the exact AFR, next step is to go into your AFR table and turn those Area's of concern off.
The Low RPM 2% and 5% rows are Notoriously Hard to tune. After you have removed the area of concern you no longer have to worry about this bike running Rich in the area of stutter.
Cycling your wrist back and forth in town riding will make a mess of your maps if AFR table is left turned on in this low rpm area.
What we are trying to eliminate is your O2 sensor seeing Rich then lean, Rich then lean. Set up this way keeps Auto Tune from going into a slamming effect.
It's possible here in lies our stutter Area. Make sense ??? We need to get this out of the way before we can go into tuning the bike to your Exact AFR that is built into the map I sent you.
In short we are making your AFR Exactly 13.5 where the stutter occurs. After fueling is for sure out of the way we can Go ahead and say "yes sound is normal" .
I am now realising how hard all this is to explain over the Net. I'm also starting to wonder if I'm making any sense at all.
This may also explain why Dyno Jet does not provide much information on how to use Auto Tune. All the instructions you get from them is "ride the bike" UGH !
If you would still like to continue let me know. If not I completely understand why. Explaining all this hurts the head.